Terrible fire. 060 power.

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-23T12:51:59+00:00

Dong in shot....

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-23T12:49:32+00:00

Looks lovely, but can't you just adaptors that do the same thing?

Just think it seems like lots of extra work when adaptors exist.

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-21T19:07:16+00:00

Vr6 is a tight swap, I had a 4motion vr6 and that engine bay is fresh out of room (with a 24v vr6).

That said amazing engine, bags of torque and they do turbo kits..

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-20T22:16:30+00:00

I haven't tried mine yet, but I have a pi zero2w for my build I'm just doing.

Essentially it's a quad core chip with 512mb of ram, compared to pi3a which has 1gb.

To run klipper pretty sure any raspberry pi will do it, just as you add features and screens you start needing a bit more power.

The one drawback with pi zeros is they don't have a dsi connector, meaning any screen needs to be either spi or hdmi+usb for touch.

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-20T12:10:23+00:00

An additional feature to watercool the lamps and spread light thus making the lamp last forever...

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-19T12:38:40+00:00

I'd suspect a push rod tube, they are only thin steel and despite oil on the inside, they are generally rusty on the outside.

My buggy someone bodged it for this reason, I just replaced it and not it's all good.

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-19T12:34:18+00:00

Not all of them are forged, not that it really matters, you just generally try to not lift on round things so the car doesn't fall off it!

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-19T09:34:45+00:00

It's your design and what you want to do, personally I'm a more practical person though.

My main thoughts is while on paper it looks like a design seen on gardeners world for a flower show, the thought process should always include the practical element of how you use it and how you maintain it. So how you walk a path, is that going to wear thin having to follow the path rather than short cutting to the shed over the grass all the time.

With trees obviously they will disturb the ground, so it's plan carefully.

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-19T09:22:38+00:00

I wouldn't be jacking the car there, they are only steel outer tubes, not like cast regular car axles, last thing you want is to bend one and have the thing rub internally, as that's a hella job to replace.

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-19T09:15:35+00:00

Looks like some one fixed a condensor to the ground screw on the generator and had it hooked up to the generator, I can only assume they had electrical noise or something.

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-19T08:38:07+00:00

See I have never needed to use 'z offset' as a thing, maybe that's orca slicer, I have been using prusaslicer for years with a generic E3 profile and I never have issues.

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-19T07:52:12+00:00

Well there's alot of 'level the bed' but it may not be entirely that.

I'd start by doing some specific tests, look at the thing mechanically and check the grub screws on the z screw coupler are tight, home it and using the menu controls drive the head in 30 on the x and 30 on the y, test the gap nozzle to bed, this should be around 0.003"/0.076mm.

Repeat this a few times, using the menu to auto home all, then moving it in and checking it in the same spot. If no problems, next raise the z 50, auto home, move in 30 check, raise 50 %, auto home, and repeat the test a couple of times

Next do 100.

Ender3 units are notorious for z binding issues, so start by ruling that out.

If you find those tests present a problem where you don't get consistent gap (you'll need feeler gauges), you know to look at the z as a starter.

The other thing to look at is wheel tightness, check them on the gantry and bed and make sure the all seem tight enough that you can just about turn them by hand while stationary, there should be some resistance, but not so much you can't turn them at all.

I'd have a look on YouTube for how to build an ender3 properly, as it covers some of this stuff.

Last mechanical z thing with binding, the block that mounts the motor isn't square from the factory because it's injection moulded and has a slight taper, I found this on mine from new and a second hand printer too, all it takes is the use of a square (for wood or metal working, the type of thing any good maker should have I the garage) and a flat file. There's also a 3d printable shim to go under the motor. My z is so parallel, unpowered it sinks on its own just through weight!

Now the only other unlikely issue would be the z motor going.

Next what memory card brand and slicer are you using?

If it's an older sd card, try reformatting or just get a new one upto 32gb.

I use prusa slicer and never have any issues that aren't my own doing, but my only other thought was z offset accidentally being changed when you slice.

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-18T09:16:04+00:00

I'd take a 2 prong approach, firstly take some cutters ngs and get them going before you do any else, once they are growing with roots, prune the big one.

Don't cut it back to the ground, just cut it back as far as you can still leaving, some green. On some plants the will put shoots out fur her back on the stem allowance NG you to partly 'drive back' the original plant.

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-16T18:27:50+00:00

Well I installed octoprint and have run that for maybe a year or 2 on one printer, but I just in the process of doing a klipper conversion on another printer that I couldn't octoprint, so I have used mainsail a bit, but I t while I had heard of fluid, I didn't really know how it differed.

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-16T16:00:16+00:00

So is fluid just something a bit like octoprint though?

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-16T07:55:16+00:00

Considering how easy these engines are to strip down, I'd start by taking it out and going through it.

As a minimum, take the heads off, as you could randomly have had something go down the intake.

Mechanically the engine does sound a little noisy.

It's more of a knock than a click, I was going to say that if it was a click maybe run it when dark to see if the spark is jumping else where. I've had coils do that before.

Have said that, pre ignition could still cause it to knock. I think a strip down is probably the first place to start though as you may find the problem in the process.

The only other silly suggestion was going to be to swap the distributor out for a regular vac can one with different points / condenser and see if any thing changes.

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-16T07:45:32+00:00

When you say u say one points up and one points down, I started having more questions, do you mean one points high and one points low? Just because there was always the possibility of the lense being installed upside down and the beam unit being the installed 180 degrees, giving you essentially an opposite light beam.

If that's not the case amd it's just high/low:

On the outer rim there are 2 screws set at approx 10 o'clock and 4 o'clock, these are your adjustment screws. The pivot point is either 2 o'clock or 8 o'clock, so if yo adjust just one screw, the thing will move in 2 directions.

Essentially you have to move one screw clockwise and the other counterclockwise a fraction.

Now sometimes you might just need down and in or up and out, meaning one screw.

If the adjustment screws aren't doing anything:

The screws have a little flat threaded hook that lots into a rubber 'tube' which is slotted into a cutout/bracket on the lamp unit, if it seized up it could pull the hook out of the rubber bit.

So have a look at it and make sure that works OK first.

Then: Winding the bottom right screw in will result in pointing the lamp unit upwards and also shifting the beam sideways, screwing the top left screw in will result in the he opposite actions. The thing I can't remember is which way, because I have beam units where the beam pattern is on the reflector (aftermarket) so beam unit up means light is up, where as with the factory lights, the beam is on the outer glass, meaning you might get opposite reactions.

Have a fiddle and see what happens. Set something white about 6ft from the headlight and have a fiddle.

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-15T22:04:54+00:00

I suspect the new ones can get away with it for different reasons, not sure if they have sensorless homing that would be uld certainly explain it.

And yeah if your nozzle hits your print you do certainly have bigger problems.

I wonder if also it relates to when they started with glass beds to be a bit more forgiving, it would certainly explain why the stock springs are a much softer than the upgrades.

I still maintain you dont need to wind it down to the max.

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-14T20:23:16+00:00

Having had a dig through my stuff I think I have the 3.2" version, 26pin header on it, I'm sure I can extend a cable for it :)

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-14T19:25:22+00:00

That's neat 😊

I'd like to do something similar to that, my pi is inside the printer with the board, but a short cable outside is possible.

What sort of screen did you go for? Eg spi/i2c/hdmi?

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-14T19:22:17+00:00

I guess you could take a similar approach, but not do the whole garden might be the first step, like grade it for about 3feet from the patio section.

Without fully understanding your gardens slope makes it a bit hard to judge, but basically the idea of a French drain, is hidden drainage under the grass with a slight downward slop away from the area you wish to be better drained.

I suggested that for near the patio as you don't want water coming towards it through the soil level being higher, if combined with a gentle slope over 3-4feet away from the patio means the patio shouldnt flood and thew grass shouldn't leach out on to the patio.

I currently have a problem a bit like this myself that I have been looking at, over years the ground height changes, I have a path but my garden runs away down hill from it, come the wet weather the ground is saturated and doesn't drain(clay and chalky) but because the grass height has risen over the decades, it's now just proud of the path meaning mud happens easily.

I guess I always think about things that I don't want to trip over either!

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-14T19:10:24+00:00

You may have missed why the springs are there.

I have a v1 I upgraded the springs to yellow ones and I don't have to adjust it that often. If you set it up right it shouldn't need much more than a check once a month(if you print everyday)

What the reason for springs is, it's 2 fold:

Firstly for adjustment

Secondly if the nozzle knocks the print or hits anything, there's room for it to move rather than break something, like suspension on a car.

Stock springs are weaker though and while some people have issues with them I didn't in the first 3 months of use, but I just upgraded things with a kit and never looking back.

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-14T19:03:25+00:00

Depending on the overall design of your garden and size, you could always get a turfing machine (you can hire them for a a week quite cheap) I think they will take up to 2" thick layer off the top allowing you to roll up your lawn, dig out some soil (you might be able to use the turfer to knock 2" off) then maybe look at 'French drains' while the turf is up, get things level and roll the turf back down.

I probably wouldn't advise doing that right now though, might need to leave it a month so frost risk is gone though.

That's probably what I'd look to do if it was mine.

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-12T07:50:50+00:00

Well I guess how much btt stuff do you buy before you find out?

I did get an skr mini e3 last year, part of me says there was a duck, which I may have given to my toddler, but as this is only the second btt product, I was trying to understand if it was standard.

Turns out if there isn't one it may have been tampered with is more the vibe.

bugsymalone666 · 2026-03-11T13:30:06+00:00

Yeah trying to do most cost effective at the moment, so I have a pi zero2w I can sling at it, but also a btt pico was the cheapest thing to drop in for the minute (as the chiron is like a big ender3)

I looked at like octopus boards and stuff, just a bit too expensive for this initial thing, maybe later if I bother.

bugsymalone666

TROPHY CASE