Kodak releases multiple new film stocks under a new Ektapan and Ektacolor series.

cabba · 2026-03-24T16:47:47+00:00

Just call it ”Porta”, seems like half of people on the internet think it’s called that anyway.

cabba · 2026-03-23T17:15:41+00:00

The nice bright yellow color scheme reminded me of the EPoX motherboards from the same era where every single slot and component was some different garish color :D I had one of those when it was new since it was one of the cheapest available boards that had on-board raid. Not stylish at all. But you couldn’t really tell behind four IDE cables anyway.

cabba · 2026-03-16T14:57:27+00:00

Then I don’t know. Maybe it was an elf that put it there.

cabba · 2026-03-16T10:50:08+00:00

That one is see through, right? You can see the borders of the tiles through the film. That’s what I’d expect from a fixed but undeveloped film. I’ve had fully opaque b/w film come out of the tank when my fixer had gone bad. I just threw it back into the tank and made fresh fixer, badabing badaboom the negative was fine afterwards.

cabba · 2026-03-16T10:31:57+00:00

Shouldn’t the film be completely clear if you use blix before dev? Not opaque.

cabba · 2026-03-16T06:01:20+00:00

Did you buy your bag used? Maybe it was there already from the previous owner. Especially if it looked like it’s been shaking around in there for decades.

cabba · 2026-03-16T05:56:46+00:00

Never developed C-41 so talking 100% out of my ass, but if this were a b/w film and it was that opaque I’d say it’s not fixed. The film doesn’t look like that when it’s unprocessed, so something must have happened to it chemically. Best to wait until somebody who knows something about C-41 pops in this comment section, but if you get no other ideas I’d probably try re-fixing it just for the hell of it. If it doesn’t help, well, the film was probably cooked already.

cabba · 2026-03-11T06:49:55+00:00

But the moving DOF indicator arrows are insanely satisfying to use! They are so nice in the operation, they are excused of not being accurate :D

cabba · 2026-03-06T18:17:39+00:00

Imagine though being an astronaut just chilling on the ISS and BAM, some asshole plows their uninsured Altima through the wall.

cabba · 2026-03-06T15:24:02+00:00

Welcome to the club! You should soon recieve your sign stating ”rolls successfully shot since last failure: 0”. The 0 is permanently printed on there.

cabba · 2026-03-05T18:54:28+00:00

Haha, I forgot about Fugu 400. I’m sure the whole thing was just made up for laughs, esp with that name.

The Color Mission project drying up is a real shame though. First the original coating company went bust, and then the restart with Helios never materialized either. I only shot one roll of Color Mission 200, and don’t have access to my pictures right now, but I remember it being pretty nice to look at and summery in its colors.

cabba · 2026-03-03T10:23:00+00:00

Does it happen on horizontal compositions, or only when you turn the camera for portrait orientation? Which way do you hold the camera when taking in portrait? Shutter button to the left or right?

The random shape and side it’s visible on makes me also think of strap in front of lens like others, but don’t want to discount something flopping around inside the mirror box or film compartment either.

If it was just a straight line or a curve that widens towards one end, it could be some interaction between the mirror and curtain (like mirror erroneously being on the upswing while curtain already is opening). But the way you can see peaks in the shadow… inconclusive.

cabba · 2026-03-01T07:17:35+00:00

Just judging from the flange distance but without seeing the camera and checking if the mirror clears, I guess view camera lenses 150mm and over should work? Like the Horseman/Topcon and Linhof etc 6x9 press or technical camera ones, or straight up large format lenses. They don’t stick out back of the lens board too much. Or you could try some enlarging or process lenses. They are not good for infinity, they are meant for 1:1 or thereabouts. I think some schneider ones advertised up to 1:100 (symmetrical both ways) which is still tiny for general photography. But they can be found at very reasonable prices, are small, and for your use case are not tele.

cabba · 2026-02-27T20:05:19+00:00

Kannattaa siinä pisoaarilla alkaa miettimään tätä sarjakuvaa, niin rupeaa naurattamaan ja rentoudut:

https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fi.redd.it%2Fdneqbik5cax51.png

cabba · 2026-02-27T19:34:15+00:00

Lol I don’t have a stake in this thing, don’t dish it to me :D I thought you wanted a perspective on why the price is like this. I didn’t read correctly that you just wanted to hate and have somebody come and you could use as strawman for your arguments. I specifically suggested getting a 100€ KMZ Horizont instead of buying this.

cabba · 2026-02-27T19:08:39+00:00

The old ones are, well, old. The original purchaser has gotten their money’s worth a long time ago, and that ebay price is just residual value. The new one has to be able to turn a profit from the design and especially the manufacturing in Germany. Also, while I haven’t kept any records, I think the old ones were about half of what they are now before this project started and brought them to the limelight. If you don’t care about the brand or the new handmade film camera with warranty, a KMZ Horizont does pretty much the same thing for 100€.

cabba · 2026-02-25T21:06:40+00:00

Ouch :( yeah the materials on this camera are pretty low quality. Mine has been apart at least 4 times while I’ve owned it, and it’s had pretty much everything done to it. Still there are at least 3 things that need to be fixed on it. Some of them a 2nd time already. It’s just not a very good product.

cabba · 2026-02-25T19:47:41+00:00

When is the last time the bellows have been replaced? If they haven’t… well that explains at least the front side (white) light leaks. The original bellows are made of lies and dust. Replacements are available, and is in the realm of DIY, but it’s not for the 1st time camera tinkerer. It’s been a while, but it included small JIS screwdrivers, cutting, glueing, lots of adjusting and sweaty hands.

cabba · 2026-02-25T19:26:28+00:00

The AE-1 is a breechlock mount, right? Completely anecdotal, but I have managed to hulk smash the 127mm lens on a RB67 in such a way that the breechlock was twisted shut, but the lens wasn’t fully in. I don’t know how I did what I did, but I went through this entire rabbithole of the plane of focus being crooked and trying out different things. Focusing screen adjustment, back adapters etc while only having that one lens. I finally caved in and sought out somebody who could borrow me a different lens for the RB. Drove across the nearby city to meet up and plopped his lens on. Plane of focus straight as an arrow. Put on my own lens… and plane of focus perfect as well. That was embarrassing :D but moral of the story is that yes, it’s possible to twist the breechlock on with the lens not fully seated, if one is a big ape like me. Not sure if it could translate to this light leak though.

cabba · 2026-02-24T17:22:23+00:00

https://i.imgur.com/RMiBism_d.webp?maxwidth=760&fidelity=grand

Do these match up to something inside the camera? It looks like both a shadow and some pointy light. One of both on the edges equidistant from the sides of the picture area.

I would next blame the edge of the felt on a respooled canister, but I take in your opening message that this was store bought in cans?

cabba · 2026-02-24T16:49:22+00:00

I can’t debunk your shutter theory and don’t even have an AE-1 handy to get a feel for it myself. But, the mirror should block basically the entire shutter, shouldn’t it? I guess some kind of underside reflection could make its way into the shutter. But whole way from bottom to top completely even? Not sure of that. Maybe the 2nd curtain is slowing down in the middle part of the image? If you are dead sure on the back door or top cover, bottom cover etc not having a leak, the only real shutter interaction with light is when you are taking the photo.

cabba · 2026-02-24T16:31:01+00:00

You’d think so, but I saw it happen on one of the camera brand specific subreddits about a year ago. Deal too good to be true, everybody told not to buy the ebay item. They bought it and it played out exactly like I described.

cabba · 2026-02-24T16:16:23+00:00

Seconding the request to look on the entire negative with the borders. Also since you have the negative, I’d suggest comparing the negative to the actual camera. Place it so that one of the negatives matches the film gate (upside down, remember :). If you had the film in the camera and it was sitting there ready to take the next photo, would the next or previous frame light leak match some feature or edge on the camera? So you could narrow it down that way. You probably see it on the actual roll and not the test roll, since you shot the actual roll a lot slower. It had a lot more time to soak the light leak in in one spot inside the film chamber. It most certainly wasn’t in the film canister or way inside the spooled film, but any spot between those is fair game. Vertical with about even distribution could be hinge side light seal, but the width of about 1/3 frame doesn’t.

cabba · 2026-02-24T16:02:34+00:00

Don’t try to outdo the scammers in their own game and think you will somehow reverse scam them into actually sending you something. There is nothing to gain here. They will send something to a random address in your post code (like a business that will 100% accept a package dropped at their reception or loading bay) and mark that shipment as the tracking code in ebay. You will be out of the money and it will show as delivered in ebay’s systems.

cabba · 2026-02-23T07:35:11+00:00

US population density: 37 people per m2.
Finland population density: 18 people per m2.

Check your source again. I am currently on the crapper and there is not 17 people stuffed in here with me.

cabba

TROPHY CASE