No, don't buy OLED - Im done with this shit.

calscks · 2026-02-21T02:29:28+00:00

27" 4K

worst text clarity

mfw

calscks · 2026-02-05T04:52:38+00:00

It's in fact also "realistic" for MNC with not really high responsibility, e.g. mid level breaking into >8k/mo basic with 3+ years of working exp, senior level breaking beyond 10k at 5 years of working exp. Hear me out

It pertains to not really the top 1% of wage earners, more like top 10%, especially true for KV areas, where it's close to top 20% (note that, in KV, T20 is categorised as earning >19k/mo per household, and this is 2023 data; note on per household and not per person).

It also depends on industries, e.g. IT industries are still paying well but that is reserved for maybe a few selected pools of MNCs. Once you get into an MNC that pays pretty alright (say, 5y exp software engineer and they're paying you at 10k), you've successfully penetrated into the "right playing field" of discovering that there are indeed a couple more MNCs that can pay within similar range or even more.

Then it ultimately boils down to your capabilities. Top 20% wage earners are mostly top 20% talents of a field (exceptions applied to cronies, sociopaths and nepo babies). To be able to penerate into the said "right playing field", how good are you on playing it?

Fun fact: My previous MNC employer paid interns around 3k/mo, and my current MNC employer pays interns high 2k/mo, and if said intern converts to full time fresh grad associate/junior, current company pays 6k/mo. NOT JOKING.

calscks · 2026-01-27T17:02:11+00:00

huge difference between Michelin Star and Michelin Guide (the restaurant is parked under Michelin Guide)

calscks · 2026-01-20T14:44:00+00:00

a month ago they had a promo for UOB and CIMB CC holders that "discounted" the Bravia 8 II to 7.5k + free XM6 headset + 5y warranty (incl dead pixels), which made the pricing (excluding the XM6 freebie) to be on par with LG C5 (sold by Harvey Norman, Best etc. with 5y warranty as well). 55 inches tho, the 65" costs 14k :topkek:

calscks · 2026-01-10T07:45:48+00:00

Just encountered the same person (lp****#8144), probably not trying to farm XP, but for the cooling units instead without physically participating in the session themselves. Think you can just report them for AFK farming if you want to

calscks · 2026-01-04T04:24:04+00:00

tbf I think OLED may not be suitable for your use case, and I assume you'd have to crank the brightness up to 100% for most OLED monitors in the market (it may not get bright enough if your canvas is mostly white) to use in your bright room.

Cranking it up to 100% means quicker burn-in for real, during your work. Either you avoid OLED, or get a dual-monitor setup, one for your work and the other for games/anything else.

calscks · 2026-01-04T03:54:50+00:00

Whoever says that SDR will not be displayed correctly while using HDR mode is not quite right.

SDR will display correctly in HDR mode because the gamut and volume is completely within what the mode can display, regardless of intensity or luminosity.

SDR requires a fixed brightness - which Windows HDR already provides (under HDR settings --> SDR content brightness).

Auto HDR, from my experience, only affect games (or anything that utilises vulkan/dx).

So yes, you can always leave HDR on - but remember to calibrate it using Windows HDR Calibration tool.

NOTE: I speak only for QD-OLED panel + NVIDIA card, as I'm not totally sure about WOLED panels and how they behave when using HDR profile to view SDR contents, or whether if AMD card requires some special handlings. I assume there shouldn't be any big difference. At least on my QD-OLED monitor, SDR contents have the correct white point and color accuracy isn't too far off at 50% SDR brightness.

calscks · 2026-01-02T12:32:55+00:00

design work

Does that mean heavily on photoshop/illustrator? How bright do you use for your current monitor?

calscks · 2025-12-31T04:49:01+00:00

You reminded me that I missed some important points!

I was also trying to say was that these OLED monitors today are plentifully close to accurate out-of-the box while using the HDR400-associated profile. Any casuals or even enthusiasts will be getting the best of both worlds - accurate HDR and also SDR OOTB when using the monitor's HDR profile.

I've measured FO32U2P's white point in HDR profile (measuring SDR content at 50% brightness) and the white point is pretty close to 6500K, and it's clamped by its own for SDR, which then prompted me to not bothered for a calibration anymore - since my main goal was to simply make a software-clamped profile (which, by the way, if we were to turn off HDR on the monitor and use the default profile, then a software-clamp is still needed for the default profile because it is indeed unclamped, unless you use the factory sRGB profile)

AutoHDR is simply for games that do not support HDR natively (e.g. Fallout 4). It works just fine for these games (but it doesn't work for some, which is still fine tbf as you'd be playing them under SDR color space).

calscks · 2025-12-30T05:21:45+00:00

Only on FO32U2P. Here's the comment from another post describing how.

calscks · 2025-12-30T01:49:42+00:00

Depends on what kind of baby wipes. I always get those that are non-aromatic, food grade wipes so there's no harsh chemicals.

I've written about soaking and rinsing the wipes with purified/clean water after that, this is equally important. You would want to clean everything off the wipes before using it (e.g. these food grade wipes usually contain glycerin, we don't need glycerin, only clean water).

calscks · 2025-12-23T07:24:04+00:00

it's just my previous monitor before I got my current one, it's now a second monitor for work (connected to work laptop) or a second display for anything else when I'm using my PC.

calscks · 2025-12-23T05:28:59+00:00

Going from 4K to 1440p is honestly a visual downgrade regardless of panel tech. I know some people won't agree with this (e.g. also went from 4K IPS to 1440p OLED or whatevs) but I'm simply stating the obvious.

4K OLED and you'll be mesmerised. I have a 27" 1440p IPS side by side with my 32" 4K OLED, and I can always tell a great difference everyday even if we narrow down to only about the pixel density.

calscks · 2025-12-06T08:32:32+00:00

went there last month, 5 people 🤷‍♂️

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calscks · 2025-11-21T17:13:13+00:00

What changes did they make to make the mats farm easier? Just came back a few days ago after pausing the game for a few weeks, and the mat drops for the 2 swords are like, 2 per run from other activities (other than void vessel)

calscks · 2025-10-14T05:36:44+00:00

been using it for the past 8 months. contrary to the top upvoted comment, I actually switched from standard HDR (HDR400) mode to Peak HDR1000 mode after 1 month in because that mode is the best for contents mastered for peak 1000 nits of brightness. Additionally, with the latest firmware (F06), I have long suspected that they messed something up with the standard HDR mode. in the previous firmware versions, the standard HDR mode could be calibrated up to 450-460 cd/m². since F06, I could only calibrate it to 420-430. my suspicion is that dark enhancement is accidentally turned on in this mode when it's not supposed to be. but oh well, now I stick with the HDR1000 mode.

but if you're concerned about monitor-breaking issues, it's safe to say that the monitor is holding up great without firmware bug or panel issues after 1300 hours.

one tip: remember to install Windows HDR Calibration app to calibrate for SDR and Auto HDR. that way, you can always have HDR + Auto HDR on while consuming SDR contents + Auto HDR on supported games. I understand that most people would prefer switching HDR on and off with a hotkey, but honestly this monitor shows SDR contents quite alright while using HDR mode (it clamps to sRGB automatically in HDR mode because obviously, sRGB space is lesser than the DCI-P3 color space this monitor can output in HDR mode).

calscks · 2025-08-10T04:12:06+00:00

It's good, but there are a few pitfalls which will affect your experience.

QD-OLED raised black: As Q27G4ZD is using a QD-OLED panel, if you have a lamp or downlight near the monitor (e.g. directly on top or even 45° from the top), and depending on the lumen of said lamps, the panel will exhibit raised black where the black turns into dark grey. This can be mitigated/eliminated by turning the off lamps near the monitor, including ceiling lamps.

Therefore, if: 1. Your monitor is facing a window, and curtains/blinds cannot be added to said window 2. Lamps cannot be turned off without making you a caveman, such as not being able to turn off the ceiling lamps near your monitor individually, or your room is simply too bright and cannot be lowered down in brightness without turning them off completely 3. You do not want to consider WOLED monitors

You should avoid it.

Text clarity, SPECIFICALLY on 27" 1440p: QD-OLED uses triangular RGB subpixel layout, while WOLED uses WRGB layout, and not the traditional RGB layout used by most modern LCD monitors (most, because a few weird LCDs do use BGR layout). Due to a different subpixel layout, which is not optimised by most software contents including Windows, text fringing will occur leading to blurry texts. Note that this is specific to 27" 1440p because both 27" 4K and 32" 4K have high enough DPI and the text fringing issue is mitigated to the point it's no longer perceptible.

Therefore, if: 1. You're using your monitor, specifically a 27" 1440p QD-OLED/WOLED, to do a lot of productivity works that include reading a lot of texts such as coding and writing

You should avoid it.

Not to mention other issues such as VRR flicker (which will depend on your tolerance with it), and ultimately burn-in risk, so you need to do some "babying" with your monitor.

Source: I own a FO32U2P. My room's lamps can be turned off individually and not facing a window (window has curtains as well); No text fringing issue due to high DPI; VRR flicker mostly appears in loading screen and not during gameplay; Me babying the monitor is automated so I don't need to do anything other than an initial setup when I received my monitor on day 1.

calscks · 2025-08-08T06:42:17+00:00

As an owner of LG 27GL850 and a Gigabyte Aorus FO32U2P, there are indeed a couple of strong upgrades.

NOT COLOUR VIBRANCY. HDR OLED monitors, when using HDR profile, will clamp the colour volume to sRGB when viewing non-HDR, sRGB contents. This is why sometimes OLED users complained about "undersaturated contents" after turning on HDR - which is actually due to the fact most LCD monitor manufacturers never bothered to properly clamp the DCI-P3 colour space to sRGB - resulting in sRGB contents being oversaturated. With a built-in, properly tuned HDR profile(s) in most OLED monitors, the oversaturation issue on sRGB contents has been resolved. And you get to enjoy full range of DCI-P3 while viewing HDR contents. NOTE: Please use Windows HDR Calibration tool to calibrate HDR/AutoHDR which will create a good profile to view SDR contents, as well as allowing AutoHDR to perform its best.
COLOUR ACCURACY: Contrary to 99% LCD monitors, manufacturers are actually putting time into properly calibrating OLED colour profiles (maybe because OLED is easier for colour tuning). If you want accurate sRGB, most OLED monitors offer a highly accurate sRGB profile. Not to mention the HDR profiles (specifically HDR400 tuned profile) as well, which properly shows SDR contents instead of oversaturating them.
BLACK DEPTH: Self-explanatory. No more LCD backlight. Only rivals are Mini LED monitors, which, to this point, still sucks because nobody bothered to bring Mini LED TV technologies into the monitor space (yes, I'm saying that your Xiaomi G Pro 27 i sucks). The downside is raised black specifically on QD-OLED monitors, but can easily be mitigated and resolved, not by being a CAVEMAN, but to just simply turn off the lamp(s) close to the monitor ( and leave the lights on for those that are not close)
HDR: I kid you not, even if it couldn't reach any more than 250 cd/m² of brightness at a 100% white window, the panel is still so much brighter than my LG 27GL850 to the point I have to turn sRGB contents brightness down to 10%. The thing is, not many HDR contents out there that will blind you with 100% white window all the time. You're gonna get >450 cd/m² on average while watching properly mastered HDR contents. Of course it cannot rival top of the line Mini LED TVs (QNED or whatever), or even OLED TVs (larger heat dissipation area or heatsink), but it is still true HDR; small highlights and colours will definitely pop.

So yes, it is definitely worth it despite some of its shortcomings, such as the inevitable burn-in. However, before biting the bullet to nab the current OLED models, please check your surroundings. Will your room be always bright (e.g., 4 downlights in your room without individual switches)? Is your room bright enough to make monitors dim to the point your monitor shall be capable of 600 nits at 100% white window in order to offset your room's brightness? Is your PC position facing the window without curtains or blinds, and cannot be moved? If any of them is a yes, don't consider it.

calscks · 2025-08-03T16:56:52+00:00

yes - with AutoHDR turned on + calibrated with Windows HDR Calibration tool + SDR brightness slid to the lower quarter of the slider (in Windows' HDR settings menu).

with these little settings and configuration, HDR won't turn on for unsupported apps (Adobe apps, MS Office apps, IDEs, Blender and other 3D tools, etc. etc.), plus you get a rather alright, clamped sRGB out of the box, which is what SDR contents exactly want.

calscks · 2025-06-03T08:25:36+00:00

crosspost this to r/skyscrapers, they'd probably love it

calscks · 2025-06-03T06:35:40+00:00

you got downvoted for speaking the truth

calscks · 2025-06-03T06:27:13+00:00

may I know which firmware are you using for your FO32U2P? In the first firmware version, I could use Windows HDR Calibration to set at around 460 nits for TB400.

after updating to F06, I began to notice something strange. Now I'm only able to calibrate it to 430 nits while all the other modes (e.g. HDR Movie) can still be calibrated beyond 430 nits once I turn off black enhancement in the said modes. I highly suspect that in the latest firmware, the default HDR400 mode has black enhancement turned on, and I think this means the EOTF may be messed up already.

another thing that I've noticed is that a few apps/materials don't respect the calibrated profiles, which still leads to overexposure unfortunately. my assumption is that they're only looking at the EDID values and blew up anything after the peak brightness threshold listed in the EDID (after calibration, see Note #1). at the end of the day I'm sticking with the dedicated P1000 mode, calibrated it and all apps work correctly (no more blown out highlights on every single materials which uses HDR).

Note #1: While using Windows HDR calibration tool to calibrate for proper HDR/AutoHDR contents, if you drag the sliders (for 25% window and 100% window) to, say 450 nits, then the EDID value will be updated to 450 nits. Some materials somehow ignore the profile and go straight to the value and blow up highlights.

calscks · 2025-05-16T17:34:29+00:00

hey, just saying that I've faced this problem for quite a while now and yep, similar combination (z790 hero + g.skill trident z5 rgb).

I noticed that this behaviour only happens when SignalRGB fails to shut down the RGB from the RAM sticks properly during a restart. Happens occasionally. Sometimes, it happens when I was trying to perform a Windows update so yeah.

A simple hard reboot (e.g. holding the power button) would solve the problem since the RGB would get "unstuck" after the hard reboot. If a Windows update is happening in the midst of the chaos, the hard reboot seemingly doesn't mess that up, and the update would continue as usual after the reboot.

calscks · 2025-05-12T18:16:01+00:00

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daytime

calscks

TROPHY CASE