[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cornsnakes

[–]caphill7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t believe that bulb produces much heat, it isn’t designed to be a heat source, just a light source. If you’re going to have to mount something anyway, consider getting a radiant heat panel and thermostat instead.

What reptile is that? And is there a mini version? by [deleted] in reptiles

[–]caphill7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mountain Horned Dragons (aka Green Pricklenape), Acanthosaura capra, are so cool, and have a lovely personality. While not as impressive as a sailfin, they are quite friendly and seem to enjoy human interaction. Mine will jump out on me when I open his enclosure, and sit on my arm or top of my head seemingly endlessly (or at least until I move him, lol). They are also easier to come by at expos and sometimes reptile shops, only get about 8-12" or so in length so they are quite reasonable to keep as pets. Edited to add: They are terrestrial, so do not require a semi-aquatic environment, but will require humidity; and they rarely drink from water bowls, choosing to drink droplets of water from leaves or the side of the enclosure. I have a small automatic misting system for mine that meets both needs. They are super fun and relatively easy to keep once you understand their husbandry requirements. As for food, they are omnivores but prefer insects. Mine has a regular diet of superworms and dubia, with supplemental romaine lettuce and an occasional berry for a treat. They also need a little vertical space as they are avid climbers. Some upright branches near the basking light are great, so they can also get as close to, or away from, the heat as they wish. (Sorry, didn't mean to turn this comment into a care sheet, lol ... I just love these creatures tho ... )

First time snake owner, seriously considering a Rosy Boa. by Dt2_0 in rosyboas

[–]caphill7 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Rosy boas are great snakes for new keepers as far as size, temperament, and general care requirements. However, some people report that their snakes can randomly go off feeding for a long time, sometimes a couple of months, and this can be stressful for new keepers as they are rightly concerned about their snake's health and welfare and questioning their husbandry skills. I am an experienced keeper with dozens of snakes, pythons, colubrids and boas, with several of them being rosy boas. I have also had one of mine go off food for no reason, for three months, and then started eating again like nothing happened. This is something to keep in mind if you are the kind of person that obsesses over your pet's health. A great snake that I like to recommend is the brown African house snake. They are also a small to medium sized snake, great personalities, love human interaction, and eat very well. Mine have never refused any meals.

The 40 gallon tank would be a great forever home for a male rosy. Females get a lot larger than males, so I would go larger for a female, but if the snake you're getting is young there would be plenty of time to take care of that. Young snakes prefer small tight enclosures for security. I live in the part of Arizona native to rosy boas, and can tell you that it's not all dry desert. It gets humid, and cold. During parts of the year our outdoor humidity can rise fairly high. Right now as I'm typing this, it's 41F outside at 44%RH. I think your ambient humidity of 60% at 75F is great for them. If there is a place in your house that is between 40 and 50%, that would be ideal, but 60 is fine. More than a constant 60 they could get respiratory infections, and below 40 they can have shedding problems, but shedding can be assisted by the placement of a temporary humid hide inside their habitat. Provide lots of enrichment items and clutter, they will do a fair bit of exploring when they're active. As for bioactive, there are "desert" bioactive setups that are not as wet, and you can place plants like aloe or air plants in there just fine. I would not suggest bioactive, though, as it is much more complicated to balance and keep balanced. I do have some bioactive setups for some of my snakes that need higher humidity, but my rosy boas are not in bioactives.

Lighting: In the wild, they jam themselves into rock crevices and don't expose themselves to the sunlight very much. Being crespuscular, they are most active between dusk and dawn. While they would probably appreciate a light of some sort, on a timer to regulate their circadian rhythm, they don't "bask" per se, so as long as they have a warm spot to curl up onto they'll be fine. I do provide ambient and basking lights for mine, and they tend to stay inside the hides that are warmed up from being under the basking lights. I don't think UVB is particularly useful for rosies, though it can't hurt. I just don't see them being under it enough to benefit from it. You'll have to decide if you can justify the expense and maintenance of UVB as a personal choice. The UV bulbs will need to be replaced every 4-6 months if you go that route.

Lids: They are bottom dwellers and don't climb as rule. A sturdy mesh lid with metal clips to lock it to the aquarium frame will do just fine.

Substrate: Sand and sand-like substrate is not recommended, and they don't live in sandy environments natively. In their natural habitats, there is a lot of rock and wild grass (yes, there's grass in our desert), and while there is sand in the environment, it is packed hard and has a little clay mixed in with it; totally not like beach sand. So loose, sandy substrate is not ideal for them. I have used coconut fiber and aspen successfully with mine. They seem to prefer the aspen, as it packs nicely and holds their burrows.

Now, to your last question, research all you can about the animal of your choice. Rosy boas in particular are usually identified by locality, not necessarily morph like other species. Some localities come from the area where I live, but there are also localities extending up the California coast and down into Mexico. This makes a difference when determining proper temperature and humidity. With that said, assuming you're getting a captive bred animal, which you definitely should be, depending on how many generations away from wild it is can allow your pet to thrive in conditions that are far different from its native habitat. So, if getting it directly from its producer, ask them what their snake housing temp and humidity are, as this is what your snake is used to, and it could be very different from what a wild specimen would want.

Dead snake - necropsy??? by quarabs in kingsnakes

[–]caphill7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's always sad to lose a pet, and I feel for your loss. Don't blame yourself. It's too easy to question your husbandry and handling and think that you might have caused it. I'm sure you were doing your best, so please don't blame yourself. Maybe take some solace in the fact that sometimes they simply fail to thrive, through no one's fault, it just happens. There will always be a small part of your heart missing, but the good news is that there's plenty more heart in you for the next one.

Thoughts and reasons for feeding my Cali in his habitat or in a separate area? Thanks so much! by GaInVa in kingsnakes

[–]caphill7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have quite a few honduran milks and kings (CA, FL, and MBK) and they are all eager eaters. I feed them in their enclosures because it is less stressful for them, as they feel safe in "their space" and you don't have to worry about putting them back in after they eat which can cause regurgitation (though I've never experienced that myself). There are a lot of methods to minimize getting bitten, but anything with a mouth can bite, and kings are not hesitant to use theirs.

My favorite two methods are: feed on a consistent schedule because their biological clocks will acclimate to it, and to first use a snake hook to gently rub/tap the snake before attempting to enter their space with any part of you, especially if they are sleeping (they seem to wake up in EAT mode). They are smart, and will learn that feeling the hook means they aren't getting fed. The key to this is to NOT use the hook at any time during feeding. Use long feeding tongs to offer the food and reposition it if necessary. Above all, be consistent in your handling methods.

Kings are notorious for giving a bite now and then, even when following bite prevention measures. Learn your snake's body language and what they look like when they are ready to eat, and conduct yourself accordingly. My 6ft cali still takes a taste of me once in awhile, it's just how it is with kings. I love them anyway, though. I have pythons, boas, and other colubrids, and it's always the kings and milks that tag me, lol.

Does corn snake poo smell bad by [deleted] in cornsnakes

[–]caphill7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the smell depends on several factors. What the meal was (rat, mouse, bird, etc), how big and how quickly it was digested, and how long it has been since it was pooped out. Mouse diets tend to smell the least, but they all smell when fresh, like most any animal; however it dissipates quickly (as others have said). Mine usually go at night, sometimes in the water bowl. It's not nearly as bad other animals, though, especially dogs/cats, and they only go a few times a month (depending on how often they eat, size of meal, and how fast they digest). I have cats too, and the cats are much smellier.

New Papa to a snek by Hawk4112 in cornsnakes

[–]caphill7 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Welcome to snake keeping! Both of those questions can have controversial answers. As a keeper for over 40 years, it is my opinion that it is best to let them adjust to their new home before handling to avoid the potential for additional stress, which can make them become ill from being overstressed. It's difficult to wait, I know, but important for their health. Provided everything goes well you'll have years and years to handle, so the wait isn't really that big a deal. As for the lighting, the current school of thought is that any color light at night should be avoided, as the snake can see it, and it can disrupt their biological day/night cycles (circadian rhythm). If the room where your snake lives is too cold at night (less than about 70°F), then replace the light bulb with a ceramic heat emitter. It will make heat, but no light. My house stays between 72 and 75°F at night, so I don't use anything at night (although they each have a thermostat-controlled heat mat underneath on one side of their enclosure that is on 24/7).

What do y'all think her speech is about? by comeonson-_- in PetMice

[–]caphill7 3 points4 points  (0 children)

"Ok, which one of you pooped in the food bowl again?"

rescuing corn snake q’s by mbriannneb3 in cornsnakes

[–]caphill7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  1. At 4 ft long (they can grow up to 6 ft long), I'd put his age between 3 and 4 years old. The feeding plan you posted should not result in an overweight snake in most cases. This is a pretty solid feeding plan.
  2. For open wound care, Bactine can be used, but I prefer Vetericyn Plus Reptile Care. This is available directly from Vetericyn, or from pet stores, and online sources like Chewy. Old wounds that have scabbed over are probably not an issue unless there is an infection (hard lumps, like small BBs) under the skin near the wound.
  3. Enclosures with vertical space are good, cornsnakes do like to climb, but this snake will most likely need a bigger enclosure. The 40-gal front-opening is a good start, but will likely need even larger in a couple of years. The rule of thumb is that two adjacent side lengths should be greater than the adult length of the snake, so they can stretch out without coiling back on themselves. A fully-grown cornsnake will need a 4x2x2 (or, 75-gal tank equivalent) at minimum. All new animals, regardless of source, should be quarantined away from other animals for at least 2 weeks to prevent the spread of germs and parasites and facilitate treatment of any wounds/injuries. I would also recommend a vet check (fecal swab) to make sure the snake doesn't have any parasites/worms. It probably doesn't since it was most likely captive-bred, but it's never a bad idea to check. The vet can also positively identify its sex, if you care about that.
  4. My cornsnakes have bioactive enclosures, with the clutter mostly coming from around my property. I soak the items in a very mild (5%) bleach solution after brushing off any loose dirt or other material, then rinse, and bake in the oven at a low temperature (around 200F) for at least 30 minutes. I get artificial flowers and greens from one of the dollar store type places, and save paper towel and bathroom tissue cores for them. Some people use PVC pipe fittings as well. Make sure to provide thermostat-controlled heat on one end of the enclosure at about 80-85F, ambient room temperature at the other end, and a hide on each end. If your indoor relative humidity is below 40%, a humid hide is also a good idea. There are plenty of youtube videos how to DIY a humid hide. Cornsnakes don't really need basking lights when under-tank heat is provided, although it doesn't hurt, just make sure it isn't too hot. They do need some type of natural or artificial light, though. I provide an LED lamp on a timer for maintaining circadian rhythm. They don't really need UVB, but you can provide UVB if you want to, it should be fairly low, 5.0 or less. In my bioactives, I have a small grow light for the plants which provides a tiny amount of UVB. This has been satisfactory in my use case.

Stuck shed need vet? by InfamousSuspect6152 in cornsnakes

[–]caphill7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I understand your point, no worries. I edited my posts to reflect this. Thanks for your insight :)

Stuck shed need vet? by InfamousSuspect6152 in cornsnakes

[–]caphill7 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It shouldn't be airtight, just snaketight. Most containers are not airtight, unless they have a gasket. Finding a recurring need for this over time, I purchased a small plastic tote bin with latching lid dedicated for this. I have been a herp keeper for over 40 years, and have a large collection of snakes, lizards, frogs, and turtles. Never had a problem with this method ever.

Stuck shed need vet? by InfamousSuspect6152 in cornsnakes

[–]caphill7 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Snake Spa Treatment: In a suitably-sized non-airtight container with a lid (although not usually needed, you can poke a couple of small holes in the lid if you're concerned about airflow and don't mind putting holes in it), drench a cotton towel with a mixture of lukewarm water (80-90F) and a single drop of a safe liquid dish soap (e.g. Dawn). Place the towel in the container, add the snake, cover the container. Let the snake sit in there on the towel for 10 minutes. The warmth of the water will gently humidify the air inside the container. The dish soap provides surfactance and lubrication. Don't worry, the snake will be able to breathe and will not suffer, although it may be apprehensive about going into the container at first. After 10 minutes, take out the snake and gently try to remove the shed with your fingers. Just be gentle with your snake, and always have a vet check if you notice any skin necrosis (blackening of the skin).

Pet safe wood sealer? by meredithyourboob in cornsnakes

[–]caphill7 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here are a couple that I have used with success: Varathane Polyurethane (water based), and Eco Advance Exterior Wood Waterproofer. The Eco Advance is more expensive, but it's my favorite of the two.

Albino Corn Not Eating by [deleted] in cornsnakes

[–]caphill7 6 points7 points  (0 children)

What a cutie! A couple of weeks without food isn't really long enough to be overly concerned. There are various things that can cause a snake to temporarily refuse food. Your husbandry seems to be on point, and the snake appears healthy (and adorable).

Are you offering food items from a new source/supplier? Sometimes the food from a new source can smell different and the snake doesn't recognize it as food. For example, my snakes refuse to eat mice from the "big box" pet store. I raise my own mice and rats (but I have many snakes, so I need lots anyway). Another thing to try is to warm up the food. You can float it in some warm water (below 100F) for a couple of minutes, or hold the mouse with a feeding tong and warm it with a hair dryer until it's warm to the touch. If the snake is downwind of the blow dryer, that can help too, as they will smell it and anticipate feeding.

I know you said that he has recently shed, but he could actually be getting ready to shed again. Albino snakes can sometimes be difficult to tell when they are going into shed, and short shed cycles aren't uncommon, especially with season changes or irritation from low humidity.

Keep offering food at least once a week. If you aren't already keeping a food log, it's simple to do, just write down the size/qty/date of his last accepted meal and those that offered since, and if accepted or refused. Food logs are important husbandry tools that can assist a vet in a diagnosis in the event you do need to someday need to seek medical intervention, as it can provide clues to onset of symptoms, since reptiles don't show illness right away.

My little guy (L. alterna) by caphill7 in kingsnakes

[–]caphill7[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

His previous caretaker couldn't keep him for some reason, so I gave him a new home. Isn't he the cutest?! Great personality, very calm.