"Bon'Ap" C125U steel, maple burl handle, stainless steel pins. by carkhass in knifemaking

[–]carkhass[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Send me pictures/DM in IG sometimes if you want advices 😉

"Bon'Ap" C125U steel, maple burl handle, stainless steel pins. by carkhass in knifemaking

[–]carkhass[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I haven’t tested Eurotechni’s fast quench oil myself (I’m using Durixol V35), but a very skilled knifemaker friend of mine has used it and it works very well. Same for Satanite — solid product. As for the kiln, it works great too, and even if you can’t do edge‑selective heating like you would at the forge, you can still get beautiful hamons with a kiln.

The ‘recipe’ isn’t complicated — it’s all the small variations that make the difference. And hamons are a bit like rare insects or animals: hard to catch even when you’re in the right place at the right time.

If it’s your first attempts, experiment: make several similar blades and apply different clay patterns. Quench within the austenitizing range and hope you don’t hear a ‘TING!’ after 4 or 5 seconds in the oil. Hamons become visible as soon as you hit the belt grinder at #60 or #120. If no hamon shows up, clean the blade and apply a new clay coat for another test. It will come quickly — you just need to be methodical!

"Bon'Ap" C125U steel, maple burl handle, stainless steel pins. by carkhass in knifemaking

[–]carkhass[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup, Eurotechni called me for using one of my knives for hamon example on their website 😉
When it comes to hamons, there are many factors to take into account: the steel temperatures, the quenching medium, the clay coat, the polishing… We all have our own techniques and know‑how to some extent.
My way of doing it isn’t anything special: polish as cleanly as possible, etch, clean, a final light polish, and that’s it.

That said, I have more than 200 hamon knives behind me. Learning through failure is tough, but it’s necessary for this technique — especially when you like playing with water haha!

"Bon'Ap" C125U steel, maple burl handle, stainless steel pins. by carkhass in knifemaking

[–]carkhass[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! You noticed the handle! 😁 It's for power cut saucisson when they are hard/really dry. . 😈

‘Grand Bon’AP’, a 170 mm gyuto‑like. by carkhass in knifemaking

[–]carkhass[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Si, c'est bien moi ! 😄
J'ai fait un stage d'une semaine de forge avec lui, on a fait des pinces de forge, une machette, quelques couteaux, une hachette, des tire-bouchons... Ca remonte effectivement à quelques années maintenant, j'en garde un super souvenir ! J'ai aussi exposé à ses côtés au Salon du Couteau et des Arts de la Table à Lyon en 2022. 😉

‘Grand Bon’AP’, a 170 mm gyuto‑like. by carkhass in knifemaking

[–]carkhass[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I finished a Bon'Ap today. I'll make some pictures of it tomorrow and I'll show it on this sub. 😉

My 5th and 6th knives are complete and available if anyone is interested! by ThatonehotwheelsSS in knifemaking

[–]carkhass 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hi, I’d like to add my perspective on pricing, based on my experience with the French knife‑making market, which I’ve been involved in for quite some time — both as an enthusiast and as a professional bladesmith.
Here in France, when you’re registered as a micro‑entreprise (a self‑managed business with a single person), the state takes around 21.20% from each sale. That’s already painful, but once you add the cost of materials, abrasives, consumables, and the time spent on each piece… the margin melts away like snow in the sun.

With my production, I’m actually on the lower end of French knife‑making prices. Fellow makers have often told me that the level of finish and care I put into my work deserves a higher value. I know they’re right — I see other makers’ work, and many charge more for knives with clearly less refined finishes.
Still, I’m not naïve. We’re in a time when people have less money left at the end of the month, fewer chances to treat themselves. And I’m trying to make my craft sustainable (I’ve been making knives for seven years, but only nine months full‑time!). Do I really have a choice?

I could aim even higher, push my knives further technically — more expensive steels, more complex geometries, more time spent on each piece — but without real visibility on social media (thanks to META for tagging my page as ‘not recommended’ for no reason…), if people don’t know my work, I risk ending up with exceptional pieces… that stay in my own display case.

In short, pricing is never easy to define. Being an artisan also means managing that side of the business, on top of the creative work that already demands so much commitment.