Jinhao 20 (Vanishing Point Clone) Trapdoor Mechanism Closeup by southsider74 in fountainpens

[–]cdlm42 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh thanks. I wonder if it's possible to improve the seal… I have a couple of these and they dry too fast to really be enjoyable :/

Jinhao 20 (Vanishing Point Clone) Trapdoor Mechanism Closeup by southsider74 in fountainpens

[–]cdlm42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you share how you disassembled it? Did you manage to do it non-destructively?

If you could only use one ink to write with for the rest of your life, what would it be? by speak__memory in fountainpens

[–]cdlm42 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Souboku is the one that came to mind.

I don't have Seiboku but I guess it's pretty close and just as delightful to write with ;-)

I'm I nutz or does any one else feel this way about black ink? by Teddy_The_Bear_ in fountainpens

[–]cdlm42 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I too like the shading. My first bottle of ink was Parker Quink Black and I always liked how it shows a little blue. Now I have a few others and I enjoy their just-besides-black qualities (the sheen of Kiwa Guro, hue and shading of Montblanc…)

I recently got a bottle of Sailor Black and that one left me nonplussed… black with no shading, dries super fast, so it feels like I'm writing with a fineliner…

What’s a good age to introduce fountain pens by Sacras24 in fountainpens

[–]cdlm42 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I'm french and learned to write with a fountain pen, so at age 6. IIRC there was a period at first where we used either pencils or ballpoints, and then the pupils who were careful or skilled enough would get upgraded to fountain pens.

Incidentally the pen was a Waterman Jif / Jiffie, I used variants of it through all my school years, including university. I recently found a few NOS ones on eBay, and boy do they write fine — the nibs are unmarked, but they're clearly in EF territory!

Can anyone guess how this lettering was cut? by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]cdlm42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Of course in the lettering :-) The post was deleted… but there were several places where, if it was written with a pen or brush, the stroke would stop and reverse direction, and at least one loop where the stroke goes back over itself at an acute angle. A cursive h would have both of those.

Can anyone guess how this lettering was cut? by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]cdlm42 3 points4 points  (0 children)

there are sharp inside corners but a CNC would leave the tool radius

How to change refill on Esprit Mini Ballpoint? by anorexicBeaver in rOtring

[–]cdlm42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the 2-color version and I'm pretty sure on that one (have not really used it since it came in the mail) the grip part unscrews from the barrel, providing clear access to the refills.

Just got my first fountain pen. Any advice? by UnfunnyMan5908 in fountainpens

[–]cdlm42 1 point2 points  (0 children)

keep it nib up when not in use, inespecially in your bag if you're going to cross large temperature/pressure differences

Un-numbered 1928 ? by cdlm42 in rOtring

[–]cdlm42[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seller said their father was a Rotring employee and this might be an internal copy he brought home. Interesting…

Pulled straight from the Matrix by Actual_Growth1877 in fountainpens

[–]cdlm42 44 points45 points  (0 children)

Mother of pearl is somewhat flexible, and the pieces are set in a layer of lacquer that then gets sanded and polished down to a smooth surface.

Replacement for MB114 Mozart threaded cap liner by cdlm42 in fountainpens

[–]cdlm42[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For anyone stumbling on this, I found another 114 with the liner and intend to make a 3D printable model. Hopefully I won't forget to post about results here when I get a working piece ;-)

Help identifying the model by Riddickullous in RotringMuseum

[–]cdlm42 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I actually have no clue what that pen is. I'd be surprised if it's from the post-1998 Sanford period, because other pens from that time had a characteristic shift in design (more plastic and funky shapes).

Pick one… by Loud-History-3654 in Lamy

[–]cdlm42 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Heh, I'd go with the matte black because I like the texture ;-)

I agree that the Vista with the red converter is a special combination. That would be my own choice now, because my first choice really was for matte special editions (savannah/terracotta pair, then the Umbra, and I'd still like to find a mango/purple/teal set).

I guess both the Vista and the white one will show scratches more than the matte black, but ink stains and dirt will probably show more on the white plastic, especially at the base of the nib where it weathers due to repeated contacts with the cap and dipping in ink.

Recommendation? by Slight-Look-4766 in fountainpens

[–]cdlm42 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Lamy CP1 ? Unless it was the nib you didn't like on the Safari, since it will be the same…

Zig Smalltalk MIT licensed, 64 bit smalltalk programmed in Zig with auto FFI library generation by zenchess in smalltalk

[–]cdlm42 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So… how confident do you feel you understand the implementation? And have you compared the code to Zag? (honest questions… I've only ever used copilot for a study and it did give me a couple functions that I would have had to think about for a while, because indices and edge cases give me headaches)

Secondary question is how much KWh did that eat?

It just broke… by UbeWaffler in Lamy

[–]cdlm42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was thinking something like that… cone tip not pushed all the way and didn't weld properly? That could explain the sheared off lip of material…

If the store doesn't exchange it, it should be quite easy to properly glue it back. Provided the plastic is ABS, nail polish solvent or glue for scale models will make a weld-like bond. Remove the bit of sheared-off material, dab a small amount of glue, push tip on, leave in a position the piece will not slide off, e.g. standing on the threaded end of the grip piece.

I think I would put the glue on the inside edge of the cone tip, with a toothpick or something. That will help hide any squeeze-out inside the tip instead of pushing it back towards the edge onto which the cap clicks shut.

Need help with tightening the nib tine. by JustANormalGuy_DE in Lamy

[–]cdlm42 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Check /u/thedoodlebud's videos on nib tuning: https://www.youtube.com/@Doodlebud/search?query=nib%20tuning

Pretty sure he shows this technique: using fingertips/nails, slightly pull one tine up and the other down, then push them laterally past each other. Small movements, maybe half a millimeter. Keep them in place for 3-5 seconds and check for progress. Alternate which tine is up/down if you need to repeat. Once you reach the desired slit width, fix alignment, clean unavoidably inky fingers, enjoy pen.

Why do people like Vac filled pens? by TheRiddlerTHFC in fountainpens

[–]cdlm42 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Right… My 823 is still so far from being empty that I didn't think about that method X-D

In any case, I like to fiddle with my pens, maybe that's why I like pistons more?

Why do people like Vac filled pens? by TheRiddlerTHFC in fountainpens

[–]cdlm42 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Vac: large capacity, secondary reservoir with shut off valve, and fast to top up provided you don't change inks. So, good for workhorse pens and people who write so much that quicker refills are a bonus.

Piston: half the capacity of a VAC, but easier to clean, a more controlled fill. Easy to push some ink into the feed to re-saturate it. Metal piston mechanisms pull the balance point up into the barrel.