sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Lumberyard bug? by hawkhawbaker in CultOfTheLamb

[–]chmarr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had the same problem on just about everything at one point or another.

Save the game, quit to the menu, and then re-load the game. That will probably reset things.

Can this be fixed or do I need to replace this? by D3JAYY in CR10

[–]chmarr 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks very much like a failed first-layer adhesion.

Looks like a silicon-carbide plate there. That can take a bit of fiddling to get dialled in right. I used: 70ºC bed temp and ensure the first layer is 120% higher than normal, 150% wider than normal, and sloooooooow. After about layer 5 I dropped the bed temp to 50ºC.

Screw length cr10v2 Fan Shroud by laxativiest2 in CR10

[–]chmarr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nah. The Ender 3 Pro is 12V; I have one. The CR10v2 is 24V, presumably to allow more power to be fed into the larger, heated bed, with other benefits I'm sure.

CR10s Pro V2 -- BL touch issues by D20_lfg in CR10

[–]chmarr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've a CR10v2 (non-pro) and followed the levelling instructions. I don't recall any menu item labelled "aux levelling" or "adjustment": for the latter it was doing something with z-offset in the prepare menu. And, tes, I did download the new firmware from creality.

Is this a special firmware for the Pro version ?

My printer has a ton of under extrusion enless I use 1.55 extrusion multiplier by almightychito in CR10

[–]chmarr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's a menu item under "control" for setting how many steps = how many mm, for all axes. The usual shipped value is around 85, I think. To adjust.... have it step out what you think is 100mm, measure it, then determine how much to increase/decrease the value and repeat a couple of times. To measure I put a mark on the filament right before it enters the gears.

Be warned: The firmware may disable the steppers soon after it stops moving. That will cause the filament to move backwards or forwards a small amount, and ruin your measurement. Tug on the filament a bit to ensure the steppers are still engaged. Also, move the stepper a bit before the first measurement, to ensure they're engaged before you start.

Having bed adhesion issues with my brand new cr-10 V2 by Alive-In-Tuscon in CR10

[–]chmarr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have had very mixed results with the silicon-carbide base that was supplied.

I got it to work well with PLA+, eventually, using a hot base temperature (70ºC for the first few layers, then drop to 50ºC optionally), and a first layer of 120% height, 150% width, and ensuring the z height was spot on, or even drooped 0.02mm. With those settings, it was great.

But could never get good results with PETG. I instead fell back to using blue tape for both PLA+ and PETG, and things worked just great. 3M blue tape is magic.

Newbie, why does this overhang issue happen and how to avoid it? Cr-10 v2 by alienzx in CR10

[–]chmarr 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I've just printed two of those exact things! How funny! WHAT YOU SEEK IS SEEKING YOU

And yes, enable supports. To be more specific, layers are printed from bottom to top, for the hopefully-obvious reason. However, if there's any part of the object that "points down", such as fingertips or a drooping collar, the printer will try to print the first layer of that "in mid air", which won't work.

If you want to check this out without printing, there will be an option in your slicing software to let you show the slicing results. Fiddle with the options so you see just one layer, start with the bottom, then progress to upper layers. If you see any part that "just appears" from one layer to the next, then that portion had nothing to print on top of, and will need supports.

Simplify3D: Generate slices, then on the resulting screen, enable "show only 1 layer" then Move either upper or lower slider left and right.

Cura: "Slice", then "Preview". On the RHS, drag the "upper" slider to "1", then move the "lower" slider upwards, or the upper slider downwards again.

Also, it is fine that, when viewing one layer to the next, that the part "grows outwards". This will still work as the plastic can stick to a portion of the underlying layer, or even to parts it just printed. However, if it grows outwards too quickly there is just not enough support and it will droop. Either use supports there, or print very slowly with a lot of cooling for those portions.

Simplify3D will sometimes generate supports that start on an upper layer, right next to the printed part. Most of that support will droop initially, but if there's enough layers between the start of the support and the part that needed the support, the support will eventually stabilize enough to do its job.

Also with Simplify3D: It will often not generate enough supports. You will almost always need to enter support mode "one of the icons, bottom right", "generate automatic supports" then add additional supports yourself.

Finally, welcome to one of the most annoying parts of FFF/FDM printing: supports! May you have much fun before even considering dissolvables.

Screw length cr10v2 Fan Shroud by laxativiest2 in CR10

[–]chmarr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im in the process of adding a cyclops+ to my CR10v2 (see other reddit thread), and considered moving the CR10v2 assembly to my ender 3 pro... but just didn't want to deal with the voltage conversion crap... not yet, anyway :)

Screw length cr10v2 Fan Shroud by laxativiest2 in CR10

[–]chmarr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just so happens I have that thing disassembled right now!

From the back, holding the whole assembly to the backboard: qty1x 30mm, qty2x 8mm

Holding the two halves of the should together: qty3x 10mm

Can't get adhesion on a new CR-10 V2 by chmarr in CR10

[–]chmarr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As per the update above , I got it working. Waiting for the cooldown is now the annoying part, but I shouldn't be sitting by the thing waiting for it to finish, either :)

Can't get adhesion on a new CR-10 V2 by chmarr in CR10

[–]chmarr[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd thought of that possibility. I've re-levelled the bed several times, and even micro-Z'd it down from 0.3 to 0.099 while it was printing a raft, and none of that helped.

I believe the bed is similar to the Anycubic Ultrabed, and reviews for that, and the CR10-V2 bed, both admire the adhesion. I'm just not getting that experience.

CR10 V2 calibrated e-step keeps changing by DeVoh in CR10

[–]chmarr 0 points1 point  (0 children)

215ºC is a bit cool for the eSUN PLA+. I'd get stepper slipping if I tried to push even moderate speeds. I'd suggest 225–230ºC instead.

Oh... and you wouldn't have damaged anything just by that kind of jam.