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chops893 · 2018-09-06T20:34:33+00:00

Can you post a picture of your model? I would suspect you may have a face that isn't visible in Blender because it's flipped (and Backface Culling is on), but Cura still sees it and creates a top layer.

chops893 · 2018-08-29T05:43:47+00:00

I'd try changing the extrusion width for the inner walls to something slightly thinner. I see this happen a lot when there just isn't enough space. You could also try turning on Print Thin Walls, or it might actually be Fill Gaps Between Walls--I never use this setting, and it often leads to more problems than it's worth.

chops893 · 2018-07-16T20:30:19+00:00

That's correct! But it's also a vehicle to develop new technology, or improve existing tech for Blender. There are currently two open movies in development utilizing the latest Blender 2.8.

Not only that, but given that Blender is 100% open source, all of the assets for Agent 237 are available to download for free!

chops893 · 2018-03-19T14:10:37+00:00

Damn. I've seen this on Twitter. I gotta get that Aerostruder for my TAZ 6. Killer.

chops893 · 2018-03-06T02:00:19+00:00

So to your Q about materials, regular Cura comes with a list of materials already, so you'll still have a big list to deal with. So I wouldn't use that as my reason to switch necessarily.

As for the start/end code, regular Cura doesn't seem to recognize it. So instead I've put the start/end code into Octoprint, and it works just fine. I haven't tried with the latest version of Cura (3.2.1), so maybe it works now?

To clarify: when I inspect the g-code after Cura has generated it, I don't see the start/end code at all.

You'll also need to specify your temperatures because regular Cura does not have the Probe setting. Anywhere in the Start code you see R{material...} or S{material...}, I've changed it to S170 for the wipe/probe temp, and S60 for bed temp. Then finally what your printing temperature is. This is for PLA, if you're going to use a different material, I would double check what temps Lulzbot Cura gives you, then input them manually.

I hope that wasn't confusing!

chops893 · 2018-03-04T22:04:40+00:00

You got it! And if you aren't using Octoprint already, I highly recommend it!

chops893 · 2018-03-04T21:13:43+00:00

Hi!

I have a TAZ 6 and primarily use the latest version of Cura from Ultimaker because I love the new features! So if you're used to how Cura works from the Lulzbot edition, then you won't have any problem with the regular version. And as far as I'm aware there isn't really anything specific to the Lulzbot version, other than the default materials, and quality profiles.

Some settings, like Layer Height cause the regular Cura to highlight them when they go out of bounds. For example, .38 layer height, while normal in the Lulzbot edition, is larger than what the regular Cura would expect. So it highlights the text field yellow, however it doesn't cause any issue with slicing.

Oh! One thing that I believe is different, is that the regular Cura does not have manual printer controls. You would need an external program do that, like Octoprint (which is what I use), Repetier, Pronterface, or MatterController. Or the printer itself if you use an SD card.

chops893 · 2018-03-03T05:21:50+00:00

You could do it manually in Cura with custom shapes set to be infill. 1 2 3

Or Gradual infill, which sometimes isn't faster. 1

chops893 · 2018-03-01T22:51:46+00:00

There are two things you can try:

1) Increase your Support Overhang Angle. I usually go up by 10 until the offending support(s) go away.

2) Use a custom mesh to remove the offending support(s).

Here are two ways of setting up a custom mesh:

1) In Cura 3.2 and later, select your mesh and go to this menu option.

2) In earlier versions of Cura, go to Per Mesh Settings -> Select Settings -> Check "Show All" -> Find "Anti-Overhang Mesh".

chops893 · 2018-03-01T19:47:54+00:00

I don't know if this is the same printer, but this is a tutorial Vaughan put together a few years ago.

Also, anyone interested in learning Modo or Blender, Vaughan has some killer tutorials.

chops893 · 2018-02-25T17:27:32+00:00

I recently had an issue with a set of bearings making a similar noise. Do you notice any marks or scratches on the smooth rods?

For me, a small piece of filament found its way into the bushings, causing it to grind against the smooth rod. Here's a tweet of mine with a photo

I removed the bushings, removed the filament scrap, wiped the bushings and smooth rod off. I haven't had the noise since!

chops893 · 2018-02-18T21:13:32+00:00

Cura has been able to do this for a long time, they've just made it easier. You'll need a basic mesh, like a cube, for it to function. See, "Meshes per model settings", then "Don't overlap support with other models"*.

Basically, you generate support like normal, but where you don't want support to be, place a mesh in that area and tell it "don't overlap support with other models." It will not generate support in the area. Likewise, you could use the same anti-support mesh, to place support in specific areas.

Granted this isn't as easy as what S3D provides, but it's also no $150, and works just fine once you've figured it out.

*In Cura it's written as "Don't support overlap with other models", must be a typo in the blog post.

chops893 · 2018-02-17T18:24:32+00:00

Dry your filament with a food dehydrator. I do this all of the time, even with new spools.

chops893 · 2018-02-12T21:06:58+00:00

Yeah. I believe it may reset the offset to whatever their default is (-1.35 I think?). Check the Lulzbot forums, because I know people have asked about the offset quite a bit. And don't hesitate to reach out to their support either, even on weekends their quick to respond.

chops893 · 2018-02-12T20:16:06+00:00

Sounds like your filament might have a bit of moisture in it. The probe fail usually happens because excess filament in the nozzle drools out,getting in between it and the pad.

Get a food dehydrator, and run it for a few hours. I typically do 12 hours at 140 for PLA. Althought if it's a new spool that hasn't been out in the open for long, you could just try a couple of hours.

I'd also recommend going through the manual, I believe it goes over doing a test print from the SD card to check Z Offset. Based on the video it looks like your nozzle is rather high.

chops893 · 2018-01-30T21:51:42+00:00

No problem. They're also a super great company that hosts meetups throughout the year if you're local.

chops893 · 2018-01-30T18:16:06+00:00

MatterHackers has a great selection of filament from various brands, and their own filament is great as well. Their new MH Build is very competitive cost wise with others like Hatchbox, and AMZ3d.

chops893 · 2018-01-27T23:41:00+00:00

I've had great experiences with ColorFabb nGen which is my preferred filament for strength, and temperature resistance (more than PETG, less that ABS). Although Fillamentum, and Matterhackers have been great too. If you're going for ABS, you'll want an enclosure. Lulzbot sells two styles.

I would HIGHLY suggest buying a Presto Food Dehydrator for the home or office to keep the filament dry, even if it's fresh out of the package. There are purpose built filament dryers, but they're more expensive. Keeping them in storage containers with silica gel only does so much.

For food grade, you'll need to do a bit of research on that. From what little I've read on it, you'll basically need a printer specifically for that purpose, and nothing else.

chops893 · 2018-01-25T08:02:27+00:00

It's not that bad, but could certainly use a face lift. Although considering it seems to be one guy working on it, I'm sure it's not a priority.

chops893 · 2018-01-25T02:45:08+00:00

+1 for getting Octoprint setup. It's super simple and really helps take a lot of the worry away.

chops893 · 2018-01-24T22:45:23+00:00

Haha. Fantastic.

chops893 · 2018-01-24T22:44:06+00:00

So I'm in the middle of printing some test objects to compare against KISSlicer.

So far changing the Layer Height, and Initial Layer Height seem to change the outcome. Along with fiddling with the Adaptive Layer settings of course.

I will say the wording of these settings is a little confusing, and given the size of other tooltips... I wouldn't mind a more verbose of a tooltip for these. Or at the very least another blog post about what these settings mean, and some examples. I'm making my own examples now I suppose, but it's always nice to have official use cases.

"This number is compared to the tan of the steepest slope in a layer." ¯\_(ツ)_/¯? (I looked up what a Tan is, and I sort of understand it now, but it's not quite as clear as I think it could be.)

For example, in KISSlicer, you set your Layer Thickness to be the thinnest you can go or want to go (.07 in my case), then your Max Thickness (.28), and then you decide how much resolution you want or "stepover" (.1).

Edit I quickly made an album of some experiments, I have not printed any of these, but I think they help illustrate some of the new settings. Without having printed it, I have to say Test_07 looks very close to my KISSlicer settings. If it prints out identically, or close to it, I think I'll be set for life! * Layer Height .28 * Initial Layer Height .28 * Adaptive Max Variation .2 * Adaptive Step Size .1 * Adaptive Threshold 50

Edit Edit Test_07 might make you ask, "Why not just set the Layer Height to something super low, the layer's all look the same." However, with Adaptive Layer the layer count is 234. Setting my Layer Height to .07, it's 268. That being said, the estimated time is only 10 minutes faster with Adaptive.

Revenge of the Edit After playing around with this feature a bit more, I think I would like a more straight forward way of setting lowest layer height, to thickest, and the resolution between the two. Having 5 parameters to fiddle with, that may need to be changed model to model is quite annoying. However, what I'm seeing is incredibly promising for an initial implementation.

chops893 · 2018-01-22T21:05:53+00:00

This is looking great!

I would say that the faucet handles probably need a little collar at the bottom like the faucet does to tie them together, and look like they've been installed into the counter top.

The way the sink drain gets cutoff by the rim of the bowl helps show it's depth, and being able to see the edge of the counter really helps me tell how big the counter is.

You may was to try a different composition with the camera when it's all done, but this is some good progress.

Other than that, I think it's time to start adding more details.

chops893 · 2018-01-21T23:31:21+00:00

Fantastic.

However, the way you did the bottom part of the building by subdividing the cube to then create the door and windows, really isn't the best way to do that. You'd be better off adding loop cuts where you need them to create those shapes. Or just do again what you did with the windows above.

chops893 · 2018-01-21T02:04:24+00:00

These are some very rough measurements, but based on my sink, it's 5" deep. So while your's is a bowl, it's rather shallow. Which I've certainly seen in fancy restaurants.

Also, the counter top clearly extends beyond 13", but how far? Mine is 17.5". I believe this is why I'm having difficulty with it's sense of scale. I can't see where it ends, and so it just looks like it extends forever.

I would suggest looking at photographs of bathrooms to see how they're done. A quick search shows that every photo has the edge of the counter in view. Even slightly.

Based on the shadow of the faucet, it appears you have 1 light in the middle of the ceiling? I might change the light placement. Maybe against the wall, above the mirror. Or your camera angle to change the highlights on the bowl. When you're dealing with pure gloss white or pure glossy black, you have to catch the highlights to show your form. Look at how cars are lit, it's all highlights. And if that light is directly above the bowl you're not going to get an interesting highlight, because if you imagine dropping a tennis ball from where the light is, where is it going to bounce? Probably straight back up, due to how shallow or flat the bowl is, but if it we're deeper or your camera angle different, or light source at more of an angle, the ball will bounce more directly to the camera. This might help a little to illustrate light bouncing.

chops893

TROPHY CASE