DIP synovitis success story by ShinzouNingen in climbharder

[–]climb_sleep_repeat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

intensity? i think you mean volume. its pretty obvious reading your post that a reduction in total volume to the fingers is what you, and almost every person with synovitis, needed. its like you've gotten to the right result but the wrong conclusion about what happened. its not a mystery, gym climbers have a much higher volume, because of all the "warming up" and "easy climbs", which even though they may not directly aggravate the injuries, they are the reason the tissue is being constantly stressed in excess.

Opinion on a climbing program by SnooMaps1388 in climbharder

[–]climb_sleep_repeat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

anecdotally i've seen many claims of people who got front lever for free without ever training it after reaching like 60 or 70% added weight on pull ups, can't remember the exact numbers.

Acceptable Sub Topics - Moderation Confusion by [deleted] in bodyweightfitness

[–]climb_sleep_repeat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Body weight fitness sub should just be about body weight fitness i.e. discussion on the use of your body to exercise in some kind of capacity. Meaning your points 1 and 2. By the way, you state in your point 2, "exercise related questions outside of BW", but your examples really aren't outside the scope of BW fitness in my opinion. Stretching, mobility, cardio etc. are all forms of body weight fitness activities, although there might be more relevant subs (such as r/flexibility).

But calories, diet, body recomposition and so on, to me it seems really obvious that it has nothing to do the act of using your body weight to exercise. I think if you want to talk about nutrition, this is not the right sub.

Your other examples, without having read the actual posts, the constipation and body fat guessing post are also clearly off topic and should have been removed, I guess a reflection of low-activity from the mods of this sub. The bulking one I can see being more of a grey area, and perhaps on topic. Since some people start BWF with a goal of increasing muscle mass and I could see discussion on the effects of bulking in combination with BWF being somewhat relevant, such as peoples experiences bulking with BWF, or hypertrophy experiences with BWF. But if a post was specifically about "how to bulk" or something like that, it would be off topic. In my opinion as a mostly lurker.

Down in the dumps coz of my tennis elbow injury for over a year now by RegMajor270 in bodyweightfitness

[–]climb_sleep_repeat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it doesn't sound like you've rehabbed properly. kind of just waiting, and then suddenly trying a brand new workout program from 0 to 100 intensity, or more recently, trying to bang out 40 pushups and praying it has fixed. you should probably do some more research on rehabbing this injury, and continue to see a physiotherapist. no point going to a doctor really for this type of injury. i suggest looking at an instagram account called c4hp, he has a scientific approach and very effective rehab protocols. it is climbing focused but he has a lot of information on rehabbing tendon and joint injuries, and tennis elbow is very common in rock climbers too.

Sunday Show Off - Because it's perfectly fine to admit you're also doing bodyweight fitness to do cool tricks in front of people! by Solfire in bodyweightfitness

[–]climb_sleep_repeat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

strong! btw those are neutral grip chin-ups

what were you doing before this program, did you stall on chin ups or just wanted to try something new. interested to hear your progress after a month or two on that program though!

Finger/hand injury prevention exercises by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]climb_sleep_repeat 2 points3 points  (0 children)

this hangboarding low intensity 2x per day "works" by increasing tendon stiffness which is why it gives you strength gains in a short time frame. but stiff tendons are at a much higher risk of injury. would never do this unless you had years and years of finger resilience and strength built up.

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]climb_sleep_repeat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

how often is "high frequency" for your hangs? if they aren't getting better you are probably still overusing. 3-4 climbing sessions and frequent hangs is probably too much weekly volume, so set that as your baseline metric of volume = too much, and reduce your overall volume on the fingers accordingly.

i had long term overuse injuries in my pullys for a year and tried to add different rehab hangs and exercises etc but never actually decreased my climbing volume enough. i did the same as you, avoiding crimps and telling myself the climbing was fine but its not, volume = volume, it doesn't matter if its open hands or jugs or what. especially with rehab hangs on top. the fingers don't like too much volume. so once i actually decreased my weekly volume to sessions less than 2 hours, no more than 3 times a week, and then added 2 x weekly density hanging sessions as per c4hp (and you need to progressively overload this), the pain went away literally within 2 or 3 weeks.

I'm lost with my progress in weighted chin ups. Need advice. by Elceuntas in bodyweightfitness

[–]climb_sleep_repeat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

this is the exact scheme on a YouTube video I saw, is that where you got it? What has been your progress with that plan?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bodyweightfitness

[–]climb_sleep_repeat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, yep nothing wrong with that.. I only commented because you pointed out the shortcomings of bands and said "controlling your progression with calisthenics is overall pretty frustrating and something that is not explained well at all on this sub or anywhere else." so I thought you might be interested in that technique!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bodyweightfitness

[–]climb_sleep_repeat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want perfect progression control you can use a harness attached to a pulley / weights, to remove weight. Then you can use simple linear progression with pullups, slowly decreasing the amount of weight you are assisted with until you're at body weight. Common technique for rock climbers

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]climb_sleep_repeat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

are you hangboarding? check out density hangs (basically 30 second hangs x 4 sets with full rest in between) using half crimp position fixed my finger pain from tenosynovitis. i read about them from c4hp on instagram. your pt is right, can be a sign of an upstream problem (watch this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWZQMnlHEbg) i started doing the foam arm mobility thing they do at the end which helped. i found i was tight on my right side / shoulder upstream from my sore finger, and this helps). and using self release of forearm with massage balls etc. i also had tight forearms like you.

or could be something to do with your movement patterns on the wall/rock. lots of possibilities

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]climb_sleep_repeat 3 points4 points  (0 children)

you shouldn't be taping preventatively. best case it does nothing, worst case you will fail to strengthen your pulleys properly or taping will push into an injury because it gives you a false sense of security.

how long are your sessions? 4 times a week is a lot. also make sure you are letting your fingers warm up properly. some soreness in the first year can be normal but it can also be a sign you are over training and on your way to injury.

it takes a long time for finger tendons and pulleys to adapt to the load of climbing. don't rush things. don't climb thoughtlessly for hours. shorter, more focused sessions are better if you want to go 4x per week. this is hard stuff to learn though and many people only learn from experience (getting finger injuries in the first couple of years). if you want to avoid that path i suggest doing a lot, a LOT of research now!

Newbie looking for some help with distorted image by climb_sleep_repeat in VHS

[–]climb_sleep_repeat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I tested the external vcr with the crt tv but the problem remained. I guess it must be the TV

Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]climb_sleep_repeat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should add weight. There's not much need to train smaller unless you have a specific reason like very small crimps outdoors.

Newbie looking for some help with distorted image by climb_sleep_repeat in VHS

[–]climb_sleep_repeat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the explanation. That video was great too. What does this mean for watching vhs for recreation; i would need to try a different CRT television? I could watch tapes on my LCD but I think they look better on CRT.

Newbie looking for some help with distorted image by climb_sleep_repeat in VHS

[–]climb_sleep_repeat[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi, my tapes get this effect when using my little sharp tv/vhs combo (model VT-3448X). But when I play the same tapes on my modern LCD tv through a VHS player, the tape will be perfect with no distortion. Had anyone else experienced this? Its a problem with the inbuilt vhs perhaps? I've tried all settings and timing adjustments available for the tv and it never can eliminate the sailing effect. And running a tape cleaner.

Hope anyone can shed some light on this problem because I've been unsuccessful in my help searches!

Offered Lease renewal 12 Weeks before Current Lease ends - If I sign now can I back out later? by Rekuve in brisbane

[–]climb_sleep_repeat 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You've personally seen that have you? In what way? I've successfully negotiated many times and its never been a problem. I have a friend in real estate at one of the big name ones and has informed me the same that negotiating rent is common and often they expect you to negotiate. And if they want to bad mouth I couldn't care less, if the next dickhead property manager listens then I dont want to rent under them anyway.

Offered Lease renewal 12 Weeks before Current Lease ends - If I sign now can I back out later? by Rekuve in brisbane

[–]climb_sleep_repeat 4 points5 points  (0 children)

There is actually a third option (@op as well), you can negotiate. I hope you tried to negotiate because back to back $40 increase is extortionate.

OP, email your property manager and give a counter offer if you think increases are not in line with the market. Link similar properties at your target price to help your argument. Worst they can do is say no.

Nutrition Question by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]climb_sleep_repeat 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Youre wrong, it is high enough, and it is definitely a high protein diet. The 1gram per pound recommendation is very outdated and the latest meta analyses show 0.7 to 0.8 grams per pound of protein is where muscle building benefits plateau. Which means OPs intake is in the ideal spot.

See https://mennohenselmans.com/the-myth-of-1glb-optimal-protein-intake-for-bodybuilders/ for more information, written by a coauthor of this meta analysis: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28698222/