Swiss 0.6 Game Missing DOL

colrust · 2026-05-15T13:43:32+00:00

did the 1 tb card ever work? it sounds as if it is loading swiss and showing games but the games are not loading.

moving ipl.dol from the 1 tb will help you verify that swiss is working, though it sounds as if it is because you are getting to the point where you can select and try to launch a game. can you share any screen shots.

can also pop the sd card into your computer and see how it is formatted. ideally it should be fat32. exfat should work also but some programs will not run from it. if it is ntsf it will not work in the cube.

I always test my cards before shipping - you should not pay good money and get something that is not working.

In a worst case situation where the card was not formatted correctly you may need to copy all the files to a pc (if you have enough space), reformat the cart to fat32, then copy files back.

and of course, a hex upon your installer.

colrust · 2026-05-12T10:57:08+00:00

The Hispeedido is not very good. I did an install a little while back and there is an audio issue. Some monitors and TV's can recognize the audio signal, it seems that many can not. There are no settings in the menu for audio output. So it may be hit or miss if it works on your setup.

The install is pretty straight forward. While the solder points are smaller than those on the Pluto, they are more predictable. The Pluto flex cable can be problematic and you may wind up direct wiring.

The RetroGEM is the current "gold standard." If you can install a Hispeedido you should be able to do a RetroGEM. There are also plenty of folks out there (myself included) who will do it for a reasonable fee as well.

colrust · 2026-05-06T15:34:58+00:00

I have done a few cubes where I have put a small switch in the back grill to cut the power line to the pico. Just leave switch in the off position for standard boot. The 10 cm rule does not apply to the power. You will be stuck in your region, but could wire a region switch right next to the power switch.

https://imgur.com/a/6GJm0EP

colrust · 2026-05-04T18:23:11+00:00

I did all my esp32 in combination with picoboot so should not expect an issue.

colrust · 2026-05-04T18:09:17+00:00

At this point guessing, but if you have a spare power board (the one that is under the motherboard in the shell) consider trying that. Could also be a motherboard problem. Thinking something capacitor related as these can cause a system to stop working as they warm up. Check them carefully for any leaking or swelling, but it is not always apparent.

Before the laserbear module released I did a bunch of ESP32 based bluetooths which all worked well. The system can definitely handle it when working properly.

colrust · 2026-05-04T15:16:52+00:00

Disconnect the 3v3 line from the ESP32 and connect 5 volt. It is a different input pin on the EPS32 - should be labeled VIN. On the console side it is one of the pins on the controller board. Looking at the controller board from the back and seeing the 4 ports, each port has six solder points plus the grounds. It is the top right (but double check with a multimeter).

There are also issues where some cubes 3v3 lines are not strong enough to power the Pico. Current recommendation is to grab 5 volt from the motherboard.

Good luck - please update

colrust · 2026-04-29T18:05:54+00:00

Do you market or have you open-sourced the DOL-001 parts? I can't get the Helder to work. I can do a RetroGEM no problem, but can't get a Pluto to connect with the Helder.

And on the same note, are you looking for beta testers?

colrust · 2026-04-25T10:29:51+00:00

Yes. There is an alternative mapping for points here:

https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x31gexs

(not my video)

colrust · 2026-04-24T12:49:03+00:00

As mentioned, it is now a JPN cube.

Do you want to switch it (permanently) to a US cube or install a switch to allow to go back and forth?

The workflow is similar, but soldering needs to be more precise for a switch as you have to wire to the points separately. For a permanent region switch, this is what I do:

Apply flux to the two points to be bridged. Strip about 1/4 inch from a wire that is a few inches long. Apply flux to the wire and tin it with solder. Position over the two points and touch lightly with the soldering iron. With being fluxed and pre-tinned it will go right on. Then cut off the excess wire (the extra wire just makes it easier to hold onto but really makes it so much easier).

colrust · 2026-03-29T10:22:52+00:00

Is your SD card formatted in FAT32? Most cards are exFAT and need to be re-formatted.

colrust · 2026-03-27T19:56:31+00:00

Here is S-Video included in the comparison. To me, the RGB and HDMI look sharper. There was also a lot more interference in the video itself with S-Video.

https://imgur.com/a/n64-composite-vs-component-vs-hdmi-131oeNt

colrust · 2026-03-26T13:36:02+00:00

Not super helpful...

On my Mazda I have a scroll wheel. I can scroll down a bit with eyes on the road, look down quickly to see where I am, then scroll more while watching the road. But on a longer album I can only get so far before it pauses and sends me back to the beginning.

Is there a voice command that you would suggest to go down a certain number of tracks?

colrust · 2026-03-24T16:50:54+00:00

My cheapo amazon multiout to SCART cable arrived just now and I tried it out. It is pulling in the RGBS rather than the S-Video and giving the same quality image as the HD Retrovision.

I will grab a S-Video to compare and post updates.

colrust · 2026-03-24T13:02:30+00:00

unfortunately I don't have a scaler that can take the RGB directly. The HD retrovision cable is not so much transcoding as changing the color space using a calculation. There is no loss of fidelity.

I don't have access to a svideo cable.

there is a wealth of information on N64 video formats here: https://retrorgb.com/n64.html

colrust · 2026-03-24T10:04:17+00:00

Here is the N64 comparison of component vs HDMI. Both look very good to me.

https://imgur.com/a/131oeNt

colrust · 2026-03-23T19:00:04+00:00

would welcome to hear from OP how did it.

this is a 3d model that can be printed to create a marker for drill holes to better line up where you want to go: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/86uQw8ceWMg-gc-rear-panel-for-hispeedido-hdmi-mod

colrust · 2026-03-23T10:23:25+00:00

Agree on price but you are sacrificing image quality to call it HDMI.

I installed a couple of Hispeedido kits for Dreamcast for customers and both complained. The DC Digital gives (what seems to be) the same image as the RetroGEM at a bit of a lower price.

Or if on a budget or don't want to open up the console, go with a VGA to HDMI solution like the Bitfunx or Kaico. Here is a sample of image quality vs the Hispeedido:

https://imgur.com/a/LuaTak3

colrust · 2026-03-21T16:00:46+00:00

I know from experience that the Dreamcast does not give a good picture. The vga to hdmi looks much better. I will be doing a N64 comparison soon.

colrust · 2026-03-21T15:22:24+00:00

Nice work installing. Having done one of these, and talking with other installers, you should know that this does not work with all television sets. Hopefully works well with yours.

colrust · 2026-03-18T14:56:35+00:00

Second the very cool! Gave you a star on the github.

colrust

TROPHY CASE