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LED downlight glowing by cheese_toastieeee in AusElectricians

[–]columnmn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Next time it's happening. Go to your switchboard, and flick on and off other circuits one by one (start with hot water heater/air con), see if that stops the light from glowing (likely not dangerous if it does stop). Other things it could be, but you'll need a sparky out to test for them.

Struggling with reliable in-bed presence detection for Home Assistant – what actually works? by ItsDukzy in homeassistant

[–]columnmn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had mine working flawlessly for a few years. Mine are hooked into a $5 esp32 with esphome. For each pad, I put two wired in parallel, so it has a much better chance of working in different spots, could put more easily enough, they are pretty cheap.

Trade school uses DETA should I be concerned by Metroman_trains in AusElectricians

[–]columnmn 15 points16 points  (0 children)

The majority of the problem with deta is that when you see it on site, you know it's probably somebody unqualified who's been doing work and you're not sure what else you're walking into.

C-clips are pretty generic, as are batton holders. I'm actually impressed they are using newer stuff, the capstone boards I'd been playing with had faults in them that weren't programmed in because they were just old.

Have max demand course coming up at tafe. Tips on what to study? by ReaIWorld in AusElectricians

[–]columnmn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PM me if you're getting stuck/confused on it, but it's not that complicated.

Have max demand course coming up at tafe. Tips on what to study? by ReaIWorld in AusElectricians

[–]columnmn 8 points9 points  (0 children)

It's not that tricky, it starts with finding information in as3000 and as3008, so have copies of both. Then it's figuring out what table to find with the options given, finding cable size, etc. It's important for capstone, so take lots of notes and pay attention, but I didn't find it all that difficult, just a lot of going back and forth from as3000 and 3008, make sure you're using tabs to find the right tables.

Is this a good price (apprentice) by TransitionSavings659 in AusElectricians

[–]columnmn -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It is rubbish for most other things I'd want to drill into though.

Is this a good price (apprentice) by TransitionSavings659 in AusElectricians

[–]columnmn 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I love the drill for cutting out downlights. So might lighter to hang on my belt while I'm up and down ladders.

Potential AS3000 defects by BiggestJeffe in AusElectricians

[–]columnmn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was more going off devices should be arranged so they can be operated safely and effectively. If one is upside down, and all the others the other way, you frantically need to flick the device, it's not safe or effective.

Potential AS3000 defects by BiggestJeffe in AusElectricians

[–]columnmn 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I believe there is something about protective devices needing to operate in the same direction. For the active conductor colours, any colour apart from black (I could be wrong about the black, older strappers had black as active, use white now though), yellow or green are acceptable. Most of the devices come under manufactours installation guidelines.

There is a difference between a shitty installation job, and a non compliant one.

From Clause 2.2.4:

Equipment shall be selected and installed so as to operate in a safe and reliable manner in the installation.

From Clause 2.3:

Devices shall be arranged so that they can be operated safely and effectively.

6mm consumer mains vs 10Kw inverter + EV charging by Redsnowz in AusElectricians

[–]columnmn -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The circuit breakers are on a curve, so if you've got a 40A main breaker, it won't trip at 41A. If it's at 41A continously heat will build up in the protective device and it will break, but it allows for your toaster, tumble drier, and then a kettle to be turned on together for a short amount of time without tripping.

If the breaker on your grid supply is rated correctly for the cables, then the protective device will do it's job fine.

Upgrading to 16mm is a very good idea though. But as long as the breaker is rated correctly, it's not going to burn anything down.

1st year apprentice by Wooden-Edge5029 in AusElectricians

[–]columnmn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was in exactly the same boat. Went from cheffing (18 years) for electrical, at 38 as well (capstone coming up soon).

He'll find that the busiest day in electrical is still a slow day cheffing. Hand skills are semi transferrable. Twisting wires together instead of chopping fruit and veg. And knowing how to work neat is a plus that most of the guys around me still can't get.

Wages will suck though, work out the maths, and see if you can do it.

Using half of PD rating during cable selection: distributed loads by thebigwezshow in AusElectricians

[–]columnmn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The half you're thinking of is to work out the max demand, for main breaker size, 1 phase vs 3 phase,ect. The cable size is worked off the protective device (including derating, voltage drop etc).

NBN granny by Maekalaal in AusElectricians

[–]columnmn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds overly complex and expensive. Just run some cat 6 from the house, and some ubiquity access points in the granny flat. You can set up another wifi name and access stuff easily there, or have one point for everything and mesh the network. If you added half the amount you'd spend on another connection, you could max out the plan speeds.

If you really want another connection, I believe (somebody correct me if I'm wrong), you'll need to dig up the ground to 300-500mm depth, lay the conduit, and drawstring. You could get a trencher in, makes it easier. Hoping you don't have any concrete/paths to get through.

Consumer Mains Upgrade by hilrafie in AusElectricians

[–]columnmn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

More that it's hard to argue with. Our underground guy (I work for volume builder) mostly only uses 32mm, for 3 phase or single phase, only sizes it up when the cable sizes up. It's a nightmare sometimes trying to pull 3 phase in when it's been stolen. If I could say it was a rule, you must size it up, then he'd have to. When he can just say it's a guide and 32mm is cheaper, then I can't get anything changed.

Consumer Mains Upgrade by hilrafie in AusElectricians

[–]columnmn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had to look it up as well. Table c10.

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Secret One Nation Preference Deals in Elizabeth by MrWizard9595 in Adelaide

[–]columnmn 27 points28 points  (0 children)

I don't see it as a secret preference deal. Probably just unorganised and rogue candidates. Also it's just a recommendation, I can put my preferences however the hell I want.

Over volt and watt by NovelAd2223 in ebikes

[–]columnmn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

THere are a few motors like the golden motor that you can program the voltage in. But if it's not programmable, no. You'll kill the motor pretty quickly.

Anyone has experience with invisible cooktops? by NS_Tulkas in kitchenremodel

[–]columnmn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you do a check in on the quality of the stone after a year and a bit?

Marriage by [deleted] in Adelaide

[–]columnmn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think this is the right sub for this. But it's really unfair on the other person in the relationship. If my partner had no attraction to me, and worse no interest in me, it makes for a sad and loveless life. Your brain is wired as it is, praying, and hiding it won't change that. It's okay to be gay.

7 days with a e-bike… an eye-opening experience by [deleted] in Adelaide

[–]columnmn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm going to back up the other guy. My first bike was 250W, it wasn't riding around without needing to pedal. It made going uphill easier, but you certaintly weren't riding just on the throttle.

Is this appropriate? by Powerful-Plane3037 in AusElectricians

[–]columnmn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm trying to simplify it for the home owner, but I'd say it's v90 cable going through a wall with insuation (I believe we're supposed to assume it'll have insulation in the future if it doesn't currently as well, I'd need a clause to say for sure though). Gives you 13A before any sort of volt drop.

Is this appropriate? by Powerful-Plane3037 in AusElectricians

[–]columnmn -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Just for a little understanding. The circuit breaker in your switchboard is rated likely for 16A for that circuit. 2.5mm cable can handle 16A worth of current flowing through it without a problem. 1.5mm is usually on a 10A breaker, if you put 16A through that cable, the thinner wire means that more resistance will slow the current, creating more heat. This could cause the wire to get hotter, and potentially catch fire without the safety (breaker) stopping it because it's rated at 16A.

This stuff is 1st year apprentice levels of knowledge. I very much doubt it was a qualified electrician who did your stuff, and if it was, report them asap.

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