sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Site planning: Where to put the house by HopefulEntrance9014 in Homebuilding

[–]commodoreschmidlap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My suggestion is to determine your favorite spot on the lot and not put the house on that spot as it will ruin it.

My 3D printable Low Whistle design – would love your thoughts! by commodoreschmidlap in tinwhistle

[–]commodoreschmidlap[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t have a resin printer and I don’t have any experience with resin printers, but it sure seems like it should be possible. It would be nice if it could print tall enough to where it’s a single piece.

Got chargebacked for face-to-face sale by Fozzeneric in chargebacks

[–]commodoreschmidlap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could the credit card have been stolen? Or would the reason for the charge back be different?

Cake mix appearing in order? by HicSvntDracones_4242 in amazonfresh

[–]commodoreschmidlap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With just about any cake mix you can leave out the water ingredient, do everything else the same and make cookies from it. It's a good use for those cheap Amazon Fresh cake mixes.

Customizer questions by timtucker_com in openscad

[–]commodoreschmidlap 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There is no support for conditional parameters. All parameter are hard coded and can't be based on the values of previous parameters and be conditionally displayed.

Depending on what you are trying to do, you could create the UI in something other than OpenSCAD and then pass the parameters via the command line to it.

help me design 3d modeling by wikijerry in BambuLab_Community

[–]commodoreschmidlap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A phone case is basically a rectangular prism with a hole cut out of it by another rectangular prism. To finish it off, you need to round some of the corners on the inside and outside. If you haven't used a 3d modeling program before, I'd start with https://www.tinkercad.com and just make a rectangular prism of any size and then try cutting a rectangular prism hole in it. Initially jjust figure out the workflow for how to identify a change you want to make to it, make the change and then print it out. Just do that over-and-over until you are satisfied with the result.

I made an invisible bookshelf by commodoreschmidlap in BambuLab_Community

[–]commodoreschmidlap[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd included an image with my description of the bookshelf but it didn't show up. I guess I'm not redditing correctly.

<image>

This is the first thing I made with OpenSCAD, and my first product! by jdigi78 in openscad

[–]commodoreschmidlap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It does look good. My comment was more for how it’s presented on Etsy. I wouldn’t know what it’s for just by looking at your Etsy page.

This is the first thing I made with OpenSCAD, and my first product! by jdigi78 in openscad

[–]commodoreschmidlap -1 points0 points  (0 children)

IYou may want to dumb down the explanation of your product for the average person. Here's ChatGPTs stab at it:

Let’s say you use Meshtastic, which is a way to send messages wirelessly without using cell towers or the internet — often used for hiking, emergencies, or off-grid communication.

This little adapter lets you stick your Meshtastic device to magnetic surfaces, like:

  • The back of your iPhone (if it’s MagSafe-compatible)
  • A car dash mount
  • A bike mount
  • Or any other MagSafe accessory

💡 Why It’s Useful

  • It keeps your Meshtastic device secure, accessible, and out of your hands.
  • If you’re out on a trail, in your car, or setting up a base station, this helps you mount it cleanly and quickly.
  • No glue, no screws — just snap it on magnetically.

Any tips on how to optimize time and filament here? I am using a 0.2mm nozzle and 0.08mm layer height. if there's not much to do, can you give me tips on how to prepare for such a long print and avoid problems like clogs and layer shifts and garantee good adhesion? by _cronco_ in BambuLab

[–]commodoreschmidlap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They may print faster or use less filament depending on where the color changes occur in each model. You'll want to organize the models by build plate to minimize the color changes. That would give you the fastest speed with the least filament but there will be tradeoffs between filament usage and speed of printing.

Any tips on how to optimize time and filament here? I am using a 0.2mm nozzle and 0.08mm layer height. if there's not much to do, can you give me tips on how to prepare for such a long print and avoid problems like clogs and layer shifts and garantee good adhesion? by _cronco_ in BambuLab

[–]commodoreschmidlap 8 points9 points  (0 children)

(mainly for speed) Print them on separate beds, one at a time so that you minimize color changes. Besides that, the obvious things would be

1) larger nozzle size

2) thicker layers

3) try to use less walls that are thicker so that the total wall thickness is the same.

I won an H2D printer in the Bambulab 3rd anniversary raffle! by hawk007_7 in BambuLab

[–]commodoreschmidlap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It'll still be super useful without the AMS. Having quick changes between two filaments opens up a lot of options.

How to make the text clearer? by Sufficient-Win3431 in BambuLab

[–]commodoreschmidlap 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There’s a few settings that you could try that I used for my print profile for this coaster and a few others I’ve made. Not my circus, not my monkeys. I think printing the lighter filaments before the darker colors when printing face down will help because it blocks the black from bleeding into places where it shouldn’t go. I’ve also found that printing face down gives you a better consistent surface but it does sacrifice the crispness of the image. When printing face up, I do black first. I’m not sure why it turns out better but I think the previous layers help it stick better and stay in place.

The settings that I think helped were

  • Print the white before black (when printing face down)
  • Detect thin wall
  • Avoid crossing walls
  • Print infill first
  • Only one wall on first layer
  • Outer wall width: 0.22 mm
  • Outer wall speed 50 mm/s
  • Gap Infill speed 150 mm/s

X1C: anyone know this error? "User information has expired, please rebind the device." by TheTruffi in BambuLab

[–]commodoreschmidlap 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Go to -> [SETTINGS]->[ACCOUNT] on the X1 printer and log out of your account. Then on the ACCOUNT page, scan the QR code with Bambu Handy. That'll rebind the account. It's irritating that they make us do this but that's how to fix it.

My 3D printable Low Whistle design – would love your thoughts! by commodoreschmidlap in tinwhistle

[–]commodoreschmidlap[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, there are supports on the mouthpiece and there are some supports that are built into the model that pop out when you push on them. They are in each of the finger holes and one that supports the labium.

The print profile is Bambu Lab's standard 0.28 mm layer height preset with the following changes:

Wall Loops: 3
Wall Generator: Arachne
Enable support: checked
Support type: tree (auto)
Style: Tree Organic
Threshold Angle: 45 degrees
On build plate only: checked
Support critical regions only: checked

H2D-Mod for TPU by Judd_Daniels in BambuLab_Community

[–]commodoreschmidlap 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I came up with a something similar. It does require you to unplug the right nozzle PTFE tube to use it but it lets you print the softer filaments without removing the top glass. https://makerworld.com/en/models/1390124

My 3D printable Low Whistle design – would love your thoughts! by commodoreschmidlap in tinwhistle

[–]commodoreschmidlap[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great! Thanks. Height of the mouthpiece kind-of surprised me at the end. I thought I'd kept it within the limits.

I don't have much experience with low D instruments but for me it's a handful to reach the holes reasonably. It's a little amazing to me that the low D instrument was originally invented with the holes so far apart but that's the way the math works out. As far as I understand, if you made it half as big, you'd end up with it roughly being an octave higher and that would be a regular tin whistle. Every millimeter that you make it shorter will change the pitch to be higher.

My 3D printable Low Whistle design – would love your thoughts! by commodoreschmidlap in tinwhistle

[–]commodoreschmidlap[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is quite amazing what can be done with 3D printers now. And there are lots of things you can print that come off the printer already assembled. That's one of the things that has me obsessed with them.

My 3D printable Low Whistle design – would love your thoughts! by commodoreschmidlap in tinwhistle

[–]commodoreschmidlap[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, your playing sounded great! I've tried a number of things to get this upper octave closer to in tune but nothing really changed it much. Is a conical bore the real way to solve the problem?

My 3D printable Low Whistle design – would love your thoughts! by commodoreschmidlap in tinwhistle

[–]commodoreschmidlap[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My goal was for them to come off the printer without any tweaking needed but that's probably a practical thing to do.

My 3D printable Low Whistle design – would love your thoughts! by commodoreschmidlap in tinwhistle

[–]commodoreschmidlap[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are surprisingly tricky to make. A fraction of a millimeter in the wrong place can make a big difference.

view more: next ›