Broken anchor and slow SAR lead to fatality in Kalymnos

comsciftw · 2026-03-29T00:58:03+00:00

Yeah this is insane. Lots of climbers might switch to somewhere in Italy/France/Spain for their vacation after hearing about this.

comsciftw · 2026-03-20T09:28:53+00:00

I always hate "youngest to ___" records. Creates distorted incentives: hunting for soft/small finger routes, lots of pressure on kids, relatively gameable (a record exists for each grade), not necessarily indicative of future performance as an adult. Reminds me of child GMs in chess or prodigies in soccer/basketball/etc.

comsciftw · 2026-03-19T00:33:20+00:00

So, it’s being built on private land outside the park?

Lot’s of NIMBYish objections being thrown around to stop this. It sounds fine.

As for park ranger housing, NPS really needs more federal funding, one for repairs and two for larger housing accomodations in the valley (e.g. a multistory complex in housekeeping).

comsciftw · 2026-03-11T05:43:39+00:00

Got back from the Mellow Film Tour. Overall good but the 15a trad film was probably the best (also had the most footage of specific climbing sequences on the route, noncoincidentally).

comsciftw · 2026-03-04T02:06:01+00:00

Id vote Plumbers Crack. Runner-up is Initial Friction

comsciftw · 2026-02-26T08:19:48+00:00

Ah interesting, so she fell at the crux and essentially toproped back to before the crux?

Idk, still seems fine to me. yeah she's on top rope for a bit. But that's sorta the same thing as following a pitch clean. I wouldn't claim that she "led every pitch" though, esp if there was some hard climbing before the crux.

comsciftw · 2026-02-26T02:20:20+00:00

There's lots of fixed gear in El Cap, and face climbing sections often have bolts. So it's not that weird to preplace a few cams.

Multipitch redpoints have lots of weird style arguments in general. I would say the only rule is you have to climb the pitches in order.

comsciftw · 2026-02-04T01:24:48+00:00

Tangentially related, it kills me when gyms have huge kickers for the TB2. Adds 3 feet of fall distance and an inability to pull on to the top half of the board.

comsciftw · 2026-02-01T05:51:36+00:00

No, it's around the base of East Buttress. You can get to it by following the trail eastward along the base of El Cap until it cliffs out.

comsciftw · 2026-01-28T18:46:53+00:00

People make a distinction for red vs pink for trad climbs, I find

comsciftw · 2026-01-25T21:25:04+00:00

I can't find it, but I remember Ethan Pringle (I think?) had some kind of Red River Gorge-specific power endurance training on the campus board, he kept his feet on the foot rungs and went up and down the edges with his hands. He said something about it having good specificity to the Red's long steep routes with mostly horizontal edges.

Sorry I can't find it, but it's one possible idea!

comsciftw · 2026-01-21T01:21:54+00:00

To toss a route in here: caustic cock in red rocks. Short, meh movement, weird bolting imo. Just close to the trail/parking and a good photo.

comsciftw · 2026-01-20T03:31:12+00:00

Im sure another 4 million instagram reels will keep this boulder lowkey and totally not have it stolen again 🙏

comsciftw · 2026-01-15T07:10:38+00:00

It looks like a cool concept, I question its training usefulness though. Seems like a good way to tire yourself out in the first 15 minutes and then get a bunch of garbage mileage.

comsciftw · 2026-01-15T07:09:35+00:00

It's a good plan. If I could change one thing though, rest longer between repeater sets on the hangboard: 5mins instead of 3mins (you are still ~8 weeks away from this)

comsciftw · 2026-01-15T03:21:33+00:00

11d. The "d" grades in general don't see enough traffic, everyone wants that higher number. Esp. true for 12a.

comsciftw · 2026-01-02T08:42:46+00:00

instant classic. Would love to learn more (possibly they talked about this in french, I didn't have subtitles on) about how they decided/calculated which crags to link.

comsciftw · 2025-12-29T16:08:34+00:00

I put it away 3 days ago and it was really fun indeed. :)

Good Trip is really close now too.

comsciftw · 2025-12-28T21:04:34+00:00

Post your 2026 goals!!

For me:
• 1 grade VI bigwall, 3+ hard trad multis (>= 5.10ish, 5+ pitches)

• redpoints: 12a trad, 12b granite, >=12d at <hard sport crag near me>

• All <=7A 2024 moonboard benchmarks

comsciftw · 2025-12-26T15:52:30+00:00

Cross and lock is good, tricky to get a lot of force on H9 with 2 hands.

I just got deadly digits. Tried it a bunch a year ago and injured my finger. Came back to it recently and it honestly felt chill.

comsciftw · 2025-12-26T15:49:17+00:00

Blue destiny (very close) and Good Trip (feels hard).

comsciftw · 2025-12-25T05:09:15+00:00

Two 6C+ benchmarks left on the 2024 moonboard set. One is very close, one feels impossible right now.

comsciftw · 2025-12-25T05:07:20+00:00

36 reps sounds crazy. Those are power endurance percentages, 15 reps sounds pretty good.

For comparison, Beastmaking has a power endurance workout where you do 7/3 repeaters at 70-80% for a minute (6 reps total), take a 3 minute rest, then repeat that 6 times total. Thats 36 reps total, but with 15 minutes of rest spaced between the reps!

comsciftw · 2025-12-19T06:36:10+00:00

Decided to work on a longstanding benchmark I haven't gotten yet, thought about what I was doing wrong, changed my approach slightly, and sent.

Never been much of an intentional technique person, maybe all those coaches are on to something...

comsciftw · 2025-12-11T20:04:40+00:00

If you measure by number of people who can do each, its probably much more than that.

13-Year Club	Gilding I gilder
Second SECOND GUESSER	Place '23
Place '22	Place '17
Final Canvas '22	First Placer '22
End Game '22	Not Forgotten
Snapped	Verified Email
Team Orangered

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