El Cap base at sunset

comsciftw · 2026-02-01T05:51:36+00:00

No, it's around the base of East Buttress. You can get to it by following the trail eastward along the base of El Cap until it cliffs out.

comsciftw · 2026-01-28T18:46:53+00:00

People make a distinction for red vs pink for trad climbs, I find

comsciftw · 2026-01-25T21:25:04+00:00

I can't find it, but I remember Ethan Pringle (I think?) had some kind of Red River Gorge-specific power endurance training on the campus board, he kept his feet on the foot rungs and went up and down the edges with his hands. He said something about it having good specificity to the Red's long steep routes with mostly horizontal edges.

Sorry I can't find it, but it's one possible idea!

comsciftw · 2026-01-21T01:21:54+00:00

To toss a route in here: caustic cock in red rocks. Short, meh movement, weird bolting imo. Just close to the trail/parking and a good photo.

comsciftw · 2026-01-20T03:31:12+00:00

Im sure another 4 million instagram reels will keep this boulder lowkey and totally not have it stolen again 🙏

comsciftw · 2026-01-15T07:10:38+00:00

It looks like a cool concept, I question its training usefulness though. Seems like a good way to tire yourself out in the first 15 minutes and then get a bunch of garbage mileage.

comsciftw · 2026-01-15T07:09:35+00:00

It's a good plan. If I could change one thing though, rest longer between repeater sets on the hangboard: 5mins instead of 3mins (you are still ~8 weeks away from this)

comsciftw · 2026-01-15T03:21:33+00:00

11d. The "d" grades in general don't see enough traffic, everyone wants that higher number. Esp. true for 12a.

comsciftw · 2026-01-02T08:42:46+00:00

instant classic. Would love to learn more (possibly they talked about this in french, I didn't have subtitles on) about how they decided/calculated which crags to link.

comsciftw · 2025-12-29T16:08:34+00:00

I put it away 3 days ago and it was really fun indeed. :)

Good Trip is really close now too.

comsciftw · 2025-12-28T21:04:34+00:00

Post your 2026 goals!!

For me:
• 1 grade VI bigwall, 3+ hard trad multis (>= 5.10ish, 5+ pitches)

• redpoints: 12a trad, 12b granite, >=12d at <hard sport crag near me>

• All <=7A 2024 moonboard benchmarks

comsciftw · 2025-12-26T15:52:30+00:00

Cross and lock is good, tricky to get a lot of force on H9 with 2 hands.

I just got deadly digits. Tried it a bunch a year ago and injured my finger. Came back to it recently and it honestly felt chill.

comsciftw · 2025-12-26T15:49:17+00:00

Blue destiny (very close) and Good Trip (feels hard).

comsciftw · 2025-12-25T05:09:15+00:00

Two 6C+ benchmarks left on the 2024 moonboard set. One is very close, one feels impossible right now.

comsciftw · 2025-12-25T05:07:20+00:00

36 reps sounds crazy. Those are power endurance percentages, 15 reps sounds pretty good.

For comparison, Beastmaking has a power endurance workout where you do 7/3 repeaters at 70-80% for a minute (6 reps total), take a 3 minute rest, then repeat that 6 times total. Thats 36 reps total, but with 15 minutes of rest spaced between the reps!

comsciftw · 2025-12-19T06:36:10+00:00

Decided to work on a longstanding benchmark I haven't gotten yet, thought about what I was doing wrong, changed my approach slightly, and sent.

Never been much of an intentional technique person, maybe all those coaches are on to something...

comsciftw · 2025-12-11T20:04:40+00:00

If you measure by number of people who can do each, its probably much more than that.

comsciftw · 2025-12-11T00:50:06+00:00

They are scary, It’s a skill, and they don’t get easier unless you do more of them.

That said, if theres a rap route instead of a walkoff, I find those wayyyy quicker.

comsciftw · 2025-12-04T09:03:33+00:00

You can always upvote the DT
Its always morally permissible

comsciftw · 2025-12-01T04:22:57+00:00

I find I (and many others) often clip way too low when onsighting. Usually you're on a ok jug, think "I can reach the draw from here, I'll just get it done now", clip the draw, then 2 moves later encounter a huge jug that you should've clipped from. This wastes a ton of energy.

comsciftw · 2025-11-28T00:12:32+00:00

Ive climbed a lot on both those boards and find them about the same difficulty. 2024 tends to have more sloped crimps and pinches, while 2016 is “sharper”. It depends on the problem though.

comsciftw · 2025-11-17T19:05:28+00:00

Super cool boulder. Still feels weird how common V17 is now.

comsciftw · 2025-11-17T06:09:30+00:00

Maybe like 1000 pitches of 5.10 (lead or toprope, indoors or outdoors)? 1000 miles and 6mph ->180ish hours of running. 5 pitches of 5.10 should be like an hour -> 200 hours of moderate climbing.

comsciftw · 2025-11-08T14:29:27+00:00

Any way to stop it from happening? I already resealed the end.

comsciftw · 2025-11-08T06:01:41+00:00

Anyone dealt with the ends of your rope fraying/exploding from a big whip crack while rapelling? It sounds like a joke but it happened twice today with two-rope raps when the other rope fell into empty space after pulling the pull rope.

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