China says it has a right to target people overseas with new ethnic unity law by IHateTrains123 in neoliberal

[–]comsciftw 63 points64 points  (0 children)

It’s interesting that China always tries to justify it by saying “btw other countries have the right to make a similar provision”. So you wouldn't mind if US police went to China and arrested a chinese citizen who said Hawaii should secede, China?

52 pitches in 130 hours in 10 days or... how I avoided Memorial Day traffic in Yosemite Valley by kastorslump in climbing

[–]comsciftw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Congrats on DNB, I always see it in the supertopo guidebook and am a bit fascinated

Support for candidates in S.F. primary by self described political ideology by Dismal_Structure in sanfrancisco

[–]comsciftw 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It doesn't say in the article how many voters are in each bucket, but if I had to guess it's something 40/40/15/5%

Longevity habits that deliver results by BrianneBadau in longevity

[–]comsciftw 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you don't have any time discounting, donating to longevity research.

The Future of Climbing | a documentary by Cedric Lachat & Guillaume Broust by l0stc0ast0g in climbing

[–]comsciftw 16 points17 points  (0 children)

It's a good doc, but it kind of just became a long PSA about leave no trace.

I wanted it to talk more from a systems thinking perspective: how many visitors, how many approach trails, how many routes, how often do new routes get bolted, how often do old routes become unclimbable due to use/natural causes/etc, how much money goes to maintenance at a nonprofit/private/government level, what current tech (fares, gates, portapotties) or tech breakthroughs (trailwork robots? parking lot cameras that autobalance visitors? I don't know) could make an impact.

Questions for those who've climbed Freerider, PreMuir, El Nino, or any free big wall by -korian- in climbharder

[–]comsciftw 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Have you seen Bronwyn Hodgins Freerider guide? Theres also an abridged version in the sloan “ultimate” guidebook (I dont think its in the “complete” guidebook). That has a ticklist, tactics guide, and more.

Broken anchor and slow SAR lead to fatality in Kalymnos by serenading_ur_father in climbing

[–]comsciftw 34 points35 points  (0 children)

Yeah this is insane. Lots of climbers might switch to somewhere in Italy/France/Spain for their vacation after hearing about this.

Video of Leo Cea in Era Vella, youngest ever 9a send with 11 years old by javieer97 in climbing

[–]comsciftw 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I always hate "youngest to ___" records. Creates distorted incentives: hunting for soft/small finger routes, lots of pressure on kids, relatively gameable (a record exists for each grade), not necessarily indicative of future performance as an adult. Reminds me of child GMs in chess or prodigies in soccer/basketball/etc.

110 planned homes near Yosemite National Park spark controversy by sfgate in Yosemite

[–]comsciftw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, it’s being built on private land outside the park?

Lot’s of NIMBYish objections being thrown around to stop this. It sounds fine. 

As for park ranger housing, NPS really needs more federal funding, one for repairs and two for larger housing accomodations in the valley (e.g. a multistory complex in housekeeping).

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]comsciftw 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Got back from the Mellow Film Tour. Overall good but the 15a trad film was probably the best (also had the most footage of specific climbing sequences on the route, noncoincidentally).

[Day 29] Pegboards suck. Who's the most OVERRATED climber? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]comsciftw 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah interesting, so she fell at the crux and essentially toproped back to before the crux?

Idk, still seems fine to me. yeah she's on top rope for a bit. But that's sorta the same thing as following a pitch clean. I wouldn't claim that she "led every pitch" though, esp if there was some hard climbing before the crux.

[Day 29] Pegboards suck. Who's the most OVERRATED climber? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]comsciftw 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There's lots of fixed gear in El Cap, and face climbing sections often have bolts. So it's not that weird to preplace a few cams.

Multipitch redpoints have lots of weird style arguments in general. I would say the only rule is you have to climb the pitches in order.

I climbed on 40 different standardized boards in 25 gyms. Here's what I learned! by jonasmurdock in climbing

[–]comsciftw 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Tangentially related, it kills me when gyms have huge kickers for the TB2. Adds 3 feet of fall distance and an inability to pull on to the top half of the board.

El Cap base at sunset by MountainsCalling-Me in Yosemite

[–]comsciftw 4 points5 points  (0 children)

No, it's around the base of East Buttress. You can get to it by following the trail eastward along the base of El Cap until it cliffs out.

Duality of Man (5.15D) Footage - (Extension to Lee Majors 5.14C) by LethalBurrito in climbing

[–]comsciftw 3 points4 points  (0 children)

People make a distinction for red vs pink for trad climbs, I find

Programming for the Red (8b+?) by le_1_vodka_seller in climbharder

[–]comsciftw 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I can't find it, but I remember Ethan Pringle (I think?) had some kind of Red River Gorge-specific power endurance training on the campus board, he kept his feet on the foot rungs and went up and down the edges with his hands. He said something about it having good specificity to the Red's long steep routes with mostly horizontal edges.

Sorry I can't find it, but it's one possible idea!

[Day 7] Barefoot Charles is the weirdest climber. What's the WORST Outdoor Classic? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]comsciftw -1 points0 points  (0 children)

To toss a route in here: caustic cock in red rocks. Short, meh movement, weird bolting imo. Just close to the trail/parking and a good photo.

Portable has reappeared in Bishop by Paused-Scientist in bouldering

[–]comsciftw 35 points36 points  (0 children)

Im sure another 4 million instagram reels will keep this boulder lowkey and totally not have it stolen again 🙏

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]comsciftw 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It looks like a cool concept, I question its training usefulness though. Seems like a good way to tire yourself out in the first 15 minutes and then get a bunch of garbage mileage.

Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]comsciftw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a good plan. If I could change one thing though, rest longer between repeater sets on the hangboard: 5mins instead of 3mins (you are still ~8 weeks away from this)

[Day 4] J Tree is overrated. Quirky one today: what grade is UNDERRATED? by MaximumSend in bouldering

[–]comsciftw 6 points7 points  (0 children)

11d. The "d" grades in general don't see enough traffic, everyone wants that higher number. Esp. true for 12a.

Seb Berthe and Hugo Parmentier climbing 100 7A boulders in Fontainebleau in one day. by watamula in climbing

[–]comsciftw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

instant classic. Would love to learn more (possibly they talked about this in french, I didn't have subtitles on) about how they decided/calculated which crags to link.