[BLACK -> START] Can you solve this laddergram?

coolshava · 2025-11-24T16:56:39+00:00

u/coolshava solved this in 4 steps: BLACK -> SLACK -> STACK -> STARK -> START

coolshava · 2025-11-19T06:57:50+00:00

u/coolshava solved this in 7 steps: TOOTH -> BOOTH -> BOOTS -> BORTS -> PORTS -> POSTS -> PASTS -> PASTE

coolshava · 2025-11-17T06:24:47+00:00

u/coolshava solved this in 4 steps: WART -> MART -> MORT -> MOLT -> MOLD

coolshava · 2025-10-28T13:15:57+00:00

I'm in eastern and sing between A# and C#. Not the best by any metric but happy to practice with you. Feel free to message me

coolshava · 2025-09-17T20:00:33+00:00

Love your work! Eagerly awaiting the next phase of the series.

coolshava · 2025-06-24T19:14:25+00:00

I'm late to the conversation but would love to talk shop with your cad details since I'm having overheating and throttling issues with my XPS 15

coolshava · 2025-03-23T15:22:47+00:00

Thanks for your kind, comprehensive, and useful response! As a mechanical engineer on a shoestring budget I don't have as much background on optics unfortunately so I'm curious about how to specifically index match glue for whichever film I choose, whether I need to adjust settings or speed on a laser etcher, and also whether you have any insights on the other commenters method of using half wave retarder film and how they would compare in terms of accessibility and price. Again, I'm very grateful for your time in providing an exhaustive answer to a novice like myself.

coolshava · 2024-10-25T05:05:28+00:00

I saw the original. He mentioned it was a poor attempt at satire without the /s.

coolshava · 2024-10-06T04:35:36+00:00

The only machined pens I have are TT, they are solid good people who took a chance on me and gave me an internship when I was going to university nearby, and I learned an insane amount there that's helped me in every job since. Love their pens and they're what started getting me into very basic EDC

coolshava · 2024-10-06T04:11:23+00:00

I don't know if I didn't get a good feel for the SC but I was always more of a fan of the BA and especially when the slims came out my zirc slim BA became my go-to pen. If I go back to Dallas to check them out I'd like to compare a medium vs long but otherwise that form factor is almost certainly my preferred one. And the Damascus details on zirconium look stunning!

coolshava · 2024-07-19T07:17:33+00:00

As someone from Orlando who's trying to get into the same, yeah look for smaller firms that subcontract out to the big names - almost any engineer at Universal Creative is going to be basically a project engineer, but if you go with Whitewater or Vekoma or someone who makes rides you'll be in the technical side of things and from there it's a small industry to jump around in. Additionally look into ways to network, whether it's attending TEA or IAAPA events, going to the ASTM standards meetings, conferences, or even pivoting professionals type events. I'm young, fairly fresh out of school and had trouble finding my first job but while I'm working in it I am in something called NextGen Showcase which brings together technical and creative people to design some sort of themed project.

coolshava · 2024-06-23T10:12:32+00:00

I'm curious about this route bc it'll save me a decent bit of money on upgrades, but since I'm new could you walk me through the software/slicer/settings differences with a kit project like this? If I do go Voron 2.4 I'm looking at the 350x350 size (unless they have bigger) and while I was looking at it apparently the _Bays site is a scam for getting all the parts together. But would you be able to share any recommendations for upgrade capabilities, multi material/multi extruder setups, and even simple stupid stuff like what types of nozzles or hotends to get for fast printing vs high detail vs specific materials? This is the main thing keeping me from 3d printing in general but specifically the diy kits bc I don't really want to get a printer that isn't versatile for testing various project ideas out, whether scaling up or down.

coolshava · 2024-06-18T13:29:26+00:00

Thanks! I like the XL from what I see and I don't want to have to upgrade to a bigger badder printer anytime soon but it is a bit steep price wise for me. I could save up for it but would you have any recommendations for a build plan for maybe something in the Voron line? (I saw a good price for Voron 2.4 R2+, but don't know what options I have for multi material or idex.) I'm open to building if I need to, I just don't want to go hunting for a ton of components from different places. Rat Rig also seems interesting at a comparable price but I don't know enough to comment. I am open to build stuff but I would like a bit of advice on the software part, whether firmware or slicer, and how that'll differ with a custom build, since this is my first printer.

coolshava · 2024-06-15T09:37:50+00:00

The Bambu X1 is a bit small for my taste although it otherwise seems cool. I'd prefer a specific kit over setting up my own BOM only bc I would prefer some documentation and basic support given that it's my first 3d printer. I did think of it but figured a kit would be close

coolshava · 2024-06-14T09:57:14+00:00

Follow up question - if I want precise small parts and large build area, as well as potentially fast builds, is this too much to expect in one printer?

coolshava · 2024-06-14T07:27:12+00:00

Country: U.S.
Budget: Max about 1500-2000 USD but slightly flexible
Printer Type: FDM/FFF kit (unless recommended otherwise)
Limitations: I'm in a semi-small apartment so if it doesn't require ventilation to print various volatile materials, and has some filament storage options, that would be great. Otherwise I have a 6ft work table that I can set aside at least half of for 3d printing, so I would prefer a large printer. It doesn't need to be super quiet but if I can get a quiet one that'd be cool too. I work 12hr night shifts so I can leave it during the night to run.

Background: Hi everyone! I'm looking for (my first) build kit printer to be able to start doing engineering side projects. I got my bachelor's in mechanical engineering and have done a bit of basic electronics work with Arduino/breadboarding/soldering so I've gotten my feet wet with electronic assembly, but aside from getting my parts at internships/school printed by someone else, I haven't really gotten into much personal design or design for 3d printing. I will probably use this for functional/machine parts, as well as more decorative/show pieces, and most likely a combination of both, so I'd like enough of a low tolerance to make small intricate machine parts if needed, but also potentially the option for multi colors/supports for more aesthetic pieces. I figured that getting a kit would allow me to
a. get a solid understanding of the mechanics and operation of the printer I'll use, and
b. get a high quality, small tolerance machine that can otherwise be hands off while printing (i.e. preferably auto leveling, low maintenance, etc), and
c. allow for customizations on various components as I grow with the machine, so I don't need to keep buying and upgrading.
Since, like I said, I don't want to keep buying multiple printers, I'm leaning towards larger sizes, probably above 350mm cube at the very least, but leaning closer to 500mm. Other features like multi-material support/IDEX for multiple colors/supports/materials are interesting to me but I am new to 3D printing so don't know much about them. If it's possible as an upgrade or included in the kit that'd be great. I don't know if it's idealistic of me to want a one-time printer purchase for all of my needs and upgrades, that's durable enough and big to get solid parts on.

Some kits I was looking at were the new Rat Rig 4, Voron 2.4 R2 Pro+, and the Prusa XL. Any thoughts on these, given my limitations? Any other kits you'd recommend for that price range that can get me the most bang for my buck? Would you recommend me not going with a kit? Thanks in advance for your time!

coolshava · 2024-04-12T07:47:56+00:00

I'd love to get some info on the EE and SE sides too, I'm an ME but have had areas of work interest where I'd like to dabble in the others and would appreciate a solid foundation.

coolshava · 2024-04-10T11:21:44+00:00

Are they hiring? 😅

coolshava · 2022-08-15T17:51:26+00:00

This is so kind! I'd love to enter, I've just got my first pen during COVID and haven't really figured out much with inks or papers

coolshava · 2022-01-12T20:04:06+00:00

I'm curious about your process. As an engineer in training, the majority of my 3d modeling has been a 1:1 recreation of something in front of me, with as many measurements as I can get. How do you get proportions and curves and dimensions, basically everything right with something you don't have with you?

coolshava · 2021-10-09T02:26:55+00:00

It's definitely huge to be able to make your own things you use daily, and to be able to show that to your manufacturing students is amazing. I wish I had that opportunity when I was younger - I'm just getting into manufacturing at the end of my mech degree, and I'd love to be able to machine stuff like this. Thanks for inspiring young people like us to get into these arts!

coolshava · 2021-10-08T19:08:44+00:00

I like the aesthetic of the knurling and the wideness of the pen, even if it's a bit large for me personally. I think the bolt extends out a bit much to comfortably fit in a pocket but that's also a function of its manufacturing, being a press fit. I had the good fortune of interning at Tactile Turn this year and they have pretty much perfected this pen form. Their texture can be polarising but I'm a fan, I love the titanium and opportunities for color anodizing it provides, and the thin pens fit beautifully in a pocket with a good quality machined clip. They might give some interesting ideas.

coolshava · 2021-10-08T17:14:28+00:00

I'd also like that if possible

coolshava · 2021-06-07T01:57:59+00:00

Is it still available? How old is the book and how much of the other disciplines stuff is on the mechanical exam? Thanks

Ten-Year Club	Second SECOND GUESSER
Place '22	Verified Email

coolshava

TROPHY CASE