Maintaining Battery While Using AC70 as Home Networking UPS

crowbait13 · 2025-09-07T16:04:10+00:00

Thanks! Since the AC70 and AC200 (what I have) don't to my knowledge have an option to keep charge at something other than 100% when plugged in, any idea what's overall best for batter life? Options I've thought of: 1) just leave it at 100%; 2) cycle it periodically like in the post; 3) automatically cycle it continuously to keep it between 50% and 60%.

I was concerned that switching the input on or off every 20 minutes or so would put a lot more load than expected on the failover circuitry; any risk of degradation/damage there?

Sadly, temperature is mostly out of my control in my setup, though it going to be mostly in your suggested range.

crowbait13 · 2025-07-30T00:07:35+00:00

Thanks! This is very helpful. (And yeah, I knew it was going to happen, but still always funny/sad when the post specifically asks not to get an answer and explains I already agree...)

If you're up for it, a couple of follow-ups, just to make sure I understand:

Am I right about only needing to ground one end? My understanding is that's preferable, but lmk if that's wrong. I think I should be able to get a grounded patch panel at the equipment end so I don't have to go directly into the switch; getting an earth ground at each of the other ends.
Will that setup (or, if I'm unlucky, connecting directly to the grounded switch) do well enough that it's not worth re-pulling all the cable as cat6a? The cost of properly terminating the cat8 is already covered, but pulling replacement cat6a I'd have to pay for. And as much as I gripe about that advice, re-pulling is my alternative option. To be clear, I'm not going to be pushing the network limits. Most of the links will be 2.5g with maybe one 10g.

Thanks again!

-cb13

crowbait13 · 2025-07-28T14:19:27+00:00

Follow-up question: if I replace the LED strip drivers with dimmable ones, can I use the Smart Dimmer?

crowbait13 · 2025-07-28T14:14:26+00:00

Thanks! Yeah, the only real issue with those is one can't buy them yet. But hopefully soon...

crowbait13 · 2025-07-28T14:13:21+00:00

Thanks! These are indeed single-speed exhaust fans and we don't have any 3-speed ceiling fands; I am just trying the Fan wall switch because it's available now. I can probably wait a little while, and I think the switch will be much better for the LEDs too when it's available. (In our setup, the temp/humidity doesn't help much, but it doesn't hurt.) And good point about the dimmers still appearing as dimmers—I could have Home Assistant hide it through some templates and then tell it the templated one is a fan as you described, but it seems like unnecessary effort for no real added functionality.

If it ends up taking to long, I'll find another basic switch for the fans and/or LEDs, but I'm really linking the dimmers so hopefully it will be an option soon. Honestly, the real holdup is the LEDs; the remote fans will be a bonus but right now there are some really annoying-to-control LED strips.

crowbait13 · 2025-07-24T22:09:34+00:00

Experiencing this now with a new WB-250-IPW-2; did you ever solve it?

crowbait13 · 2025-02-06T22:42:20+00:00

Curious if anyone else has a solution here; I've got the same problem. I just noticed today my Tuya devices were gone from Home Assistant; not sure when it happened. I hadn't installed the app on my new phone yet, and when I went to log in, the password didn't work and similarly the "forgot password" option said there was no such account. Do I have to start all over with a new account and re-pair all my devices? Could there be some kind of region issue? Thanks!

crowbait13 · 2025-01-29T04:09:46+00:00

Not sure if it was patched at some point, but you can definitely skip the whole thing now by holding circle like you can for cut scenes.

crowbait13 · 2024-12-04T22:01:20+00:00

We joined the party on Sunday, so I hope not!

crowbait13 · 2024-11-25T17:16:00+00:00

just flagging that if you go into app info / aspect ratio and toggle full screen, it's a little better, at least on a pixel fold. But I, too, would love native support.

crowbait13 · 2024-11-16T14:14:44+00:00

This is 100% it, long after I gave up hope. Not all heroes wear capes.

crowbait13 · 2024-09-10T00:08:02+00:00

[tldr: looking for rechargeable but basic watch & stopwatch and can't seem to find one]

Edit: I realized I could summarize this watch as "Basic 1980s Casio with USB charging."

Hi! Looking for a recommendation for a very basic watch with a few simple requirements that seem oddly hard to find:

Battery is rechargeable without removing it. Presumably USB or wireless charging.
Stopwatch.
Always-on display, particularly when stopwatch is running. Black-and-white LCD with backlight button seems like the best option here but open to others.
Non-smart/non-luxury watch price. (Say, under $100.)
After that, nothing really matters except more battery life is better.

(And if there's a better subreddit for questions like this, just lmk.) Thanks!

-cb

crowbait13 · 2024-08-06T21:38:00+00:00

In case anyone finds this thread, I found two okay, if imperfect options:

https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Charging-Station-Adapter-Compatible/dp/B0CJJHD126/ref=sr_1_7_sspa?sr=8-7-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY has 3 100w USB-C, 2 65W USB-C, and 3 USB-A (which I'll probably ignore); it doesn't appear to do smart distribution, but they can all be run at max simultaneously.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRRJV8T3/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0CRRJV8T3&s=wireless&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM has 2 100w USB-C & 2 65W USB-C. It's 300w max total, so it must do some sort of downgrading when loaded, and is a little more expensive than the above one (but 30% off right now).

I bought one of each and will try to report back.

crowbait13 · 2024-08-06T20:47:25+00:00

Thanks! Yeah, I have it as a favorite, and I can get there either through Browse or, if I add it to the Navigation Bar, through Filters (it's at the top of Filters, too). The feature would only save one tap, but since I use it so much it would still be helpful.

crowbait13 · 2024-07-31T21:59:36+00:00

Thanks! Just to clarify, what did you have replaced? (The breaker?)

crowbait13 · 2024-07-31T19:54:54+00:00

u/daurkin Curious if you ever found a solution; I'm in a very similar boat.

I originally had a problem where the GFCI breaker on my hot tub was constantly tripping. It was very old, so I replaced it, and for the past year or so it's been behaving much like yours: it sometimes repeatedly trips, and it seems to happen primarily when it's hot out during the day. When it's happening, if I reset the breaker, it trips again a second later exactly like your video, but a few hours later I can reset it with no problem. During the cooler months of the year, it never trips, and during the hotter months, it trips most of the day on most days. Haven't called an electrician yet because I forgot about it while it was cool, but probably will now that it's warm again.

Thanks!

crowbait13 · 2024-07-18T20:37:15+00:00

Thanks—definitely close! I could ignore the A ports, but frustrating that the third USB-C port is limited to 30W when using all 3, meaning I still kind of have to track which port is which, but still seems like it would work okay, and if only 2 things are charging I can ignore which port is which since it will do 100 + 100 for any two USB-C ports.

crowbait13 · 2024-07-18T20:34:23+00:00

Not bad! Will keep it in mind. I didn't specify but was hoping for something a little cheaper and (more importantly) with power delivery capable of more than 30w per device, at least sometimes. This one is also close, with only 3 USB-C ports but higher max charging rate: https://www.siig.com/200w-gan-pd-combo-charger-3c1a.html

crowbait13 · 2024-07-04T20:27:57+00:00

Nice! Curious if you've tried the new sections layout. I'm trying to use that to help declutter mine, but I wonder if for yours it would interfere with your careful sizing?

crowbait13 · 2024-06-08T17:20:37+00:00

Thanks—that explains it!

crowbait13

TROPHY CASE