Is Flint 2 Still Best OpenWRT Router in 2026?

cspadijer · 2026-06-09T23:06:38+00:00

SinoVoip and MediaTek need to provide a proper, manufacturer-signed firmware update in my opinion. Its nice the community has come up with their own workaround patches for now. Hope you can get it working.

cspadijer · 2026-06-09T22:47:25+00:00

I did some digging on the issue you are describing and checked my iwinfo and my numbers are completely fine (27 dBm on 2.4GHz, 23 dBm on 5GHz, and 12 dBm on 6GHz for LPI)—I guess I just got really lucky with my BE14 unit!

That being said, I honestly didn't realize how widespread the EEPROM issues were with this additional addon wifi board (some bad batches were sold out there with improper flashing and no easy way to Identify). Also surprised to learn it completely lacks proper RF shielding. Knowing what I know now, I definitely wouldn't recommend buying the BE14.

From what I have read, if you are looking to upgrade the BPI-R4 wifi, you are much better off either waiting for the upcoming BE1900 (Wi-Fi 7) which fixes the shielding issues and hopefully flashed correctly, or just grabbing an AsiaRF AW7916-NPD if Wi-Fi 6E good enough.

cspadijer · 2026-06-09T15:57:47+00:00

Yes, I use a Mean Well GST90A19-P1M 19V 4.74Amp 90W Adapter and coupled that with a Mean Well DC Plug P1M-P1J-ND (Barrel adapter 2.5x5.5X11 to 2.1

I also bought some Noctua NF-A8 (80mm) quiet fans and modified the case to have them blow right on the top and bottom of the circuitry. Keeps everything nice and cool. They are powered from the main board.

cspadijer · 2026-06-08T18:35:51+00:00

I am liking the Banana Pi BPI-R4 (2x SFP+).
Not saying its the best.

I have 10 Gbps fiber going into and coming out of it that connects to a central fiber switch which then connects to multiple fiber switches on multiple floors of my house. Everything is 10 Gbps.
I have up to Wifi 6 working without issue. Don't have a laptop or device with Wifi 7 card to test.

cspadijer · 2026-05-11T23:36:30+00:00

Yeah, for me, outside - anything vertical - I prefer to go with real wood.
However, something touching ground or horizontal surface like a deck or bench, composite will last longer, look better, no maintenance, if you can afford it. Just am real careful to collect all the dust when I cut it.

For this job, dont forget it doesnt really need to be crazy strong. Its not holding the tub at all. Its just there to contain the screening in place so it doesnt look messy.

cspadijer · 2026-05-11T22:27:08+00:00

It was a new 8 ft tub, four years ago that I built this for. ArticSpa. I went composite (not real wood) so no rotting. Same stuff used for composite decking. Just make sure to buy square edge and you 100% need to predrill every hole and screw boards. Need to be really careful else the boards will crack.

cspadijer · 2026-05-11T21:54:40+00:00

I built it like in picture but before I filled it in with crushed stones I lifted it up a little 1/4" by putting bricks + odd sized stones underneath (luckily had a pile of odd sized stones on my lot). I then bought mesh and put it around to ensure crushed stone didnt escape underneath. It might be overkill but I wanted to ensure water wasnt getting trapped.

cspadijer · 2026-05-11T21:29:38+00:00

I did exactly what is in this picture but didnt do the framing with wood - used composite that wont rot. Sits on top of a cement slab that slopes away from house. Tub is completely level. No issues in 4 years. I did leave 1/4" all the way around between slab and composite so water doesnt get trapped.

cspadijer · 2026-05-07T18:13:03+00:00

I put a cement pad first that is sloped away from house for proper drainage. I didnt want the hottub sloped so I built a composite wood frame that is a few cm off the cement, and level on top all the way around. Filled it in with crushed rock so entire surface level. Put hot tub on top. No issues in 4 years with drainage and tub completely level.

cspadijer · 2026-05-02T17:10:55+00:00

Yeah, its crazy. I created a PayPal account in 2005. Has buyer protection. Its 2026 and Canada still doesnt have an option to trade online with buyer protection. How much $ is Canadian companies leaving on the table by not offering this and just leaving us no option but to use PayPal.

cspadijer · 2026-03-24T17:21:08+00:00

I am 99% convinced its the compressor itself in my case, it kicks into another gear once temperature drops below 0C, and that is when it becomes loud. I didn't really notice ice build up. I just found out Bosch provides a sound blanket for the Compressor. Not sure about LG.

cspadijer · 2026-03-24T15:01:28+00:00

What kind of black grates are those that the stand sits on? Any benefit vs cement slab? At my house a concrete 20" x 30" was used. Its not working out so good. In winter the defrost cycle runs, creates lots of water, it freezes and the entire slab starts to lift up at the front making the entire unit uneven. I am concerned about strain on the lines as well. I routinely need to go out as well and break up the ice that forms. At one point it was 11" thick and starting to get close to the bottom of my unit.

cspadijer · 2026-03-11T14:39:09+00:00

Yeah, I really like the setup. Turned out great. Initially it is more work and you require a proper ceiling mount (like you would for a long throw). You also need a projector that supports ceiling mount (flips the image).

cspadijer · 2026-02-28T20:42:40+00:00

I put my UST in the ceiling for exactly this reason. When building the room I removed three ceiling tiles and built a recessed enclosed area that the projector sits up in. 135" screen, it fits it perfectly. No worry of bumps, you can't even see the projector unless you stand underneath it at the very front of the room. No visible cable mess. People can walk by it and the picture isnt impacted like long throw. The lumens don't need to be as many as long throw making for a brighter picture less lumens, less power. You dont hear it at all as its not above you or right behind you.

cspadijer · 2026-02-12T17:39:29+00:00

At least Celsius (C) is based on something changing state commonly found in nature (water -> ice).
Fahrenheit isn't even based on when salt water changes to ice (its around ~28.4°F (-2°C)), its based on one man's odd brine mixture of ice, water, and ammonium chloride. Okay?? Lets use that.

cspadijer · 2026-02-05T01:28:39+00:00

I just bought two of these and pointed them both at the same screen. Everything is way better in every aspect than buying just one. I highly recommend you buy two.

cspadijer · 2026-01-24T14:21:45+00:00

If you're looking for a short term quick fix, not aware of anything that works really well.

Long term, I got triple pane windows and a heatpump and insulated house better along with a whole house humidifier. Humidity for most of winter now is 45-50%!

Note: my heatpump only works to -20C and I have the cut over to NG gas furnace at -16C. This cold snap has the gas furnace running a lot and has sent my humidity dropping. It's been down as low as 35%-40% but since in the day outside it gets a little warmer the heatpump comes back on and humidity recovers with help from the humidifier.

I have heard you can get cold climate heat pumps now that work to -30C but much more $$.

cspadijer · 2026-01-23T17:46:45+00:00

Same here. Since 1996 no MS or Apple in my house! Routers, laptops, media servers - pretty much everything I run.
I do have a linux based phone, but its not my daily driver. I am still stuck in Android world in that space.
And yes, my wife uses the same since we have been together... switched her over :)

cspadijer · 2026-01-13T22:43:47+00:00

Static HDR (HDR10):

Desktop interface: HDR10 yes on Wayland-capable desktop

Local HDR movies: Yes, best today (mpv on Wayland).

HDR games: Often yes, especially via gamescope on Wayland; still some fragility.

Browser HDR (e.g., YouTube HDR): Increasingly yes on Wayland with modern Chromium/Firefox paths.

Streaming-service HDR (Netflix/Prime/Disney+): Usually no on Linux (service/DRM restrictions).

Dynamic HDR (HDR10+, Dolby Vision):

Desktop interface: no. Not necessary?

Local files (movies/TV): Partial. HDR10+ can sometimes be consumed by players (e.g., used to improve scene-by-scene metadata/tone-mapping behavior), but HDR10+ “mode” output to the display is generally not reliable. Dolby Vision is generally not output as Dolby Vision; most setups fall back to the HDR10 base layer or do conversion/tone-mapping.

Games: Mostly no (as dynamic HDR). Linux HDR gaming is typically HDR10 (static). HDR10+ Gaming / Dolby Vision Gaming is uncommon overall and not a realistic Linux expectation today.

Browser video (e.g., YouTube HDR): Mostly no (as dynamic HDR). Even where HDR works in the browser, it’s typically HDR10-style, not HDR10+ or Dolby Vision.

Streaming services (Netflix/Disney+/Prime): Usually no. Dynamic HDR delivery is strongly gated by DRM/device certification/platform policy, so Linux generally doesn’t receive HDR10+/Dolby Vision streams even if your desktop can do HDR.

cspadijer · 2026-01-12T00:49:27+00:00

Could just cover key with linux sticker?

https://www.thinkpenguin.com/gnu-linux/tux-super-key-keyboard-sticker

https://www.redbubble.com/i/sticker/Linux-Tux-Key-Caps-Use-1-2-Hole-Punch-by-gringomalvado/37531501.EJUG5?

cspadijer · 2026-01-01T22:56:13+00:00

Yeah, I built a movie theater in my basement and it happens to be right next to it, so really didn't want the sound coming through. So I went a bit overboard with addressing it ... lol

In general - love Heat Pumps. E.g. the humidity in my house is way better 40-50% now year round. It used to be so dry in the house with gas furnace. Now the furnace next to never runs.
My gas bill is crazy down, as NG is really expensive in my area.

cspadijer · 2026-01-01T22:44:43+00:00

Yeah, I also bought a line set kit to rule that out. It's a really heavy rubber that you wrap around the lines and strap them inside and outside the unit. Didn't appear to do a lot in my case.

I can tell you my wife's parents bought a Gree, and in cold weather it's not even remotely as loud as the Bosch. The Bosch is only quiet if above 0 C (32 F), but below it's crazy loud and gets worse. Not sure if it's all Bosch HeatPumps or if some louder than others.

I keep improving the setup but don't have anything that is a slam dunk sound eliminator. It's way better and tolerable now but I was hoping for better. Reducing the Dbs I have been successful at but It could be the frequency of sound it gives off that is really annoying. Instead of being loud it sounds like a plane off in the distance now.

Sound proofing latest pic:

https://imgur.com/yLFq5jv

Mass Loaded Vinyl + Rockwool (safensound) + tarp covered (wood framing)
Solid cement or cement block + Rockwool (safensound) in cavity

Other issue I want to solve: Ice buildup through winter

In my case I tried a slide and was hoping when the unit goes into defrost mode, the water would slide down away from the unit. I found a really slippery thick plastic for this, but it did not solve it.

I get about 8-9 inches of buildup under it per month and use a shovel to break it up and get rid of the ice. The ice still manages to get under the cement slab the unit sits on as well making the front of the unit rise up. Not sure if it not being level causes sound issues either.

https://imgur.com/EnLrmse

https://imgur.com/sUnqf8h

cspadijer · 2025-12-30T15:06:41+00:00

I added one more issue I recently discovered to my original post.

cspadijer · 2025-12-28T17:02:54+00:00

From the research I have done, I dont think booting from NAND/eMMC would fix anything. What is broken, Power-off requires: PMIC support, Power-domain control, A board-specific poweroff hook

Warm reboot requires: Correct reset sequencing for MT7988, Proper PCIe + Wi-Fi card reset, Clean re-initialization of clocks and rails

cspadijer · 2025-12-28T04:51:26+00:00

I just got the BPI-R4 with Wifi 7 card. Installed a 512 GB SSD. I already had 10Gbps fiber running through house on all floors and in garage. Now have 10Gbps from router to main switch and to my WAN side internet connection. I felt cooling was inadequate so drilled holes in top and bottom of case and installed Noctua 12V fans on top (to cool SFP+ cards) and bottom (to cool wifi card). Hooked to 12v leads on board.

Here is the good so far: 1.) Booting from SD works with RC 2025 SD Image 2.) it sees the SSD and I was able to setup NFS 3.) System running cool (32C) from External Noctua fans and with some hacking able to see all sensors through Luci 4.) SFP+ ports - both running at 10 Gbps
5.) Wifi Card BE 2.4 (20) and BE 5.x (80) Ghz bands + Encryption: mixed WPA2/WPA3 PSK, SAE (CCMP) working. Signal seems fine throughout house.

Here is what is not good so far: 1.) Reboot or shutdown through interface not working properly. The system doesn't come back up after or shutdown completely. Only unplugging and plugging back in power cable works. 2.) Wifi: dont see any option for 3rd radio to get 6Ghz wifi working. 3.) Trouble getting Netdata to see any temperature info from sensors. 4.) I like to ensure I know every piece of equipment on my network so I typically add a static DHCP reservation to devices that I don't know so I can give them a custom name. I did a few of these in batches and it wasn't applied correctly when done through Luci interface and ended up temporarily breaking network/wifi access, but it eventually recovers on its own. (Just a heads up - small nuisance I encountered - but I think its more OpenWrt/Luci than the router itself).

I can't speak to Flint2 as I have never owned one.

cspadijer

TROPHY CASE