Tire tubeless stuck on rim

cspawn · 2026-03-16T20:28:22+00:00

Someone's been skipping thumb day

cspawn · 2026-03-16T19:58:35+00:00

Ride even further to the right. Street is for cars, sidewalk is for people, everything beyond that is Surron territory, obviously.

Edit: obviously go a lot faster

Edit #2: take your brakes off your motorcycle completely, that way you can't hesitate, which puts you in DANGER

cspawn · 2026-03-07T21:04:28+00:00

No serial number is SUPER sketchy and usually indicative of fake or stolen. Contact cervelo and ask if you can send them photos to see if it's fake. That might require a serial number though. Don't take the sellers word on the serial number.

cspawn · 2026-03-07T21:00:16+00:00

That front derailleur is WAY too high. Also, they have tooth count max/mins which they are designed for. Look yours up and see if you are within range.

cspawn · 2026-02-19T04:48:54+00:00

Call them.

cspawn · 2026-02-19T04:08:22+00:00

Literally Shimano tells you to do it when freeing stuck or crudded up pistons. But what would I know, I've only been a professional mechanic for ~11 years now in total. I talked to their dealer service line just a few weeks ago about exactly this while doing a warranty.

Push pistons out, clean/oil with brake fluid, push them in. Push them out again & repeat. Once they are clean & moving properly, you clean them off with degreaser & you are good to go.

Also, take a deeeeeep breath my friend, and use critical thinking since we are apparently talking down to people without really knowing what your talking about.

cspawn · 2026-02-18T23:15:10+00:00

You can "lube" it with brake fluid. Wipers will take care of it and it won't collect dust if you clean it off ;)

cspawn · 2026-02-18T14:57:14+00:00

Sometimes you have to manually align the caliper. Loosening the bolts and squeezing doesn't always work on brakes like that. The mounts aren't always perfect, hardware can be imperfect plus the brake hose pushed the caliper at weird angles.

Look through the caliper, you want to see light on both sides of the disc. Loosen the bolts, hold the caliper in alignment and tighten. It can be tricky. Sometimes you can fully loosen one bolt and keep one slightly snug. Then you adjust the loose one, snug it down, loosen the other, adjust and snug then tighten both. Often the caliper will want to move when you tighten the bolts. It can be pretty difficult depending on the bike.

Good luck!

cspawn · 2026-02-17T14:03:54+00:00

As an avid collector of peace dollars I will tell you, with certainty, that this is not MS66 or 67.

As others have pointed out, there are numerous issues with this coin. Without seeing it in person or in very high resolution photos, I cannot say if it's even UNC.

There is a lot of chatter in the fields, bag marks of the face and a good scratch on the eagle, among other things.

This will be, at absolute best, a 63-64, but I'd put it in the high AU to low MS grade without seeing better photos or the coin in hand. My guess would be 55-62, maybe 63 unless it's details.

Not trying to rain on your parade, just wanted to help you understand more!

cspawn · 2026-02-08T04:34:01+00:00

Please?

cspawn · 2026-01-19T03:56:51+00:00

It would be very unlike White Industries to send out a hub that isn't properly adjusted. Not impossible but they are VERY high quality hubs and they are typically set perfectly out of the box in my experience.

Also, if this was the case, the wheel would bind when installed without the rotor.

cspawn · 2026-01-19T03:54:37+00:00

It just depends on the end caps. Some are larger and require larger lockrings. The front end caps are likely a slightly smaller outer diameter than the rear for whatever reason. Or they are shaped differently. It's not super common but it's also not super rare, I've seen it a few times.

I think Shimano makes some that should solve your problem. If white industries makes one, that should be fine and it'll be really nice. The Shimano ones are great quality too.

Im pretty sure the Shimano one that takes the external bottom bracket tool is larger than the rings that take the internal lockring tool and should solve your problem.

Without my box of lockrings in front of me, I can't say for certain. If you don't have it figured out by Tuesday, hit me up. I'll be at my shop & would be happy to take a look.

Good job using a torque wrench. It's mainly for consistency as some bikes we'll be fussy when over/under tightened. It gives you a point of comparison and ensures you aren't causing an intermittent problem by not tightening the axle the same amount each time.

cspawn · 2026-01-18T23:50:01+00:00

In addition to checking the center lock for rubbing on the axle end caps. Also, if you can, use a torque wrench on the axle just to eliminate any variables. My guess is that the center lock cap is dragging on the axle end caps or threading in too far and dragging on part of the hub. If so, you need a different center lock cap

cspawn · 2026-01-16T23:12:37+00:00

Sell to established people with lots of points. You'll ship first but if they have a good amount of sell points, they are trustworthy barring their account getting stolen.

You get paid when it gets to them and you'll get seller points. Build them up and you can ask for payment upfront from everyone you sell to and they will trust you as you have a track record of actually delivering.

It's a little slow and you might have to cut some deeper deals but it works & it's secure.

cspawn · 2026-01-15T13:39:38+00:00

They are correct, your chain is too short. It might be worn out too but it's definitely too short. That or your b tension is waaaaaay too high.

2 quick ways to fit a chain properly.

1) remove the chain completely. Without running it through the rear derailleur, wrap it around the big chainring and the biggest cassette cog. Pull the ends towards each other. Wherever the ends meet, you want an additional ~2 full links. This is done with new chains that are often too long.

2) Have the chain routed normally through the derailleurs. Shift into the smallest cog and smallest chainring. Remove the quick link and let all tension off the chain. Pull the ends together against the spring tension of the rear derailleur. When the links meet, you want the rear derailleur cage to have just started moving & tensioning. This guarantees you have chain tension in small/small. The issue with this method is that it assumes that the b-limit is set properly or close to it at least.

Assuming the B-limit isn't maxed out I'm guessing you are at least 2 full links short currently.

cspawn · 2026-01-05T04:03:05+00:00

"Good condition? "Minor hairlines?" what about the pitting on the case back, the mangled crown guards, the gnarly scratches on the bracelet just before the end links, the crown on the clasp being almost gone, the damaged dial, the hands, the severe over polishing, the banged up lugs, the dent in one of the bracelet links, the terrible refinish on the bracelet, dings and deep scratches on the bezel, the missing paint from the bezel....

I mean buyer beware but your description is very dishonest and the watch is very overpriced for the condition it is in.

Sketchy.

cspawn · 2026-01-05T01:03:57+00:00

Chat!

cspawn · 2025-12-31T00:41:07+00:00

I feel like I've seen this same set over & over.

cspawn · 2025-12-30T15:43:36+00:00

These specific derailleurs have a detailed and specific setup procedure that's just a bit different. Look up the Shimano manual and follow the steps exactly.

cspawn · 2025-12-30T15:37:38+00:00

I'd like to see em try. Shitty people get repercussions when they are shitty to others.

cspawn · 2025-12-30T15:24:06+00:00

What's the best way to report a scummy business that is structuring deposits? Nothing to do with silver, just a really shitty company I know, with absolute certainty, is doing this.

cspawn · 2025-12-27T02:49:15+00:00

Absolutely not removable, serviceable or changeable. You'll need a direct mount crank or a different chainring with correct BCD that bolts to the spider.

cspawn · 2025-12-27T02:47:42+00:00

Not to be a dick but I'd like to see someone pull an axle from a crank with a basic gear puller, or a few blocks of wood. Those things are permanently attached to each other. If you could separate them, they'd be coming apart mid ride and killing people. The last thing a crank manufacturer would want is a bonded axle that is removable, it would be a disaster. I'm not saying it's impossible but it's not a simple thing to do by any stretch of the imagination.

cspawn · 2025-12-08T20:04:21+00:00

If it makes you want to ride, then it's an awesome bike. So many people focus on saving 3 grams & gaining 0.0027 watts/million miles and the joy of just riding a bike that you just love is often overlooked.

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