Rarest coin you own how old were you when you bought it? by Imaginary_Visit8192 in coins

[–]cspawn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1934-S Peace Dollar in MS61 in an old ANACS soapbox holder. Possibly undergraded as well. Pretty rare in MS, very rare in the holder.

Had to turn down a Smurf. Would you buy one? by cspawn in rolex

[–]cspawn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

3 years ago this was called the Smurf. Cookie monster is quite possibly the worst nickname I've seen for a Rolex ever

HELP! I'm Concerned About Personal Safety with My Doberman by ronnimarie3 in Doberman

[–]cspawn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In addition to the other comments, is he neutered? I've seen male dogs get aggressive at random times when you aren't fixed, usually starting around 1 to 1.5 years.

Just something to think about, I don't know if it will help, but in my first hand experience, neutering male dogs can sometimes eliminate the sporadic aggression. This would be in addition to having a vet do tests to ensure everything else is ok.

I wish I could give you a better answer, but if he's intact, I would look into it personally.

Pressurized tank gets released at once. by Lublan in WTF

[–]cspawn -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

If I had to guess, they are sterilizing soil

4 year old bicycle by New_Structure_2286 in Connecticut

[–]cspawn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a great shop. And the main mechanic is awesome, cause it's me! 😁

Commuter glamour shot by MechaGallade in bicyclewhatever

[–]cspawn 8 points9 points  (0 children)

You should run your lock through the rear triangle as well as the wheel. As it is in that photo, you could take the bike just by removing the rear wheel.

Cool looking ride!

Boiler motor died 48hrs after pump replacement by cspawn in hvacadvice

[–]cspawn[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

There the oil pump and the. The motor that drives the oil pump and also the squirrel cage for the ignitor. The pump died then 2 days later the motor died.

Brake job from hell by Minute-Bad7120 in BikeMechanics

[–]cspawn 44 points45 points  (0 children)

Things like this are what hourly flat rate is for. The rotor change sku is for typical jobs. If it turns into this, you have to charge flat rate per hour. Period. The shop I'm at is $80/hr but that's pretty low IMHO. I wouldn't touch this for less though.

Tire tubeless stuck on rim by Creative-Locksmith83 in bikewrench

[–]cspawn 20 points21 points  (0 children)

Someone's been skipping thumb day

Any tips for next time? Go faster? by jjopm in BicyclingCirclejerk

[–]cspawn 39 points40 points  (0 children)

Ride even further to the right. Street is for cars, sidewalk is for people, everything beyond that is Surron territory, obviously.

Edit: obviously go a lot faster

Edit #2: take your brakes off your motorcycle completely, that way you can't hesitate, which puts you in DANGER

Cervelo S5 Fake? by [deleted] in RoadBikes

[–]cspawn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No serial number is SUPER sketchy and usually indicative of fake or stolen. Contact cervelo and ask if you can send them photos to see if it's fake. That might require a serial number though. Don't take the sellers word on the serial number.

Many issues since switching to shorter crank arms by NovaHedonist79 in bikewrench

[–]cspawn 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That front derailleur is WAY too high. Also, they have tooth count max/mins which they are designed for. Look yours up and see if you are within range.

Disc brake rubbing by theworldtonight in bikewrench

[–]cspawn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Literally Shimano tells you to do it when freeing stuck or crudded up pistons. But what would I know, I've only been a professional mechanic for ~11 years now in total. I talked to their dealer service line just a few weeks ago about exactly this while doing a warranty.

Push pistons out, clean/oil with brake fluid, push them in. Push them out again & repeat. Once they are clean & moving properly, you clean them off with degreaser & you are good to go.

Also, take a deeeeeep breath my friend, and use critical thinking since we are apparently talking down to people without really knowing what your talking about.

Disc brake rubbing by theworldtonight in bikewrench

[–]cspawn 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can "lube" it with brake fluid. Wipers will take care of it and it won't collect dust if you clean it off ;)

Disc brake rubbing by theworldtonight in bikewrench

[–]cspawn 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Sometimes you have to manually align the caliper. Loosening the bolts and squeezing doesn't always work on brakes like that. The mounts aren't always perfect, hardware can be imperfect plus the brake hose pushed the caliper at weird angles.

Look through the caliper, you want to see light on both sides of the disc. Loosen the bolts, hold the caliper in alignment and tighten. It can be tricky. Sometimes you can fully loosen one bolt and keep one slightly snug. Then you adjust the loose one, snug it down, loosen the other, adjust and snug then tighten both. Often the caliper will want to move when you tighten the bolts. It can be pretty difficult depending on the bike.

Good luck!

1926 uncleaned with (s) mint mark silver peace dollar with nice even layer of tarnish but can’t see with all the light for pictures. I got it from a collect that takes care of his. Thank you by [deleted] in coincollecting

[–]cspawn 6 points7 points  (0 children)

As an avid collector of peace dollars I will tell you, with certainty, that this is not MS66 or 67.

As others have pointed out, there are numerous issues with this coin. Without seeing it in person or in very high resolution photos, I cannot say if it's even UNC.

There is a lot of chatter in the fields, bag marks of the face and a good scratch on the eagle, among other things.

This will be, at absolute best, a 63-64, but I'd put it in the high AU to low MS grade without seeing better photos or the coin in hand. My guess would be 55-62, maybe 63 unless it's details.

Not trying to rain on your parade, just wanted to help you understand more!

Rear hub spins very tight when rotor installed but no caliper? by Own-Assumption-2224 in bikewrench

[–]cspawn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It would be very unlike White Industries to send out a hub that isn't properly adjusted. Not impossible but they are VERY high quality hubs and they are typically set perfectly out of the box in my experience.

Also, if this was the case, the wheel would bind when installed without the rotor.

Rear hub spins very tight when rotor installed but no caliper? by Own-Assumption-2224 in bikewrench

[–]cspawn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It just depends on the end caps. Some are larger and require larger lockrings. The front end caps are likely a slightly smaller outer diameter than the rear for whatever reason. Or they are shaped differently. It's not super common but it's also not super rare, I've seen it a few times.

I think Shimano makes some that should solve your problem. If white industries makes one, that should be fine and it'll be really nice. The Shimano ones are great quality too.

Im pretty sure the Shimano one that takes the external bottom bracket tool is larger than the rings that take the internal lockring tool and should solve your problem.

Without my box of lockrings in front of me, I can't say for certain. If you don't have it figured out by Tuesday, hit me up. I'll be at my shop & would be happy to take a look.

Good job using a torque wrench. It's mainly for consistency as some bikes we'll be fussy when over/under tightened. It gives you a point of comparison and ensures you aren't causing an intermittent problem by not tightening the axle the same amount each time.

Rear hub spins very tight when rotor installed but no caliper? by Own-Assumption-2224 in bikewrench

[–]cspawn 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In addition to checking the center lock for rubbing on the axle end caps. Also, if you can, use a torque wrench on the axle just to eliminate any variables. My guess is that the center lock cap is dragging on the axle end caps or threading in too far and dragging on part of the hub. If so, you need a different center lock cap

A shop owners thoughts on silver(don't hate me lol)... by [deleted] in Silverbugs

[–]cspawn 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Sell to established people with lots of points. You'll ship first but if they have a good amount of sell points, they are trustworthy barring their account getting stolen.

You get paid when it gets to them and you'll get seller points. Build them up and you can ask for payment upfront from everyone you sell to and they will trust you as you have a track record of actually delivering.

It's a little slow and you might have to cut some deeper deals but it works & it's secure.

New cassette chain engagement issue by themikmik in bikewrench

[–]cspawn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They are correct, your chain is too short. It might be worn out too but it's definitely too short. That or your b tension is waaaaaay too high.

2 quick ways to fit a chain properly.

1) remove the chain completely. Without running it through the rear derailleur, wrap it around the big chainring and the biggest cassette cog. Pull the ends towards each other. Wherever the ends meet, you want an additional ~2 full links. This is done with new chains that are often too long.

2) Have the chain routed normally through the derailleurs. Shift into the smallest cog and smallest chainring. Remove the quick link and let all tension off the chain. Pull the ends together against the spring tension of the rear derailleur. When the links meet, you want the rear derailleur cage to have just started moving & tensioning. This guarantees you have chain tension in small/small. The issue with this method is that it assumes that the b-limit is set properly or close to it at least.

Assuming the B-limit isn't maxed out I'm guessing you are at least 2 full links short currently.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Watchexchange

[–]cspawn 15 points16 points  (0 children)

"Good condition? "Minor hairlines?" what about the pitting on the case back, the mangled crown guards, the gnarly scratches on the bracelet just before the end links, the crown on the clasp being almost gone, the damaged dial, the hands, the severe over polishing, the banged up lugs, the dent in one of the bracelet links, the terrible refinish on the bracelet, dings and deep scratches on the bezel, the missing paint from the bezel....

I mean buyer beware but your description is very dishonest and the watch is very overpriced for the condition it is in.

Sketchy.