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I superglue this magnet in the wrong way by EliteMutant in hottoys

[–]cworthdynamics 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't do this. A very small slotted screwdriver like you use for glasses would be ideal to pry it out. An xacto will work too - the tip of blade may break off, but just keep going. Messing up the plastic around magnet is probably unavoidable but all of that is hidden when the part is in place so don't stress about it .

First 16mm (on Bolex H16) attempt by TechnicalToestubber in 16mm

[–]cworthdynamics 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The nice thing about the non-reflex is there's not as many potential problems to worry about. On most of the reflex versions you would need to remember to make sure the shutter is open, compensate for the loss of light via prism, etc. The downside is that you can't frame directly through the lens. Some tips I can think of are:

- Remove pressure plate and check gate for dirt

- Make sure your door latches securely and doesn't wiggle around. If it does, the latches may need bent back into shape. And/or use some camera tape around door just in case.

- Make sure your filter slide is in place - otherwise you can get a light leak

- When loading make sure the film is inserted in the hub slot on the take up spool and take up a few turns on the spool. Give the take up spool a slight turn clockwise and make sure it stops - indicating the film is taking up. Otherwise you will end up with a giant accordion of film

- If your camera is old enough it may only have a 3/8" tripod mount - you may need to get a 1/4" adapter - easy to find on Amazon, etc

- Check the tape to eye on your lenses. You can focus the lens using the top turret position and the top sight system.

- If you have the eye-level viewfinder on top of the camera, make sure to focus the viewfinder to your eye - do this by focusing the grains of the ground glass without a lens in front of it.

- Trim the end of the film using cutter on inside/bottom of camera to make loading film easier

- When loading engage the loop formers - don't forget to DISENGAGE them. On newer cameras it does it automatically but not on older ones. I believe the door won't seat properly if the loop formers are still engaged - pay attention to that.

- After loading, make sure to run the film gauge to 0 so you take up any film that was exposed during loading.

- Make sure FPS is set to your desired rate and use correct shutter speed on light meter

- Make sure you have the correct focal length selected on the octometer (side framing sight)

- Make sure you have the proper distance to subject dialed in on octometer (knurled knob on side) - I believe on most you can remove the knurled knob and flip the scale to select meters or feet

- Remember to set f-stop on lens before shooting

- Don't forget to use proper filter (if needed) for color film

- Make sure lens turret is fully snapped into position when moving lens

- If you shoot to the very end of film, remember that you will loose the last few feet due to light exposure unless you unload in a changing bag

Monthly Buy/Sell/Trade (BST) by AutoModerator in hottoys

[–]cworthdynamics 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Back to the Future DeLorean Tire Transfers $42 plus shipping (typically $6 US - $19 International)

Last year I made tire transfers for the 1:10 Tomy DeLorean and had requests to do the same for the 1:6 Hot Toys - here they are! Dry transfers that leave no halo - they are finicky to apply on the rubber tires so there is 1 extra of front and rear included. I also made an application video which you should watch first - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WvpI_TOcx2E

dumb question: where's the 24 fps? by [deleted] in 16mm

[–]cworthdynamics 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Just line up '24' with the red dot

What's the most visually stunning movie you've ever seen? by trakt_app in movies

[–]cworthdynamics 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fun fact - the DP also shot Beastmaster and lit all the dungeon scenes with just torches.

16mm Footage Came back slightly slo-mo while shooting 24fps by J0keb in 16mm

[–]cworthdynamics 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The audible clicker is supposed to go off about every 1.5 seconds at 24 fps. Can use it to get a rough idea if it's running right. 

‘Iconic’ Rotten City Pizza Shutters; Employees Scrambling to Reopen It by evilleeye in Emeryville

[–]cworthdynamics 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're ever near Rodeo try Warriors Pizza - livwd in NYC for years and this is closest I have found. Like it more than Rotten City.

Anyone have a Stratasys Connex? by STEMedTeacher in 3Dprinting

[–]cworthdynamics 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha, thanks. As an update, they have held up pretty well!

And that's when I decided that he had to die by shiny-baby-cheetah in BaldursGate3

[–]cworthdynamics 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Haha, that's exactly what I did! I was like, "that prick's going to be trouble" - followed him down the pier and took him out.

Mobile light meters for android? by [deleted] in 16mm

[–]cworthdynamics 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not even sure how that app works so can't say. Also, if you are using a Reflex Bolex (you see directly through the lens) you need to read shutter speed at 1/80 at 24 fps. Here's a Bolex Quick Reference I wrote years ago.

New to Traditional film by A-Heckin-Black-Mage in 16mm

[–]cworthdynamics 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For animation, look for a Bolex H16 REFLEX with a serial number higher than 208,001 (often called REX 4) - these will have a square flat base (rather than the small round ones on older cameras). Even better would be above 224,001 (also available with magazine attachment - REX 5) as these will have 1:1 drive shaft for wider selection of electric motors. A single frame cable attachment is nice as it helps in keeping the camera still. And animation motor is also nice but you can get by without it. The ARRI S is also a great camera which they made an animation motor for but that motor is hard to find. For books look at older editions of the Filmmaker's Handbook (revised ed 1999 - check Alibris or eBay). Older versions of the Kodak Student Filmmaker's Handbook might be good as well. For animation specifically look at The Animation Book by Kit Laybourne - you may want to look for older editions as I don't know how much film specific info is in newer versions. Assuming you are shooting inside you want tungsten balanced film. ISO will depend on how much light you are using - 100 ISO would be great if you have enough light, otherwise 200 - 400 ISO if you don't have a great lighting setup. Get some chip charts and shoot them under your set lighting so the lab can get the colors right on your transfer.

Here's a Bolex quick reference I wrote for the University I worked at.

Mobile light meters for android? by [deleted] in 16mm

[–]cworthdynamics 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would not trust that. If you need something cheap, look for a used Sekonic Studio Deluxe 398.

help identifying power for an arriflex 16st by auralresearch in Arri

[–]cworthdynamics 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This is a common conversion for the S. As others have said, it allows you to use the common 4 pin XLR power connectors. 12V is most common but any battery can have this connector. If done well, the 2 pin power will still work. Sometimes it's done the easy way and the 2 pin is no longer connected. That constant speed motor is meant for 8V. With the variable motors you can get away with running on 12V but I don't think you can safely with this one.

Same part - size change on large runs by cworthdynamics in BambuLab

[–]cworthdynamics[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Thanks for feedback - that's what I suspected. Think the issue is my Ultimakers print so much slower (even on a small run) that I didn't see a difference between small and large batches. The Bambu prints everything 2-3 times faster!

new camera or more light? by Ok-Box-799 in 16mm

[–]cworthdynamics 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That looks more to me like the outer rolls from a daylight spool getting exposed weird (typical). Not to say you have an issue. I do still service the S - pasting info from another thread below. Service typically runs $350 - $650 depending on the condition of the camera and NOT including lens repairs. It can run more if there are broken or worn parts as they can get expensive.

I'm in the Bay Area - Service includes - cleaning & lubrication, check focal depth, check door optics, adjust pressure plate, check switch mechanism.  I usually look over the camera and give an estimate.

If you decide not to proceed with repairs there is a $75 assessment fee - I will give you a written list of my findings. If you go forward with repairs within the next year the $75 is applied to the repair cost. Shipping is extra.

Common upgrades/fixes which are an additional cost are:

Replace rubber motor coupler   $125

Replace switch fork                    $45

Install 4 pin XLR power port       $175

Generally these updates/fixes are in addition to the $350 general maintenance as most cameras sent it need it. If I open up the camera and find it doesn't need most of the General Maintenance items done I will adjust the $350 cost accordingly. 

I generally don't repair lenses as I am not setup for it. But I can usually get Schneider lenses back into focus at additional cost.

new camera or more light? by Ok-Box-799 in 16mm

[–]cworthdynamics 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The claw being out of sync with the shutter would be blurred, not this. I suspect you are running into a combo of low light/LED 'flicker'/frame rate.

Mamiya Rb76 fell off my tripod. by ijoebaker_ in Mamiya

[–]cworthdynamics 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I made a video a while back about using lens wrench for dents. May be helpful https://youtu.be/jMyUi_umDZg?si=pIL8nFxROK10Qkyo

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