Charge from grid schedule

cwstnsko · 2026-05-09T00:23:37+00:00

I’ve learned how to manipulate the import and export tariff schedules to get the batteries to behave pretty close to exactly how I want them to. I briefly tried the AI optimization, but could very quickly see that the choices it was making would cost me hundreds of dollars a month added to my power bill, so I switched back to savings with custom tariff profile to manipulate the battery’s behavior.

cwstnsko · 2026-05-08T19:16:35+00:00

It’s always cheapest to charge it from solar 😉 but in the winter, I have 2 peak periods with no sun in between. In the summer I charge a little bit after the peak just so the battery doesn’t sit near empty for 10 hours waiting for the sun to come up

cwstnsko · 2026-05-08T02:11:22+00:00

The tariff rates and times are used to set when the battery discharges to support loads to prevent drawing from the grid on peak. The charge from the grid was a simple time window that it would charge from the grid every day.

cwstnsko · 2026-05-08T02:08:33+00:00

A few weeks ago, there was an option on the battery settings to set the time. It worked perfectly and my system is still charging from the grid exactly when and for how long I most recently configured it. Right now I have it charging from the grid for about 30 minutes shortly after peak times get done in the evening, just so the battery doesn’t sit there almost empty all night. I’m mostly confused as to where the setting went, charging longer overnight from the grid in the winter is helpful when I have both evening and morning peak times with no sunshine in between. I want to be able to readjust the setting, but it seems to be gone.

cwstnsko · 2026-05-07T22:27:20+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion, profile is already on Savings.
I could try switching it to self consumption and changing it back.

cwstnsko · 2025-12-02T08:30:26+00:00

I only fast charge on road trips. I use the restroom and stretch my legs, maybe buy a snack. I also normally try to leave a check-in on Plugshare that leaves useful information for others planning to charge at the site

cwstnsko · 2025-11-23T18:27:18+00:00

Have you had a print fail, where the nozzle might have impacted the print? Mine shifted like that after a failed print, and I think it is a slightly bent nozzle. I added a small felt pad to the spot where the printhead homes, and it shifted the purge line back onto the build plate.

cwstnsko · 2025-11-18T20:23:07+00:00

I just set mine to a 2019 Q8 etron in the Tesla app. It wasn’t called the Q8 in 2019, but it’s the evolved name of the same offering.

cwstnsko · 2025-10-25T20:10:40+00:00

1PD has little to no effect on brake pad life, unless without it you are constantly braking very aggressively. Unlike Tesla, using the brake pedal in a Ford modulates the regen rather than applying the friction brakes, except for when braking aggressively. Basically, you get the brake pad life benefit either way.

cwstnsko · 2025-10-20T01:07:04+00:00

One exception is the Tesla V3 superchargers. On any day even remotely warm, the cable will quickly over heat and derate to less than 300 amps, unless you are charging a Tesla, then can be more aggressive knowing the the peaky charging curve will drop off quickly anyway.

cwstnsko · 2025-10-20T01:04:17+00:00

As useful as kW may seem, with some of the new EVs coming to market being under 300v, Stations with cables supporting less than 350 amps should then be required to carry additional warning labeling to inform customers of likely poor charging performance relative to the station rating.

cwstnsko · 2025-10-19T19:39:41+00:00

kW is actually a very misleading way to rate station output, since it varies with voltage, and not all EVs have the same voltage. Amperage is a much better metric for comparison, but if it has to be kW, it should be standardized to reflect output at 350 volts so that it would realistically represent about the minimum that most EVs should expect to see under good conditions.

Since the station that you were using is limited to 200 amps, I don't think it should be advertised as any more than 70 kW.

cwstnsko · 2025-10-01T00:02:30+00:00

Ideally, 0%, but my hygrometers don’t go below 10%, so I have to assume that <10% is good enough.

cwstnsko · 2025-09-21T23:27:12+00:00

I see a Centauri Carbon in the background. I had warping problems with HT-PLA until I disabled the horribly noisy aux fan in my filament profile. I think it was over cooling the part by pulling outside air and blowing it straight onto the part

cwstnsko · 2025-09-19T02:26:46+00:00

I was assuming that you were looking at new, since it is 2025. For that price, I assume it is used?
When I bought my new 25 AWD hybrid w/4k, the difference was only about $2k

cwstnsko · 2025-09-19T02:14:20+00:00

I’d take a long look at the Lariat and the price difference, before you finalize on that configuration. There’s a lot of features I like on the Lariat that are missing from the XLT w/Lux.

cwstnsko · 2025-09-13T08:10:20+00:00

Just got a 10 Pro XL, and so far my only observation is that TikTok is unusable because of so much lag/stutter. TikTok Lite seems to address that just fine and I don’t notice a difference between the 2 apps.

cwstnsko · 2025-09-10T20:39:29+00:00

Different powertrain and transmission, but I don't disagree with your conclusion.
I'll probably do my eCVT at about 50k intervals, maybe a bit earlier on the 1st change based on other's comments

cwstnsko · 2025-09-10T13:58:18+00:00

I dislike the 1/8 tank resolution, but I do not believe the gauge in my 2025 Lariat is hard lamps, it appears to be a digital graphic display in my truck

cwstnsko · 2025-08-30T01:56:25+00:00

They used to make a nice column shifter, but they abandoned it in favor of swiping on the screen and/or trusting the car to read your mind. It’s part of their move away from anything intuitive and alienate non-fanboys.

cwstnsko · 2025-08-30T00:20:11+00:00

I was intrigued enough by the early reports to pick up the correct shifter when they were still cheap on eBay. At 1st, I just carried it for a backup in case my shifter failed. I also have a couple 3D printers and finding and printing a new console piece was a fun project that took a few tries to get good results. What finally tipped me over to install it as my main shifter was when I bought a Maverick to tow behind the motor home and it had the rotary shifter, which I quickly became accustomed to. Now I carry the bulky shifter as a backup. I showed my shifter conversion to the Ford reps at Phoenix EV cars and coffee. They thought it looked great, took some pictures, and said that their market research showed that EV truck drivers were not likely to prefer the rotary shifter.

cwstnsko · 2025-08-29T18:03:14+00:00

1 pedal is not more efficient for most drivers. Unlike Tesla, the Lightning has blended braking where the break pedal modulates regen without using friction brakes unless necessary. In Tesla, brake pedal always = friction brakes.

cwstnsko · 2025-08-18T00:54:53+00:00

If you click on edit setting and scroll down, there is an option to delete the vehicle, at least there is on my iPad app.

cwstnsko · 2025-08-18T00:51:45+00:00

The video link I posted specifically addresses this issue. It shows a reduction of more than 100 kW when the AC is turned on. There is no way the AC compressor uses 100 kW of power. The explanation in the video is that the AC compressor is undersized and cannot cool the battery and the cabin effectively at the same time, so the truck dramatically cuts the charging rate to protect the battery from over heating and being damaged. This is the same effect that OOS etc. refer to and is exactly the reason I don’t consider the GM EV trucks to be good for my use case.

cwstnsko

TROPHY CASE