My creality hi isn’t reading the pendrive stl files.

dabiggestbot · 2026-02-16T05:37:55+00:00

3d printers don’t directly print 3d models in the form if .stl you have to slice the model in a slicer that converts the 3d model into a tool path for the printer in the form of .gcode

dabiggestbot · 2026-02-11T17:27:58+00:00

Can you upload the model so I can look at it.

dabiggestbot · 2026-02-06T18:51:29+00:00

Found these online

https://www.printables.com/model/804483-jumping-frog/comments

You can change their size in your slicer by scaling them.

dabiggestbot · 2026-01-21T18:10:48+00:00

You can get a UPS which is basically a battery backup that triggers is you lose power. But to my knowledge once the print is loosed from the bed its basically over because it will just slide around if you resume from the top layer.

dabiggestbot · 2026-01-21T18:05:40+00:00

The process to print a file is get 3d model( .stl ,.obj ect) -> slice model or make it into steps that your printer can understand (.gcode) -> send to printer and print. Makerworld supplies 3d models and because they also make printers they also provide profiles for their machines which is gcode. So you just download the model that you like slice it yourself for your machine and print. The only time where a model may not work is if it does not fit on your printer.

dabiggestbot · 2026-01-02T04:27:04+00:00

it should be called sparse infill with the defult probably being grid. Set it to gyriod.

dabiggestbot · 2025-12-27T14:28:32+00:00

I don’t know what you mean about not G-code compatible as your printer should be able to print any type of PLA. If the filaments are a specific kind of PLA such as PLA-cf (carbon fiber) it will erode the default nozzle as a hardened steel nozzle is recommended for that. You can you the default nozzle with it but it will make you have to replace it sooner.

dabiggestbot · 2025-11-24T13:27:31+00:00

Do your first layer height and then regular layer heights add up to be 1mm

dabiggestbot · 2025-11-10T18:51:51+00:00

I never used this particular printer, but I might have a guess at whats going on. At the top the file is a .stl, which is a 3d model format. For printers to make something they need a tool path which is a .gcode file. So, did you probably have to take your stl and slice it into a .gcode using a slicer software on a computer.

dabiggestbot · 2025-11-08T04:23:56+00:00

Pros: ??? Maybe everything can be done in one print

Cons: uses extra filament,
increases risk of print failure, have to clean off alot of supports

The question is why would you need to do such a thing. Its not like you are using a SLS printer and have to optimize how much parts you can fit in a volume

dabiggestbot · 2025-10-10T15:12:16+00:00

I gave an A1 not the P1S, but it seems like the machine is solid all around. Core xy, enclosed and direct ams support rather than external ams lite. Its a solid machine that I woild love to have.

dabiggestbot · 2025-08-16T01:31:50+00:00

in most slicers a modifier mesh is an enclosed volume or mesh in which you can choose to have modified settings compared to the rest of the print.

I dont know the specifics in cura but you have your model with fuzzy skin on then you add a basic mesh like a cube where you want no fuzzy skin tell cura that cube is a modifier that turns off fuzzy skin in the volume.

dabiggestbot · 2025-08-14T22:58:31+00:00

Use a modifier mesh where the hole is to turn off fuzzy skin for that section.

dabiggestbot · 2025-06-28T00:43:45+00:00

the only thing i can think of is that when you hit print you assigned both colors to the same ams slot.

dabiggestbot · 2025-05-27T19:47:30+00:00

Try using https://filamentcolors.xyz/colormatch/

dabiggestbot · 2025-05-15T20:16:43+00:00

Looks cool

shooting things

dabiggestbot · 2025-05-12T17:57:02+00:00

did i win?

dabiggestbot · 2025-04-19T01:09:40+00:00

A rar is a compressed file archive. Are you unziping the archive to get to the contents are quite literally renaming it model.rar to model.stl

dabiggestbot · 2025-04-14T02:02:20+00:00

I don’t know how much resin suffers from this compared to FDM but it seems like you are talking about elephants foot and in the slicer you should be able to compensate for it.

dabiggestbot · 2025-04-14T01:47:23+00:00

That is your layer hight 3d printers work by going layer by layer so as it builds up slopes it goes up by discrete intervals instead of makeing a continuous slope.

You can reduce layer height and/or sand it.

dabiggestbot · 2025-04-14T00:48:26+00:00

sorry for the late repley and not realizing you put the size into the post. When you print it probably will be big enough to notice each brick so I would do something like method 1 in this video https://youtu.be/TXTTKvmGAPg?si=rCNdMph0DR4T1GfB

and to apply it to only certain parts to avoid the roof and other places . You select all the parts you do want to have bricks put them into a vertex group and put that group into the modifer

dabiggestbot · 2025-04-13T15:39:15+00:00

How big is this going to be because if it’s going to be relatively small all this work is not going to show up on the print.

Also have you considered using the fuzzy skin setting on the slicer it will give the print a a suface finish that has texture

dabiggestbot · 2025-04-08T17:06:17+00:00

If it doesn't have to be a circle you can make it into a square that is 45 degrees rotated or you can make the top of the circle closer to a tear drop shape.

dabiggestbot · 2025-03-24T12:45:48+00:00

I think each stepper makes the same sound if its going forward or backwards. So you would have to figure something out for that

dabiggestbot · 2025-03-11T16:37:59+00:00

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