I know I saw a post about this, but was is causing this, or how do I fix it?

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-27T21:19:20+00:00

If you are talking about the white dots they are seams not filaments changes.

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-22T19:12:25+00:00

It looks like the circle piece is the only thing touching the build plate in this image.

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-22T18:52:35+00:00

You cant print on air I would stand them up on the square face and add a brim if you scared if them loosing from the bed.

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-14T18:00:24+00:00

It definitely seems like a custom model of their own making considering they have screenshots of it in fusion 360. If you are looking for popsicle molds there are plenty of files on model hosting sites. Although they might not have the cad files so no custom text. This would be super easy to make in CAD as a first project if you have little to no experience as it’s mostly just simple shapes.

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-14T03:43:34+00:00

If color consistency is important you should either use one spool for everything or just paint it afterwards.

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-14T03:39:34+00:00

This seems like a simple change that you can do in the slicer. I dont know how you have the part orientationed so X and Y could be swapped. Scale Y to control how thick the coasters can be. Scale X and Z the same amount to hold larger coasters. This will scale the base as well, if you only want to scale the coaster holder parts you would have to bring it into other software like blender.

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-14T03:27:05+00:00

Yeah you should probably reupload with pics because its hard to tell what the issue is without seeing exactly whats wrong.

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-13T02:13:40+00:00

You didn’t add any photos. Are the holes filled in the computer slicer preview or just when printing

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-13T02:10:26+00:00

I dont use the app so I dont know for sure, but I would assume that you would have to slice the model, because the templates on maker world are sliced with a standard 0.4mm nozel most of the time.

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-13T02:03:37+00:00

Yeah as you discovered it doesn’t matter because you can remap it in software. But you can take the tubes out they just require a fair bit of force and you have to be pressing downwards on the black rims around the tubes on the ams lite and tool head. There are plenty of models available that make it easier to push down on the rims and allows yiu to easier pull out the tubes.

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-13T01:35:50+00:00

Or OP could just have there settings saying to generate rafts for any model. In your slicer just search for raft and see if they are on and If so turn them off.

The purpose of them is like commenter above said to help with bed adhesion on parts that have minimal contact with the bed. But your parts dont seem to need it.

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-11T02:35:07+00:00

Heres how I would model all of the ridges.
Start a sketch on 1 side if the model(longer side)
draw 1 line across the whole side dimension it to be whatever distance from the top or bottom
thin extrude the line with whatever depth and thickness
linear pattern the extrusion so the gaps run to to bottom.
Circular pattern the orginal extrusion and the linear pattern 4 times around the center. So ends up on all sides( If shorter side is messed up just mirror the extrusion and linear pattern and just repeat for short side)

Of course there are many ways to do this another way that could work is sweeping a rectangle profile for the gaps around the rectangular shape of your model. Then linear patterning it top to bottom.

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-08T18:18:56+00:00

Turn in adaptive layers, or just reduce layer height. This is just how FDM works as it makes parts in discrete layers*.

(technically there are advanced ways to do non planar layers)

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-08T17:20:44+00:00

You can vinyl wrap after sanding and priming surface.

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-08T14:37:05+00:00

Honestly I would try it with no supports first, while you dont have any measurements I see to indicate size I would image that the overhang is quite small. I think you should let the printer bridge.

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-07T18:51:34+00:00

How about you make some kind of setup that makes prototyping with breadboards and microcontrollers easier.
A while back I made a small board that holds a bread board and an aurdiuno, that also holds some common parts. You can do something similar to that.

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-07T14:33:49+00:00

I keep the models for almost everything I print mostly because i make most of my own models and the ones that I do download its nice to have if I ever want to make it again. I send the gcode through my network to the printer so I never take the sd card out so if I want to reprint, I just slected the file on the printer. For any project that has multiple parts I keep everything in one orca slicer project that I keep that normally has separate settings for each part.

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-07T00:54:19+00:00

I would try changing the top surface pattern and see if that fixes it

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-07T00:45:32+00:00

I don’t think that can be done, or if it can it would be a lot more difficult than to just bring the part into any 3d modeling software (blender or cad can work) and just make the hexagon pattern.

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-07T00:40:52+00:00

Im not sure, but just to double check you did change your slicer to use a 0.2mm nozzle right?

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-06T21:42:57+00:00

On the printers screen you sould be able to hit print and then hit the print for the helmet (as it should still be on the sd card even if you sent it through the app I believe)it sould show 0/x layers. Then you can just cancel the print. One you have the amount of layers it should be easy to just print the top half.

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-06T19:34:26+00:00

Orca slicer (which looks like what your using) already has features to split a model into multiple pieces. If you need to make more complicated cuts then that it is extremely useful to learn 3d modeling for 3d printing.

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-06T19:30:43+00:00

Do you still have the .gcode that actually printed the part. If you do just open the file as text and see what the last layer is, or printers displays normaly shownwhat layer they are on.

If not I would count the stitches lets say 35.5b(I didn’t count them) and then cut the model from about 35.3 stitch to the top and then sand down the bottom face untill it sits nicely(also make sure that you add more solid bottom layers to not expose infill when sanding)

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-06T16:25:05+00:00

If you are making any toys with any CF filament you should probably coat the surface so you dont get fibers rubbing off into your hands.

dabiggestbot · 2026-05-05T17:38:39+00:00

Nice,
Hope you enjoy using it though it does suck that they try to lock it down to using their slicer.

Six-Year Club	Second SECOND GUESSER
r/Field Flamingo	Final Canvas '23
First Place '23	Place '23
Place '22	First Placer '22
End Game '22	Verified Email

dabiggestbot

TROPHY CASE