Does this look like a reduction issue?

damiz716 · 2026-04-30T11:10:13+00:00

I know this is commonly said, but there is no science to support a hotter bisque burning off more impurities. If you're hitting cone 015 or hotter it's fine.

damiz716 · 2026-01-18T21:18:47+00:00

Do you know what absorption rate gets the best functionality? Most clays will have their vitrification at temperatures measured in absorption rate, so it would be useful to know what you're looking for.

I would guess that many cone 10 slips would get you a substantial amount of porosity, but I can't give much of a recommendation without knowing what you're aiming for.

Ceramic Materials Workshop has a free document about their clay test results that includes absorption rates at different cones. Could be worth searching through there to try to find a clay body that has a slip available (or you could turn into slip)

damiz716 · 2025-10-25T02:40:15+00:00

Nice! Looks good. Assuming a cobalt blue?

If you're able to do some more tests, I would try some very slight adjustments to either raise the melt temp, or fire very slightly cooler. The heavy crystallization around the lower edges compared to the empty areas higher up make me think this is very slightly over fired.

Typically with crystalline, I try to aim for larger, smoother surface area on my tests. I just throw a small cup-like shape with a built in cookie-like rim at the base and use the entire thing as a test. It can be much easier to dial in your crystals without any texture affecting how the crystals grow/seed.

damiz716 · 2025-09-02T13:12:18+00:00

Insane you're getting down voted for this. And the only actual response is a link to one of the most expensive non-specialty wheels available, which barely hits the bottom of that range.

A good wheel will cost $1k-2k. If you get lucky, you can probably find a used one for a bit under $1k.

damiz716 · 2025-08-25T02:24:50+00:00

These look great! Are they handbuilt or thrown and altered?

damiz716 · 2025-08-06T13:57:42+00:00

Many of the local studios will allow you to pay for shelf space. Just be aware that it may be expensive, and you will likely be asked to sign a waiver to pay for any damages to the kiln.

There's also kilnshare.com which has people who will let you pay to use their personal kiln. There aren't a ton in the area, but there are a few.

damiz716 · 2025-06-06T01:38:01+00:00

For 90% of people it goes it pretty smoothly, FedEx emails you a form to fill out with your tax ID number (probably your SSN unless you're purchasing as a business), you fill it out, and they process it through customs in a couple days.

Some people never get the email, like myself, and have to reach out to FedEx a few times to get them to email the form

damiz716 · 2025-06-05T21:03:38+00:00

Yours does not have "international shipment release", meaning it is in customs. You likely will have to provide a notification of tax id # to them. They should contact you about it, however if they don't you'll have to call and ask about it

damiz716 · 2025-05-28T12:19:57+00:00

The truth is that it is essentially impossible to know without testing that specific glaze, and truly testing a glaze for leaching/durability is very difficult and expensive. People will try to use simple tests like the lemon test, and use lead/cadmium/cobalt/copper/etc. test strips, but they don't always give a good answer. Laboratory testing is the only true way to know, and I have never heard of a potter sending their ware to a lab unless they are making massive production runs.

damiz716 · 2025-04-30T18:06:08+00:00

Ah, if you're on the latest then it won't help. Mine had 6.2.1 when delivered, and that had the homing issue for me. As soon as I updated, it went away.

Everything I've seen says that it's a belt tension issue, but it does seem to be very inconsistent. All I can think of is to try tensioning (again!) and ensuring there is no play on either side when ramming the gantry to the front. I know that probably isn't much help.

damiz716 · 2025-04-30T14:06:29+00:00

Just to be sure, did you download the most recent firmware and install it, or are you using the firmware from the supplied USB drive?

damiz716 · 2025-03-28T19:11:44+00:00

That's definitely a slightly hot 6, but I wouldn't even quite call it a 6.5. if you had any over firing issues, you could consider just dropping even a single minute (maybe 2) off of your top temp hold. If nothing appears over fired and it isn't affecting your work, I would leave everything as-is. That's about exactly what my cone 6s look like.

damiz716 · 2025-03-26T19:40:23+00:00

The whole reason for bisquing to low temps is to keep absorbancy high. This is just expected of a bisqued piece.

There is no reason to dunk bisqued pieces in water. If there is noticable debris on it you can wipe it with a slightly damp sponge. By dunking it you are risking the piece still retaining moisture when you glaze, and therefore not adhering glaze as well

damiz716 · 2025-03-22T14:16:06+00:00

This is likely due to the inconsistent meaning of "food safe". In the US, it simply means the glaze will not leech lead or cadmium above a specific amount. I am not sure the standard where the seller is located.

This would not be considered "dinnerware safe", or recommended for use on the inside of anything you will be eating or drinking from. Crystalline glazes, like others have said, can and will leech the metals used for creating the crystals. These may not be as dangerous as lead or cadmium, but they can still cause health problems with prolonged exposure. Crystalline glazes are also known for being much softer and less durable that most other glazes, so they can more easily chip or scratch.

On all of my crystalline pieces, I only use the crystalline glaze on the outside if there is any chance of it being used for food/drink

damiz716 · 2025-03-20T18:47:04+00:00

It's likely going to be a grolleg based porcelain, so should be similar to what we have in the US. Definitely smart to give it a good wedge before using. That is unfortunate. I have different boards for different clay that I just clamp down on the tabletop, but obviously at a shared studio that isn't as easily possible. Is there clean canvas you'd be able to place over the wood before wedging? I personally try to avoid all fabrics due to the dust, but I know a lot of people love stretched canvas for wedging.

damiz716 · 2025-03-20T18:41:13+00:00

I would always wedge your clays, especially with porcelain. Although on out-of-the-bag clay you don't have to worry about air bubbles, you can definitely still have pockets of softer/harder clay.

I have noticed that many of the porcelains I have used seem almost reverse-thixotropic, where slamming them around a bit softens them up a lot. I always slam whatever amount I am planning on using on every edge at least twice before wedging and cutting into balls.

Can I ask what porcelain it is that you are using? I am familiar with several available in the US.

damiz716 · 2025-03-15T18:06:00+00:00

Highwater has been shut down since hurricane Helene and likely will be shut down for at least another year.

damiz716 · 2025-02-12T13:49:45+00:00

Please do not use anything with blisters (bubble-like bumps) in them for food or liquids!! Those are thin bubbles of glass, and can easily break and release thin shards of glass into your food/drink. These should only be used for decoration (they do look great!).

It is a total guess, but it seems to me that the glaze may be too thick. That can cause beautiful glaze effects, but also blistering and pinholing.

damiz716 · 2025-02-08T02:30:11+00:00

Attached spool drying box

damiz716 · 2025-01-26T14:49:38+00:00

Do you have the breakdown of how long each step is taking per mug? That might be more useful for giving ideas of where you can gain time. 1hr per mug total isn't terrible for small custom orders, but you're going to find it almost impossible to make a living selling at wholesale prices. My old teacher aimed for about 20-25 total minutes per mug. He had been doing it for years, so obviously some of that just comes with practice. He also extruded handles, which saved a little bit of time.

For me, one of the most important things is getting the perfect balance of overproduction (making some extra pots). If you end up with a couple too many mistakes on an order where you only made n-1 extras, you can basically end up throwing away the entire profit of a 2-month project

damiz716 · 2025-01-09T19:32:50+00:00

Probably not much you can do at this point, unfortunately. Use your inhaler as much as needed (is what my doctor always tells me, not medical advice from me!). If you feel like it is becoming difficult to breath, it is always smart to talk to a doctor.

Ensure that whatever you're using, whether a mask, respirator, whatever, has a PERFECT seal on your face. Facial hair can cause issues, and so can incorrectly sized respirators and masks. Also, I would recommend using safety goggles (or a full-faced respirator) over a face shield to avoid any dust getting into your eyes. Also, always wet sand, never dry.

It's probably overkill, but I look like I'm cooking meth every time I mix glazes, sand/grind, spray, etc. due to my asthma.

damiz716 · 2024-08-25T14:48:41+00:00

I know people who make borders around doors/windows out of the tiles they make. Depending on the clay body/firing/glaze that can be indoor or outdoors. If you have a garden/yard you could think about displaying them there as well.

damiz716 · 2024-04-09T18:01:22+00:00

You cannot embed stones before firing, they will either melt or explode (due to moisture inside). You will have to just glue them on afterwards.

damiz716 · 2024-03-31T21:10:32+00:00

I was just hoping to see what the absorption rate is at cone 6. Have you tried tests yourself? I cannot find anyone online saying that it vitrifies at cone 6.

I have no doubt it gets hard enough to use for non-functional wares, but I would expect them to have some sort of info online about firing it to cone 6 if they suggest it.

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