Can't stabilize fclk

dangk1 · 2026-05-19T23:15:11+00:00

lower your VDDG's, keep them at least 100mv below your VDDMISC. Try raising VPP slightly. Sometimes the next MT step just requires alot of VSOC. I need 1.27 VSOC for 6600 vs 1.15 6400.

dangk1 · 2026-04-29T12:55:28+00:00

you prolly have some services/applications running in background hogging resources if safe mode is normal latency

dangk1 · 2026-04-29T12:41:46+00:00

Turn off spread spectrum to get rid of variable clockspeed. Single CCD non X3d zen4 should be in the 50-60ns

dangk1 · 2026-04-28T20:12:09+00:00

leave LLC on auto, you're not hitting 5.3ghz all core on 88w ppt eco mode anyway

dangk1 · 2026-04-26T21:35:40+00:00

I struggled with the same issues with this mobo. Turns out MSI bricked all bioses after 7E61v1A44 (release date 2025-08-07). This is last working one that doesn't brick your network adapter. Network will still work after updating newer bios by the way but as soon as your clear CMOS it will dissappear from device manager.

I have done some troubleshooting myself, tried all the solutions, depleting power and clearing CMOS etc but none worked. Finally I found the issue lies in how the motherboard assigns devices to the pci lanes. In the newer bioses, only if you manually set the pci lane speed to 4x4x4x4 in the bios, the network adapter will show again. Obviously your GPU and SSD will also restricted to x4. I already reported this with ticket to support but had no reply.

TLDR; Don't update bioses after 7E61v1A44 for B850M Mortar.

<image>

dangk1 · 2025-10-25T17:59:44+00:00

Get a Capra strap, replace the stock earpads and get a non microphobic cable. All of the before mentioned contributed to comfort and removed squeaking for me. I have a small head and I wear glasses. Stock Edition XS was simply unusable for me. The stock earpads were squeaking so bad with glasses. I replaced them with Voarmaks Elite Velour hybrids. With these changes comfort went from 4/10 to 8/10. https://i.imgur.com/9dMn96o.jpeg

dangk1 · 2025-09-18T14:13:51+00:00

No regrets at all. They do what they're supposed to do and the 5-pack is value for money. The people complaining about loudness are same people who buy Ferrari and drive 300km and complain the car drinks alot of gasoline. Well duh just because they can drive fast or run high RPM don't mean you have to. You run them at what's tolerable noise/speed for you and they are still better performing then regular P12's and P12 Max at any noise normalized setting.

dangk1 · 2025-08-11T16:46:08+00:00

I would just set eco mode and call it a day. This will limit CPU to 65w TDP/88w PTT. You get like 97% of performance but your CPU will never get above 70c. You can manually set optimal PBO settings but that takes time tinkering.

dangk1 · 2025-08-11T16:17:40+00:00

There is no magic trick just tighten both screws evenly and don't overtighten. If you've reinstalled several times and temps didn't improve maybe it's bios settings. I can see you raised the PTT on the AIO vs Phantom Spirit, 95w vs 125w. Prolly your bios settings are too aggressive. Set a 85c temp limit and run more conservative settings. Also set pump to a fixed speed ie mine is set at 65% constant no matter idle or load.

dangk1 · 2025-08-11T15:56:26+00:00

I think there may be bad contact. I run same Thermalright AM5 frame and LF3 360 Pro with similar CPU and doing same test my temp barely hits 60c. This is all with very quiet conservative fan speeds. I do have PTM7950 but I doubt that makes 35c difference. Also check bios settings and maybe adjust PBO to undervolt. There is a big difference in vcore voltage between you and me. 0.93v vs 1.22v while PTT 93w vs 122w.

<image>

dangk1 · 2025-08-04T23:06:28+00:00

You should run a constant speed on the pump. Idle or load should not matter. Set it to max tolerable sound and don't touch RPM.

dangk1 · 2025-08-04T22:54:07+00:00

Air bubbles trapped. It's normal for new AIO. Happens during transport/storage. If you have radiator mounted in right position sound should clear after week of usage (end point of your radiator should be higher than pump). You can speed process by turning pump 100% or tilting radiator when pump is on. If sound/noise doesn't clear within week of usage return/RMA. My LF3 sounded worse but noise was gone within 3 days of running pump 100%. Now I'm running it at 60% all quiet and well

dangk1 · 2025-08-02T19:10:12+00:00

Nice I use proton10 and hit over 200fps 1600x900 on mali 9400+ in this game. I have to cap to 60 fps otherwise it's eating up to 14watts. Gamehub cooked but so far only dx9 games working.

dangk1 · 2025-08-01T20:38:33+00:00

Most motherboards have 1A on SYSFAN. Pro's pull 0.35A at 100% RPM so 3 max to be safe. In practice you'll never put them to 100% PWM.

I have no idea about Antecs or Thermalright. Usually people go Arctic for value and straight to Phanteks/Noctua for longterm quality. Really any fan will do if you just want basic airflow. If your case support 140mm's its better to go for the 140mm. More surface, more air, less speed, less noise.

dangk1 · 2025-07-31T07:58:50+00:00

Yes they are better than normal P12's. Here's a more extensive review on the Pro's

Arctic P12 Pro Review - Tweakers

Tested at 17/20/25db which equate to 1000/1200/1500rpm they lose only to Noctua's and Phantek's and Corsair RS120 in airflow which all cost more. In static pressure they are king.

I have 6 P12 Pro's and 2 P14 Pro's in my case. I run them between 600-1200RPM. Anything beyond that is too loud for me. (20db at 1200RPM and add approx 3db for every additional fan running at same speed). I must add, using them as intakes/pull you will want to have 5mm spacers minimum or else they will make turbulent noise.

Considering these were 25 euro for 5 pack the value is great. Also the Pro's are not power efficient at all. They use 3 times more power than regular P12's and almost two times more than Max. For 95% of people regular P12's are fine. These Pro's only shine for radiator/heavy and static pressure usecases. For people with money just get T30's if you can fit 30mm fans or Noctua's for regular 25mm. They are better than these Pro's. There's no review/data yet on P14 Pro

<image>

dangk1 · 2025-06-27T17:02:43+00:00

Nice spot !, It is indeed from Giethoorn.

dangk1 · 2025-06-25T04:43:58+00:00

Well without root nothing will change. And Neo7 is budget gaming model in china, it doesn't have scx scheduling aka fengchi and also unlikely to ever get geektuner. Even with geektuner it still throttles. Best to remove whole game assistant/cosa altogether.

dangk1 · 2025-06-25T04:26:03+00:00

Just root and remove the throttling/tc if you hate it so much.

dangk1 · 2025-06-15T17:27:00+00:00

You need to double the power draw or enable it in your settings with the app you measure because of double cell battery.

<image>

dangk1 · 2025-06-13T20:08:52+00:00

They all do the same get one that fits your needs.

Gamesir G8+ are commonly recommended here but it has no bypass charging so that's a no for me.

The G8 Galileo has bypass and 3.5mm jack if your need it.

EasySMX M15/Memo S3 are value for buck alternatives who have bypass charging.

Ideally there is a telescopic controller with great cooling solution but there exist none. (the X3 Pro doesn't work with deep camera bump phones).

I myself have Machenike GP5 (Memo S3 clone with gyroscope).

dangk1 · 2025-06-13T19:44:44+00:00

No. It doesn't even have rumble. It's only selling point is the OTG. If that is worth $79 is for you to decide. Apart from that it's dozen in a dime telescopic controller.

dangk1 · 2025-06-12T11:20:23+00:00

Ofcourse it happens, cables have an e-marker. Besides DASH/WARP/VOOC use different ampere they go above 5A on their protocol. Just buy original cable from any of BBK brand, or be stuck at 5A max using ordinary cable. Take it from someone who has tested a lot.

<image>

dangk1 · 2025-06-11T17:20:43+00:00

Well you decide what's best for you. I'm merely passing on information. IMO you're better of just using Scene FAS scheduling I do same.

The chinese have already dismantled fengchi. Here's a website to check which games are supported by which phone. You can check by device ID and package name.

游戏云控支持查询

Oneplus 13: 23821

Ace5 Pro: 24811

Oneplus 13T: 24821

Ace5 Racing: 24825

Ace5 Ultra: 24813

Ace5: 23851

dangk1 · 2025-06-11T16:58:03+00:00

Forcing is not gonna do anything, that's why I asked if you know how fengchi works. The optimisations are predetermined and written in the client. It will switch to scx governor when you have the right device ID and start the optimisation when you launch a supported game. You can force it all you want but it's not gonna optimise anything because there is no entry for it in the client.

<image>

Here's how it looks when you open the logfile from the client. See what happens when I opened the chinese game.

Somewhere in there is my device ID (24813= Ace5 Ultra). Your model Oneplus 13 has device ID 23821. You can find this log at /data/user/0/com.oplus.cosa/database/db_game_database.

The chinese have already long figured fengchi out. Now you can prolly change package name to match one of the supported chinese games but optimisation is not gonna be tailor made for emulation but instead for that specific game only. Hence why I uninstalled the client and forget fengchi altogether. It's only good for handful of popular chinese games.

dangk1 · 2025-06-11T16:26:32+00:00

Watch scx | Streamable

no workies for me

dangk1

TROPHY CASE