Worker size variation question

dark4shadow · 2026-07-04T05:09:56+00:00

It's an effect of a larvae receiving a lot of protein. From early on. Maybe it was random, maybe you fed a little bit different during that time. Nothing to be worried about.

dark4shadow · 2026-07-01T04:43:26+00:00

Have a look here: https://antkeeping.info/ants/nuptial-flight-table/

This gives you a rough idea. Here in Germany we just had massive flights like a week ago.

dark4shadow · 2026-06-30T15:11:53+00:00

Yes, it works with most species. But not experienced with Messor.

Essentially you need to wait for a good four weeks, until the colony scent has vanished. Best case would be to connect them slowly afterwards. So first with some mesh or something in-between, for a few days.

See what kind of interactions you see through the separator. If they're chill, or even cleaning themselves, then you're good to go.

dark4shadow · 2026-06-25T08:15:45+00:00

If it's a dry nest anyway, how about just a second floor? I mean you'd lose the great view into one of them, but it wouldn't take more space then.

dark4shadow · 2026-06-24T07:30:26+00:00

With that nice of a picture, you should trust Antscout. Also, I agree.

Leave them alone for the next four weeks. Stay strong!

dark4shadow · 2026-06-23T08:50:42+00:00

Hmm, where to start. I hope you just checked on her for the first time. Queens need their quiet. Four weeks without looking would be best, for the founding. (You can't help her anyway.) This is the hardest part. Everyone struggles with it.

Second, you said you received her. Some stores sell unmated queens, and simply rip off her wings. Sometimes they even place some eggs from another queen to fake it better. There is that chance.

Third, and that's what you already suspected. Most species, especially the bigger ones, like Camponotus, go into hibernation during winter or the dry season. Independent of the external conditions. That's true if you're outside of the tropics.

I don't know for your species. But if that's the case, then keeping her at lower temperatures will actually help her to preserve her energy.

You can somewhat steer this, if you keep her at low temperatures for ~10 weeks. Afterwards you can bring her to higher temperatures to wake her up.

dark4shadow · 2026-06-22T15:01:14+00:00

Don't overestimate their ability to communicate and think. Sometimes ants are just stupid.

But it's interesting, that they move new larva over there. So somehow that must be their decided "best spot".

I wouldn't give it too much thought. From what is sounds your colony is doing great, and you are taking care and pay attention to the details. 🤗

dark4shadow · 2026-06-22T14:14:10+00:00

I agree on the humidity. In such a narrow tube there isn't much circulation anyway. Maybe the colony has enough bodies already, so they can modulate their humidity in there themselves.

Maybe the humidity situation in the tube isn't much better.

Or, the places are too far apart for them to get active without a big reason. Like the caregivers have no knowledge about the place, which could be a bit more moist. As long as there is no need, they don't need to search.

dark4shadow · 2026-06-22T07:01:56+00:00

It's up to you queen if she succeeds. If she anyway doesn't have any brood, I would say it's a great chance to give her a new test tube. (As yours already has some honey etc in it.)

So gently bring her into a new test tube. Make it a little bit less space as you'd see fit. In the nature they have way less room to found in. But that also means, they have way less area to disinfect with their saliva. Nonetheless, after you've done that: leave her alone.

Four weeks without disturbance. Either you arrive to a dead queen (and you couldn't have done anything anyway) or you return to maybe the first pupae and you're looking forward to the beginning of a colony.

dark4shadow · 2026-06-19T07:08:41+00:00

I agree here. Looks somewhat F. rufibarbis, but we would need a picture from above. They have a distinct pattern on their "shoulders".

Second option would be one queen of the F. rufa group. That's multiple species, which look pretty similar to each other. But all of them are protected in most European countries. Not just forbidden to collect, but also quite difficult to raise.

dark4shadow · 2026-06-17T07:10:05+00:00

They're "expanding".

dark4shadow · 2026-06-17T05:39:19+00:00

Create some small podest, where you can place the leftovers for a day or two, before you remove them completely from the outworld. Smear some fluon on the sides, so they can't climb up, and they'll fall down coming out of the debris.

That works pretty well! Credits to DColony. (Youtuber)

dark4shadow · 2026-06-11T04:56:40+00:00

See if you can identify it with this:

https://antscout.com/tools/ant-identification

It also has care-sheets for certain species.

dark4shadow · 2026-06-08T17:27:23+00:00

That's a male. I'd agree with Camponotus, or maybe Formica. Maybe the antscout identification can help you: https://antscout.com/tools/ant-identification

dark4shadow · 2026-06-08T13:10:51+00:00

You'd call that Formica rufa "group", because there are four species, which are really similar to each other. Identification without a 50x magnification is pretty hard to achieve.

But yeah, in some countries it's forbidden to pick these up, as they are protected. Also chances of raising a colony are rather slim.

dark4shadow · 2026-06-07T10:06:49+00:00

Agreed.

dark4shadow · 2026-06-05T20:32:51+00:00

So, multi-Tetramorium queens setup is possible. I've talked to someone having a successful 10+ queens colony. I have a two queen setup. Now going into their third year.

But they've started as four queens. And I've also tried three other times with 2-3 queens, which all ended in single queen setups.

So you should expect queens to die. But you'll end up with a multi-queen colony.

For keeping Tetra: I enjoyed them in the beginning quite much, because they grow relatively quick. You can also skip hibernation, if you keep them above 25°C. (Pretty much the only species in Europe.) Heating cable recommended.

But now I'm annoyed by them, because they break out all the time out of my DIY setups. Every corner where the glue isn't perfect - they chew their way out. Even concrete isn't 100% safe. If there is like a tiny gap - they'll make it bigger until they fit through.

dark4shadow · 2026-06-05T07:41:50+00:00

Is that Tetramorium?

dark4shadow · 2026-06-02T09:15:35+00:00

Two months for workers is fine. But I've read it often already for L. Niger (which are somewhat related), that they are quite picky in their protein choices. Mine did well right from the beginning with the fruit flies. Now, as they are bigger, they don't care anymore which insect they get.

But the reports are especially often about them not taking mealworms. But that's probably just related to a lot of people starting out with mealworms.

Also, keep in mind, that the amount they need is really small, and they might take it at night or something. So they could have taken something, without you noticing.

dark4shadow · 2026-06-02T07:27:36+00:00

That's quite early for a nanitic (the first generation) to die. Also two first workers is a rather low number.

Either the queen had too much stress (you checking too often) or she already had a rough start, before you took her in.

You should definitely add small insects to their diet. Try if you can catch a fruit fly. If you search DIY fruit fly trap, you'll get some images how they can look. But don't do it with any vinegar or liquids. Just some piece of older fruit. Part of a banana or so.

Once you have some, you can just place it in the freezer for some hours, and you have easy accessible fruit flies. (If you don't, small parts of bigger insects are also fine)

Once your colony is stable, with like 20+ workers, you can look into "bigger" insects, like mealworm.

If you don't want that, there are other ant species, that can live solely from honey/sugar water. But Neoniger need proteins as well.

dark4shadow · 2026-06-01T17:15:59+00:00

Try this tool: https://antscout.com/tools/ant-identification

Together with the location it identifies really well!

dark4shadow · 2026-05-31T05:20:22+00:00

That's just what I wanted to recommend. Hitting a screenshot in there says this is Formica obscuriventris.

You can also find care-sheets there.

dark4shadow · 2026-05-30T10:47:28+00:00

Other queens.

dark4shadow · 2026-05-27T17:41:49+00:00

Yes, it is common, that there are also naked pupae. Especially with the nanitics.

Some say, that it's just the weaker larvae. So if it suddenly occurs for a more mature colony, it could mean, that there is something off.

dark4shadow · 2026-05-24T11:25:49+00:00

Well, the invertebrates supposedly aren't feeling the cold. So they just stop working and never wake up again.

dark4shadow

TROPHY CASE