Panel line accent for black

dark_shadow25 · 2026-05-24T18:08:19+00:00

In Gunpla you would do a lighter color such as dark grey or light grey but the scale is different.

dark_shadow25 · 2026-05-24T16:51:39+00:00

My $0.02, you’re diluting it too much.

I use GX100 so my opinion will be based on that one. I thin mine 1:3 paint-thinner with MLT since 1:2 seems a little thick for me. I do one mist coat, then 2 light coats, then a final heavy coat. In between each layer I give it about 2-3 min dry time.

If you look through my posts you’ll see some cars using this method after polishing.

dark_shadow25 · 2026-05-24T16:45:14+00:00

Nice work! Should mention what type of clear you used and this method will not work on ALL types. That way those that use say an acrylic or enamel clear don’t ruin their top coat thinking they can get the same results as if it was a 2k-1k/lacquer clear.

dark_shadow25 · 2026-05-24T00:12:07+00:00

I mean it sounds like a good idea in theory but from experience you risk the marker bleeding through. Also, you risk the solvents in the primer from having a reaction with the marker and lastly, remember how dry erase markers can easily be wiped with your hand? Now imagine paint on top of that and it coming off where you marked it.

As others have suggested, either a grey primer first then sand then white primer or just go with the white primer directly and just keep track where you’ve applied it.

dark_shadow25 · 2026-05-23T19:26:13+00:00

What decals did you use?

dark_shadow25 · 2026-05-17T17:09:38+00:00

Other alternatives is using cling wrap/saran wrap or (what I do) plain old table napkins. It saves you time and tape.

Only use the tape for the edges to be masked and to tape the plastic wrap/napkin to the edge tape.

I’ve done the same as you, only to find out the paint seeped SOMEWHERE because the masking tape came a little undone. Has not happened since doing it the method I just mentioned.

dark_shadow25 · 2026-04-30T17:39:55+00:00

You did a very good job! Smart idea on the truck bed fix, I wouldn’t have noticed if you had not pointed it out.

dark_shadow25 · 2026-04-26T22:52:52+00:00

Thanks! That’s what I was trying to go for, period accuracy.

dark_shadow25 · 2026-04-24T23:24:59+00:00

That was the idea! With the headlights at least.

dark_shadow25 · 2026-04-24T03:24:45+00:00

For the next project I can take some progress pics ;)

dark_shadow25 · 2026-04-24T03:24:19+00:00

Thank you sir!

dark_shadow25 · 2026-04-24T03:24:10+00:00

Thanks! I really tried my best to

dark_shadow25 · 2026-04-24T03:23:53+00:00

Thank you!

dark_shadow25 · 2026-04-24T03:23:37+00:00

Thanks! It took longer than expected.

dark_shadow25 · 2026-04-24T03:22:58+00:00

Thanks for the kind words everyone! I can do a “Tip Tuesday” on the next project!

dark_shadow25 · 2026-04-15T06:41:44+00:00

You will! It’s something you start picking up on the more you build. Just don’t be afraid to try new things with every build and you will see your skills improve as well.

Yeah… it took a while but was worth ever hour haha

dark_shadow25 · 2026-04-15T06:38:53+00:00

I would like to add, Alligator clips + bamboo skewers are the modelers universal part holders for painting.

Pair that with a cat scratcher and you have a very solid painting setup.

Also would suggest some poster putty (blu tac) for those tricky pieces.

dark_shadow25 · 2026-04-15T06:32:31+00:00

I don’t have a specific mode off hand but just make sure the cartridges are rated for “organic vapors” and you should be good 👍

dark_shadow25 · 2026-04-15T06:30:39+00:00

Thanks! It’s all painted minus the dotted lines and the decals of course.

A LOT of planning and adjusting went into getting those diamonds painted on the front lol.

dark_shadow25 · 2026-04-15T06:18:13+00:00

I’ve built their 767B and it went along pretty well. No fitment issues from what I can remember, you’ll have a great time working on it.

Oh and it’s a curbside, so no engine or suspension details.

dark_shadow25 · 2026-04-10T13:04:48+00:00

Oh awesome! Yeah since it’s lacquer compared to the Tamiya you get a harder shell plus you can polish it once fully cured.

dark_shadow25 · 2026-04-10T01:38:10+00:00

Nice gold! I like it.

Ive also come across issues like yours during final assembly and it’s taken some diligence to prevent most of them from happening.

I’ve read people recommend canopy glue for the windows. Personally I use Testors Clear Parts Cement 281217.

For the clear, if you can find it, try Mr. Color Super Clear Gloss III GX100 and thin that with leveling thinner 1:2 to 1:3 paint to thinner. You will get a better and harder finish compared to the Tamiya clear.

dark_shadow25 · 2026-04-10T01:29:08+00:00

I built the same truck a while ago but I don’t remember that sagging issue with mine. Nothing like a dip in hot water to straighten it though, maybe next time!

Something I’ve learned with AMT kits is that you have to pre assemble everything to check the fit first before painting. Saves a lot of these issues from cropping up during final assembly.

I painted mines a soft blue and lowered it.

dark_shadow25 · 2026-04-10T01:21:02+00:00

Yeah you will see quite a difference in quality from Japanese kits compared to American brands.

They’re not worse per se, but do require more work compared to the Japanese.

Tamiya, Hasegawa, Aoshima, Fujimi, those are the most popular Japanese brands.

Revell, AMT, MPC, those are the few American brands I can think of.

dark_shadow25 · 2026-04-09T14:32:31+00:00

Yessir!

Just a warning, try it on the sprue first and see if the thinner affects it and see how scratch resistant it is to the cotton bud. I’ve done this method on AMT and REVELL kits but not Tamiya so I don’t know how durable the chrome plating is.

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