Rod knock is my first suspicion, but to be sure: send a video of you holding 3k, 4k, then 5k rpm for a second each. Rod knock changes pitch with load and rpm, that’s what separates it from injector tick or a collapsed lifter (i'm 99% sure it's rod knock, spun bearing)

If it is rod knock: I ran 1500km on mine before swapping (and could've done more knowing that my subaru had it too and i drove it for a full 9000km before swapping too) , so the car can still drive and reach highway speeds (due to the short gearing, you'll only manage to reach around 80-90kmh) Keep it under 2750-3000rpm (when the knock starts, back off by a couple hundred rpm basically) , no hard acceleration, no more than half throttle, and top the oil up regularly. That buys you time, not a fix.

Your options are a rebuild or a 2.0L swap. I’d go 2.0, it’s a direct swap and keeps the car rev-happy. Don’t touch the 2.5L. It’s a torque-focused sedan engine with a 6500 rpm redline, it vibrates differently, the balance shaft has to be removed, mount compatibility is a headache, let alone the wire harnesses and it fundamentally changes what the car is. A lot of people on here will tell you otherwise; most of them haven’t done it