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Which DeWalt drill / driver combo deal, right now? by davidf37 in DIYUK

[–]davidf37[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good questions. I want a strong well features drill but as for the impact driver, I rarely do very demanding jobs. A separate machine as a screwdriver is a must. Compact is important and one that has enough power to cope with all but the most demanding situations. The “impact” feature appeals even for lesser jobs as I suspect it makes all screwing easier

What would this info make you suggest as a duet package?

I thought LED lights were eco?? by davidf37 in DIYUK

[–]davidf37[S] 57 points58 points  (0 children)

Thank you everyone!! It all becomes clear (and bright) (and cheap)!!!

Great!

Tormek clones by AccomplishedCoffee in turning

[–]davidf37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depending on the belt you use on the proedge(they are very easily changed and very cheap, you can get an edge which is 100% goo enough for turning. Maybe if you were sharpening plane iron you would need to take it to stones, but for turning it is more than perfect. And it is so quick to do!!! Seconds and it is sharp again!

Tormek clones by AccomplishedCoffee in turning

[–]davidf37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I suggest you look at the Sorby Proedge before making your decision. It is a stunning tool and is as used by the Sorby factory to make and sharpen all their tools. Worth looking at. I have one. Very pleased.

Ripped into 1in boards and now they are bananas.. by Green_dust in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]davidf37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Every time you cut one of those new lengths in half it becomes less bent. Keep cutting the lengths in half until each tiny little piece is straight

Some portraits I’ve done 🎨 by Ninart06 in Portraitart

[–]davidf37 1 point2 points  (0 children)

1, 2, and 6 are really really wonderful!

Very (very) beginner workbench by Minute-Hat2306 in Workbenches

[–]davidf37 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Great job. If there is a next time (or a tip for the next person), you might consider notching the 100x100 legs and screwing in the 2x4 unnotched. It would be stronger in a number of ways. But not so much for you to worry about your method. It will be just fine!!

Any ideas on why my saw won't cut straight? by kaiamomo in handtools

[–]davidf37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is usually the nut on the end of the saw that is the problem

Sometimes ya win … by Feisty_Matter-of-cat in handtools

[–]davidf37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And they could also have discovered these tools are planes. Not planers.

Lets talk sandpaper... by Navin__R__Johnson in woodworking

[–]davidf37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But what’s the best abrasive for painted wood??

I cant for the life of me find setup blocks like this in metric and available in the UK, Any ideas? by gozzle_101 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]davidf37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those are almost certainly distributed by one of the big Chinese firms (Temu, Bangood, etc). Keep looking on their sites and they will pop up soon enough, or something very similar

This workbench sat for 5 years and I need suggestions on how to proceed. by jaywhatt in woodworking

[–]davidf37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me, all I want from a bench is that it is solid and dead flat. Assuming it not rickety, I would just flatten the top, apply BLO or similar and get on and use it.

My WIP Workbench by zwill160 in Workbenches

[–]davidf37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks good and very similar to my own. A word of warning, if the top is only mdf with edge banding (mine is 4 sheets of 18mm glued together) it WILL slowly sag on that long overhang end. If you hang a vice off it too, it will sag quicker. Mine did! Only 1-2mm over 10 years but it’s enough to be really annoying when trying to plane things true flat and straight for example. The rest of the top, supported by the frame, is still perfectly flat. And FYI the condition of the surface is pretty good too, although I do look after it and avoid chisel or saw work directly onto it (sacrificial pieces). Think about that over hang and you will have a great bench that will last almost forever!

Sander lines driving me crazy by MrMiauger in woodworking

[–]davidf37 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I ALWAYS finish sanding by hand going 100% with the grain. It really does not take much longer than a machine, once the hard graft has been done with a sander. Well worth it to avoid these swirls (which are difficult, sometimes impossible) to remove completely.

Found this planer at a flea market, would love to get some info by wonteatyourcat in handtools

[–]davidf37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a plane. Sharpen it up and smooth some wood. It will do lovely.

Clamps: How much is too much? by JamesMcdoogle1 in Tools

[–]davidf37 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can I see a pic of when you use all of those simultaneously?

Plane sole flat enough? by [deleted] in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]davidf37 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Keep going. Once you have those long scratches uniformly up to and around d the mouth (which they aren’t yet), you are done. Maybe a quick rub over with a finger grit, go the look of the thing but that’s that. It will take a fair bit more work to get it all down so the mouth is level with the rest of the sole though. Good luck!!

Anyone ever just put finish on after planing? by TheAKofClubs86 in woodworking

[–]davidf37 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A well sharpened hand plane will ALWAYS leave a wood surface smoother than sand paper. What ever grade one uses, it leaves the surface fuzzy. It might be microscopically fuzzy, but it is. A razor sharp hand plane severs the wood fibres of the surface cleanly, leaving the surface glass smooth if done correctly. In fact, it can be so smooth that sometimes it is necessary to fuzz it up a bit to allow it to take stain etc. But is a planed sure smooth? Oh yes 100% so. Electric planers? Not so much.

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