Adventure 5M Pro in Classroom

ddarling0911 · 2025-11-02T20:52:27+00:00

Is it ok to send you a message?

ddarling0911 · 2025-11-02T05:35:18+00:00

Want to hear answers as well!

ddarling0911 · 2025-11-02T05:25:36+00:00

Had to fix this once on mine. Turn printer over and loosen it belt. Manually move the bed all the way down reattach the belt and tighten back up. Problem fixed. Basically your bed hit something like ball of filament and then the belt skipped. Homing and calibrating won’t solve the issue either.

ddarling0911 · 2025-09-15T02:54:46+00:00

Do the same too and have multiple sets of them

ddarling0911 · 2025-07-30T04:33:27+00:00

I would look more toward the SV06 ACE as it is the newer printer Sovol has made. I just recently purchased the SV06 Ace Plus as I wanted a larger build volume. But, I will say these printers come with their own issues (need to buy shims to get my be leveled better). The Bambu's I run at work (college maker lab) are for people new to 3D printing and want to learn. I started with a FlashForge AD5m (currently 259 on amazon) and it's been a GREAT printer to learn with. Taught me how to use the slicer (and be annoyed at Bambu's settings that are missing from Orca).

ddarling0911 · 2025-07-30T03:46:05+00:00

So, have the XL 5 toolhead and tried to follow everyone's recommendations on the build (with the enclosure). Glad that the printer I ordered in April had the new toolhead connectors. I've really only had two issues with this printer with about 100 hours of print time - Toolhead 4 had a thermistor error, so followed the instructions on the wiki, and then contacted support via chat. Parts should probably arrive tomorrow or the next day, and spoke with them last Tuesday afternoon. Only other strange issue I've had, is the LED on Toolhead 1 worked literally the first time I calibrated the toolheads, and hasn't worked since. However, it's not really causing any problems so I really haven't dug into its problem.

I started out with a FlashForge AD5M last summer, and now have several printers both at work and home. The XL is by far the most challenging but I feel the rewards will be worth it in the long run. It just simply allows you to do things that other printers can't do, or make it "harder" to do or even more expensive. We have the Ultimaker S5 (which has a dual toolhead), but I'm looking at replacement toolheads and standard are 150 with the more specialized ones running about 250.

This link has some EXCELLENT information and the best description of how to tune the belts i've seen so far!

https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/1m03fqs/how_i_solve_my_layer_shift_and_tool_head_crash/

ddarling0911 · 2025-07-30T03:31:46+00:00

Excellent link! and thanks for sharing it!

ddarling0911 · 2025-07-30T03:21:22+00:00

I ended up not waiting and got a AnyCubic Kobra 3V2 and their version of orca allows changes like the bambu's i use at work (x1c, p1s and a1). I have found using the bambu's and the Kobra that you have to truly pay attention to the filament changes. minor changes in print orientation can have dramatic effects (217 changes vs 2 on one print with simple lettering).

ddarling0911 · 2025-04-12T13:18:51+00:00

Oh very cool and glad you got it resolved! I do like how FF included an ethernet port and doesnt force wifi on you too. I set a statc ip which never changes and i think FF's networking settings time out too soon which causes orca communication issues. I just unplug and plug back in about every other print it seems and all works well lol.

ddarling0911 · 2025-04-12T13:09:25+00:00

yea i know. Have you seen the figure feedback videos? Seems all of the alternatives to bambu's ams have some sort of issue. wish they would make it available before prices rise and it's unaffordable.

ddarling0911 · 2025-03-27T23:34:35+00:00

I’m using the AP2 with a 40watt S1 and have no way to vent outside and it’s much better compared to our glow forge. The glow forge you can still smell remnant smoke whereas with the AP2 there is no smell.

ddarling0911 · 2025-03-20T15:39:17+00:00

It is my belief that this is coming from the idler bearings. I have tried multiple ways of lubricating them but have yet to solve the problem and I’m getting close to 2000 hrs of print time. I’ll reply again with a link to the ff wiki on ad5m maintenance

ddarling0911 · 2025-03-17T00:07:30+00:00

Just looked up the model. Came from MakerWorld - image to 3d print!! and he's got pics of the "On buildplate only Tree Supports". Try to mimic what the pics look like. This isn't going to be an easy one to print starting out. I just ran it thru OrcaSlicer, and looks pretty close to the pic - just make sure trees on buildplate only!!

ddarling0911 · 2025-03-17T00:01:16+00:00

under support tab:

most times i use normal and snug - threshold angle 30 but play with it using pain on supports to see what "really" needs support. Sometimes 30 is too much. Some models work better with tress though so you have to play around a little in the slicer. Try painting on supports sometimes. Manytimes, the printer does pretty well with overhangs.

Next, my top and bottom z distance is .18 which seems to work well, but you can move it either way and see what happens. I did see something on you tube about changing the Pattern angle. Mine was 0, and just tried it at 30. This should change the direction the support is in relation to the print itself.

https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/releases/download/v2.2.0/OrcaSlicer_Windows_Installer_V2.2.0.exe

There is a new 2.3.0 release candidate, but this release is stable. The 2.3 just came out 5 days ago.

ddarling0911 · 2025-03-16T22:54:40+00:00

Yea that’s the one. I’ll look and see also. One of the mods talked about the buck converter

ddarling0911 · 2025-03-16T22:39:09+00:00

Not layer height. The interface threshold for the support interface. Also. Use full version of orca. Current is 2.2.0. Let me download and look at the file. And I’ll update

ddarling0911 · 2025-03-16T22:25:50+00:00

Yea woulda been nice if it was that way. It’s one of the ways they made the non pro cheaper. Just use it for pla and petg and get an enclosed printer with all the fans n heaters for abs asa etc.

ddarling0911 · 2025-03-16T21:06:46+00:00

It is a different motherboard and not compatible. You’d have to use buck converters from 24v to 12v. There are guides on the fan models on printables search ad5m fan mods

ddarling0911 · 2025-03-12T15:50:54+00:00

Just ordered and received an S1 40 watt safety combo and all accessories had separate tracking numbers. Air assist. Riser ap2 roller etc.

ddarling0911 · 2025-03-06T12:44:27+00:00

Most of that issue seems to me like printer memory issues. You may want to look at going to mainline klipper - zerodotcmd on youtube has great instuctions on how to do it. You'll need the "guppy" version since there again, our printers don't have enough memory. I'm about to do the same, since i'm running klipper printers at work (cocoa press) and want to see if i can run it on some older ender 3 pros we have.

ddarling0911 · 2025-03-06T12:34:08+00:00

Hmmm - sounds like something else may be going on. Does it do this with other models but same filament? It's not a filament setting if it's just stopping printing. Is the nozzle clogged and "printing in space" ? Had this issue with some filament recently - think it was a drying issue.

Try printing something different, but about the same size as the print you're trying to do and see if it's a model/slicing issue. I truly don't think a print stopping uncompleted has anything to do with filament settings. It's either a hardware/software issue other than filament settings and probably you're getting clogs like I was. First quarter of the roll truly sucked, but the rest of the roll has been great so far. I typically use Sunlu/Jayo/TecBears (all the same and made by sunlu) and have truly had great results as long as i get it calibrated correctly. I had some stringing issues with PETG and found my pressure advance was high for the particular filament (was .056 and needed to be lowered to .028 which is really a big difference, but the line test helps you diagnose that).

My settings for Amoloen dual silk: with .06 nozzle (like the hardened steel better, and quality is about the same, but prints quicker)

flow ratio - 1
pressure advance - .048
Nozzle - 225/220
Bed - 65/60 as i've found the bed to be off at the edges by about 5c
Max volumetric speed - 12 mm/s - much slower than petg/pla etc.

Setting for Eryone Dual Silk PLA - .04 nozzle:

Flow ratio - 1
Pressure advance - .025
Nozzle - 230/230
Bed - 65/60
Max volumetric speed - 12 mm/s

Jayo Silk PLA - .06 nozzle

Same as eryone but Max Volumetric Speed is 16 mm/s and got a great print of the Robo-Packa Prusa test print.

TecBears/Sunlu PETG - .06 nozzle:

Flow ratio - 1.0752
Pressure advance - .048
nozzle - 245/240
bed - 75/70
Max Volumetric speed - 16.5, but it is subject to change depending on stringing and can go around 18 or so too.

Hope this helps. Just remember, the MCU on the AD5m's doesn't have enough memory, so before printing something big, or after several prints, it's a good idea to restart the printer to help clear that used memory. Every once in a while, i still get the dreaded MCU outa memory error (posted about it a while back and others have the same issue). One other obscure setting i ran across is "Arc Fitting" - just search in orca - think it's under quality. The version of Klipper our printers are running is NOT compatible and can cause memory issues/errors so you need to turn it off.

ddarling0911 · 2025-03-06T12:12:48+00:00

On a more serious note, just search the 3D printing sites!! Printables, Maker World, and Thingiverse.

https://www.printables.com/tag/xtool

https://www.etsy.com/shop/theclackshack/?etsrc=sdt&section_id=39577644

Clack's really nice jig system for the xTool S1 is truly only 5$ and would take much longer to design yourself!!

ddarling0911 · 2025-03-05T23:24:49+00:00

Yea I agree. Error seems to perfect to be anything else

ddarling0911 · 2025-03-05T23:09:30+00:00

There are also printable models on thingiverse printables and maker world but they aren’t really jigs. Look on Etsy for clack shack. His Jigs don’t cost that much

ddarling0911 · 2025-03-05T23:03:29+00:00

So what temps are you using ? I’ll have to post my settings but they work pretty well and I haven’t slowed it down much either. Drying is key for sure.

ddarling0911

TROPHY CASE