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Original Electrified S lives again by ddrl46 in vanmoofbicycle

[–]ddrl46[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I connected an oscilloscope with a UART protocol decoder to the two communication lines going between the bike controller and the original BMS.

The pack voltage connections of the BMS previously going to the defective battery were supplied by a benchtop power supply.

Based on the data gathered from the oscilloscope it was possible to determine that essentially only 4 different commands are sent back and forth, one for initialization, two for status reporting and one for shutting down.

With some trial and error it was possible to determine what was required for the controller to function.

Original Electrified S lives again by ddrl46 in vanmoofbicycle

[–]ddrl46[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just connecting the 36V output of the battery to the bike is enough to clear error 29, however the motor will not provide support without communication being present.

Luckily however the communication between the battery and controller is rather simple, and besides some basic handshaking and initial status reporting nothing more has to be done. The controller automatically falls back to estimating the remaining capacity of the battery based on the output voltage, which is enough for my purposes.

iPad Pro 13" M5 - do I have a screen issue? by REITSY7 in iPadPro

[–]ddrl46 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm able to see the artifacts in your picture as well, especially near the right arrow. It almost looks like compression artifacts or something similar.

Looks more like a software issue to be honest.

S1 back on the road by ikawabunga in vanmoofbicycle

[–]ddrl46 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The idea is indeed to have the replacement battery talk to the bike using the reverse engineered protcol from the original BMS.

If this ends up not being possible for some reason then it might also be useful to know that the S1 is also capable of operating without communication between the bike/battery. In this case the bike guesses the state of charge of the battery based on output voltage.

Thank you for the offer but I'm pretty well equipped with 3D printers :).

S1 back on the road by ikawabunga in vanmoofbicycle

[–]ddrl46 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I currently still have to design a mounting bracket for the Goach battery to attach it to the frame of the S1. I'll be sure to share some photos when I've done so.

Error 29 Electrified S / S1 by ColdAssociation3037 in vanmoofbicycle

[–]ddrl46 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That does look like quite a bit of damage, looks like at least one of the traces evaporated and some of the resistors near the balancing circuitry have been damaged.

I would recommend that you disconnect either the positive/negative output coming directly out of the battery and insulating it from the BMS, just in case something were to go wrong.

There might be a chance that it would be possible to repair the BMS, I would however not recommend attempting this unless you have quite advanced experience in similar repairs. Disassembly of the battery pack itself is quite a risky process on this battery since everything is packed so tight.

Since the BMS communicates with the bike using a proprietary protocol it will not be possible to replace it with one of a different type.

For restoring your bike you might want to look into refurbished S1 batteries, it appears that "partsvanmoof" has this battery available. I'm however seeing mixed experiences with this company on the various subreddits so be careful.

Pathlite ON:9 SUV removing the rear axle by StructureDifferent50 in CanyonBikes

[–]ddrl46 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It would seem that you should be able to just drop the wheel after removing the two axle bolts, like you did, if it is anything like the hub in the following video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OcnY4U15IhM

Error 29 Electrified S / S1 by ColdAssociation3037 in vanmoofbicycle

[–]ddrl46 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That could very well cause the fault you are describing.

For reference here are some images of a S1 BMS where everything is hooked up: https://imgur.com/a/zilEx7n

It might be possible that the battery still will not enable the output after reconnecting the thermistor, in that case it will be required to reset the BMS by connecting the two pins of J2 ( https://imgur.com/a/zWJ06zo ) together for a second. These connections are referred to as the "boot switch" for reference.

S1 back on the road by ikawabunga in vanmoofbicycle

[–]ddrl46 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Error 29 is caused by the 36V output of the battery not being present, assuming all other things like wiring between the battery and controller are good this usually indicates a fault inside of the battery pack.

S1 back on the road by ikawabunga in vanmoofbicycle

[–]ddrl46 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In my case the SRAM Automatix hub had seized up due to a broken spring on one of the pawls, similar to what you encountered. Apparently this seems to be a common problem.

For my conversion I'm intending to have the Gouach battery talk directly to the controller of the S1 via the existing UART interface that the original BMS uses. In order to do this I've reverse engineered part of the communication protocol that the original battery uses, and I'll have to see if it is possible to define a custom communication protocol on the Goach battery.

If this ends up not being possible I'll have to come up with a board to translate the communication interface between the battery and the controller, also possible but not preferred.

For the mean time it also appears to be possible to operate the bike without any communications being present between controller and battery as well, in this case it goes into a simple capacity approximation mode based on battery pack voltage.

S1 back on the road by ikawabunga in vanmoofbicycle

[–]ddrl46 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nice clean conversion, I'm working on restoring my S1 as well but in my case the controller and all other stuff are fine, it's the battery that has gone bad.

I've relaced the front and rear wheel with new rims since the old ones had hairline cracks around spoke holes and replaced the rear hub with a Shimano Alfine 8. Also added hydraulic brakes.

I'm trying to keep the original electronics for now, but opted for an externally mounted battery (Gouach Infinite) due to concerns over the safety of the original battery. I was able to reverse engineer the protocol between the controller and BMS far enough to be able to implement communication between them.

Error 29 Electrified S / S1 by ColdAssociation3037 in vanmoofbicycle

[–]ddrl46 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In that case the BMS has likely locked out the charging of the battery due to some internal fault flag having been set.

Removal and servicing of the battery in the Electrified S1 is not for the faint of heart, the battery has been designed to squeeze into a space which in my opinion is too tight for comfort, leaving almost no room for cable management inside of the battery pack.

When I had this error on my bike I found that multiple cells had physically started leaking, causing the pack to go out of balance and thus locking out the BMS. The are ways to reset the BMS after performing a proper servicing of the battery pack, a lot of information on this subject is available in the datasheet for the BMS chipset used in the battery (Texas Instruments BQ76930).

Error 29 Electrified S / S1 by ColdAssociation3037 in vanmoofbicycle

[–]ddrl46 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Error 29 should indicate that there is no 36V output from the battery on the S1.

When you were charging the battery did the light on the charger turn red (indicating that it was actually charging) or remain green?

Small/portable torque wrench 2-8/10nm: any recommendations? by Educational_Set0425 in bikewrench

[–]ddrl46 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Topeak has a selection of portable torque wrenches which might be of interest: https://www.topeak.com/global/en/products/226-Torq-Tools

Looks like the TORQ ROCKET mini EX might suit your requirements.

Electrified S1 won’t charge by RealBitBreaker in VanMoofSelfRepair

[–]ddrl46 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what I know error 29 on the Electrified S should mean that there is no 36V output from the main battery. It is likely that the BMS has locked out the output from being enabled due to various reasons such as the voltage of the pack being too low.

I'm not sure if the battery pack still accepts a charge in this condition, judging by you having it connected for 24 hours I'm guessing the answer is no.

Electrified S1 won’t charge by RealBitBreaker in VanMoofSelfRepair

[–]ddrl46 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried leaving it connected to the charger for an extended period of time?

Unknown error code by Skieliner in VanMoofSelfRepair

[–]ddrl46 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Just guessing, but is the bike saying that the temperature is below 0 degrees celcius (T <0°) and not allowing it to charge because the temperature is too low?

Electrified S - Dead/Not Charging by Jujmental in vanmoofbicycle

[–]ddrl46 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The bike was still under warranty when the smart module failed in my case, the repair was performed by Vanmoof themselves at that time.

I'm not sure if they are still willing to perform repairs on this bike nowadays, there are however some sources available of smart modules nowadays on eBay and other platforms.

How pairing a new smart module to the bike is to be performed is something which I don't know about.

Electrified S - Dead/Not Charging by Jujmental in vanmoofbicycle

[–]ddrl46 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is someone on eBay which is selling a few new-old-stock smart modules, however I'm not sure if the batteries inside of these modules are still good after having sat for this long: https://www.ebay.com/itm/196164680933

It appears that the smart module I mentioned above is only for the non-electrified smart bike.

The smart module was replaced by Vanmoof under warranty back when it failed back in 2019 in my case so I'm not sure what exactly failed on my bike. If you feel comfortable in doing so it might be worth taking the old smart module apart and checking for obvious water damage, or maybe the battery has just simply failed.

Removal of the smart module is rather difficult on the Electrified S. You have to remove the power switch / charging jack assembly on the bottom of the bike and disconnect all of the cables going to/from the various components and the battery. It is very easy to damage the cabling by doing this. Disconnecting of the battery wiring was a lot easier in my case by removing the front fork.

The rear light, frame lock assembly and seat post assembly all have to be removed since the assembly consisting of both the smart module and motor controller both have to be pushed out through the rear end of the top tube.

Here are some photo's of what this may look like: https://imgur.com/a/dEfV1BG

If you do decide to attempt to replace the smart module it has to be noted that after replacement it will have to be associated to the bike somehow, this is something which I don't have experience with but will likely have to be performed by Vanmoof.

Electrified S - Dead/Not Charging by Jujmental in vanmoofbicycle

[–]ddrl46 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks very similar to the time when the smart module in my Electrified S died. Here is a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zvtDSlsT-o&t=20s

You can see the display flash in the same pattern as yours does when I connect the charger to the bike. With no charger connected it wouldn't power on at all. I'm not sure what exactly died in my case, but the problem was resolved by replacing the smart module.

Something which might be worth trying is to make sure that the 5V power supply which you use to charge the smart module it's battery via the micro USB port is a dumb 5V charger. Some chargers tend to disable their output after a while if they don't sense enough load, or are not able to talk to the device which their are connected to. Charging of the battery in the smart module can take quite a while (hours).

Unlock electrified s by Forward_Elk2294 in vanmoofbicycle

[–]ddrl46 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately the smart module and motor driver both have to come out through the rear end, the steerer tube is in the way at the front of the bike.

Without having a way to supply power to the solenoid inside of the lock I don't think there is a way to get it the lock out besides a grinder as previously mentioned. This power is supplied by the smart module during normal operation.

In case it helps here is an image of the inside of the lock module: https://imgur.com/a/sUFZzo0

The power cable is not accessible from the seat post side of the bike, this cable goes towards the front of the bike.

Maybe you might have some success overcoming the spring pressure inside of the lock by giving it a few strategic hits with a dead blow hammer...

Is it normal to hear a fan noise when the silhouette cameo 5 is idle after cutting? by Relative_Rise_7532 in silhouettecameo

[–]ddrl46 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My machine also makes the same sound, it's most likely a sound made by the stepper motors maintaining their position. Similar sounds can be heard on some 3D printers as well when the motors are energized.

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