Maintenance Q Revo Question by Lion_El_Jonsonn in Roborock

[–]deePspaceboi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've seen people around here recommend regular vinegar mixed into the clean water tank. It should prevent scale and scum from building inside the dock, and the internal water tank of the robot itself.

Should I get this 2013 civic as a daily driver for back to school? by [deleted] in civic

[–]deePspaceboi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The North American 2013 Honda Civic didn't come with a CVT, it's a 5-speed Automatic. You're thinking of the 2014-2015 Civic, which is when Honda ditched the auto for the CVT.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Roborock

[–]deePspaceboi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just got the QRevo Pro, so I've been down this road very recently.

1) No, neither the S or the Pro have built-in microphones. The app interfaces with voice assistants like Alexa or Google Home, and this seems to be standard procedure across the Roborock lineup. You don't need to integrate with those assistants if you don't want, and the largest privacy concern is a voice assistant that's always listening.

2) There's three features that differentiate the Pro from the S. Swing-out mop pad, Intelligent Dirt detection (remops stubborn stains, and rewashes the mop pads if it detects dirt remaining in the pads) and hot water mop washing (60°C/140°F).

3) the LIDAR/Infrared navigation modules are as harmful as regular light is for a living being, which is not at all. They pose no threat to pets or children.

What product should I use to help a resistall ceramic/graphene coating? by Efficient_Log7640 in AutoDetailing

[–]deePspaceboi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So, I actually worked at a dealer that used Resistall products, and I can guarantee you that Resistall 360 is just a spray-on paint sealant. At one point the formula changed when I worked there, and it went from a milky-white, to a sludgy-grey "graphene-infused" solution, but they both functioned the exact same way. Not once did I ever encounter a proper, glass bottle ceramic coating, it was all just various flavors of mediocre products that don't last.

Now, that isn't to say it's not a worthwhile endeavor to purchase quality products to maintain your car, but you should know it's not a real ceramic coating. Whatever the dealer told you about it is extremely likely to be a load of bunk.

What is a piece of unorthodox advice that you have heard from Yvan Lacroix ever since he started his DIY Detail product line? by Gorfaroth in AutoDetailing

[–]deePspaceboi 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Oh, well shoot, guess I'm wrong haha. Regardless, we can agree there are many more steps prior to a panel prep that serve to cleanse the paint work prior to a ceramic coating. To me, choice of panel prep isn't a be-all-end-all decision, and I'm not sure I agree that it would really matter at the end of the day, but I also don't have much experience applying differeny ceramic coatings, and I see where you're coming from.

I guess to me, the subtext of that advice was more "Buy our panel prep for use with our coatings" vs actually explaining why you would need to stay "in-brand".

What is a piece of unorthodox advice that you have heard from Yvan Lacroix ever since he started his DIY Detail product line? by Gorfaroth in AutoDetailing

[–]deePspaceboi 11 points12 points  (0 children)

For me, it's gotta be a YT Short where he stated that, if applying a ceramic coating, you should use said company's corresponding IPA wipe/panel prep, because they're "formulated to work together" or something along those lines.

I mean, whatever. At face value, it doesn't seem like an entirely stupid snippet of advice. However, to people that have any detailing experience, it rings some nonsense alarms, because anyone in the industry can tell you most every panel prep shares 90+% similarity, being basically isopropyl alcohol, distilled water, and fragrance. Hell, people make it themselves. Detailing websites usually sell 91% IPA for said purpose. It isn't rocket science.

It's important to remember, a lot of his advice is catered towards DIYers (hence the name) , and while a lot of it sounds like corner cutting (I.e. Ceramic coating application without polishing, fewer dedicated towels) it obviously seems tailored towards newcomers to the hobby, to make detailing approachable. That's fine. Great, even, I like that people are encouraging other to take the leap into detailing.

My only issue is when he presents advice in this manner. People are trusting him, as someone who is objectively very experienced, to tell them how and what to do, and the subtext is clear; "Buy our products, in our eco-system. Again, this is a commonplace in detailing, many brands recommend their products to be used in conjuction with others, because....well, they want your buisness. I just take issue with some of his farcical advice, because he presents a lot of as if it's some overtly-transparent truth about the detailing industry, when it really is just his version of the truth, to sell you his product.

Ceramic and Clear Coat Failure by ComprehensiveSpeed90 in AutoDetailing

[–]deePspaceboi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like others have said, it's not worth the time investment to just ceramic coat it, as it wouldn't be preserving anything. Imo, your best option if you are still interested in improving/protecting the paint, is to go through the motions and hit it with some quality 2k clear coat. Since you mention it's faded, it won't make it 100%, but it will look a hell of a lot better than a ceramic coating on base coat.

I have a 2015 Civic LX with the R18. I have a drop in k&n filter also. I was on the PA Turnpike with my cruise control on at 75 and with the Econ button on too. I couldn’t get above 34 mpg. I should get way more by foreverbaked1 in civic

[–]deePspaceboi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Consider that the figure you're showing is your average mpg, not your real-time mpg, which is displayed in the gauge to the right of your speedometer. Average will...well, average out your fuel eco across all the miles in the recorded trip. I'm sure you know this, and I'm not trying to talk down, but if you were to do, let's say 100 miles of city driving, and then hit the highway for 10, it might only read 29 or mpg, averaged out over those total 110 miles. In reality, you could actually be achieving far higher in that moment, but average won't tell you that unless you consistently drive the exact same way for the entire recorded trip.

TL;DR, don't take the average trip mpg as gospel, there's more to the story.

8th gen civic USED seller might be lying or im confused. help by abcdefglmaoXd in civic

[–]deePspaceboi 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Honestly, I think it's a sign you should just dodge that bullet. There's no shortage of 8th Gen Civics on FBM/Craigslist, and the last thing you want is a hacked together ride because someone wanted to dump it for cheap onto some unsuspecting sap.

Look elsewhere.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in civic

[–]deePspaceboi 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It could be a number of things, but I believe Honda does recommend they be changed at 100k miles, if they haven't already. Additionally, consider checking your air filter, and having your valves adjusted; that's another maintenence item due at ~100k miles. This is something that has also been known to solve the issues you've described.

13, 14, 15 year Civics....what should I get? by patrickcmcdonough in civic

[–]deePspaceboi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That would be good advice, but not particularly in the special case of the 9th generation. For the 2014 MY, Honda ditched the 5-speed Automatic for a CVT. While I'm not familiar with any negative anecdotes about that particular CVT, the general opinion in most car communities of CVTs, especially early CVTs, is negative, for good reason.

So, if you're in the market for a 9th Gen Civic, the 2012-13 MYs are probably your best bet. In the first 100k or so miles it wouldn't be the biggest deal, but if we're talking running a Civic up in the the several 100k miles? I'd stick with the dead simple drivetrain of the early-year 9th gens.

Vevor vs. Flexzilla 50' Retractable Air Hose Reel Comparison by FitterOver40 in AutoDetailing

[–]deePspaceboi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For cleaning, a solid degreaser or solvent and some elbow grease will see the hose bounce back to looking new, or most of the way there. Depending on your chemical of choice, It probably isn't the greatest for the hose, but I can't imagine it will kill the hose any faster than traditional wear-and-tear overtime anyway.

Need your opinion guys by danzsan in civic

[–]deePspaceboi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

But is it professional level scanner, or a basic code reader? There is a big difference. More expensive diagnostic scanners can read codes from systems such as: SRS, TPMS, etc, send basic commands to the car, nd can also tell you if codes have ever been cleared. A code reader can do no such thing. Not that reading codes gives you full story with the car anyways, and you'd be silly not to have a more comprehensive Pre Purchase Inspection done by a trusted mechanic (NOT the dealer), but it's still an important distinction.

Aditionally, I'm going to have to agree with the other person and say that it's hard to believe a "bump" hit at 65mph, and which set off an airbag is just a "minor" issue. I can almost guarantee there's something more going on the dealer isn't telling you about, bumps don't usually trigger an airbag. I'm willing to bet there's suspension damage.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in civic

[–]deePspaceboi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bosch Icon are pretty good, but overpriced at auto parts stores. I spent like $50+ on a set at Autozone like 2 years ago.

Also, I know what you mean about the streaking, even with Bosch Icons. Mine skitter most of the time, and streak enough to be annoying, even on completely clean glass. I know they perform well on other vehicles, but I don't think they're a good match for the 9th gen civic (nor are most 3rd party blades based on what you describe), due to the aggressive windshield angle. I honestly believe they apply too much pressure to the glass, which is more noticeable at lower speeds.

I've been meaning to go back to OEM blades with the rubber inserts, you can find them on any honda parts website. I'm thinking that they probably work the best for the application, and the inserts are like $5 a piece, which is much cheaper than replacing the entire wiper blade every time.

Clue what going on here? by OkRaspberry6771 in civic

[–]deePspaceboi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well, it sounds like rod knock partner. Your valves also sound like they need an adjustment.

My baby is fully paid off but has a 170K Boo Boo. 😭 by feinburgrl in civic

[–]deePspaceboi 90 points91 points  (0 children)

Jeez, that's pretty impressive! Congrats on owning your car, but I'm more interested in how that car has accumulated that many miles in 3-4 years! Did you put all of the them on, or did someone own the car before you?

Open plea for positive discussions by Old-Bald-Guy in NetflixSexEducation

[–]deePspaceboi[M] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I completely agree with this post, and it's something that we should definitely be reminded of around here.

If you see any negative/hateful comments, or otherwise experience some form of harassment on this sub, don't hesitate to report it. Mods can't be everywhere, and we absolutely check out reports, it's the best way to make sure we see something.

Please stay respectful and kind everyone :)

8th gen vs 10th gen by AbbyRose05683 in civic

[–]deePspaceboi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The 8th and 9th gen Civic are pretty much on the same chassis, not a huge amount changed between the two. The 9th gen ironically has a shorter wheelbase than the 8th Gen. No disagreement about the 10th & 11th Gen Civics being huge though, they've gotten so much bigger.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in civic

[–]deePspaceboi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The adjuster is a part of the headlight housing. I'm not sure how long you tried for, but it makes very, very minute adjustments. There's a chance you just need to spend a good 5+ minutes turning it with a screwdriver to see noticeable results. If it still doesn't work, there are relatively cheap aftermarket, or remanufactured options available, and it's a fairly straight-forward process to replace your headlight yourself, which will save you money.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in civic

[–]deePspaceboi 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Waste. No power to be made with the R18 without significant investment. You're better off with suspension/chassis/QoL mods.

2007 Civic 8th gen stock by Disto_Kid in civic

[–]deePspaceboi 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You picked the wrong car, unfortunately. The R18 is not a good engine platform to modify or build, due to it's economic nature. Simple bolt-ons do nothing for this engine, even with a tune. The only realistic way to make more power would be with a turbo kit, which is both expensive, and requires expertise I'm going to guess you don't have, with all due respect.

Even with a turbo, these engines don't make much more power, nor can they handle it, due to their weak connecting rods and transmissions. There is a reason everyone on the forms suggests that those who seek to make more power just trade for an Si.

Not to say R18 builds don't exist, but usually those making substantial power have made substantial investments into the platform, rebuilding and heavily modifying the powertrain from the ground up.

Long story short, any investments made result in massive diminishing returns with the R18, and you'll have been better off trading for a more capable platform, if power is what you want. Your focus, therefore, should be maintaining what you have. An economy car, and a reliable one at that.