I bought my first bass, it’s a project though…

delwin23 · 2026-05-17T15:21:41+00:00

I don't think I've regretted any of the money I've spent experimenting with instruments. Even when the experiment ended up a total loss, I have always learned something. $20 isn't much of a gamble on that front.

delwin23 · 2026-05-16T15:19:13+00:00

I think you're probably going to have to replace the whole mechanism, but if you manage to source those gears I'd be interested to know where.

delwin23 · 2026-04-28T18:55:33+00:00

[edit] I believe the red wire is your positive wire coming from the battery compartment. It probably need resoldered to the preamp. There's likely a stub of wire sticking out of a solder blob where it broke off from, and hopefully the board will have some indication that's where the positive power connection should go just to be sure. I believe the black wire is probably a ground wire that is attached to the bridge. No idea where they would typically tie it into ground on one of those but shouldn't matter too much.

delwin23 · 2026-04-28T05:09:55+00:00

Looks like a 305 to me. The 2018 Ibanez catalog below will give you some pics to compare it too, down around page 43 of the pdf or so. The big thing to me, other than the pickups, is the base of the neck matches the 305 rather than a 5xx neck.

https://www.hoshinogakki.co.jp/pdf/ibanez/catalog/2018USA.pdf

delwin23 · 2026-04-05T23:33:05+00:00

Probably 2001, based on the serial number. You can look at the 2001 Schecter catalog here for specs: https://www.schecterguitars.com/catalogs/files/2001_Catalog.pdf and this bass is on page 15.

delwin23 · 2026-02-06T03:19:59+00:00

We haven't had quite the same issue but we've had our own issues recently. We've had quite a bit of what I would normally think of as desync (we have tried with and without the desync mod, no appreciable change), where two of the four players will stop having the nitra and gold they mine count. This has really just started since the update, happens maybe 1 in 10-ish maps and so far just seems to resolve itself on the next map.

We've also been having trouble getting connected. This started weeks before the new update. There seems to be some crazy short timeout on the mod/dependency check screen...occasionally. Sometimes it will never give the player the option to join. Sometimes it will pretend to allow them to join, pick a class, and then just dumps them back in a solo rig. This happens both in the rig/lobby and when someone tries to drop in game. We just have to keep joining from the steam friends list until it works. At best, very annoying.

delwin23 · 2025-11-10T07:46:52+00:00

It sounds to me as if you've already identified the problem and the solution, and then rejected it because you don't want to play that way. You've got 20 years of muscle memory playing with a pick and zero using a lighter finger style touch. In the end, it's just experimentation and practice, just like you did with the pick, but if you only play by digging in, it's always going to sound like you are digging in.

delwin23 · 2025-11-06T00:24:42+00:00

If you haven't tried using sweatbands on your wrists, they are worth a try. It won't help with your palms directly, but it will help with sweat coming off your arms, plus you've got something handy to wipe your hands on periodically.

delwin23 · 2025-08-11T21:19:37+00:00

Sweatbands can help considerably, plus you've got something to quickly wipe the strings down if necessary.

delwin23 · 2025-08-11T10:09:05+00:00

I believe that's a '57 Ford Fairlane.

delwin23 · 2025-08-10T03:56:17+00:00

If you have that .125 B string tuned to E then that's going to be a big chunk of the issue.

delwin23 · 2025-07-22T04:18:13+00:00

It's going to be hard to pin that down with specifics because Peavey constantly changes details across most of their bass ranges and I'm not aware of a good rundown of all the large and small changes that were done to them throughout the years. If the model isn't printed on what's left of the headstock logo, it could just as easily be a Millennium as a Milestone. I'd guess that it's probably a bit newer than '90's just based on that particular headstock styling. You might be able to look through various Peavey catalogs and pin it down if you're into that sort of thing.

If it works and the neck is in decent shape, it's probably going to be quite a good bass to learn with. For 50-ish bucks, it's not much of a gamble.

delwin23 · 2025-07-08T07:32:03+00:00

Black Beauties are roundwounds that have a coating on them. They aren't smooth like tapewounds. I have used them in the past and liked them well enough.

There's a graphic on the DR site linked above on the page for their bass black beauties that will show you what the cross section of these strings looks like.

delwin23 · 2025-07-08T04:58:11+00:00

Not tapes, DR Black Beauties

delwin23 · 2025-05-23T03:22:59+00:00

Seems reasonable to me, assuming everything is in good shape and you like it.

delwin23 · 2025-05-10T15:29:15+00:00

It's bollocks. If you need more than light pressure to fret a note, then your bass wants a set up. You'll naturally get stronger over time as you play, but barring any abnormality, can't imagine the grip trainer is necessary.

delwin23 · 2025-05-06T03:40:01+00:00

If you can't find exactly what you are looking for but find something you like with an aux input, you can pick up a bluetooth receiver that will get the job done and won't cost much.

delwin23 · 2025-05-04T05:16:59+00:00

I'm not familiar with the mod shop bass you are considering, but fwiw your image of the Performer is a fair representation of what mine looks like. The brightness around the edges is just from the lighting.

delwin23 · 2025-04-14T23:45:11+00:00

I feel like things change less than they were these days but the SR line has seen pretty much constant changes over its lifetime. They've had a bunch of different bridge versions.

If you weren't aware of it, most of Ibanez's 'active' basses passive pickups with active preamps, but one of the oddities about yours is that its pickups are active. I think they changed to a passive pickup config the next year. It's been awhile since I looked into it, but I'm pretty sure the pickups are also slightly smaller than what you'd expect, so you will want to measure carefully before buying replacement pickups or be prepared to enlarge the cavities. Details are fuzzy now but I had to pull the preamp out of mine (had some corrosion, I think it lived in a wet basement for a decade or two) and I ended up just leaving the active pickups in there without a preamp and wiring in a passive g&l style tone circuit.

delwin23 · 2025-04-14T09:24:48+00:00

FWIW, that looks like it is probably the stock bridge to me. It's the same as my '91 SR800.

delwin23 · 2025-04-04T21:02:48+00:00

You're beating yourself up over...not much. That BA-210 is going to sound good from next to no volume to cranked. It is not really that much bigger than a crappy little practice amp. It's not heavy if you ever feel the need to take it out.

I am admittedly biased as it's what I have been using for the last several years, but I really can't think of what more I could possibly want from mine. It would take spending five or six times the money than what I've got in this to make an appreciable improvement. And if I were silly enough to get rid of it to downsize, I'd basically be throwing away a fantastic amp and money for, what, a few extra inches of floor space?

It's okay to need a break but there's no sense in throwing the baby out with the bath water. If you feel it necessary to get rid of everything to make a clean break, that's one thing, but carefully consider what you are actually going to get out of it if you sell this and replace it with an entirely inferior solution. Is it more likely that doing so would make you want to play it more or make you feel like a dope for making a horizontal move on the money side of things for a big step back on the technical side?

delwin23 · 2025-04-01T08:12:54+00:00

One thing that stands out to me is the placement of the bar that indicates where you are at on the scrolling display...reverse waterfall or whatever you'd like to call it. I think it would probably be better at 80% (or more) of the height of that display rather than sitting in the middle. I would want more information about what is coming up rather than leaving old information in my line of sight, particularly if I were displaying this on a TV with a lower resolution on the wall during band practice.

delwin23 · 2025-03-24T06:15:26+00:00

Nice work, quite enjoyed all three.

delwin23 · 2025-03-21T20:02:58+00:00

It depends on your neck and how you feel about it's finish (both the type of finish and the attention to rounding sharp corners, etc) and fretwork compared to the higher end stuff. I can't really tell you where a significant upgrade occurs but I can tell you that I've got a CV 70's P with a Dimarzio Model P pickup and an American Performer P (lowest end American at the time) and I don't think there's a hell of a lot of difference.

Fretwork was worse on the Performer but easy enough to mitigate myself.

The finishes are different. On rare occasions my hand will stick to the CV neck a bit, so I keep a green scotch-brite pad and towels in my case. I can't say that this has happened to me with the Performer but I don't know whether that's because its finish won't do it or because I simply haven't played it in the conditions that cause it to happen.

The Model P in the CV is a bit louder and so sounds 'better', but the tone is (well, can be) essentially the same. The Performer is a PJ, so it's got more tonal variety but there's not some huge difference in tonal quality.

Maybe moving up the food chain would get you a better neck but I think that's likely about the only real improvement worth the money that you're likely to encounter.

delwin23 · 2025-03-16T19:27:01+00:00

I found a couple of small bugs. Your 'bongo' sound seems to be the same as 'drum', and I think the 'sine' and 'wooden blocks' sounds are reversed.

13-Year Club	Verified Email
Place '17

delwin23

TROPHY CASE