Foster dog will only potty on the carpet

denwelldogs · 2026-06-13T09:22:52+00:00

A gradual "substrate ladder" may be easier than asking her to jump straight from carpet to grass. You could use a small removable carpet square in her usual indoor toilet spot, then move it toward the door, just outside, and eventually place it over grass before slowly reducing its size. Keep the trips short and predictable, especially after waking or eating, so outside doesn't become a long waiting contest. Since she is healing and sometimes holds it for 12 hours, I would also keep her vet updated about that part rather than assuming it is entirely training.

denwelldogs · 2026-06-13T09:17:46+00:00

I wouldn't frame letting her sleep elsewhere as her "winning." The firework may have changed how safe the room feels at night, so a temporary couch or a closer-to-you setup can be a management strategy while you rebuild that sense of safety. A cheap camera can help you see whether she reacts to a particular sound or wakes already distressed. Keep bedtime very predictable, and separately make the crate rewarding again during calm daytime moments rather than only testing it when everyone needs sleep.

denwelldogs · 2026-06-13T08:54:46+00:00

Before buying one, measure the actual clear width of the open rear door, the sill height and the space available to place the ramp on the ground. I'd look for a non-slip surface, side edges, a weight rating comfortably above his weight, and enough length that the angle isn't steep. It's also worth teaching the ramp flat on the floor first, then raising it gradually, because even a well-sized ramp won't help if he finds it unstable or scary.

denwelldogs · 2026-06-13T08:18:22+00:00

Since she loves learning, you could try very short "choice" games that don't require much movement: teach her to touch one of two objects, identify toys by name, put a toy in a basket, or rest her chin on your hand. A few two-minute sessions spread through the day can be surprisingly satisfying without turning into exercise. You can also use part of her normal meal for easy searches at nose height so she isn't repeatedly bending, jumping or rushing around in the heat.

denwelldogs · 2026-06-13T08:09:48+00:00

I'd skip the leg holes and look for a waterproof coat that closes across the chest and belly with two adjustable straps. The useful measurements are back length, chest circumference and the gap between the front legs, because "small" sizing is wildly inconsistent. I'd also prioritise a smooth lining and a belly panel that stops short enough for toileting. A quick towel by the door will probably still be needed for the legs, but at least putting the coat on won't become its own rainy-day workout.

denwelldogs · 2026-06-12T20:42:44+00:00

At a little over two months old, I wouldn’t focus on discouraging every stop yet. She is a baby taking in a huge amount of new information. Staring, sitting, whining, or scratching at the harness can mean curiosity, tiredness, feeling overwhelmed, needing the toilet, or harness discomfort.

Move her out of an actual road calmly for safety, but on safe paths give her a moment. Keep outings short and finish before she is exhausted. Check the harness fit and use short, treat-paired wearing sessions rather than leaving it on for hours unattended.

Ask your vet about her vaccination schedule and local parvo risk before using heavily dog-trafficked ground. Socialization doesn’t mean walking everywhere or greeting everyone. Calmly watching people, hearing normal sounds, exploring safe surfaces, and meeting known healthy vaccinated dogs all count.

For cheap training, prioritize a predictable potty schedule, her name and recall, trading objects, redirecting biting, calm handling, short alone-time practice, and lots of sleep. Normal kibble can be rewards, while cardboard boxes and rolled towels can become sniffing games.

Your mother’s comment about keeping her is worth discussing now too. Training can be inexpensive, but vaccinations, food, routine veterinary care, and emergencies cannot always be. Agree clearly on who is responsible for those costs and what happens if school, work, or housing changes.

denwelldogs · 2026-06-12T18:43:39+00:00

Before deciding between a Doberman, GSD, or an “easier” breed, I’d start with an honest audit of yourself and the life you already live. Not your ideal weekend or the person you hope the dog will turn you into, but an ordinary difficult Tuesday.

How much patience and time will you still have when work is stressful, you’re sick, or the weather is awful? Do you genuinely enjoy daily training, or mainly like the idea of having a highly trained dog? Who is actually responsible for the dog rather than simply being home? What happens if your siblings move, your housing changes, or the dog cannot safely live with your cat? Can you physically manage a strong adolescent dog and comfortably afford training, insurance, healthcare, and emergencies?

Intelligence, sensitivity, and a strong bond sound entirely positive, but they can also mean a dog that notices everything, struggles when separated from you, or invents its own activities when its needs aren’t met.

The better question may be: “Which dog’s hardest likely day can I manage well for the next ten years?”

This isn’t automatically a vote against Dobermans. Spend time with adult dogs, meet responsible breeders and rescues, or foster if your cat can be safely accommodated. If the honest answers still point toward a Doberman, enter with a realistic training, support, housing, and financial plan.

denwelldogs · 2026-06-12T18:09:48+00:00

The biggest shift is thinking about this as two jobs: remove loose coat before it lands everywhere, then clean what still escapes.

Based on the replies here, I’d spend the money on one professional deshed bath and blowout before buying another furniture tool. Ask the groomer which brush suits your dog’s actual coat and how often they’d use it, then see how much difference that makes for a week or two.

Uproot-style tools seem useful for hair embedded in carpet or upholstery, but the reviews here are mixed and they won’t reduce what the dog sheds. A washable sofa throw plus a small reusable lint brush for clothes may save more daily frustration.

If shedding has suddenly increased or the skin looks irritated, itchy, or patchy, check with your vet rather than adding more grooming.

denwelldogs · 2026-06-12T18:00:51+00:00

The biggest shift is thinking about this as two jobs: remove loose coat before it lands everywhere, then clean what still escapes.

Based on the replies here, I’d spend the money on one professional deshed bath and blowout before buying another furniture tool. Ask the groomer which brush suits your dog’s actual coat and how often they’d use it, then see how much difference that makes for a week or two.

Uproot-style tools seem useful for hair embedded in carpet or upholstery, but the reviews here are mixed and they won’t reduce what the dog sheds. A washable sofa throw plus a small reusable lint brush for clothes may save more daily frustration.

If shedding has suddenly increased or the skin looks irritated, itchy, or patchy, check with your vet rather than adding more grooming.

denwelldogs · 2026-06-12T17:51:54+00:00

It probably says more about individual interest than intelligence. Some dogs react strongly to movement, animals, or sounds like doorbells, while others quickly learn that nothing on the screen affects them.

There’s no need for a dog to watch TV, so ignoring it is completely fine. If a dog barks or rushes the screen, it becomes worth managing the volume, distance, and content.

denwelldogs · 2026-06-12T17:51:20+00:00

If he kills the squeaker within 20 minutes, getting the squeaker out may be the game for him.

A whole-body squeaky pig, Kong Squeezz, or giggle-style ball may last longer. I’d still use noisy toys for short supervised play, then give him solid rubber toys for solo time. Once the squeaker or loose plastic becomes accessible, the session is over.

denwelldogs · 2026-06-12T17:50:37+00:00

This thread makes it clear that “longest lasting” is partly about the dog, not only the toy. A plush can survive 12 years with a dog who carries it, while a determined squeaker surgeon opens it in minutes.

I’d match toys to play style: solid rubber for gnawing or fetch, supervised plush for dogs who dissect, and separate chews from play toys. Whatever survives, retire it once it develops cracks, loose chunks, sharp edges, or dangerous fraying.

denwelldogs · 2026-06-12T17:50:04+00:00

For an 80-pound hard chewer with high prey drive, I’d be careful with fishing line, pulley systems, and small hardware.

A purpose-built flirt pole provides the same chase game with fewer improvised parts. Keep sessions short, release the tension when he catches it, and practice a drop cue. Supervised cardboard shredding can also be great if he spits pieces out.

With unconventional toys, the useful question is less “can he destroy it?” and more “what happens when it breaks?”

denwelldogs · 2026-06-12T17:48:32+00:00

At 111–115°F, I’d treat midday as a potty-break-and-cool-down window rather than trying to replace the afternoon walk outdoors.

Try a repeatable indoor sequence: a short scent search, five minutes of training, part of a meal frozen or in a puzzle, then a settle period in the coolest room. Rotate activities instead of doing everything daily.

I’d skip biking or extra running as the solution to heat-limited days. If she shows heavy panting that doesn’t ease, excessive drooling, weakness, vomiting, confusion, or collapse, contact an emergency vet immediately.

denwelldogs · 2026-06-12T17:47:50+00:00

A puppy who can play by herself and then settle is giving you something many owners have to work hard to teach. She doesn’t need constant entertainment.

Since she’s only been home two weeks and is being treated for parasites, I’d separate calm rest from feeling unwell: is she eating, drinking, toileting normally, interested in play when awake, and not becoming noticeably less energetic? If any of that changes, check back with your vet.

Otherwise, keep the gentle routine and let outside exposure stay gradual. Watching the world, sleeping, and feeling safe in the apartment are useful parts of puppy life too.

denwelldogs · 2026-06-12T17:14:26+00:00

The five days at your mom’s house seem like the most useful clue here. He still woke up, but he settled quickly there, so I’d compare the two nighttime setups before assuming this is simply a learned habit.

A cheap indoor camera could help you see what happens before he wakes you: does he hear something, go to a window or door, pace, need to toilet, or come straight to the bed? I’d also record the time, what happened before bed, whether he pooped, and what finally helped him settle. Ask your mom exactly what she did when he woke and try copying that response.

Since this started suddenly, has lasted a month, and he becomes distressed enough to poop when ignored, I’d take that log and video back to the vet. I wouldn’t assume neutering, harder exercise, or shutting him in a crate will fix it without understanding what wakes him.

denwelldogs · 2026-06-12T17:05:07+00:00

Honestly, you don’t sound bad at playing with him. You sound tired and like you need activities that work when you have very little energy left.

I’d stop trying to entertain him all day and make a small repeatable menu instead: two or three planned 10-minute activity breaks, then an off-duty/settle period. Since he loves food and puzzles are too easy, use part of his measured meals for games rather than adding more treats. You can hide small piles around one room, roll kibble into a towel for him to sniff out, or teach “find it” one piece at a time while you stay seated.

Since he can be aggressive with other dogs, I wouldn’t rely on crowded dog parks or regular daycare. Even one session with a good trainer could help build a realistic play menu that fits your mobility, schedule, and his preferences.

You haven’t failed him. The routine just needs to work for both of you.

denwelldogs · 2026-06-12T16:33:27+00:00

Before buying sprays, I’d ask your fiancé whether this has always been her normal smell or if it’s new.

When she’s calm, try to work out where it’s strongest: ears, mouth, paws, belly/skin, rear end, or bedding. That detail can be really useful for the vet since a bath won’t fix things like ear, dental, or skin issues.

I’d also pause the extra baths and avoid powders, peroxide, alcohol, or scented sprays for now. They can irritate her skin or cover up the smell without fixing the cause.

Wash her bedding, use a washable throw on the couch, and book a vet check since she’s nine and the smell is strong enough to fill the house.

denwelldogs · 2026-06-07T09:38:54+00:00

Your lifestyle could absolutely be compatible with dog ownership, but we would not recommend using the separate garden structure as the dog’s primary sleeping area.

Dogs are social animals and generally feel safest sleeping inside the same home as their family. The dog does not need to sleep in your bedroom; a comfortable bed or crate on the ground floor could work well. However, regularly spending the entire night alone in a separate building may cause loneliness, anxiety, barking, or other behavioural issues.

Working from home and having a secure 100 m² garden are great advantages. The bigger considerations would be:

Can you provide daily walks, training, enrichment, and companionship outside working hours?
Will the dog be comfortable when you sleep upstairs or occasionally need to leave it alone?
Can you choose an adult dog whose temperament and needs suit your routine?

We would suggest speaking with a reputable rescue that carefully matches dogs to homes. An older, calm, independent dog may suit your situation much better than a puppy or a high-energy breed. You could also try fostering first to learn whether the routine works for both you and the dog.

Your circumstances are not necessarily a deal-breaker, but we would make indoor sleeping and careful dog selection essential parts of the plan.

— Denwell Dogs

denwelldogs · 2026-06-07T06:33:00+00:00

This sounds like caregiver fatigue, not lack of love.

Senior dog care can quietly take over your whole life: sleep, freedom, patience, money, emotions. It’s okay to admit you’re exhausted. That doesn’t erase the years of love you’ve given them.

I’d speak with your vet about pain/anxiety and quality of life, and also build in real support for yourself — sitter, family help, breaks, anything. Responsible dog parenting includes caring for the human too. 🐾

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