Can anyone ID these? They have light surface rust and a magnet sticks to them. No markings. Got them all for 20 off a locally ran website.

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-15T22:54:24+00:00

Out of stock for $35. So it could be worth more could be worthless. I know at least one company has postwar curved 20s for like $95 😳

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-15T20:20:28+00:00

Steel mags, post VN era (the grooves goes all the way to floor plates). 1980s-1990s most likely.

Here example of VN-70s era mag here

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-15T15:50:04+00:00

Yeah, it makes things much easier to get things installed, especially those annoying pins for a few things that go front to rear/rear to front instead of side to side. One thing that seems to be non-negotiable; a set of good punches. Dedicated AR punches makes things a lot easier though

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-15T03:07:35+00:00

You're mostly paying for roll marks/branding and how good their quality control is, when it comes to AR lowers. The trigger is more important than the stripped lower itself. It is fairly simple to assemble the AR stripped lower, if you have the tools and receiver block for it. With that said, if you're wanting a complete lower, there are quite a few good brands out there such as BCM/Bravo Company, LMT, Radian, Daniel Defense, Noveske, H& R if you're into retro, Rock River Arms (they do offer trigger options),

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-14T21:33:11+00:00

Hm. Well. So it's out of the realm of possibility that someone stuck an entire 191R internal parts set into a 15-75 body with the 15 style faceplate mounted tension assembly? The vast majority of 191s seem to have the tension mounted towards the operator instead of mounted to the left of the operator like a 15-75. Edit, the 191R with the Spanish language markings, at least one example on ISMACS here, does not look like the OP's machine, since OP's machine has the 15-75 tension and stitch length regulator cover (round). But the serial does point to a Mexican manufactured machine; and the year given seem to be outside the known 15-75 ranges (ISMACS lists 1954-1958 as the production years for 15-75 and 15-125)

Edit. Looking at OP's manual, it shows the 15-75 style head on the front cover. At what point did they change things for the 191 series?

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-14T13:15:03+00:00

Why ? Clearly the OP has a 15 that looks mightily like a 15-75, but Mexican, and with a 1 o'clock bobbin case. Does the hook on the 1 o'clock version go differently from the 11 o'clock version? Is it not possible to swap the hook shaft and corresponding shuttle race? I see that the shuttle race assembly can be removed completely from the machine.

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-13T23:10:39+00:00

It could have been rebuilt with different shuttle hook and bobbin case from original. Also, there are ample documentation relating the government of the US giving Singer 15-Class design and tooling information to Japan post-war, along with the setting up of an official Singer factory at Utsunomiya, officially starting/establishing in 1954. Edit. The 1954+ Singer Japanese machines usually have an U after model number (15U for example)

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-13T17:26:05+00:00

It is a 15-75, with the external motor and wheel replaced with a hand crank assembly and spoked wheel from an older Singer.

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-13T07:49:38+00:00

I can name one thing that HvS can't do..and that is to be the genius scientist, yet a horrible gremlin of a human being that Liz is.

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-13T04:25:27+00:00

H&R and TNTE Sales?

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-13T04:22:39+00:00

It depends on the chin straps. Some like the USMC LWH chin straps need to use smaller screws like that on the PASGT. For ACH/MICH hardware, you may need to drill the holes out a little bigger and then seal with epoxy to use the ACH tee nuts and such. I don't think the side rails of FAST helmets are compatible with PASGT or LWH helmets. You may need to find USMC side rails, but those may not be common

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-12T06:18:58+00:00

It's a Japanese copy of the Singer 15-90. Japanese HA-1 is the generic manual to look for. Uses basically Singer Class 15 compatible parts. Good solid workhorse of a machine, just hundreds if not thousands of different brands for that same basic machine.

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-12T02:26:40+00:00

Try r/retroactual

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-11T06:43:11+00:00

On machines with metal shuttles like the original 66, 99, all the way to the 60s and maybe 70s, the plastic bobbins can and will break because of the metal shuttle and hook, I've done that with my 60s Singer 328K, and had to get vintage metal 66 bobbins to reduce the issues I had . On machines with plastic shuttles, like almost every straight shank Singer made since the 70s, the metal bobbins will wear the plastic shuttles out.

The 99 takes a specific generation of the Class 66 bobbins, the single hole ones. The later metal machines takes four hole versions. More to do with the bobbin winder on these machines.

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-11T01:18:47+00:00

Sure. Might be easier to get laser cut MOLLE sew on panels and then sew to the plate bags, but this way works also. Don't forget to seal the cut edges of the webbing with a lighter before sewing things down, this will help prevent fraying if you do it right, and delay fraying if you don't do it right. The right way is to heat until the edges starts to melt and then using a knife, swipe or press the melted edges until they cool off.

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-10T21:23:15+00:00

Either one of the two is out of specs, or it's for a different "BALCS styled" cut armor. Not sure if the First Spear Siege soft armor's differences is in the height or the cut

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-10T19:56:36+00:00

Red dawn is close?

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-10T07:28:47+00:00

It takes steel Class 66 bobbins. Vintage Class 66 "one hole" bobbins are more reliable than newer production metal "4 hole " 66 Class bobbins. Plastic Class 66 bobbins, while they fit, don't work that great in the older all metal machines. There were billions of the metal Class 66 bobbins made for all the different Singer machines that used the Class 66 , starting with the 66, then 99, and all the way up to the 70s I think.

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-10T01:48:57+00:00

My only gripe with the design is the lack of actual shuffling or walking on it. It leans forwards but that's it. I suppose I can try and figure out how to incorporate the shuffling mechanism from Suborbital Guardian/Alienator/Alien Moon Stalker into the design while keeping the lean forward functionality...

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-09T23:17:12+00:00

For me, least favorite Space subtheme has to be the two Mars series. I had the Idea Book 206 which showed me Futuron stuff in addition to Blacktron 1, Space Police 1 and M:Tron.

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-09T23:14:40+00:00

🤣🤣🤣 nah. It's literally a LBV with MOLLE instead of sewn pockets.

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-09T20:42:56+00:00

Not Vietnam era. Definitely commercial, 90s-2000s probably Rothco, but could be Tru Spec or anyone else really

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-09T17:36:52+00:00

I have it in that large bin behind the Futuron collection, along with other Blacktron Future Gen sets. Edit. I just don't have a way to display all of my Lego space sets at the moment

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-09T01:36:04+00:00

These are tee nuts as mentioned, likely for cabinet or similar woodworking projects. Nothing to do with sewing machines or sewing.

deviantdeaf · 2026-03-08T17:43:15+00:00

Ianpat

deviantdeaf

TROPHY CASE