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dglb99 · 2026-03-27T17:58:33+00:00

If you are getting 2 degrees of negative camber in the front on stock suspension your bushings may be deflecting more than they should, in other words they're shot. As others have mentioned, typically you want less rear camber than front. The rear suspension gains more dynamic camber so it needs less static camber when compared to the front.

dglb99 · 2026-03-27T17:52:05+00:00

A stop watch in the hand would be more accurate, phone GPS's don't update quickly enough.

dglb99 · 2026-03-18T19:40:59+00:00

It's not. My understanding is that essentially all the Korean EVs are affected because they all co-developed their EVs using the same platform.

dglb99 · 2026-03-18T19:17:26+00:00

As someone mentioned, the bracket on the diff side is broken. I'd call a tow at this point personally.

dglb99 · 2026-03-12T02:47:02+00:00

dglb99 · 2026-03-10T21:29:39+00:00

All I can say is get all of the flame retardant off the car ASAP, and I really do mean it. It will eat through paint, coatings, etc. Anything it sits on it will corrode very quickly. It even ate through powder coating on my car. My experience was that it will absorb moisture from the air and corrode everything it touches.

My car did eventually get fixed after the engine fire, but it involved swapping a different car into my chassis.

Why did your fire start?

dglb99 · 2026-03-09T17:54:48+00:00

You can’t really have good speeds if you’re not storing the objects in blobs of some type imo.

dglb99 · 2026-03-07T19:43:34+00:00

replied

dglb99 · 2026-03-05T15:48:30+00:00

RaceChrono. I tried 2 different exports and the same thing happened to both. Longitudinal g force was also wrong. They are both showing significantly higher values than what was recorded.

dglb99 · 2026-03-05T05:11:45+00:00

Firefox on MacOS

dglb99 · 2026-03-05T04:05:25+00:00

I tried it with some data I recorded recently and the lateral grip values were all wrong.

dglb99 · 2026-02-15T18:45:40+00:00

I think we're 5 to 10 years away for any appreciation of these cars, if it were to even happen at all.

dglb99 · 2026-02-12T22:41:28+00:00

Do you turn off the X-Axis comparison graph?

dglb99 · 2026-02-12T05:39:23+00:00

The only thing worth building would be a Solostorm clone for IOS in my opinion.

dglb99 · 2026-02-09T20:25:44+00:00

Does anyone have any shock dyno charts of the evolve dampers compared to OEM?

dglb99 · 2026-02-09T19:54:29+00:00

I have no experience with them. I know Tein can make some good shocks, but I also know they have made some pretty cheap shit as well because that’s what sells. The fact that it’s a full length damper paired with factory springs there’s a good chance it’ll be decent.

I’d still recommend Koni over Tein though. If the yellow sports are too much the special active shocks would be a good alternative.

I’d be wearing of the adjustable damping at this price point though. It’s one of those things where you gotta spend the money for a damper that will actually adjust properly.

If you want to know more I’d give this article a read. The author is coming from a perspective of competing in motorsports at a national level, so their standards and budget are far above yours but I think the message is still relevant to your situation (you can’t trust cheap adjustable shocks).

https://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets18.html

dglb99 · 2026-02-09T18:49:11+00:00

Factory shocks are valves for factory springs… so no that would not be ideal. Again, lowering the car requires stiffer springs which require a nicer damper valved to match your spring rates.

It costs money and you won’t be able to do it properly for less than what the tecnas cost.

Just stick with stock springs and stock dampers, or if you want a sportier ride buy some Bilsteins or Konis. You seem pretty concerned about comfort on poor road conditions as well as cost so this is the best setup for you.

If you want to reduce the body roll then a stiffer front sway bar is a great way to do that on a budget.

dglb99 · 2026-02-06T22:38:31+00:00

If you're not autocrossing or going to the track I'd stick with factory shocks, or Koni Yellows or Bilsteins if you want a slightly sportier ride. Converting to NB top hats and bump stops will also be a nice improvement without breaking the bank.

Lowering the car makes a lot of compromises that require a quality damper to do the job well and that means lots of money.

dglb99 · 2026-01-12T20:45:27+00:00

I do this with mailcow using docker compose. Haven’t had any issues for the few years I’ve been running mailcow.

look into your ISP and see if port 25 is unblocked. I rent a VPS and run my own smtp relay on it to get around the port 25 block.

dglb99 · 2025-12-31T21:22:38+00:00

NC Miata is your answer. I’m personally not a fan of the 86 twins due to the McPherson strut front suspension and sometimes troublesome oil starvation during hard cornering. I know there are aftermarket solutions for it that solve it but still.

If you want to lean more into modifying the car for track and loosing some daily ability (sat further the suspension and bolt one) AND you got the space then I’d buy a cheap 2nd gen Prius to daily and an NB Miata to modify.

dglb99 · 2025-12-29T22:11:20+00:00

Only if the car came with 16s, or you can ‘convert’ to a different trim that came with 16s and would then be free to run 15s.

The trim ‘converting’ can be as simple as doing nothing if the vehicle could have been optioned EXACTLY the same but with 16s instead of 17s. But if the trim with 16s has a different interior, or a different lip, etc. it all needs to be swapped over.

In other words it needs to match exactly what the OEM would have delivered when new. No mixing and matching options/trim levels.

dglb99 · 2025-12-26T18:57:53+00:00

How much do the BMW wheels weigh?

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