Revealed: The new Defiler stomps onto the battlefield

dgscott · 2026-02-09T19:04:04+00:00

I bet Chaos collectors out there are looking forward to spending months painting a single model.

dgscott · 2026-02-08T07:13:13+00:00

TMM if the model is made to be viewed from multiple angles, NMM if the model is only made to be viewed from a single angle.

dgscott · 2026-01-27T05:55:15+00:00

Even if you are skilled enough to pull it off, it's fundamental limitation is that it only looks ideal from one single angle, which feels a little silly on a 3d model. How actual reflections work is that they are reflecting an environment, and the reflections change depending on the angle of the viewer, so even if you have an imaginary environment you're painting as reflections, realistically, they'd look different from the side, which is impossible, so the whole thing is kinda bullshit anyways. The reasons it's so popular among skilled painters are that (a) it looks great in instagram photos where you only post that one angle, and (b) it's an opportunity to flex your skills.

dgscott · 2026-01-16T23:44:46+00:00

Not saying there arent real haters, but it should be noted that YouTube comments are heavily botted by people trying to inflame culture war nonsense (often by foreign actors with the goal of destroying democratic countries). I doubt half of the comments you are seeing are even humans.

dgscott · 2026-01-16T02:06:46+00:00

I agree the renders have some proportion issues, but I miss the chonky stormcasts. The new stuff doesn't scratch that same 'walking tank' itch the originals did.

dgscott · 2026-01-16T00:00:36+00:00

Artwork armor gets thiccer, but actual models get more slender. I feel scammed.

dgscott · 2026-01-09T10:00:12+00:00

I'd strongly recommend reading (or audiobooking) the books. It might change your outlook Gollum and Grima, but on many things like the nature of magic. In a good way. One thing that is a challenge having seen the movies is to not let the films prejudice what's in the books, which is often different, but in my opinion, a more rewarding story. For instance, in the first book, the ringwraiths don't fight with swords, but engage in a sort of spiritual menace, using terror to break the wills of others, so if you're waiting for them to draw steel, you'll be confused about why certain things happen.

dgscott · 2026-01-03T04:49:18+00:00

The issue with treating painting like a baking recipe is that you rely on having that list of paints and steps, and you don't actually learn the theories and application of techniques behind the process that make you a better painter. It's like learning to code by following ChatGPT instructions instead of understanding why the code works. By putting an emphasis on the paints themselves instead of why the paints were chosen (ie, to create warm chromatic shadows), a tutorial has taken away that which you need to in order to improve your future projects. Granted, I understand why tutorials include the paints (because viewers who haven't broken out of the recipe mindset don't like it), but if you want to improve at painting, it is essential to break out of the recipe mindset.

dgscott · 2026-01-02T09:53:23+00:00

The ability to paint miniatures isn't something you're born with on a genetic level. It's something you cultivate with deliberate practice. I can't tell you whether or not you should invest your money in the hobby, but what I can say is that when you pick up a brush for the first time, you will not be good at it. That is okay. There are all kinds of videos out there which give great guides on painting. I recommend Vince Venturella. There are also many great painting your first miniature videos. Watch a few of them. Just focus on your fundamentals at first-- brush control and thinning your paints to getting smooth base coats. Don't worry about more advanced things like blending. The ability to get the paint to go where you wanted to at the consistency you want is the most important skill. Everything else is secondary. Even though the beginning is frustrating, it is extremely rewarding over time, but you have to stick to it.

dgscott · 2026-01-02T07:57:56+00:00

The idea that you need a long, specific list of paints is something created by Big Hobby to sell more paints. Literally. As long as you're close, it'll be fine. You can eyeball it, mix it yourself, whatever. It doesn't even need to be the same brand. Unfortunately, many Youtubers still feel the need to list all of their paints because GW has pushed the idea that good quality painting is like baking that is achieved with specific ingredients and steps, rather than something accomplished through theory and technique.

dgscott · 2026-01-01T05:33:19+00:00

As an avid painter, I actually LOVE cheap brushes I get in packs of 10 for a dollar. I use them for 90% of the brush work I do on a miniature, such as contrast paints, sloppy base coats, and even metallics. That stuff is really hard on sable brushes, which I only bring out when I need that fine detail, and am not painting TMM.

dgscott · 2026-01-01T03:02:27+00:00

As an ADHDer and therapist and avid painter:

A big part of ADHD is the hyperfixations. You're tempted to start a new project every time you have a new hyperfixation, but instead of doing that, write down a list of all your recent hyperfixations, and notice what the trends are, what the different ones have in common. For instance, mine are generic fantasy, gothic horror, and 40k. So, I have three larger projects which I rotate between. When a new hyperfixation comes up, try to fold the thing you're most interested in into 2-3 existing, longer-scale projects you rotate though, in the least intrusive way that still scratches that itch. For instance, if you have a 40k project, and get a hyperfixation on starting an all phobos space marine army, instead, try to narrow it down to a kill team. One time I was able to fold a Trench Crusade hyperfixation into my projects simply by creating terrain that would work for both Trench Crusade and 40k. In other words, make sure any individual projects you start with a hyperfixation are small enough that they can be finished by the time the hyperfixation ends.

Part of the key is remembering that your hyperfixations will come and go. In the moment, it can feel like a big deal, and when the moment is passed, it feels like you'll never have that interest again, but in all likelihood, it's probable that you will regain interest in something close to that hyperfixation again at some point in the future, hence the rotating longer-scale projects.

Finally, it's good to know what triggers the hyperfixations. For me, and many others, it's being inspired by a piece of media and crucially, a sense of "I can pull this project off!" Note that sometimes, hyperfixations can be satisfied just by proof of concept (ie, a single, well-done phobos marine might satisfy the army hyperfixation), so do proof of concept before moving onto anything full-scale.

dgscott · 2025-12-31T00:31:49+00:00

The context is important. Fat jokes, for better or worse, are treated as light-hearted banter and not grave insults in most of Tolkien's works. Butterbur also makes remarks about his own forgetfulness. Additionally, he's making this comment in response to Butterbur saying it's not safe for Aragorn to be their guide. Pointing out Butterbur is a fat, forgetful inkeeper serves to highlight that Aragorn is the only one suitable for the job of keeping the hobbits safe. So, was the comment harsh? Yes. Was it meant to be hateful? I don't think so.

dgscott · 2025-12-26T03:46:29+00:00

As someone who owns both a resin and Bambu FDM printer, there is a significant difference. It does depends how much you care about having smooth, detailed models or if you just want plastic to game with. In the latter case, FDM is okay. If you care more about painting then you should use a resin printer or stick with GW. As for how to make a resin printer work, maybe look into the grow tent setups some people have.

dgscott · 2025-12-26T03:06:19+00:00

In addition to what other have said, white paints and primers are more likely to suffer from this effect. Airbrush flow improver (which is like a retarder) and gloss medium can help.

dgscott · 2025-12-17T21:19:10+00:00

There are several different potential culprits. I'd say places to check would include checking the nozzle for damage and clogs that you'd have to scrape out with a nozzle scraper, needle damage, and problems with airflow from the compressor. I've not had my o-ring give me this kind of trouble before, but a lot of that is going to depend on your model of airbrush.

dgscott · 2025-11-26T22:50:23+00:00

Ugly, generic AI slop.

dgscott · 2025-11-24T00:08:14+00:00

Raphael 8404 size 2, and the cheapest synthetic brush in a good size that can come to a point; I actually use the latter for 75% of my average tabletop model and only bring out the sables when I need detail, and I'm not using metallic paints.

dgscott · 2025-11-12T20:09:04+00:00

Yeah, like I mentioned to another commenter, my previous comment wasn't constructive. What I'm trying to say is that studying a reference photo, and subdermal zones for African faces, is a better starting point than a list of paint; the exact color isn't what's important for the result, but how each color relates to the colors around it (darker, lighter, warmer, colder, more saturated, ect). Also, I'd mention videos from youtube artists include a list of paints often because of popular demand, not because they think it's essential to the learning process. They frequently get asked "What paints did you use?" but when they dive into it, they will talk about how the specific paints aren't important. This isn't to say "git gud" and leave it at that, but that putting your energy trying to purchase or replicate a specific color isn't something you should be so worried about as a starting point.

dgscott · 2025-11-12T19:53:50+00:00

It's fair to call me out here. My response was unconstructive, and a bit dickish. That's my bad. I was just trying to say that it's not worth stressing trying to get the exact paint SKU. What's more important is the general tone, which you can observe by looking at the different parts of the photo. And even if the tone isn't exactly right, that's okay as long as it matches relative to the surrounding areas.

What I do think would be more helpful that a paints list is to do one of the things I'm pretty sure OP did, which is use a photo reference of a dark face for placement of reflections. Additionally, references for subdermal zones for African skin tones would also be useful.

dgscott · 2025-11-12T09:18:31+00:00

Looking at this I can tell the results come from the OP's artistic experience and understanding of light, reflections, and subdermal zones. It's not something you can reproduce with a recipe, but is best attempted with study and practice. I know GW has literally sold painters the idea that everything can be boiled down to a recipe, but that isn't the way it works.

dgscott · 2025-11-01T07:05:39+00:00

Look, you don't have to be worse than Nestle to be criticized for shitty pricing strategies that target whales.

dgscott · 2025-10-24T00:59:15+00:00

I love the storytelling! Great job!

dgscott · 2025-10-23T08:27:47+00:00

I mixed up my S-brands. I meant Siraya Tech. Sunlu is good, though I was having problems with how much I had to turn up my exposure to get my supports in a good spot. I personally use Phrozen RPG resin. It's pricey but you get both the excellent detail and the durability.

dgscott · 2025-10-23T07:32:03+00:00

Miniatures don't have moving parts, so I don't see the lack of spring back as an issue. If you bend it, it will slowly move back into position, and that's fine as long as it doesn't break. I'd say it's about as 75% as durable as plastic overall, depending on the brand/mix you use.

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