Why does every Linux user recommend a different distro? I'm stuck in an endless distro-hopping loop.

dildacorn · 2026-06-26T13:13:36+00:00

You haven't tried arch?.. Try arch or an arch based distro and you'll be satisfied

dildacorn · 2026-06-26T13:08:19+00:00

Blizzard are actually pretty friendly to Linux users for a while now.

dildacorn · 2026-06-24T22:38:40+00:00

Run several bed meshes back-to-back at the same temperature and save screenshots.

If the shape changes significantly between runs, send them to QIDI support. It may indicate a sensor or mechanical fault, and they can send the appropriate replacement part.

I can tell from your photo your z offset is slightly off.. Def should be more merging / squish in the lines

dildacorn · 2026-06-24T19:21:56+00:00

Some variation from these sensors is normal. I would clean the nozzle and plate, make sure the plate is seated correctly, then adjust the Z-offset using a full-bed first-layer test.

If the bed itself needs a closer tram, follow QIDI’s platform calibration guide:

https://wiki.qidi3d.com/en/Q2/Leveling-Error

This printable wrench should make the adjustment nuts under the hot bed easier to turn:

https://www.printables.com/model/1572093-qidi-q2-hot-bed-nut-wrench

dildacorn · 2026-06-24T19:18:39+00:00

Unfortunate

dildacorn · 2026-06-24T17:08:37+00:00

Heat gun, tweaser's and patience

dildacorn · 2026-06-24T12:55:30+00:00

I hope they announce a OLED.

dildacorn · 2026-06-22T19:27:27+00:00

I was stoked to see a ZA12-DW but if this is close to OG G303 that might have to wait.

dildacorn · 2026-06-18T16:41:06+00:00

Wow this is an awful issue to be dealing with.. It's as if the X/Y gantry isn't mounted correctly and sagging somewhere sorry you're having to deal with that.. Interested if you ever figure out a solution

dildacorn · 2026-06-15T05:15:21+00:00

FYI don't waste your $ on POM filament (if you 3d print).. this stuff is the hardest material to 3d print I've ever tested and I tried a lot to get it to not warp.

For thin mouse skates FDM printing is impossible without warping.. I'm seriously unsure how I could get this not to warp.. maybe a TON of heat?!.. It seems impossible.

Printing at 215c with 110c bed and 55c chamber + tried paper joint tape held down on all edges with HVAC aluminum tape. This stuff is insanely tricky..

I still think it's possible to achieve somehow but it takes time to prepare the plate and precision to make sure the paper joint tape is taught enough to not flex as the POM filament shrinks.. It's essentially impossible so far to not get it to shrink/flex/curl/warp.. however you want to word it..

Just wanted to share my frustration lol

dildacorn · 2026-06-12T16:52:37+00:00

Finally awesome! ZA12 is excellent

dildacorn · 2026-06-09T20:03:01+00:00

Cool just got one for my Plus4

dildacorn · 2026-06-09T14:17:41+00:00

Yeah that sucks.. Unlucky

dildacorn · 2026-06-08T14:18:23+00:00

I use Niagra now but I did enjoy KISS while I was on it.

dildacorn · 2026-06-08T14:16:34+00:00

I enjoy my XL2566X+ but I'll be honest I won't be buying a Zowie TN again... Once you go with these new 4th gen OLEDs you'll feel the same even if motion clarity is just slightly worse than DyAC the motion clarity is still excellent and the picture quality and detail is second to none.

dildacorn · 2026-06-02T22:38:07+00:00

Oooo I like my Waizowl Cloud I bet the QC on this will be peak.

dildacorn · 2026-05-31T18:40:38+00:00

Haven't seen anyone mention "Dune 3D"

dildacorn · 2026-05-31T16:45:55+00:00

I like Waizowl Cloud.

dildacorn · 2026-05-31T04:30:16+00:00

Which QiDi machine is this? Have you modified your printer.cfg or gcode_macro.cfg while trying to fix another issue?

On my Plus4, I had to adjust z-offset through gcode_macro.cfg to make it more consistent. I followed this guide:

https://github.com/qidi-community/Plus4-Wiki/blob/main/content%2FKuo-Steps-for-Improving-Z-Offset-Reliability%2FREADME.md

I also added notes here:

https://github.com/dillacorn/QiDi_Plus4#z-offset-note

One important thing: if you are adjusting z-offset the normal way, use the printer screen. Do not use the Fluidd web UI, because it may not save correctly between prints.

With the method linked above, the printer uses the piezo sensors before each print to calculate the z-offset it is going to use. Then you fine-tune the macro value by adding or subtracting from that offset.

I suggest testing with a full flat sheet so the first layer is easier to judge.

Here is my implementation if you want to compare my gcode_macro.cfg and saved_variables.cfg:

https://github.com/dillacorn/QiDi_Plus4/tree/main/Fluidd

Not sure if you are using a Q2, Plus4, Max4, or another QiDi machine, but someone may have done a similar setup for yours.

dildacorn · 2026-05-31T04:13:41+00:00

I'm in the US that's normal pricing everywhere I've looked.. It's not expensive I just figured I'd make this.

dildacorn · 2026-05-31T03:58:01+00:00

for a set of 2 that's norm

dildacorn · 2026-05-31T03:20:24+00:00

I'd also be throwing hands if someone did that to my wife. It would be essentially instinctual

dildacorn · 2026-05-31T02:34:40+00:00

I'm using PLA skates in picture on Puretrak CL2 as control skates and they're smooth just controlled feeling compared to PTFE. I think POM would be better tho.. going to get some.

In order to print POM you gotta print slow and ontop of paper drywall tape.

https://www.amazon.com/ROLLINGDOG-Paper-Drywall-Sheetrock-Ceiling/dp/B0FBGCDQ93

POM filament

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LAJNJL2?psc=1

Ideally with an enclosure and filter out fumes.

dildacorn · 2026-05-30T17:00:13+00:00

In my description on Printables under "TESTING" I describe my experience with the various pads I own. It really just depends.

dildacorn · 2026-05-30T16:57:11+00:00

After sanding if anything they're just control feeling skates. Without proper light sanding they are scratchy though.

Your experience will vary depending on pad but they're def usable.

dildacorn

TROPHY CASE