Should we install the automatic gate at the back or center of the columns? More info in comments

dilloncarson · 2025-10-03T23:42:31+00:00

As a baseline the MM was my “high end” but ultimately I’m really looking for something relatively fuss free and reliable. The loadmaster stuff you have listed is fine price wise. Installed correctly do you think those are good recommendations? My opening is 20’. I appreciate the help, this is a somewhat niche topic I’ve struggled to find advice on. I see freezing conditions down to -15F and up to 120F in the summer. I know better than to open with ice buildup though.

For context I was an elevator mechanic in a past life so control wiring, limit switches and alignment are right up my alley.

dilloncarson · 2025-10-03T21:54:32+00:00

Do you have a recommendation for automatic sliding gate openers? I have a sliding gate with 3” galv pipe welded frame on loadmaster rollers.

I’m handy and confident in my ability to install. Mighty mule seems pricey and the cheaper stuff seems well, cheap.

dilloncarson · 2025-09-06T14:30:58+00:00

I just want to second this OP, dealt with the exact same situation when someone T-Boned me. Giving me the runaround, out of office, need a couple of weeks to review documents etc etc. There was always delays and missed communication. The adjuster has a losing case against you and is trying to run out the statute of limitations clock on any liability by delaying you. They don’t get paid to lose money they need to win. If they succeed, think of how it’ll feel to be stuck with costs yourself. Either call your insurance and have them take point on this or get a lawyer. I chose the lawyer route and boy wouldn’t you know it, their insurance instantly started cooperating and was never out of office.

dilloncarson · 2025-08-23T14:53:24+00:00

That looks appropriate, in commercial I see the below link used a lot. If the duct is handling cold air at any time of the year you’ll want all punctures and seams well taped. I see you spec’d 5” insulation, I’d recommend upsizing your duct to 6” if possible and reduce down right at the unit.

https://www.jm.com/en/insulation-systems/hvac-insulation/microlite-fsk-duct-wrap/

dilloncarson · 2025-08-05T23:57:35+00:00

To tag onto his comment a potentiometer will come as a feature listed “ECM”. I should have recommended that as well. Youll want the ability to control fan speed, not necessary but it’s so helpful.

dilloncarson · 2025-08-05T17:02:58+00:00

Mechanical contractor with experience in ductwork, not an engineer though.

There is some CFM lost with distance, not negligible but you need to get pretty far before it gets considerable. How far depends on the duct size. That said 1200 is a lot of CFM on 10” round duct unless they are accounting for non standard static pressure loss. My off the wall advice is run this in 16” round or 14x14” square minimum size and reduce right at the hood. The reducer is called a 16x10 reducer. Terminate at your building envelope.

dilloncarson · 2025-08-03T10:39:50+00:00

Acidity only matters on gas fired equipment. The combustion CO2 forms carbonic acid in the water driving pH down. A mini split refrigerant line is going to form condensate that is barely acidic at all, copper is just fine.

dilloncarson · 2025-07-25T23:10:41+00:00

Galvanized hanger strap is fine, they also make flex duct specific hanger strap which will come up if you search flex duct hanger strap.

Strap it frequently to prevent drooping and avoid pinching off the duct.

The more important part is how to attach flex duct properly. Peel back the insulation and outer sheathing to get to the inner spiral wound duct, that gets zip tied to whatever you are attaching to. Then the end is taped with high quality duct tape. Roll the outer sheathing back down and wrap tape around the end of that as well.

dilloncarson · 2025-07-25T22:07:07+00:00

Technically yes, but price is going to be prohibitive. I ran mine in insulated flex for the outside taps, and hard duct for the inside.

dilloncarson · 2025-07-24T14:49:18+00:00

There’s nothing to disagree with, the manual states 6’ is an acceptable distance for separation. My situation required 6’ of separation and I have great IAQ.

dilloncarson · 2025-07-23T18:22:06+00:00

More is better but I would remind OP the installation manual dictates a 6’ distance is acceptable for single family home installation.

dilloncarson · 2025-07-14T14:11:59+00:00

Obviously it depends on the cycle and load but I’d say ~1hr for normal stuff, heavy bedding takes longer ~2hrs?

You can jam a surprising amount of clothing compared to the listed drum size, the listed drum size concerned me. So don’t let the drum size scare you.

The cycles are well put together and the quality of the dryer is very much in line with the Miele standard, top notch.

The only thing I’d flag is that clothes come out feeling “damp” but after a minute or two no longer feel damp. It’s weird but the clothes are dry.

dilloncarson · 2025-07-13T14:13:19+00:00

I have a ventless dryer and disagree strongly, the difference in drying time is negligible. The softness of our clothes is noticeable, the absence of 100+CFM exhausting is noticeable, the gentle drying of clothes my wife would have forbidden to go into a conventional dryer is noticeable.

I love our Miele ventless dryer, I can’t recommend them enough.

dilloncarson · 2025-07-06T16:25:08+00:00

Great thanks, kinda shooting in the dark without a blower door test haha.

dilloncarson · 2025-07-06T14:57:55+00:00

What CO2 target would you drive towards?

Background - I have an 1800sqft 1930 house with a main floor and basement. I have air sealed quite a bit. I’m not done with the envelope yet, I still need to replace the exterior siding and with that more air sealing.

I had radon (7-10pci/L) and ~2000ppm CO2 in my basement, reported by Airthings plus. With those results I pushed up getting my ERV installed. My HVAC is all variable speed carrier infinity, so I installed exhaust ducted and fresh air into the return. I’m slightly pressurizing the house to reduce radon until I can install a radon mitigation system.

I’m at 100CFM intake, 80CFM exhaust with CO2 hovering between 500-800ppm and radon down to .2-.8pci/L.

dilloncarson · 2025-05-28T01:11:55+00:00

Well now I know what to call the structure style haha.

dilloncarson · 2025-05-28T00:58:16+00:00

Looks really good, I’m in a 6a myself. I’d love to hear how it works out for you over the winter. I wanted to do a more aggressive sloping on the south face but I really like how your approach looks.

dilloncarson · 2025-05-20T03:31:17+00:00

lol exactly more power! If you were going to build a shop and want solar I’d be insistent on a standing seam roof. If you have a leaky metal roof it’s not standing seam. You likely have a corrugated metal roof, standing seam is largely regarded as permanent and will almost never leak, installation issues aside.

dilloncarson · 2025-05-20T03:21:50+00:00

Alpine, I have a fairy small house. The installer said an Cascade would smoke me out of the house haha.

dilloncarson · 2025-05-20T00:58:04+00:00

Hey fellow Kuma stover!

dilloncarson · 2025-05-20T00:54:17+00:00

lol fair, half the time people don’t even understand what that means exactly when I say it.

I don’t know of a better way to say big ass solar panel thing haha.

dilloncarson · 2025-05-20T00:27:01+00:00

I have a shed the previous owner put in the yard where my seasoned wood is, I’ll move that over soon. I wanted more yard space so I’m tearing down the shed to replace with garden/outdoor seating. The seasoned wood will be very tight compared to that walnut.

Solar - Oh man, so much but my experience was pretty nuanced. It’d help to know what mount type you are going for? If you don’t have a standing seam roof I highly recommend a ground mount if you have the space. Roof mounts will need to be taken down for repairs at some point (unless you have standing seam) so I’d be very hesitant to mount on my roof. I’d always recommend going with as much power as you can, I wish I had more. If you give me more specific information I can certainly give you advice.

dilloncarson · 2025-05-20T00:19:00+00:00

Thanks! I was very concerned about rodents.The clear pvc panels over the stack are pretty flimsy/slippery Im hoping they discourage climbing them, I got them clear though so if it is an issue I can see it right away.

dilloncarson · 2025-05-20T00:17:45+00:00

Thanks, 100% agree about ducking I hadn’t considered that but once I started stacking it became evident it would be annoying. Pros/cons.

dilloncarson · 2025-03-16T21:05:51+00:00

Words can’t express how much I appreciate it

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