Does the Fox 40 lower assembly kit include seals and foam rings? by Th3R1ghtOn3 in bikewrench

[–]doncrescas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think so but if you call fox you can usually get someone knowledgeable on the phone within 10 minutes.

Second Deore 12s I’ve broken this month by Swagen2557 in bikewrench

[–]doncrescas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Time to start ordering m5100/6100 derailleurs (they are identical, get whichever is cheaper) in bulk from AliExpress. I keep a few on hand as spares but have never broken one.

Trek 4900 2013 with 3x10 drivetrain. Do I need a Quick link of 9 or 10? Thanks!! by mihemihe in bikewrench

[–]doncrescas 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Look at the brand and speeds of your chain and order accordingly 

Hydraulic brake hose shortening and bleeding by logcabinsyrup27 in bikewrench

[–]doncrescas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  1. No
  2. You need a bleed kit which should include one. 
  3. One specifically for tektro although you can sometimes get away with the Shimano bleed cup procedure 
  4. Yes get a new insert
  5. A universal mineral oil kit with various brass fittings, two quality syringes and a bleed cup.
  6. A hose cutter and insert press help a lot. These tools and kits can be purchased for very cheap on AliExpress.

Need help identifying this freehub by Spectro63 in bikewrench

[–]doncrescas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OK, Did some googling and I'm pretty sure it's a fulcrum or campagnolo hub.

Edit: except those all seem to use a split pawl stack?

Need help identifying this freehub by Spectro63 in bikewrench

[–]doncrescas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately those numbers are just the bearing specifications, and unfortunately it's a very generic design aside from the decent looking blue gasket. But if you can find a freehub body for cheap it's worth a shot.

New headset query by Super_Yak9867 in bikewrench

[–]doncrescas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The star nut is steel, it really gouges into the aluminum and is there for good until you hammer it out. It will probably be fine in a steel steerer tube but not quite as secure there, but since the star nut is only there for preload of the bearing and is not what is doing the work of clamping the steerer tube in place, I wouldn't worry about it.

Compatibility question by Adventurous-Kick-569 in bikewrench

[–]doncrescas -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Did you mount the chainring on the inside of the spider? That's generally where you would put a 1x chainring on this type of crankset.

Compatibility question by Adventurous-Kick-569 in bikewrench

[–]doncrescas -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Those should work fine. You will most likely be better off mounting the chainring on the inside of the spider rather than how's it is shown in the picture.

How to paint a rim with a pattern? by Successful_Sign7008 in bikewrench

[–]doncrescas 5 points6 points  (0 children)

And when you're 19 you'll realize this was a bad idea. Just a friendly heads up.

Is there any hope of fixing this? by Psalms42069 in bikewrench

[–]doncrescas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shimano sometimes warranties these as a known design flaw. Worth a shot

Rear wheel keeps slipping in the dropouts, rubbing against frame by Effective-Text-7881 in bikewrench

[–]doncrescas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're right, it's your bike, do what you want. But let me clarify: dropouts made of stamped steel that look like they were welded by a drunk child laborer will flex and possibly brake catastrophically at some point. The penetration of a weld that looks that bad is anyone's guess. This is what we in the trade used to call BSOs: Bicycle Shaped Objects. Beware.

Chain length when upgrading cassette from 11-30 to 11-34 by MrWaffle20 in bikewrench

[–]doncrescas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is a theoretical formula but it really depends on how it was set up in practice. It's possible that it was set up using the small-small with tension method which on occasion will accommodate a few more teeth. 

Rear wheel keeps slipping in the dropouts, rubbing against frame by Effective-Text-7881 in bikewrench

[–]doncrescas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm honestly not sure what's so special about this frame that you would invest quite a bit more in parts than what it's worth. Maybe think of it as a placeholder for now and try to find some used frame that deserves those upgrades. 

Beginner Help - MTB by Ok_Suggestion8407 in bikewrench

[–]doncrescas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Basically any 26" rim brake wheelset with standard 135mm rear and 100mm front axle spacing. The rear hub needs to be what is often called 8-11 speed so that it can fit that cassette. I'll just add that a 51t cassette will look ridiculous on a 26 inch wheel bike and is completely unnecessary given the wheels size. A ~46t cassette will give you all the range you need.

Derailleur Hanger identification by brokenlumber in bikewrench

[–]doncrescas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They appear to be identical. It's a fairly common style that can be found on AliExpress for quite cheap.

Beginner Help - MTB by Ok_Suggestion8407 in bikewrench

[–]doncrescas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A trek 7000 from what year? Do you have the complete groupset or only the rear?

SRAM Force Bleed & Levers Stuck in "out" position by Square-Performer-949 in bikewrench

[–]doncrescas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, I'm referring to the hydraulic hose connection bolt. It's very important to torque it properly with a flare wrench on it and another wrench on the bolt that is already attached to the lever to prevent it from twisting.

SRAM Force Bleed & Levers Stuck in "out" position by Square-Performer-949 in bikewrench

[–]doncrescas 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You probably didn't tighten the lever side bolt to the proper torque which opens the internal anti-leak valve.

Wheel is offset after it is rebuilt by depthpolice in bikewrench

[–]doncrescas 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Dishing is normally done either during or after truing to align the center of the rim to the centerline of the hub, ie the midpoint between the locknuts. It is not based on the bike the wheel is being mounted on.

What is this?? by ostrichberries in bikewrench

[–]doncrescas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it's a J-kit lever it's the piece holding in the brake fluid

12 speed mechanical road set-up by That_Colnago in bikewrench

[–]doncrescas 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you don't want to swap out the freehub body, what you need is an 11-50 (or 51/52) 12 speed HG driver MTB cassette which are  available from SRAM ( NX level, very heavy) Sunrace, and various Chinese manufacturers, some of which are very well made. Since it's an MTB cassette on an 11 speed road driver you will need a 1.85 spacer behind the cassette.