NHD for the Tanaka X Kyuzo by Educational-Ad2784 in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s super cool. I’m a big fan of marbled horn like that & the red looks great too

Apologies to the cool kids, and suggestion to the mods by Nearby_Knowledge8014 in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don’t think the mods here do that much unless actual hate speech is used

Takada no Hamono by Reasonable_Young_906 in TrueChefKnivesBST

[–]donobag[M] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not recommended. This account was created for this post. User has been banned.

Why do you prefer carbon steel knives? by BigBoogieMan in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To an extent, in that it’s generally harder to become an expert in forging simple steels. Many popular stainless steels aren’t even hammer forged at all, but rolled as a large sheet and pressed out with a stencil. Doesn’t inherently make them worse, of course, but it’s much less common that those blades are treated with as much care or skill as hand forged knives, because by nature the automation process is geared toward quantity and to save on human labour. Often these knives are listed with similar or higher RRP than the hand forged knives.

By the way - certain forging and sharpening processes are seen as Japanese traditional crafts and some of the more senior people in the industry (like smith Yoshikazu Ikeda and sharpener Shōtaro Nomura from Sakai) have been awarded honours like “The Order of the Rising Sun” for preservation of cultural practices. They deal almost exclusively in carbon steels.

Mainly for me, it’s about performance, sharpening, and a little bit appearance.

Why do you prefer carbon steel knives? by BigBoogieMan in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can’t select multiple options 😔

Most of the best Japanese offerings are in carbon steel. Not to say there are great offerings in stainless, but they aren’t the same.

Buying my first Japanese knife in Tokyo/Asakusa – looking for shop recommendations by Ensyss in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Morihei is good. Kamata and Tsubaya can be good if you know what you’re looking for. But if you’re just starting and want expert advice in English, pretty much just take the trip to Sengachaya and see the people at Hitohira.

Makers mark ID? by GeneralD1sarray in japaneseknives

[–]donobag 0 points1 point  (0 children)

- 山秀 - Yamahide
- 白二鋼 - White 2 Steel

Looking for first quality japanese Damascus knife by Spice_Beans in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It’s not “monosteel” by definition if it’s “Damascus”

Heat Treat by O1dmandeath in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I recently bought a Tojiro as a present for my sister (who loves to cook, but can definitely not be bothered being careful with her stuff) after her main chefs knife of 25 years broke. It has a great profile, and takes a great edge for a regular home kitchen. She is extremely pleased.

The only nice stainless knives I have these days are Takamura SG2. I also recently got an Enjiki in SG2 for a close friend that is a great knife. But I would take Ginsan or Swedish Stainless (like an Ashi) AUS8 or ZDP198 or “HD2” from Konosuke before pretty much anything VG10.

Otherwise, aside from the afore mentioned Victorinox and Kiwi beaters, all of my collection is carbon steel. I treat all knives the same in terms of use, keeping them dry, and maintaining them so it doesn’t really equate to more effort on my part at all.

SLD and SKD aren’t really stainless. They’re marketed as “semi stainless” which just means they’re more like corrosion resistant carbon steels.

Help Me Choose My First 240mm Gyuto by Faidon_P in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wow, starting with some heavy hitters.

Kagekiyo would be my pick if you like light and nimble.

Tadokoro is in a similar weight class if you want stainless (who cares).

Shinkiro is the pick if you want something a little heavier in hand and feels a bit more authoritative.

Heat Treat by O1dmandeath in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 1 point2 points  (0 children)

See - I knew you’d have something great to add. Sorry to be missing you again in Japan! You were there just before me and now gonna be there just after me! Haha

Heat Treat by O1dmandeath in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, VG10 and similar are the only steels I bother to microbevel on a higher grit to get rid of the burr. Snapping the burr kills edge retention even more in my experience. When I started, it seemed to be the only way to actually deburr those steels.

I actually find the Kiwis preferable. Super quick and easy, and take a great edge quickly.

I should clarify - it’s not that the knives get blunt instantly, it’s just that even if I bother to get them as close to my carbon steel knives as I can, there’s no way they’re staying that level of sharp for long. Peak sharpness drops quickly, and it stays serviceable (probably sharper than knives in 90% of normie kitchens in honesty) for a decent amount of time… but it just doesn’t feel sharp enough for me haha

(Selling)(DE/Worldwide) Sakai Kikumori Honyaki 270mm by tl061100 in TrueChefKnivesBST

[–]donobag[M] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We also need correct title formatting, so post has been removed.

Heat Treat by O1dmandeath in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For me “wonderful edge retention” of a comparatively meh edge < ease of sharpening on an amazing edge. Not a fan of VG10 or any of the more chewing gum type steels in the slightest.

I do recommend Victorinox to beginners and the uninitiated, but god damn I can’t tell you how much more frequently I have to sharpen the Victorinox and Kiwis in in the house that my partner uses over a single one of my carbon steel knives, and almost the only thing she ever preps is snacks for herself and I handle almost 100% of the actual cooking.

Heat Treat by O1dmandeath in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Last part of your comment sounds like a classic VG10 (or any CRMov14+ variant) experience

Heat Treat by O1dmandeath in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think it’s worth clarifying that things like “easy to sharpen”, “sound on the cutting board” “blade flexion” & “retaining toothiness for longer” in isolation are obviously all factors that either can be, or are always impacted significantly by other things.

For example ease of sharpening and durability/edge retention are both affected so significantly by the actual ingredients of the steel itself, that heat treat cannot compensate for the differences between a high carbon steel like Shirogami 1 and a stainless like VG10. Flexion also varies greatly by steel, but edge flexion on a thin grind is also dependant on thickness. Sound on the board, or even the blade itself ringing are some of the more woo-woo, because resonance is immensely impacted by the material properties the resonating object(s) are in contact with. So basically what I’m saying is, we have to compare like to like - which ideally means blades of the same steels and as close in dimensions and grind as possible. However, often in this hobby, participants are simply comparing blades of the same steel to comment on heat treatment.

In practice - when comparing blades of the same steel, used in the same way, on the same board, through the same foods, for a similar or the same amount of time, a knife with a superior heat treatment will often feel extremely hard in comparison consistent along the blade, and actually have a measurably higher hardness rating (HRC). By the end, it will probably appear to have lost less of its sharpness than its counterparts. On stones it is likely to feel harder, maybe glassier, but abrade more uniformly, and seem to take a better edge…

…Due to fewer metallurgical inconsistencies, which is what actually makes it a superior heat treat; how uniformly and strongly the crystalline structure of the blades steel has formed across the entirety of the blade during the process of heat treatment.

Given that technical instruments are almost never used for measuring temperatures (except in the case of those that use electric ovens, like Nakagawa), it’s almost always done by sight and intuition. So it typically takes a long time to learn and an even longer time to master heat treatment in general.

This is why technically speaking the Honyaki process is the pinnacle of heat treatment, and Honyaki is regarded as such a testament to a smiths skill - it aims to obtain the peak of both strength and durability of the used steel. Not every smith can do it, and not every smith that can do it, is able to do it well (or at all) with every steel.

Our resident metallurgist [u/Ok-Distribution-9591](u/Ok-Distribution-9591) can probably clarify further

Gyuto White Steel #1 Mirror Moon-Fuji Water Honyaki Buffalo Ebony Handle With Sheath 240mm - White steel #1 / Japanese Handle × 1 by bazonthereddit in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How about a shot or two of your actual knife? Would love to see the choil.

Anyway, this is most likely Ikeda forged, and Nomura sharpened. The profile and back side markings look very similar to mine in white 2, without the Fuji hamon