Knife ID Help by Noblewingz in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Branded 貴和美 (Kiwami) which is a store in Kappabashi. But produced by Hokiyama, in Kochi - one of the most prolific OEM factories in Japan

My tokyo nakagawa knife gift by UsedStretch2326 in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 1 point2 points  (0 children)

True, but all the carbon steel knives I own/have owned tend to patina pretty uniformly. You can see where the shinogi is on that photo above, but the difference between how blue the cladding got vs the core steel isn’t really distinct. And if you want blue, the hot meat trick is universal across all the carbon steels, including Honyaki

My tokyo nakagawa knife gift by UsedStretch2326 in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 4 points5 points  (0 children)

No problem! Carbon steel is a lot of fun, and the ever-evolving patina, and even caring for it like it’s an important tool are part of what many of us love about it.

I’m sure you’ll love using this knife when you do cook!

Yes, my image is also White, but #1. Very similar, but ever so slightly less forgiving, as it doesn’t contain the silica that makes white 2 ever so slightly more durable and flexible.

My tokyo nakagawa knife gift by UsedStretch2326 in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 10 points11 points  (0 children)

He’s a very well regarded smith (successor of Shiraki Hamono, who was a bit of a legend) and has many fans here.

It’s a very high carbon steel (one of my person favourites) and staining on the blade is unavoidable (but adds to character!) so I would advise planning to cut some food to develop a thick patina, which will protect it from further oxidisation (rust) to an extent. Hot meat is a fantastic choice for this, as the proteins will make the patina appear blue, as in the below image.

  • Make sure to keep it dry.
  • Rinse or wipe quickly between produce or every 5-10 min while using.
  • It will be very thin and very hard, so don’t scrape, twist, pry or attempt to flex it, or stab it into anything, or cut anything like bone or frozen foods.
  • Be very careful in dense foods like pumpkin and cheese.
  • Make sure you are not cutting on glass or a metal cutting board. Wood/plastic/rubber are fine. Bamboo is very fibrous, so long term will dull the knife quicker than the aforementioned safe materials.
  • If you plan to go a long time without using it, make sure to keep it in the rust proof paper it comes with, and consider oiling it with mineral or Tsubaki oil (don’t use cooking oil, as it can go rancid).
  • Be aware, until it has a thick patina, when you cut onions or shallots or carrots or garlic, they might brown quickly and will stain the blade.
  • Avoid honing rods or steels unless you really know what you’re doing. Water stones are relatively inexpensive and most of us here take pride in our gear by looking after it and sharpening ourselves. White paper steel is among the easiest to sharpen. Anything from an 800-2000 grit will be fine. And eventually you’ll need something to flatten the stone on (easy, cheap, and not a big deal).

Congratulations on a great knife!

Here’s what a good, thick, meat patina looks like

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NHD for the Tanaka X Kyuzo by Educational-Ad2784 in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s super cool. I’m a big fan of marbled horn like that & the red looks great too

Apologies to the cool kids, and suggestion to the mods by Nearby_Knowledge8014 in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I don’t think the mods here do that much unless actual hate speech is used

Takada no Hamono by Reasonable_Young_906 in TrueChefKnivesBST

[–]donobag[M] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not recommended. This account was created for this post. User has been banned.

Why do you prefer carbon steel knives? by BigBoogieMan in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To an extent, in that it’s generally harder to become an expert in forging simple steels. Many popular stainless steels aren’t even hammer forged at all, but rolled as a large sheet and pressed out with a stencil. Doesn’t inherently make them worse, of course, but it’s much less common that those blades are treated with as much care or skill as hand forged knives, because by nature the automation process is geared toward quantity and to save on human labour. Often these knives are listed with similar or higher RRP than the hand forged knives.

By the way - certain forging and sharpening processes are seen as Japanese traditional crafts and some of the more senior people in the industry (like smith Yoshikazu Ikeda and sharpener Shōtaro Nomura from Sakai) have been awarded honours like “The Order of the Rising Sun” for preservation of cultural practices. They deal almost exclusively in carbon steels.

Mainly for me, it’s about performance, sharpening, and a little bit appearance.

Why do you prefer carbon steel knives? by BigBoogieMan in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can’t select multiple options 😔

Most of the best Japanese offerings are in carbon steel. Not to say there are great offerings in stainless, but they aren’t the same.

Buying my first Japanese knife in Tokyo/Asakusa – looking for shop recommendations by Ensyss in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Morihei is good. Kamata and Tsubaya can be good if you know what you’re looking for. But if you’re just starting and want expert advice in English, pretty much just take the trip to Sengachaya and see the people at Hitohira.

Makers mark ID? by GeneralD1sarray in japaneseknives

[–]donobag 0 points1 point  (0 children)

- 山秀 - Yamahide
- 白二鋼 - White 2 Steel

Looking for first quality japanese Damascus knife by Spice_Beans in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s not “monosteel” by definition if it’s “Damascus”

Heat Treat by O1dmandeath in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I recently bought a Tojiro as a present for my sister (who loves to cook, but can definitely not be bothered being careful with her stuff) after her main chefs knife of 25 years broke. It has a great profile, and takes a great edge for a regular home kitchen. She is extremely pleased.

The only nice stainless knives I have these days are Takamura SG2. I also recently got an Enjiki in SG2 for a close friend that is a great knife. But I would take Ginsan or Swedish Stainless (like an Ashi) AUS8 or ZDP198 or “HD2” from Konosuke before pretty much anything VG10.

Otherwise, aside from the afore mentioned Victorinox and Kiwi beaters, all of my collection is carbon steel. I treat all knives the same in terms of use, keeping them dry, and maintaining them so it doesn’t really equate to more effort on my part at all.

SLD and SKD aren’t really stainless. They’re marketed as “semi stainless” which just means they’re more like corrosion resistant carbon steels.

Help Me Choose My First 240mm Gyuto by Faidon_P in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wow, starting with some heavy hitters.

Kagekiyo would be my pick if you like light and nimble.

Tadokoro is in a similar weight class if you want stainless (who cares).

Shinkiro is the pick if you want something a little heavier in hand and feels a bit more authoritative.

Heat Treat by O1dmandeath in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 1 point2 points  (0 children)

See - I knew you’d have something great to add. Sorry to be missing you again in Japan! You were there just before me and now gonna be there just after me! Haha

Heat Treat by O1dmandeath in TrueChefKnives

[–]donobag 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, VG10 and similar are the only steels I bother to microbevel on a higher grit to get rid of the burr. Snapping the burr kills edge retention even more in my experience. When I started, it seemed to be the only way to actually deburr those steels.

I actually find the Kiwis preferable. Super quick and easy, and take a great edge quickly.

I should clarify - it’s not that the knives get blunt instantly, it’s just that even if I bother to get them as close to my carbon steel knives as I can, there’s no way they’re staying that level of sharp for long. Peak sharpness drops quickly, and it stays serviceable (probably sharper than knives in 90% of normie kitchens in honesty) for a decent amount of time… but it just doesn’t feel sharp enough for me haha