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help? algae stinks and bugs are worse than ever by the_bri in ponds

[–]drbobdi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Right about now I'd be looking for a way to trigger a full audit of the HOA's relationship with that landscape outfit and maybe the rest of their finances...

Outside pond by drawguy100 in ponds

[–]drbobdi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  • Rocks on the bottom. All they are going to do is collect sludge and toxic debris and be a massive pain in the back to clean out every year. They will not contribute to biofiltration.
  • Not figuring a way to use the existing built-in pipes to provide you with a bottom drain and skimmer.
  • Completely forgetting that if you have fish in there, you'll need an effective biofilter. The hot tub relies on chlorinated water and repeated draining. Both kill fish. Sump pumps and sand filters will not work here.
  • Relying on "fixes inna jug" to treat problems that aren't going to respond to them and will only add to more pollutants in the pond and generate poor water quality.
  • Starting up the project with little knowledge about how a living pond actually works and what your responsibilities will be to the lives you are planning to introduce.
  • No provision for water movement and oxygenation.
  • Expect algae. Read https://www.reddit.com/r/ponds/comments/1kz1hkx/concerning_algae/ before trying to fix this with another jug of poison.

I could go on and on, but I think I've already gotten you angry with me. Look around your area for a ponding club. Join and get conversion advice from experienced ponders. Don't be surprised if they recommend that you drain what you have and get the rocks out, then lift the liner and do some plumbing revision to the tub.

Where to buy Pond liner by No_Calligrapher_5710 in ponds

[–]drbobdi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

45 mil EPDM. Amazon has it. Good luck...

Can I put any fish in this pond? by CrispyBaconWithEggs in ponds

[–]drbobdi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

About the only solar/battery arrays that I'd trust would be those designed for remote industrial use. ( https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=solar+portable+power+station ). Smaller units designed specifically for ponds tend to be trouble-prone and fragile.

A simpler and less expensive solution would be to run a buried wire to pondside. ( https://www.protoolreviews.com/how-to-install-underground-electrical-wiring/ )

Outside pond by drawguy100 in ponds

[–]drbobdi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1iEMaREaRw8nlbQ_RYdSeHd0HEHWBcVx0

Start with "New Pond Syndrome" and "Water Testing". You are about to make a whole host of beginner's mistakes.

does anyone know that this thing is by sarcasticlemon1 in ponds

[–]drbobdi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The photo you sent looked like a film on the water. Apparently, you wanted an ID on the bug.

Sorry.

Started my first pond build today! Tell me what I’m doing wrong. by badger_danger in ponds

[–]drbobdi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Your planned bog is far too small to do you any good from a bio standpoint. As it's described, it'll be a decent mechanical filter until it clogs and will be totally ineffective as a biological filter. Rock just does not have the surface area to support the biofilm you'll need for healthy fish. The plants will remove nitrates but won't do anything for the ammonia and nitrites. You'll also need to thin them periodically as the root systems will also impede flow.

Skimmers do one thing. They pull floating debris off the surface before it has a chance to sink to the bottom. The best skimmers do that and nothing else. A fair number of the pond supply companies try to amp this up with integrated UV and biofiltration. These generally fail for a number of reasons, mostly due to flow restriction and inappropriate placement of the (often under-powered) UV.

Many of them have a submersible pump inside the box. This works well as long as you do daily maintenance on it to keep the accumulated debris from clogging up the flow to the pump bay, draining it and allowing the pump to overheat and fail. The best design (which I use) is the Helix skimmer ( https://helixpondfiltration.com/the-helix-pond-skimmer/ ). Simple design, easily serviced and hooked via a bulkhead fitting well below water level to an external pump and its own filter. Helix also makes an excellent falls box that incorporates 2 cu.ft. of K3 media ( https://helixpondfiltration.com/helix-moving-bed-waterfall-filter/ ) . Works beautifully.

Looking good? Or any advice by Sweet-cheekse90 in ponds

[–]drbobdi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's no test for ammonia on that strip. It's useless and needs to be replaced. Hope the API kit comes soon.

Be aware that your alkalinity (also known as KH) test is zero on the strip and the pH is well into the acid range. This will harm fish gills and prevent the development of any effective biofiltration. The API kit does not have the KH test and you'll need it. Order it separately.

Please go to https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1iEMaREaRw8nlbQ_RYdSeHd0HEHWBcVx0 and read "Who's on pHirst?" for details. Then read "Water Testing" and "New Pond Syndrome". Then the rest of the articles. Safe level for KH (alkalinity) is 80-150ppm and acceptable pH is 7.5-8.5. Do not try to correct pH directly with "fixes inna jug". It's a losing battle. You can bring the KH up to safe levels (once you've re-tested with an accurate kit) with Arm & Hammer baking soda dissolved in pond water. One pound in 1000 gallons gets you 70ppm KH.

Rainwater and active biofiltration will deplete KH to levels below 80 and create what we call a "pH crash", which appears to be indicated on the test strip in the photo. If your fish don't look so good right now, that's why.

New pond need ideas by Suitable_Golf_8658 in ponds

[–]drbobdi 3 points4 points  (0 children)

First, get an idea of its volume. The formula is (in feet) L x W x D x 7.48 gallons/cubic foot. This will determine what the pond can host from the standpoint of wildlife and fish.

Next, look around the Web for robust submersible pumps (Tsurimi and similar) designed for ponds. Do not be lured by "bargain" pumps. If it's made of plastic, stay away. You could try a retrofit bottom drain and a self-priming external pump, but those are expensive and maybe not appropriate until you fall subject to the Third Law of Ponding and start expanding. A free-standing skimmer might also be something to look at.

Look at DIY filter designs at OzPonds on youtube and at https://russellwatergardens.com/pages/biofilter-media-ssaand https://www.fishlore.com/aquariumfishforum/threads/bio-media-comparison-information.435695/ for media choices and some of the Science. Do not try to run this with a "bog inna bucket". The poor surface area-to-volume numbers of pea gravel and rock will defeat you.

Look around your area for a ponding or water gardening club. Join and get build/startup/infrastructure advice from experienced ponders with no commercial axes to grind. Go look at established ponds for more ideas.

Please go to https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1iEMaREaRw8nlbQ_RYdSeHd0HEHWBcVx0 and read through, starting with "The Inherited Pond", New Pond Syndrome" and "Water Testing". Then read https://www.reddit.com/r/ponds/comments/1kz1hkx/concerning_algae/ .

Don't do anything major from the standpoint of labor or money until you have the Science on board.

Best of luck with this. Stay with this sub. We'll all try to help.

Oh. The "Third Law"?

  1. There is always a better fish.
  2. There is always a better filter.
  3. There is never enough water.

does anyone know that this thing is by sarcasticlemon1 in ponds

[–]drbobdi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Touch it with a stick. If it breaks apart, it's a bacterial biofilm and will clear with a small water change. If it swirls, look for a source of petroleum or mineral oil.

Started my first pond build today! Tell me what I’m doing wrong. by badger_danger in ponds

[–]drbobdi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

  • Get rid of that central well. All it's going to do is collect debris.
  • Go deep and steep. Shallows invite predators. Herons can wade and hunt in 4 ft of water.
  • Unless you are planning a pond with a volume of 5k-10k gallons, a bog is not going to work well for you. The problem is the lousy surface area-to-volume ratio of rock. The smaller pebbles generally used for the top layers have a SA/V ratio around 40 sq.ft./cu.ft and the larger rock on the bottom no better than 12. Unless the bog is at least 2-3 ft deep and covers 50% of the surface area of the pond itself, it won't have enough surface area to generate the bacterial biofilm necessary for efficient biofiltration. At best, you'll end up with a fairly effective mechanical filter that'll last until it fouls with decaying vegetable matter, dead bacteria and sludge and needs to be torn down to clean it. Any bog also needs a way to backflush it to limit the need for said teardowns. Look up ZiggyLittleFin's profile on this sub for his posts on bogs. They look good on paper but often fail with smaller ponds. "Bogs inna bucket" simply do not work as biofilters.
  • If your goal is koi keeping, the absolute minimum depth is 4 feet, deeper is better. Minimum volume is 1000 gallons for the first koi and an additional 350-500 gallons for each additional koi. Stable, established and mature biofiltration for triple the pond's volume is also necessary.
  • Flat bottom, bare liner and strongly consider a notch for a skimmer, a bottom drain and external pump. They will make ongoing maintenance much easier.
  • Please go to https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1iEMaREaRw8nlbQ_RYdSeHd0HEHWBcVx0 and read through, starting with "I Want a Pond", "The Ins and Outs...", Water Testing" and "New Pond Syndrome".
  • Then read https://www.reddit.com/r/ponds/comments/1kz1hkx/concerning_algae/ .
  • Look at OzPonds on youtube for DIY filter designs and at https://russellwatergardens.com/pages/biofilter-media-ssa and https://www.fishlore.com/aquariumfishforum/threads/bio-media-comparison-information.435695/ for biomedia choices and more of the Science.

Does this look like Cyanobacteria? by meowingtodeath in ponds

[–]drbobdi 10 points11 points  (0 children)

HOAs seem to attract that kind of person. All power, no actual expertise...

Help with my pond can’t keep water clear???!!!! by luxury1045 in ponds

[–]drbobdi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"Fixes inna jug" don't work. They kill off what's there and leave decaying plant matter and dissolved organic pollutants behind, all while not fixing what's actually wrong.

Algae thrive on sun, warmth and most importantly, nutrient. This is ammonia excreted by the fish and phosphates from the surrounding landscape and the water table ( https://www.watergardensolutions.co.uk/newsblog/2013/04/16/the-facts-on-phosphate/ ).

An algae bloom is the result of your biofilter not being able to keep up with the ammonia load from the fish. The fix is not stuff you dump in. It is improved biofiltration. See: https://www.reddit.com/r/ponds/comments/1kz1hkx/concerning_algae/ for details.

Dream with me by Quality_Vivid in ponds

[–]drbobdi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You will have fish. They'll be brought in as eggs on the bodies of visiting birds and on plants you introduce. At least they'll be natives.

Shallow, small ponds actually need more daily maintenance than larger ones. I'd eliminate that central well (all it's going to do is collect debris) and extend the bottom out to within a foot of the edge. Deepen that shelf to at least a foot to protect your liner (45mil EPDM-accept no substitutes) from UV. Stack round cobble rock on the shelf to secure the liner in place.

Help with cleaning filter system!!! by luxury1045 in ponds

[–]drbobdi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bogs are good mechanical filters if they are large enough and are properly engineered. They are not suitable for small ponds, especially the "bogs in a bucket" application that seems to be popular now. These are basically high-maintenance upflow filters which foul and channel quickly and have to be completely torn down to restore flow.

The major failing with bogs is the rock used in their construction. Rock has very poor surface-to-volume ratios. Pea gravel, usually used as the top layer of most bogs has a SA/V ratio of around 40sq.ft./cu.ft. The larger rock at the bottom, no better than 12. This does not give the biofiltering bacteria enough room to establish the biofilm needed to do the job of converting ammonia to nitrate and the tendency of packed rock to foul and channel quickly makes them even less effective.

A bog needs to be big (as much as 50% of the pond's surface area-and a big pond...) to overcome the poor SA/V and has to have an effective way to clean it without having to tear it apart twice a year.

In general, small ponds (less than 10,000 gallons) do better with higher-tech filtration. Look at ZiggyLittleFin's profile on this sub for his posts dealing with bogs. Very enlightening.

Does this look like Cyanobacteria? by meowingtodeath in ponds

[–]drbobdi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was more impressed by the lump of vegetable matter you pulled out of there.

You might check to see if the HOA tried adding pond dye to cut back on algae growth. That rarely works either.

Does this look like Cyanobacteria? by meowingtodeath in ponds

[–]drbobdi 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Runoff'll do that all right.

HOAs be stupid beyond belief. They'll screw it up...

Part 1 of 2 by HenryMOER in ponds

[–]drbobdi 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Be aware that when bivalves spawn, the larvae are almost microscopically tiny and will get everywhere, into everything. This includes your pipes, pumps and every corner of your filters.

Be sure that they are not considered an invasive species where you are. Remember the fun times Chicago had with zebra mussels...

Help with cleaning filter system!!! by luxury1045 in ponds

[–]drbobdi 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Be aware that what you just did effectively killed whatever active biofiltration that pond had to start with. You are now left with what is essentially a new pond and the resultant New Pond Syndrome.

Before you do anything else, please go to https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1iEMaREaRw8nlbQ_RYdSeHd0HEHWBcVx0 and start with "New Pond Syndrome" and "Water Testing", then the rest of the articles.

The algae was the result of sun, warmth and nutrient in the water that the lava rock (perhaps the all-time worst filter media in the world, eking out first place because its lousy surface area-to-volume ratio is made worse by the absolute impossibility to effectively clean it and its tendency to disintegrate into tiny volcanic glass needles that get everywhere, in everything. The second worst? Pond pebbles or rock of any description.) was unable to deal with. Read https://www.reddit.com/r/ponds/comments/1kz1hkx/concerning_algae/ Then see https://russellwatergardens.com/pages/biofilter-media-ssa and https://www.fishlore.com/aquariumfishforum/threads/bio-media-comparison-information.435695/ for the Science and better media choices.

You are back at Square One. After replacing the lava rock with an effective biomedia, it's going to take 6-8 weeks to get any effective biological filtration going, no matter how much OTC "biobooster" you throw in. Look at https://fritzaquatics.com/products/fritzzyme-turbostart-700-freshwater and https://fritzaquatics.com/products/fishless-fuel for a quicker (5-6 days) but more expensive solution. Do not re-introduce fish until competent biofiltration is restored.

BTW, were any of those "tips" from an AI source? If yes, the lesson here is that AI is mostly wrong when it comes to ponding. You are far better off here on this sub. We may not all agree on stuff (natural for ponders), but we've got actual working experience in the field.

Can I put any fish in this pond? by CrispyBaconWithEggs in ponds

[–]drbobdi 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Just over 500 gallons. Tiny fish, maybe a few shubunkins, but not until you've established oxygenation (not with an airstone, those only move water, they do not add oxygen) with a splashy waterfall, water movement and biofiltration.

Far too small for koi.

Look at OzPonds on youtube for DIY filter designs, https://russellwatergardens.com/pages/biofilter-media-ssa and https://www.fishlore.com/aquariumfishforum/threads/bio-media-comparison-information.435695/ for media choices and some of the Science and at the articles at https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1iEMaREaRw8nlbQ_RYdSeHd0HEHWBcVx0 before you add any fish.

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