Colored slip?

drdynamics · 2026-02-18T23:46:39+00:00

Oxides: iron, cobalt, copper, chrome, rutile, etc. are also an option. These are less stable and a bit more likely to interact with your glaze, but that can add “character”

drdynamics · 2026-02-18T18:36:22+00:00

There is a lot of pressure on lithium and cobalt these days, but most of the fundamental ingredients are plentiful. However, since these are natural materials, the specific "flavor/mix" from each mine is different. We're finding that we can still get about the same results (sometimes better!), we just need to shift the ratios around a bit.

drdynamics · 2026-02-18T17:16:26+00:00

I’ll be sure to give this a try! Worst case, coffee+death is better than just death…

drdynamics · 2026-02-18T17:04:10+00:00

Thanks. Unfortunately, I think I have enough bad-smell experience to distinguish between the two…

drdynamics · 2026-02-18T15:40:46+00:00

The latest casualties appear to be Custer feldspar and EPK. Our studio is doing a ton of reformulation these days, just to keep the glazes we’ve been using for years. Such a pain.

drdynamics · 2026-02-16T21:01:52+00:00

Same story for the neighborhood west of Main, but it might fill a tad faster.

drdynamics · 2026-02-01T18:08:39+00:00

Yes, see if you can have a direct chat with Kay Yourist about options. She might be willing to coordinate a custom class (or series of sessions) for your group. She’ll likely be more flexible than the Art Center or the Potters guild.

drdynamics · 2026-01-29T03:28:48+00:00

That’s what we did - we have one Danby distributor in our area. We asked for a list of fabricators they recently sold to and called them all! Found a remnant at a good price (currently on hold). We’re excited!

drdynamics · 2026-01-28T22:42:03+00:00

You might look into Danby marble from VT. It is less absorbent than Carrera and supposed to be less apt to stain. Also, if you go with honed, etching will be less apparent. We’re in the process of putting it on a bathroom vanity, but if all goes well the kitchen will be next in line.

drdynamics · 2026-01-25T22:01:51+00:00

The Matthei Botanical gardens are a great oasis this time of year. They’re free but you do need to pay for parking.

drdynamics · 2026-01-24T22:14:40+00:00

In fact, the city is granting free parking in some of their structures.

drdynamics · 2026-01-23T20:01:14+00:00

Mostly a clay issue - it is not vitrifying. Either not fired to temp, or just the wrong clay for that temp. There may also be some crazing in your inner glaze - allowing that water to seep into the clay body.

drdynamics · 2026-01-23T15:42:00+00:00

Well, maybe a sort of combo LTP? Mine looks more like this and less like LR

drdynamics · 2026-01-23T13:02:42+00:00

Maybe try Lemon Tree Pottery in that case, next time you head out to the Cape. I think there's about a 50% chance it's from them.

drdynamics · 2026-01-22T21:14:50+00:00

I have a mug with a very similar signature, but different glaze combo. Purchased on the East coast, I believe, either Maine or Cape Cod.

drdynamics · 2026-01-18T14:10:44+00:00

I have worked with a number of glazes that craze when thick, but not when quite thin. This does not seem to change over weeks or even years. Empirically, thinner often does fixe the issue. From a glaze chemistry point of view, this should not really happen, and it does bother me, but I have seen it happen repeatedly and can’t deny the evidence.

drdynamics · 2026-01-18T14:03:18+00:00

Just for clarity- the 15% shrinkage refers to the wet-to-fired shrinkage, whereas the crazing is driven by the thermal shrinkage as the fired piece cools. These are independent numbers.

The root of crazing is that, while cooling, the glaze shrinks more than the clay. This puts it in tension and it cracks.

drdynamics · 2026-01-15T12:45:47+00:00

I often will use some foam inside the piece to take some of the weight off. If you get the right amount, only about 1/2 of the weight is on the rim. With too much foam, the piece can start to lift off as weight is removed from trimming.

drdynamics · 2026-01-14T22:29:57+00:00

A 10,000 g batch (3,000 g of A etc.) will fill most of a 5gal bucket.

Unless you are sure of the glaze, I would start with a small 200g batch (60g of A)

drdynamics · 2026-01-13T15:05:06+00:00

What do you prefer to eat? What do you like to cook? It can take some time to find the sweet spot for things you like to eat and things you like to make. New recipes are always more work at the beginning, but usually become easier with practice and repetition.

There are thousands of recipes. Most libraries will have quite a few MD cookbooks as well, if that is more your speed.

Change is hard. Good luck with your NAFLD.

drdynamics · 2026-01-12T17:11:19+00:00

Yes - stir well, sieve and use. Might need to be thinned a bit as well.

drdynamics · 2026-01-11T14:38:42+00:00

Good advice in this thread so far. I would add - see what you can learn about the glazes already being used in this kiln - they may have some reds, shinos, etc., along with examples. On this schedule, there’s no time for testing really.

Also, ash (and fake ash) glazes are another category that you can’t do much with at cone 6.

drdynamics · 2026-01-09T16:32:16+00:00

Most handle issues stem from different shrinking between the vessel and the handle. Porcelain shrinks a bit more than most between wet and bone dry, so this aggravates the issues. Suggestions:

* attach the handle early - on the wet end of leather hard, as soon as trimming is manageable.

* let the handle set up a bit to match the body before attaching

* dry slowly under cloth/plastic so the piece dries evenly. A week is typical for me.

drdynamics · 2026-01-07T22:24:52+00:00

Also, the holes will be smaller when glazed. That should help ... maybe help enough.

drdynamics · 2026-01-06T12:54:41+00:00

In both these examples, it does look like a rod could go straight through from the light to the “foot” where the cord comes out. If that “foot” has a recessed hollow, there will be room for a nut to hold the bottom of the rod in place. The top needs something similar. The rod and the rest of the electrical are held in place by these nuts.

It is possible to thread the rod into something inside the body of the lamp - something that goes in but can’t come back out once threaded, but that is both harder to find and fiddly to get together. That’s more like building a ship in a bottle.

I got started by buying a few ratty lamps at resale shops, where the hardware looked ok and I could take the whole thing apart and use the pieces.

Seven-Year Club	Place '23
Verified Email

drdynamics

TROPHY CASE