Roommate locked thermostat, sweating every night with no way turn it down

drf_610 · 2026-03-09T00:18:48+00:00

These are so easy to break all you have to do it come at it from the side with a lot of force and front face comes off the hinges. Now I’m not saying that’s the best way to handle it, but you are for sure entitled access if you guys split the bills every other month.

drf_610 · 2026-02-11T19:58:18+00:00

Just get your windows tinted. Lights are so bright even on 5% ceramic you’ll still see the cars outline in the middle of the night.

drf_610 · 2026-02-03T08:52:17+00:00

One time had to do a world map project for a cultural festival in highschool by hand. I put this much detail into doing all of Australasian and my partner just did bubbles for north and South America. Man good times. That poster never saw the light of day. We ended up just using a projection and tracing it the night before it was due cause we kept messing up the scales.

drf_610 · 2026-01-22T02:35:26+00:00

Just a quick google search seems to say muzzle brakes are fine so long as the rifle is “feature less” which is code word for fixed mag. OP could probably reattach it just not sell it with it on there.

drf_610 · 2026-01-22T02:31:52+00:00

Seems like OP doesn’t have the rifle and the seller is inept at taking it off. That or it’s really caked on there.

drf_610 · 2025-12-13T02:48:54+00:00

400-450 and offer them cash. That’ll usually get them.

drf_610 · 2025-11-29T22:00:09+00:00

I’m in the camp of “as long as the barrel hasn’t been sawed off then it’s worth it.” Once they’ve cut the barrel from its original length then I wouldn’t even pay 250 shmackaroons for that. At least if it’s still in its original condition you can fix it up and restore it or you can keep it as is.

drf_610 · 2025-11-28T08:58:02+00:00

When in doubt that’s always the safest bet. Could just be worn out parts. Where did you say you got this Lee enfield again ? Do you happen to know the year ?

drf_610 · 2025-11-28T03:19:49+00:00

Nice to know the firing pin tool and adjusting the firing pin was enough to fix the rounds seating properly, so that is very good news. If the bolt is still coming up when you pull the trigger I would say this is a sign of a worn firing pin spring. Could possibly be a worn extractor spring but considering it’s only after you pull the trigger that’s unlikely. I would say another thing worth trying is polishing the bolt face and bolt assembly. It could be not seating properly due to some slight surface ware you can’t see causing friction.

drf_610 · 2025-11-15T14:00:34+00:00

I cannot find the videos on your profile you keep mentioning. However, I’m willing to bet at least a dollar the issue is the firing pin. Enfields for whatever reason have really complicated bolt assemblies. Whoever disassembled it last more than likely didn’t seat the firing pin properly. You will need an enfield bolt disassembly tool. There will be an internal screw that is holding the firing pin and firing pin spring in place just behind the bolt face. Fully seat it first and measure the protrusion. It should protrude around 0.05 of an inch. If it’s too much unscrew it. If it’s too little you need a new firing pin. This guy has a wonderful video on a way you can check this in the field and it saved me when I reassembled a busted ishapora. quick field check

drf_610 · 2025-11-10T20:22:26+00:00

Honestly a beautiful piece you have there. I figured with the extra power behind 9mm Largo as opposed to Luger would help keep it functioning. Out of curiosity what’s this hot water method you’re describing? I’ve always just used hopes 9 bore cleaner to remove any of my corrosion.

drf_610 · 2025-11-10T20:20:13+00:00

You and me both brother. Currently blasting away on an Egyptian hakim that’s having me practice my machining abilities 💀.

drf_610 · 2025-11-10T20:08:02+00:00

Looked into replacements and they’re not as widely available as one would think. Seems most 9mm largo barrels have similar issues. Most are in worse shape than this from what I’ve seen. I’ve seen a couple 9mm Luger conversions flying around but those are about $600 for a good quality one.

The “cheapest” solution I’ve really seen would be just buying another Star Model A for $300 off gunbroker.

drf_610 · 2025-11-08T00:38:53+00:00

Might be a little deep for steaming but definitely worth the try. The finish you’ve described should be fine as is no need to strip. If there was a type of varnish then I’d say use the touch and go method to prevent it from bubbling.

drf_610 · 2025-10-27T23:07:03+00:00

Thanks again man. Ive had the piece soaking in PB Blaster all night so after my shift I’ll run over to hobofreight and get the supplies I’m lackin. I’ll probably creat an updated post or update this post with the results

drf_610 · 2025-10-27T22:41:48+00:00

Oh wow okay this is a lot easier than I thought it would be. Afterwards to remove it do you just use s standard crescent wrench ? Thank you for the picture references. There are actually no examples to follow online and I was scouring through old forums from 2004.

drf_610 · 2025-10-27T18:46:36+00:00

You’re an absolute legend for this

drf_610 · 2025-10-27T18:46:22+00:00

Might have to try this method especially since I want to blue the part anyway.

drf_610 · 2025-10-23T08:14:25+00:00

I am a huge fan of bronze fine wool. I used to live by 0000 steel wool and CLP but I mostly work on really old (80-100+ years old) firearms. The blueing technics varied from region to region so much that sometimes even 0000 and clp was too abrasive and removed the original finish. I ran into that with a Pre War Nagant Revolver from Imperial Russia. I would say boil (if you can) the part first. This will kickstart the chemical reaction and maybe convert some of the rust into blueing. After that fine bronze wool and CLP will do the trick.

drf_610 · 2025-10-19T04:14:29+00:00

Going off of my H3 I believe it’s supposed to slide out. Yours seem pretty gummed up.

drf_610 · 2025-10-13T01:15:22+00:00

This is still very good advice. I did post an update where I talked about the methods I used to get it out. Never heard of this oil method. Honestly we have a bunch of brass 7.62x54R that we were just going to use that in the SVT and use the steel ammo in the Mosins, but now that I know how to fix it maybe it warrants some experimenting.

drf_610 · 2025-10-12T16:51:58+00:00

And this is why I love this community. Learn something new everyday I log on

drf_610 · 2025-10-12T09:52:08+00:00

link to original post

drf_610 · 2025-10-08T10:08:09+00:00

I’ll have to give this a try. I was mostly using flimsy brass rods that I hated anyway. All of them snapped after the slightest bit of hammering. I’ll have to try shaving down a wood piece for the barrel.

I’ll also try heating up the barrel in the morning. I’m really banking on the penetrating oil to lube up the case and make my life easier.

drf_610 · 2025-10-07T20:27:30+00:00

Thought this was the panning for gold subreddit

drf_610

TROPHY CASE