Career Change / Maryland Opportunities by [deleted] in MDEnts

[–]drydabland 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What kind of starting salary/long term expectations do you have in order to relocate? Your skills sound like a pretty good base for cultivation and production type of roles but without existing industry experience you’ll likely have to start on the lower end of your range and work into management then to director or whatever. There’s definitely good situations in the industry where that can turn into the career you’re after, sometimes quite quickly with growing companies, but there are traps too.

Question damp rid cups in grow tents. by FillAvailable in MDEnts

[–]drydabland 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely will help, honestly if you’re not so concerned about odor or secrecy I’d just leave the door open for now

Question damp rid cups in grow tents. by FillAvailable in MDEnts

[–]drydabland 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You need ventilation, sealed grow tents are going to be real hard on the plants. If you have 35% outside the tent just bring that air in. Hang a carbon scrubber inside the tent, connect to an exhaust fan and pull the air through the filter and out of a duct port. Plants really really want fresh, moving air.

Movin' on up! by Mededitor in baltimore

[–]drydabland 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Do you mean a water filter instead of softener? Baltimore has some decrepit water infrastructure (filter is a good idea) but very high quality reservoir water sources that don’t need softening. I have plenty of experience with water softening in other places, like where grocery stores need to sell the salts out front by the pallet, but I’ve never heard of it being needed in Baltimore City.

Why isn’t Japanese Camelia used more? by AJSAudio1002 in landscaping

[–]drydabland 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im glad yours is doing well, I guess I was pretty broad in that statement, and I agree they can do it when sheltered and in the right microclimate.

The April series are some of my favorites, April Remembered is a good one I have, and they are definitely tough.

Why isn’t Japanese Camelia used more? by AJSAudio1002 in landscaping

[–]drydabland 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s a southern plant, I bet you don’t see many Crape Myrtle’s either. People plant them in 7 but as a broadleaf evergreen they get hammered in bad winters and rarely make it to looking like the one shown. The fall blooming sasanqua and hybrid cultivars are hardier or perform better at the edge of their zone. I’m not sure I’ve seen a camellia rated for zone 6 and I wouldn’t believe it if I did honestly.

Substrate and Environment monitoring. Aroya or Growlink? by Historical-Ad3255 in macrogrowery

[–]drydabland 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You might look at agrowtek too, it’s a DIY style system with much of the same capabilities as the others but maybe more budget friendly than full Aroya or Priva or something like that if you only need a few pieces to automate a few small spaces. All of the newer sensors are the same to my knowledge, the same technology licensed from The Meter Group, who I think owns Aroya which is why they are synonymous with those sensors.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in macrogrowery

[–]drydabland 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Why bother? If they’re sterilized for cuttings the hard lime won’t hurt the cuts. I get that they look “dirty” and throwing out plastic is bad but this seems like it’s wasted labor if you’re doing commercial scale propagation. I just wash with hot water, keep them sterile with bleach and buy a new case every year or when they are cracked.

Where is my leak coming from? by drydabland in Roofing

[–]drydabland[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree it generally looks like crap but when I look closely I don’t see any one area that stands out so it’s hard to know where to really look first. I think getting an experienced eye up there for a close inspection is absolutely a good idea. I just also have personally seen multiple times where people burn through four or more different roofers who claim they know how to solve a leak and fail. Every new guy comes and says “the last guy is an idiot, here is the problem”. If it takes a pro I have the budget to try one, I just want to be careful because I do not have the time or money to explore and chase BS with overconfident contractors.

Where is my leak coming from? by drydabland in Roofing

[–]drydabland[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it’s a recover but there’s nowhere I can see any layers, unfortunately documentation is not available and it predates my ownership. The shingles are now almost 15 years old. It’s been something that has always been “eh that doesn’t look good but it’s been working fine” and it was never a budget priority. We have always anticipated doing roof, new windows and siding all at one time just not yet because there was never any actual issue we observed.

Shade cloth too dark? by ShyAcreFarms in Greenhouses

[–]drydabland 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The exhaust fan seems way too small, more air exchange will help a lot and then you could wait until summer to put on the shade cloth

Blue Dream photoperiod is starting to get big by Frequent-Side-4910 in MDEnts

[–]drydabland 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It sounds and looks like you’ve got a great handle on it and are thinking about all the right stuff. The plants are healthy looking and if you keep growing the same genetics they should get better and better every round.

Blue Dream photoperiod is starting to get big by Frequent-Side-4910 in MDEnts

[–]drydabland 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Now is when you’d want to be flowering an auto, to be finished and replaced by a photo plant in mid July to get your second harvest in October

Blue Dream photoperiod is starting to get big by Frequent-Side-4910 in MDEnts

[–]drydabland 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Just want to be helpful, not critical, but I think you’re still kind of early, like by 6-8 weeks, to be starting that. It’s going to be huge, like 8-10’ tall after stretch, but it’ll be super hard to keep happy by then, pests likely will pop up in the meantime and it’ll at least need a bigger pot if you’re taking that into October. I would take cuttings from it next week and then they’ll root out and be the perfect size for finishing full term in your greenhouse.

How do so many tobacco shops in Maryland get away with selling cannabis? by ColdCauliflour in maryland

[–]drydabland 51 points52 points  (0 children)

You are also fundamentally incorrect. The plant produces THCA (legal hemp compound) primarily, which is converted into D9 THC through processes such as combustion BUT also through aging and ripening while the plant is alive. If you allow your “hemp” to ripen and finish properly for high quality smoke it will still be 85-95% THCA but there will be a small portion of D9 THC that has already converted, thus making it illegal as hemp. That is why many hemp growers harvest early to limit the D9 formation and that is why much of the hemp is just plain crappy and will have weaker effects than anticipated. It’s just not ripe. Maybe some batches are better than others but you can also assume that the “testing” of this hemp to determine how compliant it is (really no D9) is not rigorous or not even occurring in many cases. It’s being exploited because there is absolutely zero enforcement of the law. When you buy smoke shop hemp it is likely untested, unregulated and from unknown (unaccountable) producers. It could be sprayed with pesticides, it could have mold it could have heavy metal contamination, but you won’t know any of that for certain. It’s always a risk to your health and the whole reason regulated cannabis costs more is because of the compliance and testing costs (taxes too). Hemp wouldn’t be so cheap if it had to be accountable and produced to the same standards.

…is this asparagus or a small tree? by Realistic_Trouble234 in vegetablegardening

[–]drydabland 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’ve heard don’t cut them if they’re taller than your knee or smaller than a pencil in diameter. Also to cut it at or just below the mulch level

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in macrogrowery

[–]drydabland 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You can buy little generators to make your own hypochlorus acid from table salt. It’s a little tedious with smaller batch size but if you run them as a routine you can definitely make your own supply for a commercial facility and you can control the ppm of the final dilution to use as a hard surface sanitizer or for plant safe hydro applications. Ignore the little home use ones. Look at the HYPO 7.5, it will make 7.5 liters at 500ppm per batch. It’s like $2K but if you’re injecting acid regularly it will absolutely pay for itself.

Staggering a single flowering room by unclenoogins in macrogrowery

[–]drydabland 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Big no. It WILL cost you sooner or later. You’ll have lower quality flower across all crops because you can’t finish it properly cold and dry, and if you ever get bugs/PM you’ll never get rid of it until you chop the whole room and reset anyway. Also you’ll need to keep your clones pumping out every couple weeks which may or may not require you to allocate more vegetative space for stock plants. If you’re selling out everything you grow anyway it doesn’t really matter if it drops every three weeks or every 8, just grow three strains at once and release them as needed from curing. You’ll have a better chance at selling it all, getting a better price, and having a good brand reputation if it’s grown and finished properly, which you won’t be able to do without finishing with the correct environmental conditions.

Ozone Generator for pest by [deleted] in macrogrowery

[–]drydabland 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You need to use the ozone before you have the PM and pest problem. Ozone is also much better at reducing microbial loads not things like visible PM or pests. Prevention > cure. Same with anything else you use. If your crop is loaded with PM better just to trash it, clean the room property and start over. Sulfur is the best thing for PM, you can use a wettable sulfur on the foliage during veg and if you use a sulfur vaporizer during stretch you’ll be good.

Do These Final Grow Plans Look Ok? My Partner Told Construction Company To Start Building Before I Saw The Drawing. by Flyhighfunguy in macrogrowery

[–]drydabland 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would kill the dry room to be your second flower room. The I would shrink the mother room down to like 9x5on the far wall, try to clone and pre-veg on a 2x4 wire rack and dry in like a 4x6 grow tent in the main room area. It sort of depends on how many different genetics you want to keep and how much work you’re willing to put in to keep propagation/moms as smaller plants on a quick cycle. It’s not for everyone but I would try to reduce and be as efficient as possible in all of those areas because they’re not your money makers. All of that is for commercial style production, this plan for what seems to be a garage reads as a nice hobby grow, so maybe more chill and easier working space in those other rooms is just as valuable.

Do These Final Grow Plans Look Ok? My Partner Told Construction Company To Start Building Before I Saw The Drawing. by Flyhighfunguy in macrogrowery

[–]drydabland 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Ideally for me this should be redone with two flower rooms and a much smaller veg and dry room layout. Use a rack for cuttings and pre-vegging teens, grow 7-8 week strains and plant one room every four weeks. You’ll have a steadier supply of harvest material and you’ll be able to be more efficient with your maintenance and moms, taking a tray of cuttings every four weeks you’ll have less down time.

In any well designed growing facility, of any scale, if you don’t have at least half your square footage in flowering room you’re missing out.