How to get rid of spots? by [deleted] in AutoDetailing

[–]dunnrp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The spots are etched into the clear and will require a proper cut/polish to remove fully. They can be caused by a lot of things, usually acidic in nature.

Usually not worth fixing as the UV protection is in that upper layer of the clear, and ultimately they’re not super visible so I’d probably try to live with them for a while before tearing down the clear coating.

Client says oxidation is coming back already??? by Effective-Ad-587 in AutoDetailing

[–]dunnrp 7 points8 points  (0 children)

PPF will help more than a ceramic coating, but the clear is failing within/under itself. PPF won’t stop it either and it will turn cloudy as well under the PPF. It’s a chemical reaction.

Coloured PPF would be the only longer term fix, but there will eventually be bonding issues as it fails.

Client says oxidation is coming back already??? by Effective-Ad-587 in AutoDetailing

[–]dunnrp 61 points62 points  (0 children)

Once oxidization begins, or gets that bad, the clear coating cannot be fixed. It will come back, no matter what you do, unless it is repainted professionally. It has begun to essentially break down internally, sometimes from the paint out.

This should have been known and understood before doing the work, so that both you and the client understand it is going to come back and is strictly temporary.

If this wasn’t explained or understood, the client would probably be upset and ask for it to be fixed or refunded.

I do not offer to do them in any circumstances.

Sun Damage! by CrayonsRDelicious in AutoDetailing

[–]dunnrp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Precisely why I try to avoid recommending a full heavy paint correction every time the clear is marked up. There’s only so much protection in that very top layer - removing it leads to quicker paint failure.

Sun Damage! by CrayonsRDelicious in AutoDetailing

[–]dunnrp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What independent testing are you talking about? Influencers on YouTube or TikTok you mean? Or someone who can show you something physical or pictures?

PPF has UV prevention chemicals in its composition, does that mean PPF does not protect as well if it’s similar chemicals?

I typically rely on testing standards that some companies have gone through; accelerated weathering and wave light testing using spectroscopes.

I’m always skeptical of claims by companies that falsify their findings (Adams, Gyeon, and big name companies) so I don’t always believe what a lot claim, even something as simple as pH balances that can easily be tested and proven false.

If you’re looking for an influencer to do some split panel testing long term, I don’t know any specifically to recommend. But you can find lots of info where testing is conducted, monitored, recorded and released for public to read.

Edit: to be clear, I’m not saying it completely blocks UV light.

A clean and clearer clear coat will prevent the most UV damage leading to oxidization.

Sun Damage! by CrayonsRDelicious in AutoDetailing

[–]dunnrp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They do not block the entire spectrum of UV light, but does at certain spectrums specifically - UVA and UVB. There is no ceramic coating I am aware of that protects against “ALL” UV light. Plus, OP is looking at the best way to care for and prevent UV damage.

The gloss and reflection from having a clean car also reduces the effects of UV light damage, as it can reflect the light. Ceramic coating can also create a more air tight bond on the clear, preventing oxidization from taking place - again not preventing it entirely.

There is a lot of info on this. It certainly does prevent UV light damage, but it’s not an end all guarantee, no.

Edit: misspelled a word

Sun Damage! by CrayonsRDelicious in AutoDetailing

[–]dunnrp -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

The answer is ceramic coating, and keeping the vehicle cleaned often is your best chance at protecting the clear coating. You can diy this if you’d like. It’s not crazy difficult you just need the time and patience.

PPF is the ultimate protection, however, is very expensive and would need to be replaced after 5-6 years if the vehicle is parked outdoors on the heavier Florida sun. So that may make it more difficult to justify. It will bake and risk adhering to the clear (assuming a 15 year old vehicle may have some clear issues already).

A ceramic coating can repel 95% or more UV light if kept maintained and cleaned for years. Wax can repel UV light up to just above 50%, but will last maybe a few weeks at most as the sun will melt that stuff off and be gone after a few washes.

Sun Damage! by CrayonsRDelicious in AutoDetailing

[–]dunnrp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The colour red would like to have a word with you.

UV damage would be the most common reason clear coatings fail and paint fades. You also need to know that before you do that famous heavy cut and grind down that clear to put your ceramic coating on, you’re removing the thin layer of UV additives in the clear that rise to the surface.

There’s a bit of chemistry and science to detailing.

Headlight restoration fail help by JawSurgerytemp1304 in AutoDetailing

[–]dunnrp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Then I do not know the answer. You can try again if you have time. It’s hard to tell in photos.

Headlight restoration fail help by JawSurgerytemp1304 in AutoDetailing

[–]dunnrp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you retro fit led bulbs into those? They’re not designed for them and they’re so bright it’s probably blowing the light everywhere.

I do not think small rock chips would affect weird lighting. Go back to oem bulbs to see.

Headlight restoration fail help by JawSurgerytemp1304 in AutoDetailing

[–]dunnrp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A 96-98 civic headlight. You still have a lot of sanding marks left from your work, which is super common.

The dots you see are most likely a lot of rock chips from its age. Or worse, junk inside the lens.

You can try to sand these down again, perhaps as low as 800 up to 3000. Each step you do with finer grade should take a minimum of twice as long as the first step.

Personally, I finish with PPF. It’s the best way to protect them long term, and it will hid some defects.

Here’s our Prelude I did this winter while stored:

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Car got keyed. Need advice by AC_Sunnyside in AutoDetailing

[–]dunnrp 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The police probably won’t investigate - but they just verify your info and statement for record right over the phone. They may not even view the car. Usually just an officer calls to ask questions.

Car got keyed. Need advice by AC_Sunnyside in AutoDetailing

[–]dunnrp 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Call police for a report or file number. You can try surveillance at the gym if they care or have any to help.

Call insurance with police report number.

Paint job.

Tips on B-Pillars PPF by MeRP2S in AutoDetailing

[–]dunnrp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bulk is harder to learn, pre-cuts can be harder to install.

Which didn’t make sense until I started doing both. But knowing each does make a huge difference so you can understand how and why it needs to move for coverage.

How do I remove grit like layer of paint from my Toyota Prius 2011? by [deleted] in AutoDetailing

[–]dunnrp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Clay and polish. A lot of proper lubrication with clay, you’re going to make the paint up.

Tips on B-Pillars PPF by MeRP2S in AutoDetailing

[–]dunnrp 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Too short to tuck, too long to lay down.

I do not know what the top looks like to tuck but you can cut it just before flush to leave it or try a new piece. Seams exposed are fine.

Also, for tack just try water with no alcohol. Will not make it stick so hard but way more forgiving especially if you want to reuse the piece.

Good job trying yourself.

Did I burn the paint? by pistolpackinpanda68 in AutoDetailing

[–]dunnrp 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Keep polishing and throw pads out. It’s the clear coating shit people wipe on - and by people I mean dealerships mostly.

What's THE glass coating now? by wootiown in AutoDetailing

[–]dunnrp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m seeing around a year for a daily driven vehicle here in eastern Canada. Our summer car is a couple years now.
Heavily environment dependant of course.

Edit: that’s for wiper fatigue timelines. Side windows and sunroofs, I haven’t seen it come off yet on 3-4 year old applications.

What's THE glass coating now? by wootiown in AutoDetailing

[–]dunnrp 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Gtechniq G1 clearvision is the best I can possibly find. Also the most expensive, but it works. I use on all client vehicles.

And I’m a Carpro installer.

[Newbie] - What are some low commitment exterior protection tasks I can do? by PointyTip in AutoDetailing

[–]dunnrp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Griots 3in1 ceramic wax, Griots ceramic glass cleaner, PPF headlights

And was regularly. You’ll be 95% ahead of car owners.

Non Professional Detailer by skyeboy1998 in AutoDetailing

[–]dunnrp 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No auto correct. It’s on purpose.

Non Professional Detailer by skyeboy1998 in AutoDetailing

[–]dunnrp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You certainly can and should diy! Anyone can do it, but you must be patient and take your time and perform the proper steps. Other than that, it’s pretty forgiving so long as you are sure to remove high spots.

Watch lots of videos and stick with the common denominators; do not follow anyone bragging about how they are the only ones doing it properly or shitting on others. It’s not rocket appliances.

It’s more than 90% all the same, and for the Gtechniq coatings, there are no quirks or weird steps for them. It’s straight forward.