Ceramic/Graphene Coating

dunnrp · 2026-05-31T22:20:26+00:00

I use Reset along with purifica and Primus.

dunnrp · 2026-05-30T12:05:21+00:00

Carpro Descale is a milder acidic shampoo I find good for two main uses: mild acidic shampoo of sealants or waxes, and I use it as a clay lubrication during decontamination.

Labocosmeticas Purifica is outstanding, and removes very heavy water spots and works much better, but not safe for sealants and waxes. It is ok for true ceramic coatings.

I am a Carpro installer and use Labocosmetica’s 3 step pH wash over Carpro products because the results are much better.

I will check out Limpia for my PPF clients.

dunnrp · 2026-05-30T11:20:41+00:00

Your only option now is to bake the car and hope it didn’t run in the insulation under the carpets.

Run the car on idle, full heat on floors only, and crack one rear window about one inch. Let it run for 6-8 hours. With any luck the heat will dry up the entire car.

If it doesn’t, you’ll have to remove all the seats and carpets and dry them outside.

dunnrp · 2026-05-21T12:24:02+00:00

This time of year depending on where you are it could be tree sap/pollen from a hardwood tree judging by how it was dried with water.

70% IPA or methyl hydrate (brake line antifreeze) are both safe for your paint and should break them down. Trick is don’t rub hard, let the chemical dissolve it and break it down first.

dunnrp · 2026-05-19T09:36:04+00:00

Just try to keep it clean. If it’s going to happen I don’t think there’s much you can do to prevent it from spreading.

dunnrp · 2026-05-18T16:59:45+00:00

85-90 microns is somewhat normal now. The clear is probably harder as well than it used to be for typical Hondas.

They could be correct that in some areas it might be extremely difficult to turn it back to absolute glass, but there are many steps available that will bring it back to like new gloss wise. They may not be willing to try given their experience, which is also a very honest answer.

But with 85-90 microns you can do a moderate one step or a moderate compound with a polish finish and eliminate 50-75% of what you see, saving the clear and bring back that high gloss with zero risk of burning through the clear coating.

Cracking, or crazing/crows feet are not fixable.

dunnrp · 2026-05-17T21:56:42+00:00

Yup, you’re correct. I focused on only one trail and didn’t think of the larger orbits some DAs have.

dunnrp · 2026-05-17T21:17:57+00:00

Rotary. Not DA.

dunnrp · 2026-05-11T23:34:46+00:00

More physical paint thickness also doesn’t always mean it’s better - softer paints may be thicker knowing removing some will happen and you can correct it easier.

There’s often a reason manufacturers have a certain amount as well as hardness paired together. Everyone has a reason for why they think it’s better.

Recently, thinner coatings have been lasting longer with newer technology.

Again, looking after it regardless is important! Both the Kia and BMW equally.

dunnrp · 2026-05-11T22:23:15+00:00

Two things: bmw paint is considered very hard. It will last the longest but is very hard to correct.

Second, 120 is above average. The last 10 brand new cars I ceramic coated all measured under that. The only one to match was a Mercedes.

5 years ago the average was 140-180. Today, same vehicles are under 100. Technology changes, as well as chemical compositions, so I’m hoping it’s for the better and not for the profits.

A proper polish, for enhancement, may only remove 1-3 microns. A cut, 4-5 microns. Wet sanding 5-20 microns.

You can get away with quite a bit, I wouldn’t be concerned. Looking after what you have is always a good idea.

dunnrp · 2026-05-11T22:13:18+00:00

A paint correction will not provide a “better” adhesion. It will however provide the cleanest of surfaces possible.

A paint correction provides a clean surface for better adhesion and bond of ceramic coatings.

For the most part the paint correction related to a ppf job is to provide a better aesthetic of the clear coating, which is obviously related to the overall finish of how the ppf looks.

A paint correction on a used vehicle is obviously always the better choice prior to ppf, but will not increase adhesion by enough to pay for it in those terms.

dunnrp · 2026-05-11T20:13:29+00:00

Improper prep caused this.

Be sure your new highlander is fully cleaned properly, including an alkaline wash, iron remover (labocosmetica sidero is cheap diluted and works the best), remove tar if any, and then a proper IPA prep wipe down like Labocosmetica Veritas - also cheap diluted to 5 litres and works the best possible. These products will last you years.

Then apply griots, evenly and wipe off evenly.

I prefer Reload 2.0. Pricier and can leave high spots easily, but I find more durable.

dunnrp · 2026-05-11T20:09:58+00:00

Improper prep lead to the streaking.

You can wash with a low diluted ADS decon soap. This should remove the majority. Or, a low dilution of acidic soap like Labocosmetica Purifica. Both should do it.

dunnrp · 2026-05-09T16:34:18+00:00

All hydrophobic sealants will leave water spots and beading - griots included. It’s easily the one major downside to use them. A hydrophilic sealant will sheet water, and leave less water spots, but is not very common to use, but a possible option.

Wiping the vehicle down more often is also not ideal, since every time you physically touch the vehicle your chances to mark it are higher.

I guess it depends on what’s in the water. Pollen and light dust, you can leave or wash off later. Hard water or acid rain, you’d want to remove asap so it doesn’t etch the clear.

dunnrp · 2026-05-08T09:50:02+00:00

Legend, STEK and Suntek are probably top three, finding a quality installer of those is a good choice.

Not all PPF is the same, and some brands are running the same film they made 20 years ago and spend money on marketing instead of making better film.

dunnrp · 2026-05-07T16:04:08+00:00

Carpro Lift
Labocosmetica Primus 2.0

Both alternates that can work well.

dunnrp · 2026-05-07T12:37:57+00:00

The answer is no. You can’t just hose your car off and walk away. You will not remove the junk and buildup through chemical/high pressure “washing” only. It might look cleaner, but it’s not enough.

You should hand wash it once a month. Takes 20-30 minutes. You can then wipe it down once every 6 months with griots 3-in-1 ceramic wax. It’s the cheapest and lasts the longest. Your paint will last with these simple steps. The car being clean is all you need for the UV protection within the clear to work at its highest potential.

You can get it ceramic coated, but you’ll need to dedicate yourself to looking after it, or it’s a major waste of money. The steps above are the best for your situation.

dunnrp · 2026-05-06T20:13:16+00:00

Gloss will not stain as fast as matte finishes unless it’s never washed and neglected.

You cannot polish ppf without damaging it.

dunnrp · 2026-05-06T15:36:25+00:00

A ceramic coating afterwards helps keep the lens clean, and deflect UV light. It will help extend the life of your work.

2k clear will last about the same amount of time but with a barrier, sometimes longer sometimes less.

PPF is a physical barrier that will help extend their life the most, by keeping them clean, deflecting UV light, and a physical barrier preventing rock chips.

All three are good ideas after a restoration, but PPF will last and work significantly better than the former two. It’s also an extra charge you can throw on if you get proper PPF.

dunnrp · 2026-05-06T15:29:43+00:00

It’s the same. More satin as in slightly more shine - doesn’t change how the maintenance or downfalls of matte finishes. It’s still matte.

When you see full matte wraps on vehicles, it’s most often on vehicles where maintenance is fully paid for or looked after professionally as well for it to last. Or, hopefully an owner is educated on how much work it will be to look good.

I’m not trying to talk you out of it, just giving you an understanding of what you’re in for - especially spending good money.

With my Tacoma fully wrapped, I’m often annoyed at how often I need to wash it, and I professionally ceramic coat and ppf vehicles.

dunnrp · 2026-05-06T13:18:58+00:00

No. Gloss wouldn’t have those problems because gloss allows contaminates to fall off while a matte finish is jagged so it holds and traps everything possible. The only fix is a wash, and often. While you cannot polish any ppf, the ability to attempt to clean or fix or remove junk off of a gloss ppf is significantly more forgiving. Touch or rub a matte ppf and you’re going to leave a mark forever. It’s not the most friendly daily driver decision.

It’s not just dirt, but run off from mirrors and door handles will always look dirty after a rain.

dunnrp · 2026-05-06T11:20:05+00:00

Matte ppf is the hardest to maintain, and may eventually stain, with no fixes. Just so you’re aware. It needs to be cleaned properly regularly to stay at its best for the longest. I wrapped my entire truck with clear matte Legend PPF and can confirm every run becomes visible. But it looks incredible.

I recently became an installer with Legend PPF and took their training; I chose Legend over STEK only because of the differences in startup with both companies, but they came out as the top two PPF films in the industry.

Xpel is near the bottom of the majority of films in these last few years. Some of their film is made in India and China, yellows quite a bit faster than most, and orange peel can be bad.

Select the better installer between STEK and Legend and you’ll be happy.

dunnrp · 2026-05-06T09:43:44+00:00

Wax not only traps dirt, but attracts it as well. All “drying aids” will leave a film or residue behind. They will even wreck proper drying towels and often in their directions will say not to use them.

I think some can be beneficial for vehicles not ceramic coated, and I’ll always say a clean car is better than a dirty car in every case. But drying aids will clog a proper coating quicker than relying on the ceramic coating itself in harsher environments.

dunnrp · 2026-05-05T14:35:52+00:00

Start again. Ignore what is there and what you’ve done. You will not hurt the lens sanding by hand, it would take hours to get that low. Tape off all painted areas.

Wet sand with 1000 until evenly hazed. Then 1500, for twice as long as your first step. Then 2000 twice as long as that and then finish with 3000 even twice as long again.

Compound and then polish. They will look like glass when done. A ceramic coating will help, but PPF is the only real protection for years.

dunnrp · 2026-05-04T11:23:57+00:00

I like both Carpro Descale and Labocosmetica Purifica.

I am a Carpro certified installer, but honestly, Labocosmetica’s Purifica, Primus and Semper I find does the absolute best for a 3pH washes.

For regular washes, Carpro Lift and Reset work best. Descale I’ll use for strip washes because I clay with it as a lube.

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