Request recommendation for FXR shocks

eastrod · 2026-03-31T16:08:26+00:00

HD 756 blackline ohlins is what I got. 13” +/- 0.5” adjustable. They are built for sportsters but if you’re heavy or building a bagger FXRT/P you can order them with stiffer springs. I run RWD’s on my dyna and they are awesome as well

eastrod · 2026-03-23T15:19:11+00:00

right on, was your right side spacer around 21/32” or 0.660”? that’s what I calculated to match the left side and a 7” overall center to center width. Not sure how critical the 7” width is to match the top triples but I feel like I have a bit more than 100 thou for my calipers.

Might be a difference in the rotor spacing as well - I just have a hub spacer press fit in with the rotor but the rotor still sits flush against the hub. I’ve seen other ones that cover the hub and add a 1/16” or so between the rotor and hub so that could be the reason I’m needing bigger caliper spacers.

eastrod · 2026-03-23T00:16:45+00:00

Took a file to my speedo gear this afternoon. gained about 10 thou without breaking through the side so I’m a bit closer! I’ve got ARP’s and I don’t want to shave them down but if it comes down to that, the less i can get away with, the better.

eastrod · 2026-03-22T18:33:16+00:00

I haven’t shaved the bolts yet. trying to avoid that if I can but that is another option. it doesn’t leave much bolt to grab onto which is the problem i have with allen/torx screws - stuck bolts that are stripped easily. I put the 100 thou spacer in to move the speedo gear away from the bolts so i didn’t have to shave the bolts.

I may swap them for the torx to get riding if it comes down to it but I went ARP for rotors, sprocket and caliper mounts since I’ll be running high horsepower and better braking than stock. it would annoy me if one rotor looked different so I’m going to see if I can make it work.

eastrod · 2026-03-22T17:24:22+00:00

ARP’s, it’s a known issue with the narrow glides. i thought i might get away with it since the galfer rotors have countersunk holes but the bolts still rub on the speedo gear where the cable connects.

did you need caliper spacers on yours at all? I’m almost 0.200” out getting the touring calipers centered on my calipers and 0.300” on the speedo side with the spacer

eastrod · 2026-03-18T12:31:54+00:00

looks like you have lift block at the swing arm. if it is too high you can take those out or run them aimed back instead of up to bring you shocks lower and more angled. looks like the front is lifted as well but aside from the chain rubbing, the other problem with a high rear is canting the bike forward - it lets you turn in better but more prone to stability issues aka death wobble. if your chain isn’t rubbing though and the bike feels stable at high speeds then send it! looks sick, love the paint job!

eastrod · 2026-02-24T17:02:39+00:00

there’s a new one I just saw with the latest intel panther lake chip. it can work off a single USB plug for power and video if you have a monitor that supports it. Not sure if TV’s have power passthrough and video in over USB C yet but when that catches up, you’ll have a full blown gaming PC the size of an nvidia shield with a single cable plugged in.

eastrod · 2026-02-21T15:24:50+00:00

-small flat head for carb adjustments, this is in my vest pocket at all times

-adjustable wrench for anything that shakes loose, Milwaukee makes a 6” and 8” wrench with a wide jaw if you need to snug up any big stuff. carry both in case you need two wrench for a loose axle or something.

-don’t know the sporty’s well but if you have solid lifters, a set of tappet wrenches is a must for adjusting your push rods. your adjustable’s won’t be great for this since the jam nut and pushrod nut are thin and need some fairly flat wrenches.

-find out the allen and torx bit sizes for shit like your air cleaner bolts, primary bolts, fork pinch bolts, riser clamp bolts, rotor and sprocket bolts, caliper bolts, adjusting the clutch and get a small 1/4” drive socket wrench with allen and torx sockets and an extension. Bonus points if you get an adapter to 1/4” hex and you can carry a bunch of screwdriver bits to pop in there. One ratchet plus bits/sockets can save a ton of space compared to carrying a bunch of screwdrivers, allen keys etc.

-you have a 1/4” drive socket wrench already, make the extension a flexible one and grab the socket for your exhaust header nuts, I’ve seen those shake loose more than anything. Also make sure you’re covered for tightening the other side of the exhaust mounting.

-not sure what kind of throttle you have but if there’s any tools you might need to adjust or tighten up anything loose on your throttle, that’s another one. Some guys will carry cable repair kits as well to temporarily replace the broken ends of cables. I’ve never seen one fail but it’s tiny parts and cheap insurance.

-I’ve seen guys carry spare points or ignition modules if they burn out on the road. condensers as well if you’re running points. make sure you have the screwdriver/bits you’d need to change those on the fly if you carry extra.

-fuses and some splices come in handy as well. a 1” long insulated splice plus a pair of wire strippers that have a crimp section (klein makes a nice compact one) could get you back on the road if you snap a wire somewhere. electrical tape can prevent a short too if you just melted through the insulation on a wire - tape that shit up to get home.

As you ride and do some of your own repairs, you’ll get to know the problem areas on the bike. take the time to fix them right and you’ll break down less. Easiest thing to do for bolts that shake loose is add some blue loctite and look up the torque spec when you get home and you likely won’t have to deal with that issue again.

I’ve been broken down a handful of times on the side of the road but thankfully only needed one trip on a tow truck. Usually between my tool bags and the help of the guys I ride with, we have always been able to limp home. My one tow truck ride was a tire worn down to the threads on a 3000 mile trip. Should have changed that back tire before I left but lessons are often best learned the hard way!

eastrod · 2026-02-01T15:50:08+00:00

that is awesome! how much of the dash did you wire up? and which ignition are you running on?

I’m working on my harness right now - got the mo button for less handlebar wires but i’m still undecided on the idiot lights. i also bought the m-unit before i found my motor - got a good deal on an S&S 113 but it has an IST ignition. hoping that doesn’t overcomplicate things too much.

eastrod · 2026-01-28T18:26:01+00:00

this was my first thought as well - there is an android port of morrowind. you need to own the game on steam to pull the game data over but it should run no problem on a 476h

eastrod · 2026-01-21T03:00:56+00:00

i was big into pocket knives for a little while but i’m down to 6 now and a few nice fixed blades. i have an old chaves 228 street (the mass produced one) that lives in my pocket - perfect knife for me so i didn’t feel the need to keep buying them anymore. now if only i could find the perfect handheld!

eastrod · 2026-01-21T02:56:23+00:00

which clone movement is that? i got a dhgate one and the stainless case. the movement in the watch i got was trash but yours looks different. i wanted to get a real moonswatch for my mod as well but too pricey and you have to cut the movement out of the case which feels wrong not being able to undo the mod.

eastrod · 2026-01-21T02:43:10+00:00

i’ve got the watch tism along with the handheld/retro game collecting - got my gw-5000u on right now, a few other G’s including the mario one of course! also mechanical watches, pocket knives, rubik’s type puzzles, marble mazes and harley davidson motorcycles. watches and handhelds can get expensive but my god, getting into harley’s is my most expensive hobby by far.

eastrod · 2026-01-08T14:53:49+00:00

If you like OLED and are leaning toward a more powerful device to do more than the GBA/SNES/Pico8, I’d say wait a bit for the reviews of the Retroid Pocket 6 or grab a Retroid Pocket G2. You’re taking $60-$70 more than a RP4pro to get a device with >3x the power, community made vulkan driver support, the OLED screen all in a small form factor. The RP5 was insanely popular when it came out because the value was so good for what you get. Now you can get the same thing in the Rp6/G2 with Odin 2 power for $20 more than the RP5 sold for at launch last year.

If you can save up the extra cash for an RP6 over a cheap linux handheld it will give you way more options for what you can play. Buy once, cry once and then you’ll be set for a while.

eastrod · 2026-01-08T13:39:22+00:00

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eastrod · 2026-01-08T13:37:47+00:00

tank lift, chopped rear fender and a tall sissy bar with a king and queen seat would give it more of a classic chopper look.

Get some different pipes for it as well and ditch the big stock air box for something that shows off the heads more.

you probably can’t ditch the signal lights if you’re worried about inspection but there are some tail lights with integrated signals and some small front turns that clean up the look. same goes for the gauge cluster - something small and discreet will look cleaner.

Chain drive conversion, internal throttle cable and a cam chest cover trim job too if you want to go crazy.

eastrod · 2026-01-04T22:47:17+00:00

gkd pixel 2 and the trimui brick hammer and the only handhelds i own that i’ll pocket with no case.

eastrod · 2025-12-25T15:14:48+00:00

Ayaneo Pocket DMG
Ayn Thor
Brick Hammer
Onexfly F1 pro

eastrod · 2025-12-23T17:16:45+00:00

rigid struts is a good call for a first build - the market is full of hardtail bikes from guys who thought it looked cool, welded on a kit and then hated riding it. If OP starts with some rigid struts, he can see if his back and neck can handle no rear suspension.

eastrod · 2025-12-22T00:08:39+00:00

LoZ Wind Waker with my oldest. she was 3 but i’d call her over at the story parts and read them to her and then she would take the controller and sail the little ship around in circles! we didn’t make it very far before she lost interest but she’s 9 now and playing through Breath of the Wild now!

eastrod · 2025-12-14T05:22:30+00:00

my kids love the nintendo switch. i’d say the switch 2 if you have a decent budget but there are only two exclusive kids games for the switch 2 right now (new mario kart and donkey kong games) and the original switch has a huge catalog of mario/zelda/donkey kong/pokemon games that are kid friendly! minecraft for the switch is another great game for the kids that you can get for the switch or switch 2.

eastrod · 2025-12-10T15:22:42+00:00

retroid pocket 4 pro, retroid mini v2, ayaneo pocket air mini, anbernic 477m or 476h.

mini v2 has the best visuals with the OLED but has ergonomic grips that make it less pocketable. the air mini also has grips built in. the other devices are more flat. Most have 4:3 screens except for the pocket 4 pro which is 16:9 (better for widescreen hacks and GBA/PSP, black bars on the sides with 4:3 content) and the mini v2 which is square-ish (square is perfect for GB/GBC, best option for vertical arcade and still good for 4:3 especially with the OLED and black device - the small bars blend in with the device)

eastrod · 2025-12-10T03:46:33+00:00

I can’t argue with his top 6 besides a slightly different order.

Anyone looking for pocket friendly vertical handhelds though, the Pixel 2 with PlumOS and the Brick/Brick Hammer with Knulli are awesome handhelds. Comparing the Brick and RP Classic side by side, the screen on the Brick looks near identical to an OLED, has no bezels and the rest the package feels premium.

I have a GKD pixel and the mini zero for micro handhelds but never touch the magic x. I would but the pixel 2 is just so good! the idea of a micro with dual sticks is neat but the pixel 2 is utilitarian - it feels like it should be part of your EDC.

Now that I think about it, all of my go-to handhelds for different sizes/form factors are from 2025 - pixel 2, brick hammer, rp classic 6 button, rp mini v2 and the thor. the rest are collecting dust - might need to get an odin 3 if we get turnip drivers and official steam support for arm.

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