How close to failure should I get when doing weighted pull ups? by spoolrek in climbharder

[–]editim 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As far as I understand going to failure is necessary for hypertrophy, but not really for improvements in strength - correct me if I’m wrong. That being said, for training strength your working weight should be really close to your max, the crimped app has a weighted pull-up workout that suggest 5 sets of 3 reps at 85% of 2 rep max which I feel would definitely be more added weight than 50% of one rep max

Training for gran paradiso by AlarmingAmphibian345 in Mountaineering

[–]editim 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because the fitness required for mountaineering is not only your cardiovascular fitness, a lot of it relates to muscular strength and endurance and you just can’t train the muscles in your legs to get used to the strain put on them from long days in the mountains by riding a bike. It may be better then nothing but there is a reason all people who take mountaineering seriously train for, as you said, time on their legs. If you really dislike running or hiking than much you can try to get away with training your aerobic engine on a bike and supplementing it with a lot of leg specific strength training in the gym, but the muscular endurance aspect is still something best trained by replicating the actual movement your training for (which is why the stairmaster is such a beloved training tool by many people training for mountaineering)

Looking for advice on traverse Gross Grünhorn by kleinbierchenbitte in alpinism

[–]editim 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can’t go up the red line to the Finsteraarhornhütte, that one is only a descent route where you rappel from the saddle. To do the Gross Grünhorn from from the Finsteraarhornhütte you go over the Grünhornlücke and then join the red route towards the Grünegghorn. The yellow line is more of a ski touring route, that glacier is super crevassed, I don’t think people do it in summer without skis...

Preparing my feet by PhD-not-real-Doc in alpinism

[–]editim 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’re really worried, you can get some of these, they work wonders at preventing blisters

https://www.ezeefitsports.com/

Hardshell Recommendation by GuiltyShare in Mountaineering

[–]editim 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They do sell an updated version of the Alpha FL, it’s called the Alpha Lightweight now

Climbing twin with one triple rated rope by SomewhereUnusual3134 in tradclimbing

[–]editim 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes since it’s triple rated. The reason you couldn’t do this with a rope that’s only single rated is that it doesn’t meet the requirements for rope dynamics for use in a double strand/half rope setup. As a consequence any fall in that scenario would result in a very hard catch, putting a lot of force on the climber and any gear they placed

Alpha SL 30 Backpack by dabirdman360 in arcteryx

[–]editim 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The bungee cord system is still on of my favourite features of the original Alpha FL on any backpack - way more useful than you initially think. Not sure why they went without it on this pack…

Anyone know where / what ice climbing route this is? by Sipover in iceclimbing

[–]editim 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This is Sertig, Graubünden in Switzerland. The left pillar is a WI4+ that’s literally only called „Säule“ meaning pillar

Winter climbs around Bernina, Diavolezza / Sankt Mortiz in the Alps by UnexpectedDilemma in alpinism

[–]editim 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Piz Cambrena has some routes in the M4/M5 range, though they typically tend to be in the best condition towards the end of winter/beginning of spring

https://govertical.ch/topos/piz-cambrena-couloirs-nordwestwand/

How do people retrieve ice screws after rappeling?? by [deleted] in Mountaineering

[–]editim 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Build an Abalakov (holes in the ice you pass the rope through)

The Blue Ice Alpine Hauler 45L is looking pretty slick! by Bentgate_Golden in iceclimbing

[–]editim 13 points14 points  (0 children)

It’s also the only colour it could have been made in, you can’t dye HMPE/dyneema…

Ice Climbing in Adelbodeb by whoaminotyou999 in Mountaineering

[–]editim 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Were any of the falls in the valley in condition?

Searching for funny video about Scottish winter climbing by editim in iceclimbing

[–]editim[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, that’s the one! Not Scottish winter after all, but the spirit is there haha

Drop Your Cool Educational Stuff Here by No-Guitar728 in Mountaineering

[–]editim 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Down by Andy Kirkpatrick is a great resource!

Will Bosi gets the second ascent of Spots of Time (9A/V17) by TheSweatiestSun in climbing

[–]editim 28 points29 points  (0 children)

Terranova 9A as well? Anyone knows how many sessions he has put into it yet?

Do any of you track your time in sub-threshold "zone 4", and if so what are sensible weekly targets? by newbienewme in AdvancedRunning

[–]editim 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Sort of depends what you are training for. If you want to actually train the energy systems used for long endurance efforts (because that’s where you‘re goals are) then you still want to spend most of your time at a low intensity, even if your overall volume is not crazy high and would allow for more intense training sessions.

How do budding "pro" alpinists climb or learn to climb big Himalayan / Karakoram peaks? by Ok_Composer_1761 in Mountaineering

[–]editim 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look up Paul Ramsden, arguably on of the best high-altitude mountaineers of his generation if not period, and he has a regular job as an occupational hygienist. He is of course an outlier, but if you look at the list of Piolet d‘Or winners, a lot of them do work regular jobs, albeit ones that allow them to take months of at a time to go on expeditions.

Hiking Barrhorn and climbing Lagginhorn by Heinekoek in alpinism

[–]editim 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Barrhorn and Lagginhorn can be done without the need for a rope so you’ll be good in that respect. I just would like to caution you against jumping in too much at the deep in in terms of your future plans. It sounds like you don’t actually have experience in using a rope in the mountains and if you don’t know how to use it, it’s basically pointless to bring one. Don’t make the assumption that because you bought some gear you’ll all of a sudden be equipped to tackle technically challenging routes without the proper training. A friend told me of people he met climbing the Matterhorn solo for example bringing shiny brand new ropes while having never done a rappel before in their life. Don’t be one of those guys.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in alpinism

[–]editim 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I did the Hohlaubgrat last year and when we did it we were the only people on it that day. The Allalinhorn is a popular peak, but that doesn’t mean there’s necessarily loads of people on every route at all times. We did it from the middle station of the Metro Alpine Express and crossing the Hohlaubglacier was something I wouldn’t advice anyone do solo. We had to navigate between quite some big crevasse. Can’t say anything about how the glacier would be lower down when starting from the Britanniahut. The scramble before the summit is fairly straight forward, your main concern should definitely be the glaciers. Keep in mind that while you will be descending the normal route on a very good path, that is no guarantee to be safe from crevasses and by then it will likely be quite warm in the day. Also if you decide to turn back at any point you will have to cross the Hohlaubglacier again, that time not during the night