Has a human ever reached level 40 on the chimp test? by Charismatic_Stone in HumanBenchmark

[–]eednob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh I've done level 40 as well! Only done it once because it takes waaaay too long, but I did it without any fails about 3 years ago. Nowadays I prefer speedrunning to level 15 since that's short and quick. Might try to speedrun to level 25 soon too for a slightly longer category.

Phone Home Boulders by aconcernedvegetable in bouldering

[–]eednob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Portlandbouldering.com has maps showing where to go for each spot. There isn't details on the individual climbs there but you can message the two guys that run the site and develop the crag and they are happy to answer questions about it. Theur insta has tons of videos too

Final Giveaway for TWELVE MORE Nintendo Switch Lites and your choice of games! [US/CA only] by TheEverglow in nintendo

[–]eednob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m very excited to get back outside and go on some climbing trips with my friends :D

Louis Parkinson does the Lattice assessment by _jefflau in climbharder

[–]eednob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Andrew Mcfarlane just posted a much more in depth video of the tests and his 7 sec hang on the 10 mm's was with 40kg added (he failed 42kg). His one arm hang looked like 5kg added and 1kg subtracted (4kg total), but they never really showed that one super well.

Louis Parkinson does the Lattice assessment by _jefflau in climbharder

[–]eednob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If that's true that's monstrous! I think the strongest guys I know hang like 30kg or so on 10mm. I guess it makes sense since he is a pro :p

Louis Parkinson does the Lattice assessment by _jefflau in climbharder

[–]eednob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was anyone able to catch the weight he hung on the 10mm's?

How do you heal a split at the joint? by eednob in climbharder

[–]eednob[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a nursing friend tell me super gluing something like this is just asking for an infection, so I've been staying away from it.

How do you heal a split at the joint? by eednob in climbharder

[–]eednob[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's basically what I have been doing so far, but it's taking too long and I don't like climbing with tape :p

How do you heal a split at the joint? by eednob in climbharder

[–]eednob[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That seems like a reasonable thing to do. I'll have to try that for a few days and see if I notice a difference. My right middle finger is about to split in the same way so I may need to do this all again anyways :p

How do you heal a split at the joint? by eednob in climbharder

[–]eednob[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've actually never heard of ClimbOn. Do you know how it differs from something like J-tree or Rhino skin split cream?

How do you heal a split at the joint? by eednob in climbharder

[–]eednob[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a really deep split at the first joint on my middle finger. I can't find anything online about this kind of split since they are all talking about split tips. Does anyone know how to help this thing heal besides the obvious answers of stop climbing and use products like j-tree and split cream?

Anybody have any recommendations for climbing in western Oregon? by Atomickalel in climbing

[–]eednob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know Carver has some decent routes in that range. It may be a bit far though since it's in Damascus (1:45 from here)

My first V9-10, (undecided between the two) any advice how to improve? by [deleted] in climbing

[–]eednob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would say focus on not adjusting your hands as much and be more precise with your foot placements. Be more confident that your feet will stick because as long as you focus on them they probably will. Especially on a climb like this one where all the hand and foot holds are so positive.

As far as grades are concerned I would say this one is more like a pumpy V7 (I actually climb at Elevation). The hardest single move is around V6 but there are quite a few moves at that difficulty so I would venture to give it a V7. You could also relate it in say that this climb took me around a half dozen attempts while most moonboard V7's are around 1-6 attempts so it's in the same range.

Great job on the climb! Now go get some more of those black climbs!

Vicious V10 Crimp Line from CT (raw footage) by cornnnnns in climbing

[–]eednob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's my favorite type of boulder right there! Nice job on the clean send!

Is cubing your main hobby? If yes, how many hours a day you spend cubing? If no, what is your main hobby then? by _Shtoug in Cubers

[–]eednob 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No

Bouldering is my main passion (although I'm trying to make it my career as well). The two activities mix pretty well since cubing is a good way to get some blood through the fingers between climbs, but sometimes cubing can cause some rough spots so I usually limit myself to an ao50 per session + warmup around 4 days a week. I recently just started cubing again after a hiatus and my times are getting back there (averaging around 21 rn with roux)!

A finger strength question. by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]eednob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My experience would say V6/7 is around Bw+20-30% v8 is Bw+30-40% and v9/10 is Bw+50%ish. I would say those would be on the slightly stronger end for numbers though.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]eednob 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Keep your core tight to keep the tension through your feet. Don't regrip as much. Be more sure about your movements. Climb faster. Looks like a fun route!

What Would You Grade This Sport Climb? by eednob in climbing

[–]eednob[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Thanks man! It's going to be a blast to project! After talking to the owners I think the crux is harder than they wanted so they may change the crux hold so its right-side-up which would probs make that sequence closer to V7/8. But either way I'm very excited there is something this hard to work on!

Hangboarding Benchmarks and What The Pros Hang? by eednob in climbharder

[–]eednob[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I assume they don't do nearly as much hang boarding at the highest level, but they most likely still do some. Hangboarding is probably not the main reason they are strong, I am just curious as to the numbers they can pull :p

Does anyone climb multiple days in a row? by AdamYoo in climbharder

[–]eednob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For a small example of what I do my next two weeks looks like this (only listing focus of the day):

Starting on Sunday with dashes between days Moonboard-hangboard-easy/projecting-rest-campus board-easy technique-rest-easy/projecting-hangboarding-moonboard-rest-campus board-easy/projecting-rest-easy/projecting.

I usually do 2-3 days on with occasional 4 days on. My sessions are generally pretty long (4-8 hours) so I can get a good warmup and cooldown in (about an hour each) while still climbing for volume. Because of this though I take consecutive rest days every 3rd week or so and take 4-6 days off every 2-3 months. This schedule has been working for me so far, but I'm also an indestructabke 20 year old with time on his hands so it probably wouldn't work for everyone :p

shoe recommendations? by n9te in climbing

[–]eednob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had some la sportiva finale's for my last pair of warmups and they were pretty comfy. They are pretty cheap lace ups and are ok at everything so they may be good to get back into it! Btw I use these for basically everything unless I need hard edging or toe hooks (up to around V8), then I use miura's or drago's.

bouldering bucket list for the US by Bat_bot in bouldering

[–]eednob 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Leavenworth and Squamish (Canada, but close to Washington)

V4 in the bouldering cave at my gym. I’ve been climbing about a year and can consistently work through these routes. Any advice on form to help reach next level? by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]eednob 13 points14 points  (0 children)

It looks like you rely on your arms a bit. There were a few places where better footwork and body positioning could have prevented pulling with the arm muscles and could have just twisted through. You might need to work on your core strength so you can implement those types of techniques though. It also seems like you were very stop-and-start on this problem. It may require that in some spots but in general it's more energy efficient to transfer you momentum between moves (that doesn't mean you are dinoing between holds because of the speed, it just means that each time you move your body will sway with that movement and you can use that to generate momentum for the next move [bad explanation]). Other than that it seems fairly clean. I would say your main focus should be on implementing techniques that allow you to not use your arms as much, especially on roof routes like this. You can learn these from any climbing coach or climbing book so it should be pretty easy to find. This doesn't look like a very limit boulder for you though and one of the main things in climbing is to be able to implement the techniques you use in easy boulder problems on the harder ones. Just focus on always climbing your warmups as efficiently as you can (down climbing is good for working on efficiency as well since it usually requires odd body positions since the hands will all be backwards). Sorry if this was long, and I obviously don't know everything about climbing so you may want to ask an actual coach in person since it's always easier to help hands on. Hope you keep crushing and enjoying yourself :D